Connecting 6 Ohm STX Woofers and 8 Ohm TVM Tweeters to Diora WS442 Amp

well, there is such a problem
my amplifier is Diora WS442 (export version) 2x35W RMS at 8 ohms ... in the manual I write that I should connect speakers with an impedance of 8 ohms at a minimum ... and I want to make 2 loudspeakers on such speakers:
woofer http://www.stx.pl/index.php?vMenu=2&vMenuItem=0&vSubPage=354&vItemDB=itemdb 6 OHM MA TEN
Tweeter http://www.akkus.com.pl/index.php?grupa=gl_sz...ly&firma=tvm&model=ARV-104-04-8&lang=pl&dh=dt 8 OHM MA TEN
soon someone will design the woofer with a 3 kHz split


QUESTION:
Can I connect such speakers to my amplifier without fear that something will burn?

You can, but you must not overdo it with the volume. resistors to increase the impedance fall off.

why do they fall off?

and that I should not exaggerate with the volume ... let's assume that the knob from Volume turns 360 degrees ... how much can I emphasize and listen to the music?

Why are the resistors falling off? Look for! The topic was raised many times.
There is no specific answer as long as you have to turn the knob. Just don't make the sound audible - "wheezing". Always a little quieter. Not minimally, such a noticeable "little bit".

you can use a resistance cable from 126p it supplied the ignition coil 1 meter it was about 1.5 ohms resistance withstands 100 watts of power without any problems

I can't, the topic was discussed in your post. All of you say no problem. I have 25W 4ohm speakers and a 50W 6ohm tower and somehow I'm alive. When the loudspeakers reach their limits, you simply hear, if you don't hear it, then you are either deaf or you have good loudspeakers and they have not reached the limit yet. And turning the knob "to the max" is justified, only in the case of small children. For drunks, it will only help you with an additional potentiometer hidden so that it cannot be seen, set before the party :)


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greetings
Hephi

I think you can go ahead and connect, especially since if you add a low-pass filter in series with the woofer, its impedance will increase a bit

yesterday I tested the amplifier on 6 ohm loudspeakers ... they broke a bit next to it ... but these were loudspeakers from the mains ... so ... but after "slight tweaking the loudspeakers already roared to the maximum ... and when I emphasized the volume knob a little more there were already distortions and the speakers went crazy ... the loudspeakers have 6 ohms 80 W ... and the amplifier has a nice reserve of power ;)


another question ... actually a request ...
I need a crossover schematic (or 2 separate crossovers) for this setup
http://www.akkus.com.pl/index.php?grupa=gl_sz...ly&firma=tvm&model=ARV-104-04-8&lang=pl&dh=dt
http://www.stx.pl/index.php?vMenu=2&vMenuItem=0&vSubPage=354&vItemDB=itemdb

yes, split into 3.0kHz

Added after 14 [minutes]:

and maybe it's better to give it instead of ramtym arv?
http://www.stx.pl/index.php?vMenu=2&vMenuItem=2&vSubPage=326&vItemDB=itemdb
this one is 80W and the arv is 45W?

Added after 4 [hours] 57 [minutes]:

hey, help it ...
such a woofer
http://www.stx.pl/index.php?vMenu=2&vMenuItem=0&vSubPage=354&vItemDB=itemdb
and now which of these is better to give as a squeaker?
http://www.akkus.com.pl/index.php?grupa=gl_sz...ly&firma=tvm&model=ARV-104-04-8&lang=pl&dh=dt
if
http://www.stx.pl/index.php?vMenu=2&vMenuItem=2&vSubPage=326&vItemDB=itemdb

Barthez hands drop once again ... Amplifiers of this type have 0.3V input sensitivity, the computer's sound card can already have 1V ... Ohm maybe a little earlier ... But the current is only 1.3 times higher at 6 ohms in the ratio of 8 ohms, then there are slightly lower voltages at the ends so we have a bit warmer tips than at 8 ohms.

In simplification

0 bars 0V -> 0W output
1 dash 0.05V -> on the 3W output
2 dashes 0.15V -> 10W output
3 dashes 0.2V - on the 20W output
4 lines 0.3V - output power 30 W
5 0.4V lines - power exceeded, let's say 35W and distortion 10%
6 0.5V dashes and then nothing changes - just the distortion sound

10 dashes


Connect 6 ohms, do not get tired of some resistance cables. It is known that you have to forget about distortion, after that you will have to open the amplifier flap, so it won't hurt to replace the power amps.

