Effect of Alcohol on Electronic Components: Washing Plates, Capacitors, Transistors, Resistors

Hello, as in the subject, I wanted to ask if alcohol when washing the plates with it after soldering from the remains of rosin with soldered elements will not damage them?
I read that electronics are washed in this way, e.g. a mobile phone flooded with water, and even soaked in alcohol for a long time.
I mean capacitors transistors and resistors. Thanks for the help.
Sorry if I posted the topic in the wrong place.

Hello, according to my practice, nothing was damaged by spirit / denatured alcohol / greetings

Thanks artbi if anyone has any other comments please share them.

I prefer extractive gasoline.

Isopropanol will be best. It's cheap.

Not only does it not damage, but it absorbs all moisture and thus improves the insulation parameters of the surface of the tile and elements. Of course, it facilitates the removal of even stuck dirt. With so many advantages, one should even go on to describe the unparalleled taste... but the law can get in the way. The cell service buddy keeps saying that nothing can replace a great isopropanol bath

Where to get isopropanol?

I do not see on the website, but I saw them http://www.aphelektra.com/cgibin/shop?show=chem in nature 1 liter containers, so I guess they send.

Here they also have on the website: http://www.agchemia.pl/?kategoria=chemia

http://www.allegro.pl/search.php?string=izopropanol

Thanks for the help.

Just watch out for the coils, not the miniature ones in resistor housings or radial chokes with an air gap, only those in HF circuits. (usually shielded with a can).
Such coils are sometimes protected with varnish, which unfortunately dissolves in alcohol. With gasoline, I would also be careful with the coils, because sometimes these can also be protected with a drop of wax. Similarly, transformers (lacquer).
Of the alcohols, isopropanol (good, because pure alcohol) or spirit comes out relatively cheap, good for food (doesn't smell, doesn't leave muck, doesn't contain aggressive additives) and preferably from across the eastern border, because of the cost. You can also technical, ideally it would be contaminated with methanol, this is already cheaper than mineral water. Unfortunately, I do not know where it comes from, I have seen contaminated with ether and benzene, but both are not suitable. Methanol itself is of course also good and just as cheap.
I do not recommend more exotic alcohols (for example, isobutanol, which dissolves much more substances than ethanol or isopropanol)

shg wrote:
"Methanol itself is of course also good and just as cheap.
I do not recommend more exotic alcohols (for example, isobutanol, which already dissolves much more substances than ethanol or isopropanol) "

It is a fantasy of a colleague, because methanol as a POISON is unavailable in normal sale, and besides, it is not a better solvent than ethanol, not to mention isopropanol. As for isobutanol, it's also a dud, because its intense smell would be unacceptable. It seems to me that neither of the colleagues had anything to do with it. I can confirm the opinions of the previous speakers regarding the use of ethanol or isopropanol, but the cheapest will be to buy colorless denatured alcohol (available in household appliances stores), which is a mixture of alcohols with sufficient capacity to dissolve rosin, and at the same time does not threaten other elements of the system and easily evaporates from the washed surface.

dual wrote:

It is a fantasy of a colleague, because methanol as a POISON is unavailable in normal sale, and besides, it is not a better solvent than ethanol, not to mention isopropanol

I just said it was good, not better. It is dangerous and therefore its trade is restricted because it is difficult to distinguish from ethanol and can accidentally (or intentionally) be ingested. Stronger poisons are available in grocery stores and used in almost every household.

If you know what you're working with and use it consciously, I don't see any obstacles. However, I cannot imagine working with hazardous substances without familiarizing myself with the elementary safety rules and properties of these substances.

dual wrote:

As for isobutanol, it's also a dud

I'll highlight what my colleague apparently missed:

Quote:

More exotic spirits I do not recommend (e.g. isobutanol (...)

Isobutanol cleans rosin quite well, but is only suitable for "unfilled" boards, for example, it can remove prints from component housings. Unfortunately, the smell (I won't say stench, because there are worse things) actually leaves a lot to be desired, although isopropanol does not smell like a spring meadow either.

dual wrote:

It seems to me that neither of the colleagues had anything to do with it.

I had and I have.

Hello
Maybe another note.
If washing in ethanol, then rather in a large amount because, as my colleagues mentioned, the rest of the rosin is dissolved during washing.
With boards equipped with edge connectors, poor rinsing of the dissolved rosin can effectively eliminate or deteriorate the contact between the connectors of the board / card and the board.

The rosin itself is best removed mechanically first. By pressing, for example, with a needle or a thin screwdriver, we cause cracking and chipping of rosin droplets. Remaining remains will be much easier to remove with spirit. Spirit also effectively removes the remains of soldering paste that many electronic engineers use and later looks for the reasons for the failure of the system. Solder paste LEADS! Some people do not want to recognize this simple fact and spend many hours of deep thought and searching. Paste residues left behind cause the system to malfunction and then corrode everything around it.
The aforementioned colleague claims that the alcohol-based paste resembles quince in taste and color .