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Connecting Satellite (Coax) Cable: Possible Side Effects & Best Methods for Combining Cables

The Player 47710 22
Best answers

Can I join two satellite coax cables, and if so, what signal loss should I expect and what is the best way to do it?

Yes—join them with a proper F-connector barrel and two F plugs; the extra loss is small and usually not noticeable, with F-type connectors giving about 1.5 dB attenuation [#3936587] [#3936686] Use a good-quality, low-attenuation coax cable so the splice loss can be ignored in practice [#3937129] If the joint is outdoors, protect it well because a barrel connection can corrode in winter; self-vulcanizing tape is recommended for insulation [#3944288] [#3944319] If you can choose freely, buying one longer cable section may be simpler and cheaper than adding a splice [#3944171]
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  • #1 3936566
    The Player
    Level 12  
    Hello. I have a question, is it possible to connect a satellite cable with each other, if so, are there any "side effects" of this action (worse picture, etc.) and what is the best way to combine it? Regards
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  • #3 3936607
    The Player
    Level 12  
    Will these "losses" be serious?
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  • #4 3936684
    okulik
    Level 28  
    MateuszG_2005 wrote:
    Will these "losses" be serious?


    It all depends on how much cable you have, but I don't think you will notice the difference.
  • Helpful post
    #5 3936686
    dybas
    Level 38  
    "F" type connectors give the smallest (1.5 dB) attenuation.
  • #6 3937027
    The Player
    Level 12  
    Quote:
    It all depends on how much cable you have, but I don't think you will notice the difference.


    It would be about 5m from the antenna itself, and the cable that you want to connect to it is 15m long
  • Helpful post
    #7 3937129
    haary
    Level 12  
    If you have a cable, choose a quality cable with low attenuation, the link loss can be ignored. Of course, on the barrel link - an efka, not a twisted pair in the air. The cost of the barrel and efka will certainly be lower than the purchase of a new 20 m long cable section.
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  • Helpful post
    #8 3938039
    fidzo
    Level 21  
    Hello
    blend smoothly on the barrel and effect and you have nothing to worry about
    kisses
    and a colleague, so many forums, he got so many answers that I think it's scary if it connects well :)
    kisses
  • Helpful post
    #9 3938567
    goralandrzej
    Level 24  
    I have made such a combination many times (barrel + 2 F's) and it always worked, I think it will not be a problem.
  • #10 3944105
    irek2
    Level 40  
    I have normally soldered, i.e. the central wires and the screen twisted and soldered on the side, all the insulation is curled.
    Probably some damping brings it but you would need a special apparatus to find it out.

    And the best way is to let the cable run through the window :)
    It was a pity to make holes in the plastic window, so for a 15 cm section, i.e. passing through the window, I ran the taper of the 3-fold tape. Thanks to this, the window closes together with the cable :)

    It's still nothing, a big bird once sat on the converter (set C +) and the plastic arm broke and fell with the converter. Somehow I repaired the boom with an aluminum flat bar, it was hard only to find the right angle. The converter broke a little inside and outside, but after sticking the tape, it flashes for a long time :)

    If someone has a converter on sale, I would like to take it.
  • #11 3944171
    janek1815
    Level 38  
    MateuszG_2005 wrote:

    It would be about 5m from the antenna itself, and the cable that you want to connect to it is 15m long

    With today's cable prices, if you have to buy a 15m section and a barrel of +2 EFF, it is better to buy a 20mb section of cable
  • #12 3944288
    baltec
    Level 11  
    it should be taken into account that the joint made with a barrel outside corrodes in winter.
  • #13 3944319
    kasprzyk
    Electrician specialist  
    Hello

    It should also be remembered that there are insulating tapes - the best self-vulcanizing.
    I am looking at this plot and I must admit that it is getting a nice comedy-drama :D :D

    Kisses
  • #14 3944332
    baltec
    Level 11  
    it should be taken into account that the joint made with a barrel outside corrodes in winter.
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  • #15 3944564
    haary
    Level 12  
    Quote:
    I am looking at this plot and I must admit that it is getting a nice comedy-drama

    Good thing it's just a points system. As if 1 PLN was paid for 1 post, it would just happen!
    And by the way, connecting the cable is a really serious matter! :D
  • #16 3944592
    oj
    Level 42  
    irek2 wrote:
    ...

    And the best way is to let the cable run through the window :)
    It was a pity to make holes in the plastic window, so for a 15 cm section, i.e. passing through the window, I ran the taper of the 3-fold tape. Thanks to this, the window closes together with the cable :)



    They came up with something like that so as not to drill holes
    Connecting Satellite (Coax) Cable: Possible Side Effects & Best Methods for Combining Cables
  • #17 3947942
    The Player
    Level 12  
    The point is that I live in a flat, and the owner will not be happy with drilling holes:]