Look better on the topic SELECTING THE SPEAKERS FOR THE AMPLIFIER - glued at the top.


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Crossovers:

You have the calculator here http://www.ajdesigner.com/crossover/crossoversecond.php it is important that you use it reasonably 2nd row. And you give impedances there, but you will have different problems like different speaker resistances, different efficiencies. Also, this calculator does not take into account the offset of the tweeter and woofer cuts. (need to manually enter 3000Hz once and 3300Hz once (let's say)
If you decide to use a single-resistor damper, its resistances must be added to the impedance of the tweeter ...

Besides, the power of the tweeter depends on the CUT. Arv sa usually low Cut because of that they have such low power. STX are cut higher and therefore have more power (power of course given before the filter) after the filter they have the power of single watts.

what does it mean:
Linkwitz-Riley.
Bessel.
Butterworth.
Chebychev.

from this site: http://www.ajdesigner.com/crossover/crossoversecond.php

?

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Termolo: useful info ... thnx

4 names the most popular cuts are Linkwitz-Rilley and Bessel for 2nd row. Do Linkwitz Rilley. I did Chebyshev once and it's not a great game :D

these are the nuances related to phase shifts, phase linearity ...

What do these signs mean? The answer is here: http://www.audiomania.info/articles.php?id=21
And the link to the crossover for STX 18-120 and ARVka I gave you in your other topic [link below] ...

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic451303.html

You know, if you continue to duplicate (or write more times) topics, you'll get something from the moderators ...

thanks to JS .. I didn't look at that topic anymore because nobody wrote on it anymore ... and I didn't know that you gave me a link there ...

listen ...
I made my own (slightly reworked) crossover diagram for this STX 120-18-6



good will be ... from my news it appears that the division here will be around 3.0 kHz

As for these amplifiers. power, etc., is on the so-called Audiophile speakers are usually written 10 ... 100W, 4 ... 8ohm. Plus the lofty statement that "an audiophile does not talk about parameters". And thanks to this, there is peace. And the selection of loudspeakers for the amplifier is carried out on the principle "it sounds good with it, and not with it".


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greetings
Hephi

Hefajstos wrote:

As for these amplifiers. power, etc., is on the so-called Audiophile speakers are usually written 10 ... 100W, 4 ... 8ohm. Plus the lofty statement that "an audiophile does not talk about parameters". And thanks to this, there is peace. And the selection of loudspeakers for the amplifier is carried out on the principle "it sounds good with it, and not with it".

hehe ... but I make my own loudspeakers, not ready with the inscription "10 ... 100W, 4 ... 8ohm"

In the topic http://www.audiomania.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=733 in the statement Sound Wave 'and you have a good crossover for this kit (you must be registered to view attachments). Why modify such a good project? You even have the column carrying characteristics. With this crossover, the loudspeaker seems to have an impedance of 8 ?, so the problem posed in the topic disappears.

Quote:

hehe ... but I make my own loudspeakers, not ready with the inscription "10 ... 100W, 4 ... 8ohm

But these producers put speakers with some impedance there. Often you write 4 ... 8ohm on 6ohm speakers (because they can go down to 4ohm anyway). Besides, there are sometimes so-called difficult loudspeakers that go down to 3ohm, and have a nominal 8 ... Anyway, when choosing a speaker, be guided first by whether it sounds good (and this is what these people recommend) and then by ohms and watts.


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greetings
Hephi

I can't log in there ... strange ... the activation code does not come to me by e-mail ... you can JS save the pictures of these diagrams (of course, sign which speaker and what division) and after packing you paste here ...

Please

Did you make a mistake in typing your e-mail? Wait a little, maybe he'll come.
I paste one crossover. She was also for STX GDWK 11-200, Tonsil GDWK 11-100.

ok ... thanks JS

now another question ...
for this STX 120-18-6 which tweeter should I choose?
http://www.akkus.com.pl/index.php?grupa=gl_sz...ly&firma=tvm&model=ARV-104-04-8&lang=pl&dh=dt

maybe this one?
but is 45W not enough ... in the summer I will make a little noise and I'm afraid it will burn it ... I have symptoms justified?

