Installing 230V Induction Hob with 4kW Limit: Cable Size and Fuse Concerns

Hello forum members!
I am planning to install an induction hob in my apartment.

I will briefly describe my installation in the apartment. (Single-phase installation)
I have a separate 3x2.5mm² cable that I can connect to the induction hob, and there is also an ES B16. I have A20 pre-meter protection in the staircase, the connection power to the apartment is 4 kW.

To test the power consumption, I turned on: the TV, the washing machine, the microwave, the oven, the dishwasher, the lights in each room, and the computer.
With all these devices, the power consumption was ~3.7 kW. (i.e. I almost reached the limit of connection power from Tauron)

My question is:
- with such an installation, can I connect a 230 V induction hob without worrying that they will turn off the fuses in the corridor? (I definitely won’t use all 4 burners at once)
- is the 3x2.5mm² cable suitable for induction? (should it be thicker?)
- what is the risk of burning out the installation if I run a similar number of devices and induction?

1- no,
2- yes, but,
3- yes.
And now why - all you need is a computer power supply (charger) and everything will fail.

Forget about this solution. There will probably be visits to the staircase in a bathrobe to turn on the electricity, if it is possible to do it yourself.
While induction itself does not consume maximum power because no one turns on all the fields at full power, the consumption of devices turned on at the same time will trigger the main protection. If several people live in an apartment, power outages are almost certain.

@Ktoś_tam
@trojan 12

Would changing the connection power to 5 kW solve the problem?

GlobooX wrote:

- with such an installation, can I connect the induction hob to 230v without worrying that the fuses in the corridor will be turned off?

What is the induction power? (the fact that it is 230 V doesn`t mean much, because almost all induction hobs are 230 V).
The only sensible advice that can be given to you is to apply for a higher power allocation and modernize the electrical installation.

An additional 5A would certainly improve the situation. Some people have it and praise it. However, the best solution would be a 3F power supply. If it is technically possible, it is worth considering it.
With a 3ph power supply, WLZ definitely needs to be changed. In the case of a 1f power supply, it may also need to be changed if it is not adapted to 25A protection.

GlobooX wrote:

Is it possible to change the connection power to 5 kW?

With 20A protection you already have practically 5 kW

GlobooX wrote:

I definitely won`t use all 4 burners at once)

And how will you keep an eye on it?

kj1 wrote:

GlobooX wrote:

- with such an installation, can I connect a 230 V induction hob without worrying that they will turn off the fuses in the corridor?

What is the induction power? (the fact that it is 230 V doesn’t mean much, because almost all induction hobs are 230 V).
The only sensible advice that can be given to you is to apply for a higher power allocation and modernize the electrical installation.

To be honest, I haven’t chosen a specific model yet. I ran a 3x4mm² cable from the meter in the staircase to the apartment (it seems to me that this would not need to be modified)

I have B16 fuses at home (one of them will be used only for induction)

Added after 5 [minutes]:

kj1 wrote:

GlobooX wrote:

Is it possible to change the connection power to 5 kW?

With 20A protection you already have practically 5kW

GlobooX wrote:

I definitely won’t use all 4 burners at once)

And how will you keep an eye on it?

In the contract with Tauron, I have 4 kW in the connection power section.

And when it comes to not using all burners at once, I’ve never done it with gas, so I know I won’t use induction either.

All you need is a hob, 1 2300W burner + 2000W washing machine/oven.
Unless you keep an eye on: hob - oven - dishwasher - washing machine.
It can be organized - washing machine, dishwasher for the night - they have a delay in switching on,
oven and hob during the day.
Esa does not increase just like that.

trojan 12 wrote:

All you need is a hob, 1 2300W burner 2000W washing machine/oven.
Unless you keep an eye on: hob - oven - dishwasher - washing machine.
It can be organized - washing machine, dishwasher for the night - they have a delay in switching on,
oven and hob during the day.

You’re right, but look at my first post. There I described what devices I turned on and how much power I got.
I won’t run more devices at the same time.
What I have described would be an induction hob.
In such a case, will increasing the ESA in the corridor to 25A be enough?

GlobooX wrote:

- with such an installation, can I connect the induction hob to 230v without fear that it will cause traffic jams in the corridor?

GlobooX wrote:

On the contract with Tauron I have 4kW in the connection power section.

And when it comes to not using all burners at once, I`ve never done it with gas, so I know I won`t use induction either.

Remember that the full-size board you wrote about requires 2x16A or 1x32A protection. If you use only 2 fields, with 3 gusts, you will easily exceed 10A, it may even be closer to 15A. Then you have to watch out for electricity consumption. Why did you put the cable to the meter 3x? Why didn`t you think about 3f? There are definitely 3fs on the frame. If it is technically possible to use 3f, that would be the best.

Ktoś_tam wrote:

GlobooX wrote:

- with such an installation, can I connect the induction hob to 230v without worrying that the fuses in the corridor will be turned off?

