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Does it make sense to have a three-phase installation in an apartment connected to one phase?

Trójfaza 19557 11
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  • #1 18735480
    Trójfaza
    Level 5  
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    I live in a prefabricated building. There are 5 adults living there. We are planning to renovate the electrical installation. The plan was to switch to a three-phase installation due to the multitude of electrical devices and the connection power of only 5 kW. The existing aluminum installation now requires agreement on who has the right to use what and when, so that it does not trip the fuse, which is very inconvenient. Unfortunately, the housing cooperative stated that it was not possible to install a three-phase system because the vertical line would not support it. Maybe they will modernize it someday, but we don't know when...

    In this situation, during renovation, can I install a three-phase installation inside the apartment for 3 x 6 = 18 kW (with the future in mind), which will now temporarily operate on one phase? In other words, I want to be able to do everything needed for three phases, and when the administration replaces the risers, I can only run the cable to the apartment from the meter and not change anything else in the apartment. Temporarily, however, it would have to operate in one phase. The question concerns everything: cables, electrical sockets, fuse board.
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    #2 18735493
    Hajna
    Level 24  
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    You can do anything in your apartment, of course you can prepare a 3F installation, but write to the power company in your area about the power allocation.
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    #3 18735503
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #4 18735512
    Trójfaza
    Level 5  
    Posts: 5
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    OK, so as I understand it, I can have a universal installation in my apartment that will work with both 1 and 3 phases, depending on what I connect to it.

    As for the power allocation, the cooperative told me that they could agree to increase the allocation to 8 kW on the existing cables, but they stipulated that "the plant will definitely not agree." I was told on the plant's hotline that if the cooperative agreed, they had nothing to say because it was not their responsibility. Who really makes decisions on these issues?
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    #5 18735628
    Ktoś_tam
    Level 40  
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    Trójfaza wrote:
    OK, so as I understand it, I can have a universal installation in my apartment that will work with both 1 and 3 phases, depending on what I connect to it.

    As for the power allocation, the cooperative told me that they could agree to increase the allocation to 8 KW on the existing cables, but they stipulated that "the plant will definitely not agree". I was told on the plant's hotline that if the cooperative agreed, they had nothing to say because it was not their responsibility. Who really makes decisions on these issues?

    You can, or more precisely, an electrician can perform the installation in apartment 1f prepared for apartment 3f. After changing the power supply, unfortunately, you will need to visit an electrician to connect the wires in your switchgear a little differently.
    If the cooperative agrees and ZE can increase the power on one phase, it is definitely a good solution.
    As for me, I would rather have 1F with a higher amperage connected to my apartment than 3F with lower amperage.
    When it comes to decision-making, both SM and ZE must agree.
    Just remember that a 5x2.5 cable at 3f is required to connect induction. At 1f it will be at least 3x4. If you decide to install 1f with higher power with the option to switch to 3f, you must use a 5x4 cable.
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    #6 18735724
    kj1
    Electrician specialist
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    Trójfaza wrote:
    OK, so as I understand it, I can have a universal installation in my apartment that will work with both 1 and 3 phases, depending on what I connect to it.

    In an apartment, the difference between a 1f and a 3f installation basically comes down to the fact that in a 3f installation there is one 3f circuit (for a possible electric stove) and the rest are 1f, but powered from different phases.
    And of course, you can commission this installation so that the 1f-3f switchover occurs automatically.
    In my opinion, however, this solution involves unnecessary costs.
    The solution proposed by @ktoś_tam is the most optimal.
    And I would suggest using a 5x4mm² cable to power the electric kitchen, and additionally make a separate circuit for the oven.
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    #7 18735740
    retrofood
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    Trójfaza wrote:

    In this situation, during renovation, can I install a three-phase installation inside the apartment for 3 x 6 = 18 KW (with the future in mind), which will now temporarily operate on one phase?

