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Electrical and internet installation: what cable conduits? 4-6 sockets per room

lriuqs 7611 15
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  • #1 19367512
    lriuqs
    Level 3  
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    Hi.
    I will slowly start working on the electrical installation. I decided to run the internet cables right away.
    Unfortunately, this will be a job in installments. Room by room. I have an agreement with an electrician friend that I will do the work and he will come and install the electric cables.
    Along with laying the electrical installation, I would like to lay some pipes or something so that I can easily run internet cables later. There will be a few of them because I want to make at least 4-6 nests per room.
    I need some advice on what to use to run these cables. Any illustrative link or names are welcome. It will be easier for me to find myself.
    Thank you in advance for your help.
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    #2 19367535
    IC_Current
    Network and Internet specialist
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    You buy a corrugated pipe (conduit) fi28 and lay one separate pipe from the wardrobe to each room. If the cables are to be pulled in after painting or plastering, you will need to make some pass-through boxes to facilitate pulling them in (approximately every 10 m). Pipes must be laid with a minimum number of bends and with the largest possible bending radii (i.e. in the corners the connections must be cut deep and from a distance). It is very important that the pipe is not routed "in the air" anywhere. Then, when you pull in the wires, it will shrink and tighten the wires like a choke (you won`t pull anything in).
    As for the number of Ethernet cables - I would give two for each room for PC and similar (+ one possibly for AP). Minimum 4 for the living room. Additionally, you need to run coaxial cables to the TV and SAT antennas. If you go with SCR, which is becoming a standard, there will be one cable for each room. If the installation is based on classic fullband converters, there must be two cables to the room where you want to have a decoder with a recorder.
    UTP cables also need to be distributed to the alarm, boiler room, door phone, etc.
    It is also a good idea to run empty pipes from the patch cabinet to the attic, basement, boiler room and other sensitive places. If technology moves forward in 20 years, you just pull the necessary cable (e.g. optical fiber into the connection).
    Coaxial cables of at least class A+, and UTP network cables of category 6 or 6A.
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    #3 19367539
    Anonymous
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  • #4 19367598
    lriuqs
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    IC_Current wrote:
    It is very important that the pipe is not routed "in the air" anywhere. Then, when you pull in the cables, it will shrink and tighten the cables like a choke

    Do you mean that the pipe will compress like a spring?

    IC_Current wrote:
    I would give two to each room for PC and similar

    And here I added 4-6 cables, as I wrote earlier. A bit future-oriented. I assumed that in the future I would connect a computer, TV, maybe a console, or a printer - these are already 4 sockets occupied. You never know what else will come up.

    IC_Current wrote:
    For this you need to run coaxial cables to the TV and SAT antennas. If you go with SCR, which is becoming a standard, there will be one cable for each room. If the installation is based on classic fullband converters, there must be two cables to the room where you want to have a decoder with a recorder.

    And I don`t get it, I`ll have to read it.

    _cheetah_ wrote:
    With remote control!

    How does this remote control work?

    _cheetah_ wrote:
    Normally, the conduit is plastered immediately with the cable inserted into it. I would advise you to do the same - unless the routes are planned, constructed, then the cables are connected, and finally the connection speed is checked by the electrician himself. And if it`s not OK, he`ll pay for the work to be done again.

    The electrician is to lay copper wires after familiarization. There are still aluminum ones on the floor where he will be doing this. He`s a specific, old-school guy, so I won`t even enter into a polemic about internet cables. Some time ago I ran cables upstairs, but upstairs. I hid it in the skirting boards. I already have some practice.

    I have already read something about problems with pulling cables in such corrugated pipes. Someone wrote something about smooth-wall pipes. Does something like that work?

    Is there any practice or standard regarding the height from the floor for placing such cables, or is it whatever you want?
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    #5 19367621
    IC_Current
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    lriuqs wrote:
    Do you mean that the pipe will compress like a spring?

    Once it tightens like a spring, reducing the cross-section of the pipe, it will then twist along its length into a spiral "like DNA"
    lriuqs wrote:
    I wrote 4-6 cables before

    You will even need more than 28 fi. Maybe even 32 fi or two 28 fi pipes (two pipes are easier to lay and you don`t have to dig the walls too deep).
    lriuqs wrote:
    How does this remote control work?

    The pilot is a steel wire inserted into the pipe. However, I recommend replacing such a remote control with a DY1.5 cable. The steel wire itself corrodes and tends to break off (if you don`t pull in the wires right after laying the pipes), and secondly, it cuts into the pipe when pulled in and you can`t pull the wires directly behind it. Sometimes even inserting a stay into the pipe behind such a steel wire is problematic.
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  • #6 19367671
    lriuqs
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    IC_Current wrote:
    The pilot is a steel wire inserted into the pipe. However, I recommend replacing such a remote control with a DY1.5 cable. The steel wire itself corrodes and tends to break off (if you don`t pull in the wires right after laying the pipes), and secondly, it cuts into the pipe when pulled in and you can`t pull the wires directly behind it. Sometimes even inserting a stay into the pipe behind such a steel wire is problematic.


