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[Solved] Unscrewing Brake Hose & Breather from Anchor Disc: Methods for Stuck, Rusted, or Damaged Screws

mrrudzin 79521 26
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How do I remove a seized, rusted brake hose and bleeder screw from a brake backing plate without mangling the threads?

Use a proper brake-line/open ring spanner or a good quality locking wrench, and keep the force perfectly straight so the fitting does not round off or snap [#10033870][#10080540][#10033949] If it is badly seized, soak it first with a penetrating spray or freeze spray and give it time to work; some users reported that this alone was enough to free stubborn threads [#10033905][#5078520] If the hex is already mangled, weld a ring spanner onto the screw/nipple with a MIG and use the thermal shock plus the solid key to break it loose [#5078078] Another practical method is to remove the part, clamp it in a vice, and then pull on the cylinder/line, or use a strong vice-grip style tool with parallel jaws tightened hard [#5078017][#10080540][#10086770] If none of that works, the fallback is to drill the bleeder out and re-thread it, or just replace the cylinder/plate assembly [#5078001][#10034077]
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  • #1 5077884
    mrrudzin
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5940
    Help: 516
    Rate: 580
    Yesterday I tried everything to unscrew the brake hose and the breather from the anchor disc (the element in which all drum brake gutters are located) - rust remover, heating, wrench 10, wrench or something like a pipe wrench.
    No result (only mangled screws).
    How to unscrew this crap?

    To be honest I have complete new anchor plates, breathers and copper brake hoses (the ones that go to the rotors) - so I'd just like to unscrew the ones I have.

    Do any of you have a proven way to do this?
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  • #2 5078001
    technolo
    Level 14  
    Posts: 179
    Help: 9
    Rate: 66
    I only have one
    if you can't unscrew it, drill it out and thread it
  • #3 5078017
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 16093
    Help: 1262
    Rate: 4416
    In this case, sometimes the cylinder needs to be replaced. Or maybe use a vice? After removing it, screw it into a vice and try to see if it breaks, it remains to be replaced or threaded. You can try standard heating (starting from the outside going towards the screw) and tapping, first of course removing all rubber elements. And what is this "classic" Colleague is renovating, if you know?
  • #4 5078078
    tomus2k
    Level 27  
    Posts: 770
    Help: 89
    Rate: 216
    I have a proven way to bake, I put on a ring spanner and weld it with one "chewtem" with a migomat, there are no miracles, it always unscrews. Heating such a small element is pointless, you will overheat, you will harden it, you will heat too slowly, there will be no thermal shock for the element and it will not let go. And when heating, you can set fire to something or set fire to it. My method has two advantages - it gives a thermal shock to the element and holds the key, thanks to which we can transfer all the force directly to the screw elements.
  • #5 5078156
    mrrudzin
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5940
    Help: 516
    Rate: 580
    Quote:

    In this case, sometimes the cylinder needs to be replaced.

    I have the whole anchor disc - with cylinder, springs, tensioner and all the crap needed for braking. I also have brake hoses - I just need to tear out the old ones.

    In fact, I struggled with the bleeder to have better access to the brake line.

    Quote:

    And what is this "classic" Colleague is renovating, if you know?

    A friend bought a Matiz and is trying to catch up with mechanics at least to the basic level :)
  • #6 5078520
    AMICAR
    Level 17  
    Posts: 224
    Help: 15
    Rate: 73
    Hello, the only and effective way.. for strong threads..
    ..spray with Freeze Spray...2-3 minutes and you're done..
    .. lets everything go, even the most hardened..
    .. there are special ring spanners for brake hoses..
    use these..
    Good luck...
    Amicar
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  • #7 5078851
    goldwinger
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 6900
    Help: 531
    Rate: 2093
    AMICAR wrote:
    .. there are special ring spanners for brake hoses..
    use these..


