FAQ
TL;DR: For tempered splashbacks, plan cutouts pre‑temper—13 A sockets are typical, and "It is not physically possible to make a hole after hardening." Order panels with factory holes or place outlets under cabinets. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18340934]
Why it matters: This helps DIYers and kitchen renovators avoid shattering glass, extra costs, and unsafe electrical changes.
Quick Facts
- Tempered glass cannot be cut, drilled, or laser/water‑jet processed after tempering; it will fail. [Elektroda, MARCIN.SLASK, post #18337263]
- Cutouts are completed before tempering; post‑temper milling makes the pane break into fragments. [Elektroda, anchilos, post #18337257]
- Reported shop fee: approx. £12 per hole for cutouts. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18337252]
- Scoring and snapping “safety” panes ends in instant breakup, even if the cutter makes a groove. [Elektroda, miroslaw wielki, #18340295]
- In UK kitchens on ring circuits, keep the ring continuity when moving or adding outlets. [Elektroda, saskia, post #18340025]
Can I cut a rectangular hole in 4 mm tempered glass splashback at home?
No. Tempered glass cannot be processed after hardening. Cutting, drilling, or grinding disturbs stress and causes failure. “Tempered glass can no longer be processed,” even by waterjet or laser. It may fall apart immediately or shortly afterward. Order factory cutouts before tempering. [Elektroda, MARCIN.SLASK, post #18337263]
How do manufacturers get socket cutouts in tempered splashbacks?
They machine all holes and notches before the glass goes into the tempering furnace. After tempering, any attempt to cut causes shattering. As one expert put it, it will “break into hexagons.” Specify all cutouts before the tempering stage. [Elektroda, anchilos, post #18337257]
Will waterjet or laser cutting work on tempered glass after tempering?
No. Those methods still disturb the tempered surface compression. The sheet fails during or after the cut. “Even water or laser cutting will affect the structure of the whole.” Order holes before tempering to keep the pane intact. [Elektroda, MARCIN.SLASK, post #18337263]
Can a small high‑RPM rotary tool or manual mill make the hole?
No. Local grinding collapses the stress balance in tempered glass. The pane fractures into small pieces. An expert warned it will “break into hexagons.” Replace the panel or order a new one with factory cutouts. [Elektroda, anchilos, post #18337257]
Is de‑tempering or annealing tempered glass viable to add a cutout?
Annealing (“forgiving”) is a theoretical path, but its value is doubtful for splashbacks. As one pro noted, “There is probably a possibility of forgiveness. But is it profitable?” Shop around and compare with a new pre‑cut panel. [Elektroda, anchilos, post #18337267]
I bought a standard‑size printed panel. Can the shop add socket holes later?
No. Stock printed panels are supplied without holes and at set prices. Suppliers provide holes only before tempering on made‑to‑order panels. Standard models typically cannot be modified at the same price. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18337297]
What are practical alternatives if I can’t cut holes in the glass?
Mount outlets on a vertical board strip and stop the glass short of that strip. Or place sockets in the wall and hide them with hinged board bands on push latches. These solutions keep the glass intact and the look clean. [Elektroda, saskia, post #18340025]
How should I plan socket layout to avoid cutting the splashback?
Use this simple plan:
- Choose under‑cabinet or vertical board‑mounted sockets to keep the glass uncut.
- If relocating, continue the ring circuit where used to keep double‑sided feed.
- Add push‑latch covers if you want sockets hidden.
These options preserve function and aesthetics. [Elektroda, saskia, post #18340025]
How much does a socket cutout cost when ordering glass?
A user reported a shop price of about £12 per hole. Ask for a written quote that includes all cutouts and the tempering step. This avoids surprises after printing and hardening. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18337252]
Why did my scored‑and‑snap attempt on safety glass explode?
Safety/tempered glass stores internal tension. Scoring does not relieve it. When you try to snap the pane, it disintegrates. One user scratched a line, tapped the score, and the processing ended in breakup. Tempered glass behaves this way by design. [Elektroda, miroslaw wielki, #18340295]
If I’m in the UK, do I need to keep the ring circuit when moving sockets?
Yes. Maintain ring continuity when altering outlets on British ring circuits. Kitchen loads are high, and a broken ring can overheat conductors. Continue the double‑sided feed when adding or changing sockets. [Elektroda, saskia, post #18340025]
Is ring‑circuit advice valid in Poland?
No. Polish installations differ from UK practice. A moderator warned not to transplant British ring guidance to Polish systems. Follow local standards to ensure safety and compliance. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18340278]
What happens if I try to grind a small notch on a tempered edge?
The tempered layer gets disturbed and can fail during work or later. As noted, it may “fall apart immediately or in a short time.” Avoid any post‑temper edge tweaks. Replace or reorder with proper notches. [Elektroda, MARCIN.SLASK, post #18337263]
My wall height is non‑standard (e.g., 470 mm); what’s a budget‑friendly approach?
Use a laminated board splashback if custom glass gets pricey. One renovator found 470 mm glass cost 30% more than 500 mm. They chose a board and moved sockets under cabinets to control cost and visibility. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18339983]
Will under‑cabinet surface‑mounted sockets stay discreet?
Yes. With higher plinths and shallow units, under‑cabinet sockets are largely hidden. Rotating sockets so cables exit toward the wall keeps leads neat down the backsplash. [Elektroda, bumble, post #18339983]