GlobooX wrote:

In the contract with Tauron, I have 4 kW in the connection power section.

And when it comes to not using all burners at once, I’ve never done it with gas, so I know I won’t use induction either.

Remember that the full-size board you wrote about requires 2x16A or 1x32A protection. If you use only 2 fields, with 3 gusts, you will easily exceed 10A, it may even be closer to 15A. Then you have to watch out for electricity consumption. Why did you put the cable to the meter 3x? Why didn’t you think about 3f? There are definitely 3fs on the frame. If it is technically possible to use 3f, that would be the best.

Unfortunately, when renovating the apartment 4 years ago, I didn’t think to ask whether there was "power" in the tenement house. Modernization is not an option now.
What about induction hobs that have a function to reduce energy consumption? So typical 230 V boards. Then they will heat slower but will not consume as much power?

GlobooX wrote:

but look at my first post. There I described what devices I turned on

Did the washing machine have a heater on? Dishwasher too? The oven "ran" to the maximum (with the grill)
And the fridge?, especially when it takes off
Don`t have an electric kettle?
I`m just asking.

Fight for 32A pre-meter protection

kj1 wrote:

Fight for 32A pre-meter protection

On power 1f abstraction.

kj1 wrote:

Fight for 32A pre-meter protection

But will the short-circuit loop handle it?

opornik7 wrote:

On 1f power abstraction

I`ve seen this before. So it is possible.

GBW wrote:

But will the short-circuit loop handle it?

That`s why I wrote about modernization

trojan 12 wrote:

All you need is a hob, 1 2300W burner + 2000W washing machine/oven.

Nonsense - it`s only 4300W.
The fuse will trip at approximately 23A.
The author does not have to wash, wash and cook at full power at the same time.

And the conversion into 3 phases is a difficult matter.
It`s easy to write on paper - use 3f.

Author - apply to the power industry for an increase in power - 25A pre-meter fuse.
S-ka 25A will allow a current consumption of approximately 30A for a short time.

Quote:

And when it comes to not using all burners at once, I`ve never done it with gas, so I know I won`t use induction either.

You can use it - no worries.
The full strength of the dish would evaporate.
The induction hob is highly efficient.

There is no need to limit the power - the hob consumes as much as you set with the regulators.
Practice - exceptionally "9" is used.

CYRUS2 wrote:

trojan 12 wrote:

All you need is a hob, 1 2300W burner 2000W washing machine/oven.

Nonsense - it`s only 4300W.
The fuse will trip at approximately 23A.
The author does not have to wash, wash and cook at full power at the same time.

And the conversion into 3 phases is a difficult matter.
It`s easy to write on paper - use 3f.

Author - apply to the power industry for an increase in power - 25A pre-meter fuse.
S-ka 25A will allow a current consumption of approximately 30A for a short time.

Quote:

And when it comes to not using all burners at once, I`ve never done it with gas, so I know I won`t use induction either.

You can use it - no worries.
The full strength of the dish would evaporate.
The induction hob is highly efficient.

There is no need to limit the power - the hob consumes as much as you set with the regulators.
Practice - exceptionally "9" is used.

Thanks for the info!
Please tell me if I have a separate 3x2.5 square cable for induction connected (one ES 16A on this cable) is it completely enough? Won`t I lose the 16?

GlobooX wrote:

Thanks for the info!

The author of the thread finally got the answer he expected and why he created this thread.
Well, that was it!!

And what will happen in reality, the author will see for himself.


This "Land, you can easily fit" is still immortal.

kj1 wrote:

GlobooX wrote:

Thanks for the info!

The author of the thread finally got the answer he expected and why he created this thread.
Well, that was it!!

And what will happen in reality, the author will see for himself.


This "Land, you can easily fit" is still immortal.

Don’t worry, I take into account all your advice and I know that connecting induction is not 100% suitable for such an installation. I don’t know, that’s why I prefer to ask.
As you can see, in the previous post I asked further questions and did not just write "this is the information I wanted, topic closed"

Probably 3 phases are located in the staircase of the so-called WLZ, if you apply to Tauron for a possible increase in power, you will receive a letter from them detailing what you have to accomplish and what costs you will incur.

GlobooX wrote:

and I know that connecting induction is not 100% suitable for such an installation.

Well, you kind of know. But you ask the question:

GlobooX wrote:

- with such an installation, can I connect a 230 V induction hob without worrying that they will turn off the fuses in the corridor?

For me, you expect this one and only answer. All the others you say "yes, but maybe it`s possible."

The induction hob you purchase will have the specified power rating. It will be approximately 5-7 kW. And the installation must be prepared for such power. And this means a 4mm2 cable to the cooker (for a single-phase installation)

The B16 device will allow a continuous current flow of approximately 18A, which means a power of approximately 4kW. The cable will withstand this, but will be warm. This may cause problems with connections (the cable under the screw will "work" and may slip out over time). You need to make a solid connection.
Will induction be combined with an oven (stove) or separate?

kj1 wrote:

GlobooX wrote:

and I know that connecting induction is not 100% suitable for such an installation.

