High-Pitched Sound from Fuse Box when 3.5 kW Air Conditioner is On in a 12.5 kW Apartment

Hello.

As this is my first time here, I'd like to say hello, so hello.

I have a little problem:

Well, I bought an apartment, there are 3 phases in the apartment - connection power 12.5 kW.

I don't live there yet - I'm in the renovation phase.
Last week I had a 3.5 kW air conditioner installed, and this is where the problem arises. When I turn it on, a slight squeak comes out of the fuse box, a high-pitched sound. He's not very loud, but from what he knows, it shouldn't be. When turned off, there is blissful silence...

Does anyone of you have an idea how to solve this?

Regards and thanks for the information

Call an electrician, he'll sort it out.

Take a picture of the switchgear.
Maybe it's the contactor.

Unfortunately, but at the moment I'm already at home, I can't take a picture, but tomorrow, yes, can you use this electricity or rather wait for an electrician to check it???

Probably the squeak is caused by the operation of the inverter in the air conditioner.

sermarek wrote:

Probably the squeak is caused by the operation of the inverter in the air conditioner.

We are talking about the switchgear in the apartment.

From the question, it appears that yes. I have already encountered that due to poor filtering of the inverter supply, inverter operation can be heard in the switchgear. I suspect insufficient filtration on the inverter circuit supply - manufacturer's savings. If the author of the topic had listened to the air conditioner, he would probably have heard the same squeal. Perhaps it is being drowned out by the compressor operation.

In my opinion, it "squeaks" or rather "hiss" the circuit protection. And what, how to beg is to beg

opornik7 wrote:

In my opinion, it "squeaks" or rather "hiss" the circuit protection. And what, how to beg is to beg

If Chinese modules were used, it's very likely.
The question is whether "hissing", "squeaking", buzzing "always after switching on the switch, or only after switching on the switch and the air conditioning is working.

It's time for the author of the topic to check it out.

Łukasz-O wrote:

The question is whether "hissing", "squeaking", buzzing "always after switching on the switch, or only after switching on the switch and the air conditioning is working.

Luke, let's give him a few days until it gets warm. He will probably write that something stinks from the switchgear or that something has burnt.
Manik, take a photo and post it.

Łukasz-O wrote:

If Chinese modules were used, it's very likely.

For example, the LC equipment beeps when the induction hob is turned on.

I open the topic at the request of the author. Please correct the spelling of all your previous posts.

I finally managed to write something, I just didn't know that there were requirements such as correct spelling, but to the point, the fuses squealed so squeaked, in response to earlier questions, squeaking, or what my wife called "sizzling '' starts about 2 minutes after turning on the air conditioner.

And here is a photo of this invention, I circled the place from which this noise is probably coming from, the ear method :)

maniek998straz wrote:

And here is a photo of this invention, I circled the place from which this noise is probably coming from, the ear method

Didn't I say in post #8?

opornik7 wrote:

Didn't I say in post #8?

Well done you! :D

For 12.5kW of power allocation and a new apartment, the switchgear and installation are very good.

So what is it about??? :)

If this installation is bad, what can be done to prevent it from being? Replace all these things???

And can you use this current or wait until these gadgets are replaced??

The B16 circuit breaker with a load of 3.5kW works almost at the edge of endurance, writing in a colloquial language. You can try to replace it with another one, from a different company, e.g. EATON.

Switchgear made cheaply, with incorrect denomination of lighting protection. Scandalously small number of circuits for the current times. Such "expanded" installations were made in the early 90s.
Somehow I do not see a separate circuit for the air conditioner or it is common with something or the cost of something.
As far as I can see:
1. 400V plate,
2. Kitchen outlets?
3. Bathroom outlets?
4. Sockets rooms?
5. Lighting and bell?

Where are the circuits dedicated to loads above 2kW, such as a washing machine, dishwasher, oven (if separate) and air conditioner?
There is no main switch in the switchgear, and the four-pole RCD looks as if it is going somewhere. General disorder, lack of comb rails, phase on the blue wire from the bell. N-controlled bell.
No room for possible expansion.
Who did the "electricity" for you?

Łukasz-O wrote:

Who did the "electricity" for you?

I did, sir. Alone. Unless the developer.

The developer has just done such a marvel:(
So in order for it to have at least some arms and legs it's a decent electrician and to change pretty much everything????

And instead of these B16s can some more powerful ones be fitted???? The air conditioner is connected to the socket simply....

And what happens if I switch on, a 7.2 kW induction????? Will it work???? 3 phase of course.

maniek998straz wrote:

The developer did just that

This is how 90% of electrical installations in new apartments sold by developers look like nowadays.

Łukasz-O wrote:

no comb rails

Basically, I don't know what they would be useful for here

maniek998straz wrote:

And instead of these B16s can some stronger ones be put on??

Under no circumstances !!!

maniek998straz wrote:

Of course a 3 phase

Obviously 2-phase

So if I have an air conditioner on, and I turn on, for example, something else in the same circuit, let's say it comes out 5kW, 3.5kW from the air conditioner and plus something else there, what then? Will the overcurrent circuit breakers switch off? Even if I replace them with those made by Eaton, as my colleague wrote?