You will not burn, because this speaker is more effective than the bass one, so it will work with an attenuator. I would prefer the tonsil. Look for the Allegro. As much as a lot depends, the treble affects the perception of the entire frequency range. The ARV is sharp so the whole thing will be sharp. A good example are Yoshi's speakers on the ARN - they start with ARV and end up with Audaxes for PLN 100 each :D


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greetings
Hephi

Hello ... I'll just cut in for a moment and write the answer to one of the first questions in this topic ...
You can connect the 4 ohm impedance to the 8 ohm amplifier, but take into account the temperature rise of the power terminals of the power amplifier (higher currents). A colleague there said well that you should not overdo it then with the volume. The use of fixed resistors to obtain the appropriate impedance of the loudspeaker set is not in the game at all, but when it comes to the question of a colleague who started the topic, how much does he have to unscrew the volume knob if a full turn is 360 degrees ...
It is impossible to define this, my friend, for a simple reason ... Potenciometers used in audio equipment are different and depend on the concept of a given amplifier ... potentiometers marked with the symbol "A" eg 100k A has a linear characteristic ... What does it mean? This means that the resistance of this potentiometer grows proportionally to the turn of the knob, i.e. half (180 degrees), if the amplifier has 100Wat of total power, it should have half the power, i.e. 50W. It is a potentiometer where in the first phase of rotation the resistance grows evenly and in the next phase, after exceeding 180 degrees of rotation, it grows rapidly until the maximum range is reached ... The next group is "C", so-called exponential ... It is simply the inverse of the potentiometer with the characteristics. logarithmic or "B". So much for the topic of turning the volume knob to gain some power ... I would replace the crossovers and loudspeakers if you want to use the full power of the amplifier. If you want to listen quieter, leave the loudspeakers as they are, just remember about the higher losses and higher temperature in the final stage transistors ... However, it has some good sides, because now it's winter, so you can listen to music and warm up and if you get hungry, you can also use these heat sinks throw an egg and make a fried egg ... Regards

saratech wrote:

e.g. 100k A has a linear characteristic ... What does that mean? It means that the resistance of this potentiometer increases in proportion to the turn of the knob, i.e. half, (180 degrees), if the amplifier has 100W of total power, it should have half the power, i.e. 50W.

Mistake! It cannot be said that there is half the power in the middle of the knob. It depends on the input signal! As he said Irek2 : if the knob is in the middle and there is no signal on the input, how many watts do we have on the output ??

El_liero - this ARVka will be OK.

Besides, with half linear you have half the voltage gain, so 1/4 of the power gain. At half logarithmic you have an attenuation of around 22dB. So if the amplifier has 150W and sensitivity of 0.3V, then with a signal of 0.3V in the middle of the knob you have 1W. At 6V you get 4W.


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greetings
Hephi

Not a bug at all ... I don't know if you've ever noticed that the output signal level depends on the input signal ... You will not get full power tip if the input signal level is too low ... Besides, it was not the point ... Read carefully ... The idea was to illustrate in a simple way to my colleague that it is impossible to tell according to the volume knob setting what the output power is, although on some cabinets there are numbers that more or less illustrate the power at the output ... the scale is reliable only when certain conditions are met, under which the amplifier is supposed to operate by the constructor ... That's it. Regards

Quote:

Not a mistake at all ... I do not know if you have ever noticed that the output signal level depends on the input signal ... You will not get full control of the power amplifier if the input signal level is too low ... Besides, that wasn't the point ... Read carefully ...

I wrote it! Read carefully and understanding for yourself ;)

Let us agree on the point that nothing can be said about the output power versus the position of the knob.

Saratech
there will be no scrambled eggs ... because I will be mounting 2 or 1 fan on the heat sink with power terminals ...

you advise me to let ARV stay ... let it be so ...

I already have practically everything I need ...

One more question:

As everyone knows, there is 2x35W RMS power at 8 ohms
this
at 4 ohms it is equal to about 2x70W RMS
then I conclude that
at 6 ohms it will be about 2x52W RMS ...
Yes ?