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Designing a 100ft 10AWG DC Tether for Drone Power Using 24V Batteries and Buck Boost

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Can I power a 6S drone over a 100 ft 10 AWG DC tether from 24 V batteries without an inverter, and what current and safety issues do I need to account for?

Yes, but not at 24–36 V on 10 AWG if the drone really needs that much power; the main design rule is to raise the tether voltage so the current drops, then step it back down at the drone [#21679573][#21679577] Rick suggested using the DC bus from an inverter stage or another much higher-voltage source, because feeding something like 160 V DC up the tether cuts the tether current dramatically and avoids rectifiers/capacitors on the drone, then using a 160 V to 24 V, 70 A DC/DC converter at the drone [#21679577] He also noted that trying to charge the onboard LiPos while flying is difficult because you must regulate charge voltage/current and switch cleanly between tether power and battery power [#21679579] If you insist on compensating cable loss from the bottom end, you need feedback for the voltage at the drone, and possibly temperature sensing because cable resistance changes with heating [#21679579] Safety is critical: use a connector that cannot be touched when the tether lands, and add a shutdown circuit that turns off the source when the drone stops drawing current or the cable is compromised [#21679573][#21679579]
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on designing a 100-foot tether using 10 AWG high strand count wire to supply DC power from a 24V truck battery (or two 12V batteries) to a large drone. The goal is to use a DC/DC buck-boost converter on the ground to increase the voltage to approximately 32-36 VDC to compensate for an estimated 9.9 V voltage drop along the tether, ensuring the drone receives 22-26 VDC (6S LiPo equivalent) without carrying an inverter or heavy power supply onboard. The tether should also provide sufficient power to keep onboard batteries fully charged during tethered flight, allowing the tether to be dropped for untethered operation with full battery capacity. Key challenges discussed include the high current (up to ~70 A) required, resulting in significant power loss and heat dissipation in the wire, and the heavy weight of the tether wire (7.8 lbs for 200 feet of 10 AWG). Safety concerns emphasize the need for quick power shutoff if the tether is compromised, use of fuses, breakers, or GFCI, and secure connectors to prevent accidental contact. Alternatives considered include using higher voltage DC to reduce current and wire gauge, or converting DC to AC with an inverter and transformer to step up voltage, then rectifying back to DC on the drone. However, the all-DC approach aims to avoid onboard rectifiers and reduce weight. Voltage drop calculations vary, with estimates of power dissipation in the wire ranging from 720 W to nearly 1.5 kW at 60-70 A current. The complexity of charging LiPo batteries via tether while simultaneously powering the drone is noted, requiring voltage regulation and charge state monitoring. Commercial tethered drone power systems exist but often include onboard converters and do not support dropping the tether mid-flight. The discussion also references online resources and DIY projects for tethered drone power. Additional input includes a related tether design using 230V AC over 16 AWG wire with SMPS conversion at the drone end for a smaller hexacopter frame. Overall, the project aims to balance tether weight, voltage drop, current capacity, safety, and operational flexibility for a large payload drone.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For long tethers, push higher DC (e.g., 160 V ≈ 11 A) then step down on the drone; “It is EXTREMELY important to be mindful of safety issues.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679577] Why it matters: This FAQ helps builders design safe, efficient drone tethers without frying electronics or overloading cables.

Quick-Facts

Quick Facts

Is a 100 ft, 10 AWG DC tether from 24 V batteries a viable option?

Yes, but efficiency and safety hinge on current. Pushing low voltage at 60–70 A wastes power as heat and increases risk. Using higher DC on the tether and stepping down on the drone reduces current and cable loss. Include fast shutdown if the drone stops drawing power. “Higher tether voltage lowers current” and improves practical wire size. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679575]

How should I think about the amps so I don’t fry gear?

