Simple Schematic for 100W 3A 36V LED Driver Powered by 220V AC 50Hz DIY Project

Hi looking for a simple driver circuit schematic and or power supply to drive a 100W 10x10 array led chip. The circuit needs to opeaate of 220V ac at 50Hz any ideas would be great, this for a little diy project.

You mention chip, what chip are you using.? Is 36VDC all you need with the chip?

Advise.

Does this project include selective powering of individual LEDs to show letters, numbers or symbols, or is it just a light source ?

It is rated at 36v 3A so I'm looking to build a driver circuit that will keep the current and voltage constant as the led chip heats up during operation, it seems to get quite hot. I'm not sure of thwarted exact chip specifics but know it's rated at 100w 36v 3A dc.

one single led chip rated at 100w the one you could typically use in a flood light, it's one unit surface mount array of 10×10

Who is the chip manufacturer and part number?

There are multiple modes of control but a part number is necessary to look up the appropriate information to make suggestions.

Just one thing extra question to be safe and certain, do you have the correct heatsink/fan assembly for this device ? (Otherwise it will very quickly burn out.)

Need the ic number and a schematic would be helpfull

Man : Zhejiang linova technology
part no: RG-DGL-100C-CW(WW)
No schematic as looking for one

Well how about a datasheet then or are you expecting everyone to do everything for you without any effort yourself Appolgies if you find this harsh but if I wanted to be someone backside washer Id have trained as a domestic nurse

By the way if you are stuck for toilet paper and do need some one to wipe your backside for you You can purchase a small toothbush so that you can get to those placec where the sun doesent shine anymore from many local chemists, food chains etc All of which will be able to assist you in that Department

Youll have to excuse my humour but they do ask for it So lazy, no effort at all and expect everything for nothing

I tell you what lets put this in reverse You sit where im sitting and ill fire the questions I wont bother to give you a schematic I wont bother to look anything up I wont bother to upload a datasheet In fact I wont bother do anything at all And whats more Ill expext you to pay for internet use You to spend hours and hours doing all the research and give the correct answers and in return ill come back with, "I want " , as well then we will see what you have to say how about that for you and whats more ill expect this all for nothing Then you can tell me how you are going to pay your bills whilst doing all of this for nothing and In the meantime we will just sit back whilst we instruct people to throw you out of your home as well That ok with you

I doubt so when ask for a datasheet or a schematic or some indication that youve made some effort

Then ill help other wise you know the answer you can mug other people off but me you dont

Don't mind Mark -- he seems to be chronicly cranky ;)

Just some points:

* Generally, LEDs need to be _current_ driven not _voltage_ driven. So a constant current [CC] is what you want (3 amps, if your spec is correct), unless...
* The array already contains some sort of current limiting, in which case a constant voltage [CV] would be the thing (but, if the 3amp, 34volt spec is correct, then it is probably current driven).
* A _switchmode_ driver would the most efficient so look for a switch mode source, either CC or CV as appropriate.
* With no datasheet -- and especially if there is no heatsink or if you aren't sure if the present heatsink is the proper heatsink (as pointed out by Frank, it _will_ need heatsink and likely a fan), then I would approach this with a bench supply that has an adjustable current limit. I would install a heatsink (if one is not present) then I would set the supply to some low current limit, say 100ma and set the voltage to around 35 volts, connect the array to the supply and slowly crank the current up while watching the LEDs and monitoring the temperature of the array with a non-contact temperature meter. Do this slowly because the temperature can ramp up pretty fast. If you get to a point where the temperature goes above, say, 100°C (120°C junction temp) before you reach full current then the heatsink is inadequate. In fact, I would want the LEDs to run even cooler than that (the cooler the better).

As for a circuit, Google around for switch mode CC or CV supplies (again, as appropriate).

Hi

Datasheet attached, Its not that I did not look for some ideas beforehand. I did not think that the typical tranfomer-rectifier-capacitor-voltage regulator approach for a supply was the best aproach here or rather overkill.

Your comments are valid I was looking for a quick fix, but noe hat I have some Ideas Ill go troll the net some more and se what I can find.

That's all well and good that you can get a 36V 3A power supply but you can not control the current. There are multiple ways to dim/modulate LED brightness, and the simple method is to control the current. This would work as a bulk 36V power supply but does not enable you to dim the LED array. You'll need a separate method to change the led current such as constant current or PWM.

I have designed a number of LED circuits so this I know.

