Choosing the Best High-Temperature Glue for Washing Machine Drum Casing Repair

Hello.
As in the title, he asks for advice on choosing the best glue to glue the washing machine drum.
Well, I decided to change the bearings in my washing machine, of course the drum was glued.
I got to work, I drilled holes every 8 cm, then I dismantled the drum.
The replacement of the bearings went smoothly, but there are my concerns about the choice of glue to glue it together.
I read on the forum that Mamut or high-temperature silicone is good, but do these adhesives not harden after washing at high temperatures?
Please advice thanks a lot in advance.

You can use silicone, or you can do better at high temperature. Was the drum glued?

Stanislaw elektryk12 wrote:

but don't these adhesives cure after washing at high temperatures?

Since such a high-temperature one can withstand + 265 ° C, then these 80 will probably not hurt him

Stanislaw elektryk12 wrote:

I read on the forum that Mamut or high-temperature silicone is good, but do these adhesives not harden after washing at high temperatures?

The mammoth is not suitable, I glued the drum after replacing the bearings and after about 20 washes it fell apart.

Talk to your local plasticsman. He should weld it for you and it will be permanent.

I think that two-component polyurethane adhesive will be suitable for this purpose:
link

Ask the guys from Atashka, they will surely advise the best glue for this purpose.

@gregor7891 Was the tank screwed on?

After many different experiments and applied liniments, the only right technique is the so-called "welding" of plastic.

You need to look at the tank carefully, maybe there is a symbol of this material. Even if there is a symbol, I still do adhesion tests because now they make different copolymers and everyone is a little different.
A drop of glue on the surface and attaches a polyester tape.
After curing, I try to tear off the tape and I can see if it sticks or just sticks. Scholars call this the peel test.
Only I have several types of glue in larger packages and I don't have to buy it.
Not all plastics can be welded. Also, a test weld should be done if possible.
Regards.

Everything in the tank is not welded together, e.g. a cup with a drain pump. The basis is to fit the halves well, screw them together and seal them with Fixall Sudala or Bostik glue. Mammoth, while it is strong, is too hard after drying. A good option is the Boll car window adhesive with an activator.

The solution is #8.
However, if someone wants to use glue, silicone or a baby from the nose, it is important that, for example, a fine mesh is immersed in the glue polystyrene polyester.
That is, the equivalent of reinforcement in reinforced concrete.

misiek1111 wrote:

fine polystyrene mesh.

First time I hear it, maybe it was polyester?

After all, silicone serves primarily as a sealant, the screws are responsible for keeping the halves together. Just like in twisted tanks. Nothing sticks there and stays on. People, think what you write.

Significant forces are exerted on the screws, especially during spinning. Plus, it's a metal-plastic combination.
It's better to do it with a reserve and additionally glue the edge from the outside, than to make corrections later.

I made Bosch bolted and Electrolux glued. I used glass glue, both work for two years. Screws can be given densely 3.5 × 20, first a 2mm drill, then a screw. And that I screwed 40. I think the factory is dying.

The only difference is that in a factory bolted tank, not only the screws transfer the forces. There are also wounds around the seals that absorb a lot of forces, and the screws are much larger and screwed directly into the material.
When carving a slit tank, there is nothing more than screws to absorb force during work. In addition, a drilled hole will never fit as well as a screw screwed directly into the material. In addition, the screws that can be used in most tank rims are a maximum of four, sometimes even three.
Gluing and "screwing" will never give a perfect connection, the two halves of the tank against each other will continue to work. Without a strong and at the same time flexible binder, we will quickly have a leak at the joint.

That's why I stubbornly repeat, although I also started playing with frogs, I've already cured myself of it. Unfortunately, this is a crauter method that has many disadvantages. The only right thing is to weld plastics. If you wish, you can do it at home. Melting the plastic is not that difficult.