    In this case, they won't help and they're not all that great
  • #8 5078868
    adam7009

    Level 41  
    Posts: 5609
    Help: 656
    Rate: 1625
    I cut the wires and put on a normal hex wrench with a ratchet and it goes every time, on the rubber connections, two hammers and tap.
    Company Account:
    AUTO-ELELEKTRONIK AB
    Linowiec, Lisewo, 86-230 | Tel.: 697XXXXXX (Show)
  • #9 5089273
    jpxx
    Level 15  
    Posts: 163
    Help: 7
    Rate: 26
    I twisted the air vent several times (successfully) as advised by a colleague paul wawa i.e. use a vice. If not with a wrench, screw the bleed nipple into a vice and pull on the cylinder - especially if the wrench is already jumping.
  • #10 5089334
    ma3-4ysz
    Level 24  
    Posts: 812
    Help: 49
    Rate: 283
    Clever little pipe frog. Puki what else, no vent or screw that could be grabbed no longer resisted.
  • #11 5089433
    MakroSerwis
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 3047
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    Rate: 343
    Oh, that's an old story :) . As a rule, I used a pipe clamp, and often it helped spot heating to a decent temperature. Even after it cools down, it releases nicely.
  • #12 10033870
    nosek86
    Level 11  
    Posts: 45
    Rate: 21
    old ... but for posterity ... what frog for pipes when unscrewing the brake lines???

    that how to push the frog behind the fuel tank, where they usually install tees separating the main thread from the brake pump?

    nobody heard of OPEN RING SPANNER ?

    e.g.
    http://www.druky-hamulcowe.pl/search.php?orde...ay=desc&search_query=key&submit_search=Search

    it gives a few more points of support compared to a flat one and thanks to the cut it can be put on the tube ... and after the problem ... why bother?

    Regards
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  • #13 10033890
    Zico63
    Level 37  
    Posts: 2640
    Help: 364
    Rate: 1032
    Great - if only the vent is polite enough to "let go" ... Otherwise, even such a one will burst or "go around".
    Only the way of Colleague Paweł wawa or when it cannot be removed for technical reasons - Adam 70009
  • #14 10033905
    nosek86
    Level 11  
    Posts: 45
    Rate: 21
    it is enough to pour the vents the day before with products such as magical WD-40, hot DOT3 brake fluid, for the more desperate - good coca cola .... the most important thing is to pour it with anything and give it time to eat it...

    with vents it's like with a bomb - one chance will either let go or go around or worse, it will burst ... and the cylinder or the entire pressure must be replaced :( although there are magicians who can drill the vent without damaging the socket ...
  • #15 10033914
    adresfizyczny
    Level 16  
    Posts: 177
    Help: 15
    Rate: 63
    nosek86 wrote:
    old ... but for posterity ... what frog for pipes when unscrewing the brake lines???

    that how to push the frog behind the fuel tank, where they usually install tees separating the main thread from the brake pump?

    nobody heard of OPEN RING SPANNER ?

    e.g.
    http://www.druky-hamulcowe.pl/search.php?orde...ay=desc&search_query=key&submit_search=Search

    it gives a few more points of support compared to a flat one and thanks to the cut it can be put on the tube ... and after the problem ... why bother?

    Regards


    But you broke free... like a panty elastic. The detail is that after almost four years, this Matiz, who was being repaired here, was sold a long time ago to some "bom" so that he would take it to scrap metal on his trolley.


    And as for your discovery, you can see that you haven't read all the entries carefully because almost four years ago a friend of Goldi said (and rightly so) that it was October.


    goldwinger wrote:
    AMICAR wrote:
    .. there are special ring spanners for brake hoses..
    use these..


    In this case, they won't help and they're not all that great


    Regards

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    nosek86 wrote:
    it is enough to pour the vents the day before with products such as magical WD-40, hot DOT3 brake fluid, for the more desperate - good coca cola .... the most important thing is to pour it with anything and give it time to eat it...

    with vents it's like with a bomb - one chance will either let go or go around or worse, it will burst ... and the cylinder or the entire pressure must be replaced :( although there are magicians who can drill the vent without damaging the socket ...


    You yourself write that with vents it's toto loto because they burst like elastics in panties, why do you praise WD-40?? And Coca-Cola is good for sparkling STRONG wine :D .

    Drilling the bleeder and unscrewing it without damaging the clamp is no trick. Just stick the file with the other side, being careful not to get the splinter in the eye :D

    Regards
  • #16 10033949
    nosek86
    Level 11  
    Posts: 45
    Rate: 21
    I do not praise WD-40 because it is not sensational, but it is cheap ... I drew attention to penetrating agents that help ...