Chronically cranky No I dont think Steve Half the reasons why companies fail in the uk and bring about massive unemployement is because Oh wonderfull one

They dont check a design
They import equipment or buy out a company without first getting the required information for back up support that means...


datasheets on semiconductors
schematic drawings
Availibility of parts
Is the factory still open
Fail to get signed agreements with suppliers

Consequently what then transpires is after purchasing some 1000 pieces plus The equipment starts to go wrong They dont have the information which they should have got in the first place

The dealers end up going bezerk
The consumer is left standing helpless
The company then loses gods knows how much money
People get laid off
The dealers have to shut shop
More redundancies occur resulting in high unemployment levels leaving everyone else with a bloody mess as usual

No work

No way of paying thier bills and they start to lose thier homes on top of this

So as for me in your oppinion being cranky

No I dont think so at all

Thats exactly what needs to be drummed into your heads becuase we are fed up with cleaning up messes just like this, all becuase some one who is in a responsible position cant be bothered to do his research properly before marketing a product

If you want to see this in black and white you just say the word and ill make this public knowledge and force these companies into closure up to you

Then just for you Steve Oh most magnifico


Then of course would you just believe this one too all of a sudden i'm not chonically cranky when dear old company bless thier little cottons socks, may they be in bussiness for ever, then decides, "Ooh I know lets call cranky mark in to get advice "

Then oooooh yes saab
Ooooh maan init bwuv


Lezz all be friends, big smileys and its can you help us bwuv no what I mean bwuv

Yes 1000 percentos hey! !! After stuffing up the entire Industry leaving god knows how many people without a pot to piss in

Very impressed Steve ever so proffesional
Is this normal?

All I can say is thank god they not working on cruise missiles

True, if modulating the brightness is the goal, then a fixed voltage power supply with current limiting isn't the answer. At least not the whole answer. It could be used to supply a PWM circuit. Thus it would take care of the drop from 220VAC.

I am into similar project of 100W 3A 36V LED Flood light using 220V ac. Still looking for a workable circuit

OK, having looked at the Datasheet (assuming the one you posted applies to your current project), what you need is a constant current power supply [CCPS]. The Maximum Continuous Forward Current is 3.2A (at Ambient Temperature 25℃), so the CCPS will need to supply up to 3.2A (though, 3A is probably the best nominal) at a voltage up to 36V (at least). For best efficiency it should be "switch mode".

The design of a 220V to 36V, 3A efficient switch mode constant current supply is not trivial and beyond my engineering chops. I don't, as a rule, work with such high voltages. I rely on off-the-shelf solutions for such things.

Now, regarding the issue of heat: Though this module is mounted on an aluminum metal-core printed circuit board, the datasheet recommends not powering this LED Array for more than 5 seconds "without appropriate heat dissipation equipment". So, if it isn't already mounted on a heat sink, if you plan to run it for periods longer than 5 seconds (at ambient temperature of 25℃), then you'll need to mount it on a heat sink (using some sort of heat sink compound or thermal paste) or other such heat dissipation strategy. If aluminum is used, then the datasheet suggests 0.008m²/W, so at 100W the surface area of the piece of aluminum needs to be at least 0.8m². Using a 0.89M x 0.89M sheet of aluminum as a heat sink for your light is probably impractical. And figuring out the surface area of a finned heat sink is difficult (and there are other complications such as the effect of orientation, conductivity of metal and paste, etc), so I suggest you experiment by trying a fairly large heat sink and monitor the temperature of the LED Array. The max operating temperature is 60℃, so I would do a series of incremental power-up/power-down sessions and measure the temperature after each session.

For instance, power it for 5 seconds (power-up, then after 5 seconds, power-down), then check the temperature - wait for a stable reading, then 6 seconds and check the temperature, then 7 seconds, etc, until the temperature reading is the same after each time increment (or the temperature reaches 60℃, in which case, stop and try a larger heat sink) Keep in mind that it takes time for heat to flow, so the temperature of the outside of the array will lag the junction temperature. And, the junction temperature will rise quickly and might, easily, overshoot a reading of the exterior temperature. This is the reason for the incremental powering (starting at 5 seconds, which is safe even with no heat sink (assuming the ambient temperature is 25℃ -- if more than 25℃, then lower than 60℃ -- I'm trying to cover all bases, but it's difficult without writing a book )).

Also, depending on your technique of measuring the temperature, there can be a lag between the actual temperature and the temperature reading. A non-contact thermal-pile temperature reader has, probably, the quickest response. A thermistor, slower response, etc. And, you want to be very careful to not exceed the maximum operating temperature, as you can easily damage the LED array.

Also, consider using a fan. A fan will allow you to use a smaller heat sink. You could also water cool it, but I suspect that would be overkill. As for a source of heat sinks, consider the CPU heat sink market.

And, I recommend running it at lower than 60℃. Heat ages LEDs, so the less heat the better (at least, for longevity). It becomes a trade-off between longevity and practicality in regards to the overall dimensions of the lamp.

I Googled "led lamp constant current driver 240VAC to 3A 100W" (select the "Shopping" tab) and got numerous hits for various rather inexpensive (less than $18US) supplies that should fit the bill -- mostly on eBay.