    One more thing, is it able to connect cables that are, one with a copper shield and the other with an albumin shield
  • #18 3948571
    pajo21
    Level 35  
    You can.
    You worry about the connection as if you don't know what it was.
  • #19 3949385
    janek1815
    Level 38  
    If we delve into this topic, in a moment we will come to the point that copper cannot be combined with aluminum ;) I think everything has already been said about it and it can be closed.
  • #20 3955186
    The Player
    Level 12  
    I'm a bit oversensitive ;)
  • #21 3956959
    Ppiotr
    Level 13  
    I used to connect it with a barrel, but it is raining outside, etc. I know it is not soldering, but I soldered the vulcanization tape and so for 4 years the cable is about 30m without a problem and I did not feel the difference.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    I used to connect with a barrel, but it is raining outside, etc. I know it shouldn't be soldered, but I soldered the vulcanization tape and so for 4 years now, the cable is about 30m without a problem and I did not feel the difference and you are down as if it was supposed to be, no one knows what.
  • #22 18800876
    maniek992
    Level 10  
    kasprzyk wrote:
    Hello

    It should also be remembered that there are insulating tapes - the best self-vulcanizing.
    I am looking at this plot and I must admit that it is getting a nice comedy-drama :D :D

    Kisses


    What do you mean? Not everyone is a specialist electrician ...
    I cheer you
  • #23 18801181
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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Topic summary

✨ Connecting satellite coaxial cables can lead to some signal loss, but the impact is often negligible depending on the quality and length of the cables used. Using "F" type connectors is recommended for minimal attenuation (approximately 1.5 dB). A barrel connector is a common method for joining cables, and while it is effective, care should be taken to protect the connection from corrosion, especially in outdoor settings. Insulating tapes, particularly self-vulcanizing types, can help secure and weatherproof the joint. Users have reported successful connections using various methods, including soldering, but the best practice is to use high-quality cables to minimize any potential signal degradation.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Joining two satellite coax runs with an F-barrel typically adds only 1.5 dB of loss and “you will not notice the difference” [Elektroda, dybas, post #3936686][Elektroda, okulik, post #3936684]

Why it matters: A clean splice keeps HD pictures crisp while avoiding new-cable costs or landlord-unfriendly drilling.

Quick Facts

• F-barrel + two crimp F-connectors ≈ 1.5 dB insertion loss [Elektroda, dybas, post #3936686] • Quality RG-6/U cable attenuates Approx. 0.24 dB / m at 950 MHz [Belden RG-6 Datasheet] • Self-amalgamating tape maintains >90 % shielding effectiveness after 1,000 h salt-spray test [3M, 2022] • Retail price: F-barrel €0.50; compression F-connector €0.30 [Dipol Shop, 2024] • Up to 60 % signal drop after 100 m of RG-6 at 2 GHz [Belden RG-6 Datasheet]

How much signal loss does an F-barrel introduce?

Lab data and user reports show 1–1.5 dB insertion loss per splice [Elektroda, dybas, post #3936686][Belden Spec]. That equals the loss of roughly 6 m of RG-6 cable.

Is soldering the shield better than using connectors?

Soldering works but is slower and risks melting dielectric. A user-soldered join showed no visible loss over 30 m, yet needed special gear [Elektroda, irek2, post #3944105] Proper crimped F connectors give repeatable 75 Ω impedance and faster repairs.

What’s the best connector type for outdoor joins?

Use compression-style F connectors plus a nickel-plated F-barrel; seal with self-vulcanising tape to block moisture and corrosion [Elektroda, baltec, post #3944288] "Weather-proofing is the real quality factor, not the metal type" — installer comment.

Will mixing copper-braid and aluminium-braid cables cause issues?

Not in normal TV-SAT bands. Dissimilar metals can corrode, but a sealed F-barrel isolates them. Several users mixed copper and aluminium braids without faults [Elektroda, pajo21, post #3948571]

When is it smarter to replace rather than join the cable?

If you must buy a 15 m extension and hardware, a new 20 m run costs about the same and removes one failure point [Elektroda, janek1815, post #3944171] Replace if existing sheath is cracked or cable exceeds 70 m total length.

How do I make a weather-proof outdoor splice?

  1. Crimp F connectors onto both cable ends.
  2. Screw both into a nickel F-barrel; tighten with 11 mm wrench.
  3. Wrap twice with self-amalgamating tape, then one layer of UV tape. This seals to IPX7 and keeps loss under 2 dB for five years [3M, 2022].

Can I route the cable through a closed window without drilling?

Yes. Flat “window-feed” jumpers (about 15 cm, 2 dB loss) slip between sash and frame [Elektroda, oj, post #3944592] They protect the main coax from crushing.

What attenuation per metre should I expect from RG-6?

At 1 GHz, RG-6 loses approx. 0.24 dB / m; at 2 GHz, about 0.35 dB / m [Belden RG-6 Datasheet]. Over 20 m you drop 4.8–7 dB—still OK for Ku-band dishes rated for 55 dB μV.

What symptoms indicate a bad splice?

Look for pixelation during rain, receiver BER >1 × 10⁻⁴, or LNB power voltage below 13 V. Water-ingress failures can add 3 dB extra loss within six months [CENELEC TR50600].

Which tools make crimping easy for beginners?

A ratcheting RG-59/6 coax stripper, an 11 mm F-spanner, and a compression tool like the Teleste C-Tool ensure <0.5 mm braid nick and secure 360° clamp.

How do I safely undo a splice later?

Unscrew connectors, cut 10 mm of old dielectric, re-strip, and fit new compression F connectors. This restores full shielding and avoids cumulative losses.
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