    Even you should!
    All the more so because a modern home (apartment, too) installation is (or should be) practically indistinguishable from the switchgear whether it is single-phase or three-phase. Only the connections in the switchboard determine this.
  • #8 18738363
    Trójfaza
    Level 5  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 5
    Thanks for your answers! I submitted an application to the cooperative to increase the power to 8 KW in one phase. If I receive consent, I will go to the operator. When submitting the application, they told me that if I insisted on three phases, they would agree if I ran the line from the main switchboard at my own expense, and that would be 5 ceilings and about 25 m of cable. I think I'll hold off...
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  • #9 19565285
    andrew.musiol
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    In connection with a similar topic, I have a theoretical question, namely whether it makes sense to install 3f in such a case? (Apart from the hob in the kitchen). What I'm aiming for is that I want to separate some rooms in the house as a separate apartment. If I assume correctly 25A for 2.5mm², the output for 3f is over 9kW. But now when I start dividing the phases into rooms, for example the kitchen separately, the boiler separately, the rest separately, the 9kW is not so obvious anymore. If I have a load of 16A on each of the divided parts of the apartments at one moment, then I have 48A on the N wire of the connection, right? Do I understand that correctly? So at least 4mm² or even better 6mm² on the connection from the main fuses to the planned new part of the apartment?
    Thanks in advance.
  • #10 19565334
    opornik7
    Electrician specialist
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    andrew.musiol wrote:
    I have a theoretical question

    Starting point for the discussion.
    andrew.musiol wrote:
    If I assume correctly 25A for 2.5mm², the output for 3f is over 9kW

    Clearer, please, my Lord ;) What is 25A, what is 2.5mm². What do you think these 9 kW are?
    I will leave the rest of your post without comment because it is simply fiction.
  • #11 19565418
    rstlen29

    Level 22  
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    andrew.musiol wrote:
    In connection with a similar topic, I have a theoretical question, namely whether it makes sense to install 3f in such a case? (Apart from the hob in the kitchen). What I'm aiming for is that I want to separate some rooms in the house as a separate apartment. If I assume correctly 25A for 2.5mm², the output for 3f is over 9kW. But now when I start dividing the phases into rooms, for example the kitchen separately, the boiler separately, the rest separately, the 9kW is not so obvious anymore. If I have a load of 16A on each of the divided parts of the apartments at one moment, then I have 48A on the N wire of the connection, right? Do I understand that correctly? So at least 4mm² or even better 6mm² on the connection from the main fuses to the planned new part of the apartment?
    Thanks in advance


    If I understood correctly, the load current under the cable cross-section for a power of 9000W÷230V = 39.13A and this is if there is no voltage drop, which is unlikely.
    A single-phase meter can be loaded with a maximum load (the information on the plate is, e.g., 5/40A for induction, 60A for electronics), so it will withstand the load. However, the WLZ in the staircase certainly does not have such a cross-section, unless in the ZK at the BMs. The administration or cooperative is responsible for the installations in the staircase and they give approval for the connection.

    To the author, these 8kW are probably with a load on three phases because the cooperative agreed to this power. There are places where the heating of an apartment in a block of flats is connected in a ZK cabinet on 4x10mm² BMs and goes to the 4th floor and is protected against the B40A meter. So the event is expensive.
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    R.S. Volt
    Złocieniecka, Drawsko Pomorskie, 78-500
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  • #12 19565655
    kj1
    Electrician specialist
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    andrew.musiol wrote:
    Does it make sense to install 3f in such a case?

    In what case?
    Please explain your problem precisely, my friend, because what you wrote is completely incomprehensible

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the feasibility of installing a three-phase electrical system in an apartment that currently operates on a single phase. The user seeks to upgrade their electrical installation due to the limitations of a 5 kW power allocation shared among five residents. Responses indicate that while a three-phase installation can be prepared within the apartment, it requires coordination with the energy supplier and the housing cooperative. The cooperative has expressed concerns about the vertical line's capacity to support a three-phase system. Suggestions include installing a universal system that can operate on both single and three phases, with the possibility of future upgrades once the risers are modernized. The importance of using appropriate cable sizes for different phases and ensuring safety compliance is emphasized. The user has applied for an increase in power allocation to 8 kW on a single phase and is considering the costs associated with running new lines.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Future‑proof your flat: run 5x4 mm² to the kitchen, and "you can commission this installation so that the 1f–3f switchover occurs automatically." Prepare 3‑phase‑ready circuits now, operate on 1‑phase until risers upgrade. [Elektroda, kj1, post #18735724]

Why it matters: This helps apartment renovators avoid overloads today and costly rework when 3‑phase becomes available.