Keep tether current low by raising tether voltage, then convert down onboard. For example, ~160 V on the tether means roughly 11 A for a ~1.7 kW load. Lower current eases connector, fuse, and thermal limits. Add a circuit to immediately cut power if load disappears to protect people and equipment. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679577]

What DC‑DC hardware tools can help me pick a converter?

Size a step‑down converter for continuous hover power with surge headroom. Use design tools like TI’s WEBENCH to explore topologies and magnetics. Validate efficiency and thermal margins, then derate for altitude and cooling. Add input filtering and soft‑start to prevent inrush trips. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679573]

Can I just over‑voltage at the ground to compensate for 100 ft drop?

You can, but regulate using remote sensing. A Kelvin connection lets the supply hold the drone voltage constant as current and cable temperature vary. Without sensing, voltage rises on throttle reductions and can stress avionics. Keep sense leads light and twisted with the main pair. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679579]

How bad is the heat in 10 AWG at hover current?

Example math in the thread shows ~36 V feed to get ~24 V at 60 A over 100 ft, burning about 720 W in the cable. That heat raises resistance, increasing drop further. Plan for thermal limits and avoid bundling the tether near delicate payloads. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679583]

What safety interlocks should a tethered system include?

Use a guarded, touch‑safe tether connector, upstream fusing, and a fast load‑loss shutdown. Add ground‑side E‑stop and a logic path that switches to battery before releasing the tether. “Make sure to add a circuit so that when the drone stops drawing current, the source shuts down.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679577]

Can the tether also charge onboard LiPos during flight?

It’s tricky because charge control fights propulsion load changes. You’d need higher tether voltage than pack open‑circuit and active regulation of charge current and temperature. Many builders keep packs at float or bypass charging and just power the bus, then switch cleanly to battery. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679579]

What is a Kelvin connection, in simple terms?

A Kelvin connection uses two thin sense wires tied to the load end of the main pair. The supply measures true load voltage at the drone and adjusts output to cancel cable drop. It improves regulation without heavier conductors. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679579]

Could an AC tether be simpler than all‑DC?

An AC path works but adds rectification and bulk capacitance onboard. Many inverters internally create ~160 V DC before generating AC. Tapping that DC and sending it up the tether can improve efficiency and reduce onboard parts versus AC‑then‑rectify. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679577]

How heavy is a 10 AWG silicone tether for this length?

One builder cited about 7.8 lb for 200 ft of high‑strand 10 AWG silicone wire. For a large platform with >25 lb payload capacity, that mass may be acceptable, but still affects climb and handling. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679581]

Will a 230 V AC → 12 V 60 A SMPS at the drone work on a 100 ft 16 AWG tether (S550 hexa)?

It can, but 12 V at 60 A demands thick conductors if you run low voltage. Reduce current by sending higher voltage and stepping down onboard, and implement fast shutdown and touch‑safe connectors. Watch weight; S550 margin is tight. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679575]

Can I drop the tether mid‑mission and keep flying on batteries?

Yes. Switch to battery first, confirm stable bus voltage, then release. Design the power path so the DC‑DC module isolates or disconnects before drop. This avoids brownouts and connector arcing on release. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679577]

What happens if my voltage‑drop calculator assumes one conductor?

You’ll overestimate or misread the drop. Use round‑trip length for DC tethers. One user corrected an earlier 200 ft assumption error and matched other calculators afterward. Always verify tool assumptions. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679585]

Any off‑the‑shelf references or kits to study before building?

Look at commercial tether systems like Blue Vigil and DIY write‑ups for architecture ideas. Compare where converters sit, release methods, and safety features to refine your design goals. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679580]

Quick 3‑step: how to set up a regulated, safe DC tether?

  1. Choose high tether DC (e.g., 75–160 V) to cut current; size connectors and fuses.
  2. Add onboard step‑down to 6S bus with remote sense and soft‑start.
  3. Implement load‑loss shutdown, E‑stop, and battery‑first switchover before release. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #21679577]
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