Well, you kind of know. But you ask the question:

GlobooX wrote:

- with such an installation, can I connect a 230 V induction hob without worrying that they will turn off the fuses in the corridor?

For me, you expect this one and only answer. All the others you say "yes, but maybe it’s possible."

The induction hob you purchase will have the specified power rating. It will be approximately 5-7 kW. And the installation must be prepared for such power. And this means a 4mm2 cable to the cooker (for a single-phase installation)

The B16 device will allow a continuous current flow of approximately 18A, which means a power of approximately 4kW. The cable will withstand this, but will be warm. This may cause problems with connections (the cable under the screw will "work" and may slip out over time). You need to make a solid connection.
Will induction be combined with an oven (stove) or separate?

You’re right... I’m expecting this one specific answer.
The induction would have a separate cable and the cooker would have a separate cable.
Both cables 3x2.5 square and both for 16A fuses.

kj1 wrote:

The B16 device will allow a continuous current flow of approximately 18A, which means a power of approximately 4kW. The cable will withstand this, but will be warm.

So what if the cable is warm - it won`t harm it.

kj1 wrote:

This may cause problems with connections (the cable under the screw will "work" and may slip out over time).

Eject ????
Don`t invent problems that won`t happen.

CYRUS2 wrote:

Don`t invent problems that won`t happen.

Has something changed, friend? For as long as I can remember, you have always recommended (also as Bronek) that the installation should not operate at its limits. And then suddenly such a change?

zbich70 wrote:

CYRUS2 wrote:

Don`t invent problems that won`t happen.

Has something changed, friend? For as long as I can remember, you have always recommended (also as Bronek) that the installation should not operate at its limits. And then suddenly such a change?

But that doesn`t mean there`s a threat.

kj1 wrote:

The B16 device will allow a continuous current flow of approximately 18A, which means a power of approximately 4kW. The cable will withstand it, but it will be warm.

The permissible current for 2.5 mm² is 19A. This is not an impassable parameter.

kj1 wrote:

This may cause connection problems (the cable under the screw will "work" and may slip out over time) .

These are pure fantasies.
If the screw is not tightened, 10A will cause a switchboard fire.

CYRUS2 wrote:

The permissible current for 2.5 mm² is 19A. This is not an impassable parameter.

What are you talking about, man? I clearly wrote that the cable will withstand such a current. But since you are so precise, maybe you can also write to what temperature this wire can heat up when such a current flows.

CYRUS2 wrote:

These are pure fantasies.
If the screw is not tightened, 10A will cause a switchboard fire.

You just have to make the connections very carefully. Or is this my fantasy? Maybe for you.

In my opinion, you gave the author a categorical answer, knowing practically nothing about the installation that the answer concerned.
Because you don`t know how the cable was laid, how the switchboard is made, etc.
You relied on limited information provided to you by a layman.
Because you don`t take responsibility for your "advice".

kj1 wrote:

Did the washing machine have a heater on? Dishwasher too? The oven "ran" to the maximum (with the grill)
And the fridge?, especially when it takes off
Don`t have an electric kettle?
Fight for 32A pre-meter protection

From my experience - I have had an apartment without gas for half a year - with normal use of the equipment, I was unable to trigger the 25A protection on the staircase.
Of course, it will work on purpose, but I really have to try and turn on everything, which creates an absurd situation when at the same moment: I`m vacuuming, the washing machine is heating water, the kettle is heating water, I`m heating something on two induction zones and the microwave is also on, which also heats something.

I think that the higher energy efficiency of equipment also has a significant impact, e.g.:
- I recently bought a "quiet" vacuum cleaner with a good engine and ~300W at the knob setting I most often use,
- a Samsung washing machine with bubbles, out of curiosity, connected via a meter/indicator (it`s hard to say what the error is, but a true-rms meter gives similar readings), even temporarily it doesn`t show more than 1kW.
Of course, some things cannot be skipped, e.g. a kettle must have ~2kW to heat the water quickly, and an oven similarly to heat up quickly.

rzymo wrote:

From my experience - I have had an apartment without gas for half a year - with normal use of the equipment, I was unable to trigger the 25A protection on the staircase

That`s right, the only problem is that the author has 20A protection, and in his case it`s a big difference. With 25A 1F protection, you can actually use the induction hob in the apartment without any major problems, and in the author`s case, if it is possible to increase the protection, it will be the cheapest possible solution for him, allowing him to connect and use the induction hob relatively freely.

kj1 wrote:

This may cause connection problems (the cable under the screw will "work" and may slip out over time) .

kj1 wrote:

You just have to make the connections very carefully. Or is this my fantasy? Maybe for you.

Do you understand the meaning of the phrase "will slide out?" ?
It means mechanical movement.
It will burn, but it won`t come out.