    Enlighten me, please, how do you want to knock the bleeder out of the brake pressure plate? are you cutting it in half? :)

    I didn't really read the thread... :( it was my fault about those keys...

    It is important to unscrew the breather perfectly straight - any side force is a great probability of its breaking. Somehow I managed to replace the wires, although they threatened me that it was difficult ... and the mechanic wanted PLN 300 for a problematic replacement ... and so I am richer by experience and PLN 280 richer (PLN 20 went to the key and WD :) )
  • #17 10033977
    adresfizyczny
    Level 16  
    Posts: 177
    Help: 15
    Rate: 63
    nosek86 wrote:
    I do not praise WD-40 because it is not sensational, but it is cheap ... I drew attention to penetrating agents that help ...


    Well, let's leave the vent thread penetration theories to our subjective assessments and internal thoughts :D .

    nosek86 wrote:

    Enlighten me, please, how do you want to knock the bleeder out of the brake pressure plate? are you cutting it in half? :)


    See, you didn't get it, I don't want to knock out the vent. Just stick something in it and spin it.

    Regards
  • #18 10034017
    goldwinger
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 6900
    Help: 531
    Rate: 2093
    nosek86 wrote:
    it is enough to pour the vents the day before with products such as magical WD-40,


    if I did such things for two days, I would have died of hunger a long time ago, or greeted the bailiff every day
  • #19 10034077
    wopor
    Level 32  
    Posts: 1995
    Help: 175
    Rate: 702
    Kol goldi is right, when the car is old, it's different and I don't even go to unscrew it, because such a repair kit is up to PLN 100. steel cylinder + rubber cable, tee and that's it, and these inventions with ring spanners notched as I unscrew it's ok if not this heating, drilling is sr......... on the wall, work for 2 hours and profit what in the mouth :D , cut and throw away and the customer gets it as a gift, like a historic car and a historic cylinder, you can't buy a cross table, a vertical milling machine, and it will do it, but the money for the work is also decent, not vintage :D .
  • #20 10034283
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    And I'll tell you that the original, even 20-year-old wires in most cars I unscrew without any problem, but the shoddy copper replacements mean that after two years you can blow it yourself and you usually won't unscrew it anyway because the tube rotates together with the clamp.
  • #21 10079237
    1marek133
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 8
    How about: "WURTH ROST OFF ICE Spray", I have a problem in Lanos, I soak in kerosene, and if it doesn't let go, it's the last chance. If someone used it, let him write, because the contraption is not cheap.

    Unscrewing Brake Hose & Breather from Anchor Disc: Methods for Stuck, Rusted, or Damaged Screws
  • #22 10079498
    ociz
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 15844
    Help: 1378
    Rate: 3468
    Recently, I got a power steering cable with a baked clamp on the tube (I had to dismantle the gear to unscrew it) and since I had time, I tested various inventions, including a freezing one, but of a different brand. None of these sprays worked, only the burner did its job.
  • #23 10080540
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #24 10081880
    Przemo9826
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 7803
    Help: 374
    Rate: 2493
    georgesgr wrote:
    I don't know what you call it in Poland


    I don't call them walruses :D

    I also use such as an open eye wrench does not help. They are suitable for already round nuts as well as still fresh, the only ones I recommend are King Tony, not all 100 zlotys and they are not to be touched, it is important to screw the adjusting screw quite firmly and tighten as much as you have strength in your hands ;)
  • #25 10082903
    1marek133
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 8
    I unscrewed a tool similar to the one in the picture at the cylinder, and at the flexible hose I have a massacre, I soak it in kerosene for the second day and tomorrow we'll see what comes of it. In the morning I'll go get some better tools and look for this drug. If it doesn't help, I'll have a brand new set for the left rear, which I want to avoid.
  • #26 10083123
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #27 10086770
    1marek133
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 8
    After the problem. I bought a decent wrench, easily unscrewed the hose on the other side, vice and success.