Quick Facts

Can I wire my apartment for three‑phase now and run it on one phase?

Yes. Build a 3‑phase‑ready installation during renovation and operate it on one phase. Modern apartment boards look the same; only the internal connections differ. “Only the connections in the switchboard determine this.” When 3‑phase arrives, re‑terminate the board without rewiring rooms. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18735740]

Who approves an increase in connection power or a switch to 3‑phase?

Both the housing cooperative (SM) and the energy operator (ZE) must agree. Apply for allocation to your operator, and secure the cooperative’s consent for riser capacity. Their approvals need to align before the meter and supply change. [Elektroda, Ktoś_tam, post #18735628]

Is 1‑phase with higher amperage smarter than 3‑phase with lower amperage in a flat?

Often yes, if the riser limits you. Higher current on one phase reduces nuisance trips compared with a constrained 3‑phase allocation. As one expert put it, “I would rather have 1F with a higher amperage… than 3F with lower amperage.” [Elektroda, Ktoś_tam, post #18735628]

What cable sizes should I install for an induction hob and future 3‑phase?

Use 5x4 mm² to the cooker point for maximum flexibility. Minimums from the thread: 5x2.5 mm² for a 3‑phase hob, or at least 3x4 mm² if you’ll run it on single‑phase temporarily. This avoids re‑chasing walls later. [Elektroda, Ktoś_tam, post #18735628]

Can a cooker run on one or two phases until 3‑phase arrives?

Yes. Many cookers/hobs support 1‑, 2‑, or 3‑phase configurations. Have a licensed electrician connect, test, and document the setup. Keep the test report for safety and compliance. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18735503]

Do I need an electrician after the riser gets upgraded to 3‑phase?

Yes. The electrician will re‑terminate conductors in your switchboard for 3‑phase distribution. Internal room circuits can stay as built, so the visit is mainly to reconfigure and test. [Elektroda, Ktoś_tam, post #18735628]

Will my switchboard look different if I go 3‑phase later?

No. A modern apartment board can be built so it’s practically indistinguishable between 1‑phase and 3‑phase. The difference is in how breakers and RCDs are interconnected during final termination. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18735740]

How much can a single‑phase meter actually carry?

Typical ratings are 5/40 A for induction meters, or about 60 A for some electronic meters. That’s up to ~9.2–13.8 kVA at 230 V. Building risers (WLZ) may still limit you; the cooperative controls that infrastructure. [Elektroda, rstlen29, post #19565418]

If each subcircuit draws 16 A on different phases, does neutral see 48 A?

No. In a balanced 3‑phase system with linear loads, neutral currents largely cancel, so neutral current is near zero. Edge case: non‑linear loads can add triplen harmonics that increase neutral current beyond a phase current. Size the neutral appropriately. “Harmonic currents in neutral conductors”

Can I get 8 kW on one phase temporarily?

It depends on approvals and riser capacity. In the thread, the cooperative indicated up to 8 kW on existing cables, while the operator’s stance depended on the cooperative’s consent. Expect both parties to sign off. [Elektroda, Trójfaza, post #18735512]

Is automatic 1f–3f switchover worth it?

It’s possible to automate switchover, but one expert called it unnecessary cost for most flats. Quote: “you can commission this installation… [but] this solution involves unnecessary costs.” Manual re‑termination during the upgrade is usually enough. [Elektroda, kj1, post #18735724]

When does pulling a private 3‑phase line from the main board make sense?

Long runs across multiple floors get expensive. One renovator was offered 3‑phase if they funded ~25 m over five ceilings and chose to wait. If costs are high and timelines uncertain, prewire internally and defer the riser. [Elektroda, Trójfaza, post #18738363]

How do I prewire today so changing to 3‑phase later is easy?

  1. Run 5‑core cables (e.g., 5x4 mm²) to the cooker and from the meter point to your board.
  2. Separate loads on individual breakers and leave space for 3‑pole devices.
  3. Label circuits; after upgrade, have an electrician rebalance and re‑terminate. [Elektroda, Ktoś_tam, post #18735628]

Should the oven have its own circuit?

Yes. Run a dedicated circuit for the oven in addition to the hob feed. This improves selectivity and reduces nuisance tripping when multiple kitchen loads operate. [Elektroda, kj1, post #18735724]
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