Gluing Cracked Laptop Cases: Best Adhesives & Techniques for Matrix Hinge Housing Repair

Hello.
I have a cracked housing near the matrix hinge. It doesn't bother me at the moment, but it still irritates me. What good glue could it be glued together? Droplet - I'm somehow allergic to it Maybe there is another technique that can be recommended? Demolition of the housing, putting something in and then gluing it? How do colleagues deal with such a problem?

Gluing alone will not do much. It will break again in a moment. Disassemble the casing and put a patch of similar plastic on the bottom so that the glue reacts with both surfaces. Some glue based on cyanopan.

With laptop cases and plastic, it happens differently, I recommend glue on Allegro or ebay "JB Weld" two components and it binds like hell and does not melt plastic elements. I have no conviction for droplets and this type of inventions. I use this glue and it is ok that the hinges are still used today.

2-component adhesives, which are mixed only before gluing, are second to none and are the best way to glue something permanently, some of what I know can harden and maintain the consistency of metal, so it will be difficult to break something like this again. The disadvantage is the price, but it is worth gluing important parts with them.

Colleagues - let me throw in my two cents - THERE ARE NO UNIVERSAL ADHESIVES (especially for plastics).
kesychel - before gluing, it is good to know what kind of material you are dealing with - there are those that will be very difficult to stick (thermoplastics - mainly polyethylene, polypropylene, etc.) - there are those that can be, although it is not easy (you need to "prepare" the surface properly before gluing).
And in places exposed to tensile / shear forces, you should not stick without a "pad" ...
I recommend reading this topic..
greetings to all.

The die casings break at the hinges for a reason, most often due to seized hinges. You must first remove them, adjust the holding force and you have to think about how to do it in this model.

Interesting page about plastics. I can't imagine burning a laptop casing to check the hardness of the plastic. And what do colleagues think about Poxipol or Distal?

If the case is made of hard PVC - I would use PVC glue ..
In the case of materials such as polypropylene - a colleague will probably not be able to stick together (it is rather welded).
As for "smoking ( ) of the casing - a very small piece (e.g. chip from internal bracing) is enough to get the required information (and of course a good nose and experience ..).
Perhaps it would be possible, for example, to heat up a dense metal mesh (as an additional reinforcement) and then make and paste the "overlay" from the inside.
Ps
Distal and Poxipol are epoxy resins - they could be suitable provided that they adhere to the material (but I would strengthen them with, for example, glass fiber or metal mesh).
Ps2
In the past, I used to "weld" polypropylene using a soldering iron with a shaped tip - then the question of "processing" the weld remains.

Hello. I have been using Bondini for years. It is a bit thickened and it dries longer than a droplet. I do not know better at this price. Regards.

Witek - you can actually try it (although it is also a type of cyanoacrylate glue) - but, as you wrote, it is in the form of a gel (there are different varieties)

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I would also like to add that Bondinim gel can "fill" the cavities ...

I know it's off topic. My shoes were glued with this glue . A friend just had leftovers. He held really great. And it was sooooo expensive. How much is it now?

Once in Travelmate my flap broke, I melted the staples (alternately from the top and bottom), on the other side I bent them, and finally poured transparent Poxipol. I applied it several layers, and painted the penultimate layer black. The gluing point was masked with tape, so finally a strip of poxipol with even edges remained on the flap - it did not look too bad.

tzok - you did as I wrote - only; instead of fusing the mesh - staples and an adhesive overlay - the ground to be effective.
kesychel - something around PLN 15-20 (as I remember correctly) - only there is a problem with finding in the gel ...

Today I bought a Technicqll adhesive for Hard Plastics "Aggressive" - it partially dissolves (melts) the glued surfaces

It cost me in the Ciastorama about PLN 4 with pennies, the guy recommended it to me, he said that this glue can melt the joined parts in the joint in the joint, where they will also be joined with the original material.

The glue is suitable for modern plastics such as all kinds of plastics, abs, acrylic glass, persplex, tr-y, eva-y, etc.

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It is required to press the glued parts firmly and then to clean them.

Today I will try it, because I have a cracked hinge, it is already "rump one", adjusted and greased - I bought a laptop occasionally used in a neglected condition, now I pamper it:].

After connecting the elements, I will think about some additional protection from the inside of the housing. I was thinking of profiling some metal plates (plates), matting the surfaces of the connected plastic elements and plates and making a small reinforcement in the damaged area.

We'll see what comes out of it :)

Here was a similar topic with the discussed aggressive glue suitable for gluing ABS>

www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic862954.html

Hello. As I like to have 100% functional equipment, I have a question: Did lubricating the hinges cause a weaker grip on the matrix flap? Regards.

Hi, I am answering (smearing completely dry hinges will loosen the resistance to some extent, because that's why the parts will have less friction against each other). they can "squeal" violins, proverbial, like the old hinges on the door when it is dry there.

Secondly, it will make the work more enjoyable - everything will run pleasantly and smoothly without jams.

Unscrew and lubricate it well, and if there is a screw for adjusting the pressure, adjust the pressure with it, and even though you lubricate it, there will be adequate resistance for the damper.

Note that it is not too big (as in the case when the hinges can be dirty without grease, "stuck") old laptops often have cracked hinges.

In my experience, the plastic near the hinges breaks for three reasons:
-dry hinges
-tightened screws at the hinges
- defective construction
The first two reasons "maliciously" become apparent only after the casing is broken, the third one can be bypassed by buying equipment without this defect, which is difficult to sense with the new models.
My method for this fault is getting the hinges tidy and good cyanoacrylate glue (Loctite for example).