    So, to insert the cable, you have to attach it to the remote control and pull it out of the pipe? There are no problems with putting the remote control back later?
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    #7 19367686
    IC_Current
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    lriuqs wrote:
    So, to insert the cable, you have to attach it to the remote control and pull it out of the pipe? There are no problems with putting the remote control back later?

    You pull the wires ALL IN TOGETHER. Previously, they were arranged nicely so that they did not cross each other but ran parallel to each other. You have to buy a few discs or measure the lengths and get addicted to it. One by one, you may not pull it in, and two... by pulling in a new cable when the others are already in the pipe, you may damage them irreversibly. When you pull in the cable, you rub it against those already pulled in and you will rub them on bends or other bulges. The problem is very important if you pull the cables in several times.
    If you want to still have the remote control for the future, all you need to do is connect the UTP and RG6 cables, attach a new DY to them and pull them together.
    And most importantly - whoever doesn`t lubricate doesn`t drive. Before pulling in the wires, they must be thoroughly lubricated with a preparation available at an electrical wholesaler. Then they will be easier to pull on and will not rub as much.
    To prevent the remote control from breaking (DY1.5 is a delicate cable), it is a good idea to first put a stay behind it, and then pull the actual cables after the stay.
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  • #8 19367774
    lriuqs
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    IC_Current wrote:
    You pull the wires ALL IN TOGETHER


    So this complicates the matter a bit due to the attic renovation being done in installments. I need to think better about this whole cable arrangement.
  • #9 19367846
    IC_Current
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    The idea is that you pull them all together into one tube. Of course, you can enter other pipes at different times. You can also pull in the section and roll it up somewhere behind the cabinet in the room before the renovation.
    Of course, you probably know this, but UTP cables cannot be connected or extended (there is no need to cut the antenna cables unnecessarily, as the connectors may corrode over time). The UTP cable must be in one piece from the patch cabinet to the socket.
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  • #10 19368092
    sosarek

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    lriuqs wrote:
    There will be a few of them because I want to make at least 4-6 nests per room.

    Why so many and why don`t you put two (one as a spare) and use switches?
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
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  • #11 19368270
    lriuqs
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    sosarek wrote:
    lriuqs wrote:
    There will be a few of them because I want to make at least 4-6 nests per room.

    Why so many and why don`t you put two (one as a spare) and use switches?


    For now, my plan is to install a rack cabinet in the staircase with a switch with X sockets in it (still to be determined). And from this closet run the cables throughout the floor to the sockets in the wall.

    Of course, I could run 2 cables from the bottom and do without the sockets on 2 small switches.

    Although my hamster is starting to spin around now and maybe you have another, simpler solution for it.

    What came to my mind now is 1 cable to the switch, and cables from the switch to the sockets. Only this switch should be hidden somehow.
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  • #12 19368279
    sosarek

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    How many devices should be wired in each room at the same time? Probably a computer, possibly a TV and a console, think carefully about the amount of cabling.
    Company Account:
    Z
    Pka, Poznań, 60-850
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  • #13 19368976
    Anonymous
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  • #14 19370271
    lriuqs
    Level 3  
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    I`m already lost in this thread. Dear moderator, please do not delete information that is important to me.

    _cheetah_ wrote:
    And on top of that, a switch powered by PoE

    I would run the cable to the attic from the first floor, from the switch that covers the sockets on this floor. The switch is not PoE. Rather, an additional switch powered by PoE will not work. Unless I`m wrong.
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    #15 19370290
    Anonymous
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    #16 19370297
    krzysiek_krm
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    lriuqs wrote:
    Rather, an additional switch powered by PoE will not work.

    There are "free-standing" PoE power supplies - like a box, on one side there is normal Ethernet and on the other side there is PoE.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the installation of electrical and internet cables in a home, focusing on the use of conduits for future-proofing. Users recommend using corrugated pipes (fi28 or fi32) for running multiple Ethernet cables (4-6 per room) and emphasize the importance of proper installation techniques to avoid complications when pulling cables later. Suggestions include using pass-through boxes, ensuring minimal bends in the conduits, and the necessity of lubricating cables for easier installation. The conversation also touches on the use of switches, the potential for Power over Ethernet (PoE) solutions, and the need for careful planning regarding the number of sockets and devices in each room.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Add corrugated conduits with pull boxes about every 10 m. “It is very important that the pipe is not routed ‘in the air’ anywhere.” Use separate fi28 runs per room, Cat6/6A, and Class A+ coax. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367535]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIY renovators and electricians plan room‑by‑room power and internet cabling that stays pullable, standards‑ready, and future‑proof.

Quick Facts

What size conduit should I run for 4–6 Ethernet sockets in one room?

Go larger: use fi32 or run two separate fi28 conduits to that room. Two smaller conduits are easier to lay and require shallower wall chases. This preserves pullability and space for gentle bends. Avoid overfilling a single small tube, which increases friction and risk of damage during pulls. Oversizing now reduces rework later. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367621]

How should I route conduits so I can pull cables later without damage?

