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Best method for removing rosin residue from violin strings and instrument surfaces?

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 2631266
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #2 2631276
    waldec
    Level 19  
    Hello. Rosin can be removed, for example, with denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol or nitro. Best regards, Waldec
  • #3 2631825
    olaf x
    Level 34  
    there are also sprays, although the cheapest is denatured alcohol and it`s purple, it seems that the transparent one contains some nasty things...
  • #4 2631910
    SONIAK12
    Level 23  
    Hello
    I use white spirit - it washes off nicely and gives a nice matte finish to the surface of the tin - and it`s not too expensive.
    Regards, Soniak
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  • #5 2632044
    teridar
    Level 18  
    So far, the best solution is isopropanol. Preferably with a brush. Gasoline is also good, but sometimes you can also wash something down.
  • #6 2632628
    ogryz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Hello!
    I have a small, slightly filed screwdriver (flat-head) and first I use it to gently scrape off the rosin (only gently - so as not to scratch the solder mask), then I moisten the brush with isopropanol or denatured alcohol and wash the board. No trace remains.

    Regards.

    PS When using IPA spray, be careful not to pee on mechanical components (e.g. VCRs, tape recorders, etc.) as it may eat away the grease.
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  • #7 2633217
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #8 2633339
    dual
    Level 21  
    My friend Wawrzyniak, for some reason, is mixing shellac into the whole matter, which has nothing to do with rosin. It is a natural product from the tropical zone, while rosin is a product of distillation of pine resin. Shellac is not used as a flux for the simple reason that it hardens easily under the influence of temperature. In the past, for this reason, it was used in alcohol solutions to varnish precious wood. Rosin is readily soluble in turpentine and alcohols and is an excellent soldering flux. Due to the quick drying of the washed layer, alcohols are better, especially isopropanol. The easiest way is to use denatured alcohol, which is enough for most tasks.
  • #9 2633340
    thomas__1
    Level 23  
    Try spraying WD40, e.g. on the motherboard from a mobile phone....
  • #10 2636370
    gosp
    Printers specialist
    Hello.
    Personally, I sometimes clean it with isopropanol and denatured alcohol, but the PCC contact is unrivaled in this respect, convenient because it has a special brush. Once, when I ran out of it, I moved the entire head to a 60 contact container and it worked just fine.

    PS - Shellac refined gumilaca, resin secretion of Asian tropical insects from the order Hemiptera, widely used, especially ancient, for the production of gramophone records, in dyeing, electrical, printing and papermaking.
    Etym. - nm. Schellack `ditto`; hall. schel `(fish) scale`; nm. Lack `lak(ier)`.


    Regards.
  • #11 2636469
    KaW
    Level 34  
    Shellac is an electrical insulating solution - dipping in it - drying -
    b. good insulation...

    Whoever solders with rosin - does it very well - rosin in the sense of a solution in denatured alcohol. Soldering is easier, rosin eliminates surface tension
    molten tin and removes possible short circuits - tin pearls on pearls with a shine. For disposal after soldering, I use Chinese shaving brushes - but cut short, dipped in metal dust. It stinks and you can get drunk - but cleaning can be thorough. Removing melted rosin mechanically and gently.
  • #12 2642589
    leszek.b
    Level 29  
    A piece of wood! - the other end of the brush
  • #13 2659936
    KaW
    Level 34  
    oak toothpick - also used to open holes for inserting the chip...
  • #14 2660423
    edass
    Level 12  
    Hello!

    Reading this post, I learned how to remove rosin residues, but I have another question:
    Is it necessary to remove the rosin from the board after soldering, e.g. from a telephone???

    Greetings!
  • #15 2660775
    szczepan596
    Level 13  
    It depends! But I recommend paste for soldering because it has better properties than rosin and does not dry out, which allows it to be easily removed from the soldered surface, leaving an aesthetic appearance! Regards.
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  • #16 2660838
    shg
    Level 35  
    there is also a hardcore option. In principle, it is not suitable for removing traces of rosin from a tile covered with elements, but it allows you to quickly and effectively remove rosin, even severely burnt one, which is practically untouched by anything, even hot spirit + a brush, e.g. from freshly made tiles after tinning with using a soldering iron.
    And this drug is ethyl acetate.
    Found, for example, in "acetone-free" nail polish removers.
    It is not suitable for "installed" tiles, because in addition to rosin, it also dissolves quite a large amount of plastics from which element casings can be made.

    And apart from that, I use spirit and a brush every day, but first I use a screwdriver or something to scrape off whatever can be scratched off to save me the work of washing up (and the spirit ;]).
    Gasoline should also be good (though I haven`t tried it personally), and it doesn`t affect plastic.
  • #17 2661416
    ogryz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    :arrow: edass
    I don`t know what it`s like with phones, but for example, in TVs, you should remove rosin from the elements that heat up (this makes it easier to dissipate heat). Besides - aesthetic reasons.

    Regards.
  • #18 2662066
    marcin.koz2910
    Level 27  
    Hello

    You can dissolve the rosin with any alcohol (spirit, denatured alcohol, but blue alcohol). Do not try to experiment with WD-40 because it is a lubricant, not a solvent for rosin.
  • #19 2667252
    KaW
    Level 34  
    there are companies that wash their products - e.g. After soldering, the employee cleans and
    takes care of the appearance of the whole - so that it is not visible = whether... and how... or even that - that soldering was done. - then they cover the top of the board... and the bottom with quick-drying varnish... it dries and shines.

    The value of such protection is that if moisture can penetrate the outer layer of insulation at least in one place, it will overcome it.
    and the soup will be cooking...

    A simpler spirit solution (using denatured alcohol) - is a rosin solution - it is usually sufficient for protection against moisture -
    in addition - a layer on soldered joints - prevents damage to the tin-solder - white powder - disintegration of tin - frost - humidity -
    etc. atmospheric influences.

    I think that current electronic boards are washed in special water
    about spec. warehouse - to make production cheaper..
    I guess it`s just us who are passionate about rosin - I wonder what fluxes are used
    are different than rosin - used around the world.
    These include all forms of tallow - used in lead soldering... I`ve seen it and I know it works.

Topic summary

The discussion focuses on effective methods for removing rosin residues from electronic components. Various solvents are recommended, including denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and white spirit, with denatured alcohol being highlighted as the most economical and effective option. Users suggest using brushes for application and caution against using WD-40, which is a lubricant rather than a solvent. Mechanical methods, such as gently scraping with a screwdriver, are also mentioned to assist in the removal process. The importance of cleaning rosin from heat-sensitive components is emphasized for both aesthetic and functional reasons. Additionally, some users discuss alternatives like paste solder, which is easier to clean than traditional rosin-based solder.
Summary generated by the language model.
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