And do I replace everything in this box with this Eaton????

maniek998straz wrote:

So if I have the air-conditioning on, and I turn on e.g. something else on the same circuit, let's say it comes out 5kW, 3.5 from the air-conditioning unit and plus something else there, then what?

The overcurrent circuit breaker consists of an overcurrent and a short circuit component. The tripping time depends on the current.
B16 should switch off in 0.4 seconds at 3-5 times the rated current, i.e. 48A to 80A.
If you were to connect 5.5kW then the overload member would start to heat up and should switch off in 10 to 1000 seconds. At 5kW it would be about 100 to 5000 seconds.
Of course, as if the thermistor was warmed up, it would be shorter.
See the time-current characteristic curve.

PS.
At my place the Legrand buzzes when the oven or dryer is switched on

Or would it just be best to connect this air conditioner to the lighting circuit rather than the sockets? Then you'll be able to plug in all sorts of appliances like a hoover, TV, iron, without thinking about the fuse not being able to handle it, and the circuit with the lighting is all LEDs anyway, so there will be little load.

Such layman's thoughts

maniek998straz wrote:

And maybe it would just be best to wire this air conditioner to a lighting circuit rather than sockets??

maniek998straz wrote:

Developer did just such a marvel

Following this line of thinking, you'll blow the installation in your apartment.... probably 1.5mm² B16 protection and about 3.7kW on the circuit....

The only sensible solution is to run a separate circuit to the air conditioner, protected as recommended by the appliance manufacturer.

These are the parameters of this air conditioner:

Technical data
PRESTIGE product series
Model Number (Indoor/Outdoor) AR12HSSFAWKNEU/X
Capacity, cooling, nominal (kW) 3.5
Capacity, cooling, min-max (kW) 0.97~4.0
Capacity, heating, nominal (kW) 4.0
Capacity, heating, min-max (kW) 0.85~6.6
Dehumidification (l/h) 1.2
Fan capacity, maximum (m3/h) 720
Sound pressure level, indoor unit, high/low (dB) 39/16
Sound pressure level, outdoor unit, maximum (dB) 46
Power supply (V, Hz, phases) 220~240/50/1
Electrical power, cooling (W) 940
Electric power, heating (W) 1050
Current consumption, cooling (A) 4.4
Current consumption, heating (A) 4.9

Can a 3/3 wire and B20 protection be used when laying a new circuit???

maniek998straz wrote:

Can a 3/3 wire and B20 protection be used when laying a new circuit???

As it turned out, the device consumes 1kW and not 3.5kW as you declared earlier.

maniek998straz wrote:

Current consumption, heating (A) 4.9

This is the maximum power that the device consumes.

I'm not an expert, I just bought something like this

http://www.energiajutra.com.pl/pl/p/Science-a...ung-Prestige-AR12HSSFAWKNEUX-zestaw-split/653

I write 3.5kW, I thought, just like everyone said that 3.5kW is 3.5kW :/

maniek998straz wrote:

So if I have the air conditioning on, and I turn on, for example, something additional on the same circuit, let's say 5kW, 3.5 from the air conditioner and plus something else, then what? Will these corks shoot??? Even if I replace it with what a colleague wrote Eaton???

And what about this induction, will it work???

And should I replace everything from this box with this Eaton???

A separate circuit with separate protection should be connected to the air conditioner.
The protection of the lighting circuits must also be replaced (use B10).
It is worth bringing at least one additional circuit for the dishwasher to the kitchen.
I do not want to comment on the LVS modular equipment, because I have never dealt with it.
In your place, while you still have the opportunity, I would throw out the current switchgear and put in at least 2x18.
Then the main switch, voltage presence indicators will fit and there will be a lot of space for connecting new circuits from the air conditioning and dishwasher, and maybe also from the washing machine (if it will be in the kitchen) and the oven (if it is separate). think it over.

mawerix123 wrote:

Łukasz-O wrote:

no comb rails

I don't really know what they could be used for

In the case of this "extended box", it will reduce the assembly time from 30 to 10 minutes ;)

r-maniac wrote:

This is how 90% of electrical installations in new apartments sold by developers look like nowadays.

You're exaggerating the 90% a bit. Yes, some people fly at cost, but you can't generalize like that.
A reliable developer is recognized not only by the high standard of finish, such as marble and gres tiles on the staircases, but also by the switchgear in the apartment.
Show me the switchboards and I'll tell you how much a developer is worth. Whenever I am at a new facility, I always pay attention to the box in the apartment and immediately have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe developer. Unfortunately, people receiving apartments do not know what to look for. For them, visual effects are the most important, the whole general envelope, they can't see crap covered with plaster.
Here the developers did not save on circuits:



But there are also these:



P.S.
At the time of writing this message, I have not seen posts with the actual electric power drawn by the author's air conditioner.