Add pass‑through boxes approximately every 10 m. Keep bends to a minimum and use the largest possible bending radii. Avoid routing the pipe suspended or loose behind plaster. A suspended run can shrink and tighten around the cable like a choke, blocking pulls. Plan straight, supported routes from the cabinet to each room. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367535]

Is it okay to leave conduits empty and pull cables after plastering?

Yes, but prepare the route correctly, or you may never pull the cable. As one expert notes, “Normally, the conduit is plastered immediately with the cable inserted into it.” If you must pull later, ensure gentle bends, supports, and pass‑through boxes. Test routes before closing walls. Poorly prepared conduits can damage cables or block pulls entirely. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19367539]

How does a conduit “pilot” (remote control) work, and what should I use?

A pilot is a steel wire pre‑inserted in the conduit to pull in cables. Replace it with a DY1.5 cable instead. Steel pilots corrode, can break, and may cut into the conduit wall, complicating pulls. A DY lead is gentler and can serve as a permanent draw wire for future upgrades. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367621]

Can I pull one cable now and add more later?

Avoid that. “You pull the wires ALL IN TOGETHER.” Pulling new cables later rubs them against existing ones, risking irreversible damage at bends. Arrange all cables in parallel and lubricate before a single coordinated pull. If you want a future draw wire, attach a new DY to the bundle and leave it in place. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367686]

Quick how‑to: How do I pull multiple cables through a conduit?

  1. Pre‑stage all cables in parallel, tape smooth, and attach to a draw wire.
  2. Lubricate thoroughly with cable‑pulling lubricant from an electrical wholesaler.
  3. Pull steadily together; avoid stop‑start jerks, and protect bends with large radii. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367686]

Can I splice or extend UTP cables inside walls?

No. Run each UTP as one continuous piece from the patch cabinet to the wall socket. Do not brick joints or couplers into walls. Even coax connectors can corrode over time; avoid unnecessary cuts on RF runs. Continuous links preserve performance and simplify troubleshooting for the life of the installation. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367846]

How many Ethernet runs per room make sense, and what about using small switches?

A full star to many wall jacks can be overkill. Consider one or two runs per room, then add a small PoE‑powered switch where you truly need more ports. Mount it near the wall jack for local fan‑out. This reduces unused switch ports and unused in‑wall cabling while remaining scalable. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19368976]

How many coax cables do I need for TV/SAT per room?

For SCR (single‑cable) satellite, run one coax per room. For classic fullband LNBs, run two coaxes to the room with a decoder and recorder. Use at least Class A+ coax for shielding and reliability. Plan routes from the central cabinet along supported, gentle paths. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367535]

What happens if a conduit is routed “in the air” behind plaster?

It can tighten like a choke when you pull cables, reducing cross‑section and blocking the pull. Unsupported runs also add twist and stress on bends. The result is stalled pulls or damaged jackets. Always bed conduits firmly and keep routes supported with large bending radii. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367535]

My device only links at 100 Mb/s on a long route—what can fix it?

Insert a small switch between the wall jack and the device. Simplified LAN ports in some devices struggle across multi‑segment channels. The added switch often negotiates 1G and re‑drives the link. Keep patch cords short and verified. This is a pragmatic field fix for flaky gigabit negotiation. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19368976]

What bend radius should I respect for Cat6/6A to keep performance?

Handle high‑category twisted pairs gently. Typical minimum bend radius is about 30–40 mm. Avoid stretching, flattening, or sharp kinks. Plan wall corners and box entries with generous sweeps. “High category twisted pairs must be handled like eggs.” That care protects return loss and crosstalk margins. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19368976]

Should I choose smooth‑wall or corrugated conduit for data cabling?

Corrugated fi28 conduits are a standard pick and work well when routed correctly. Focus on route quality: minimal bends, large radii, supported runs, and pass‑through boxes about every 10 m. That preparation matters more than ribbed versus smooth walls for later pulls. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367535]

How can I power a room switch where no 230 V outlet exists?

Use Power over Ethernet. Feed a PoE‑capable switch in the room from a main PoE switch, or use a standalone PoE injector. PoE lets the remote switch run over the same Ethernet cable, reducing power outlets and cable clutter near the device location. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19370290]

Should I leave spare conduits to the attic or basement for future upgrades?

Yes. Run empty pipes from the patch cabinet to the attic, basement, boiler room, and other service areas. This allows easy pulls for future technologies, such as optical fiber, without opening walls. It is low‑cost insurance for long‑term upgrades. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367535]

I’m renovating in stages. Can I pre‑pull and coil extra cable near the cabinet?

Yes. You can pull a section now and coil the slack near the room or cabinet until you finish. Do not splice UTP to extend later. Plan staged pulls by room or conduit segment, keeping each run continuous from cabinet to jack. [Elektroda, IC_Current, post #19367846]
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