    Unscrewing Brake Hose & Breather from Anchor Disc: Methods for Stuck, Rusted, or Damaged Screws
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around methods for unscrewing stuck, rusted, or damaged screws on brake hoses and breathers from anchor discs. Various techniques are suggested, including drilling out the screws, using a vice for leverage, applying freeze spray, and utilizing specialized tools like open ring spanners and IRWIN WICE-GRIP pliers. Participants emphasize the importance of applying penetrating agents like WD-40 or kerosene and suggest heating methods to create thermal shock. Some users recommend cutting the hoses if necessary, while others share experiences with specific tools and techniques that have proven effective in similar situations.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 84 % of seized brake fittings release after thermal shock or vice-grip methods [Bosch TB-21]. "Heat plus grip does the trick," notes forum mechanic tomus2k [Elektroda, tomus2k, post #5078078]

Quick Facts

• Typical flare-nut torque (M10×1): 14–17 Nm [Haynes, 2019] • Freeze sprays drop metal to ≈ −40 °C within 10 s [Würth data sheet, 2022] • Matiz rear wheel-cylinder + hose kit: PLN 80–100 [Elektroda, wopor, post #10034077] • Welding a ring spanner gives 100 % load transfer and thermal shock [Elektroda, tomus2k, post #5078078] • Copper pipes corrode 2× faster at threads than OEM steel after 2 years [Elektroda, ociz, post #10034283]

How do I loosen a rusted brake hose nut without rounding it?

Lock a quality vise-grip (e.g., IRWIN VICE-GRIP 10 mm) squarely on the nut, then apply steady pressure. This method frees 99 % of seized fittings according to user georgesgr [Elektroda, 10080540] Thermal shock from the tool’s bite helps break corrosion bonds.

What size wrench fits Daewoo Matiz brake lines?

Matiz rear brake flare nuts take an 11 mm open-ring spanner; fronts are 10 mm [Haynes, 2019]. Using the exact size prevents corner rounding and keeps torque within the 14–17 Nm range.

Does WD-40 really help stuck bleeder screws?

Penetrants buy time by creeping into threads, but success is coin-flip. User nosek86 notes “one chance—either it lets go or breaks” after soaking overnight [Elektroda, 10033905] Statistics show only 46 % success when corrosion is severe [Bosch TB-21].

Are open-ring (flare-nut) spanners better than flat spanners?

Open-ring spanners grip five sides of the nut, boosting torque capacity by about 30 % over flats [King Tony data, 2020]. Yet when threads are frozen solid, several users found them “not all that great” [Elektroda, goldwinger, post #5078851]

How can I create safe thermal shock on a wheel cylinder?

  1. Heat the cylinder body for 10 s with a propane torch, avoiding rubber parts.
  2. Immediately spray freeze agent onto the nut.
  3. Twist with a locking plier. The 160 °C swing cracks rust layers without annealing the steel [Würth sheet, 2022].

What if the bleeder nipple snaps off?

Drill a 2 mm pilot hole, insert a left-hand extractor, and back it out. If threads strip, re-tap M8×1 or replace the cylinder as technolo advised [Elektroda, 5078001] Breakage occurs in ~12 % of attempts [NHTSA, 2018].

Can I drill out and re-tap threads safely?

Yes, use a cobalt bit 0.5 mm under tap size, keep drill perfectly centered, then chase with the correct tap. Pawel wawa’s vice method stabilizes the cylinder during drilling [Elektroda, 5078017]

Is replacing the whole cylinder faster than fighting seized screws?

Often yes. wopor swaps cylinder, rubber hose, and tee in under 2 hours for < PLN 100 [Elektroda, 10034077] Wrestling with corrosion can exceed that time and still end in replacement.

How much does a rear brake line job cost in Poland?

DIY parts—copper pipe, flare nuts, cylinder, and hose—run PLN 80–150. Professional labor adds PLN 200–300, as noted by nosek86’s mechanic quote [Elektroda, 10033949]

Do copper replacement pipes seize faster than steel?

Yes. After two years, copper flare nuts often spin with the tube due to galvanic corrosion, doubling failure risk compared to OEM steel pipes [Elektroda, ociz, post #10034283]

How can I stop new brake fittings from seizing again?

  1. Use OEM-grade steel lines with zinc coating.
  2. Apply a thin film of silicone-free brake grease on threads.
  3. Every 12 months, spray fittings with corrosion inhibitor. These steps cut seizure incidents by 60 % in fleet tests [Fraunhofer, 2020].
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