[Solved] Unscrewing Brake Hose & Breather from Anchor Disc: Methods for Stuck, Rusted, or Damaged Screws

Yesterday I tried everything to unscrew the brake hose and the breather from the anchor disc (the element in which all drum brake gutters are located) - rust remover, heating, wrench 10, wrench or something like a pipe wrench.
No result (only mangled screws).
How to unscrew this crap?

To be honest I have complete new anchor plates, breathers and copper brake hoses (the ones that go to the rotors) - so I'd just like to unscrew the ones I have.

Do any of you have a proven way to do this?

I only have one
if you can't unscrew it, drill it out and thread it

In this case, sometimes the cylinder needs to be replaced. Or maybe use a vice? After removing it, screw it into a vice and try to see if it breaks, it remains to be replaced or threaded. You can try standard heating (starting from the outside going towards the screw) and tapping, first of course removing all rubber elements. And what is this "classic" Colleague is renovating, if you know?

I have a proven way to bake, I put on a ring spanner and weld it with one "chewtem" with a migomat, there are no miracles, it always unscrews. Heating such a small element is pointless, you will overheat, you will harden it, you will heat too slowly, there will be no thermal shock for the element and it will not let go. And when heating, you can set fire to something or set fire to it. My method has two advantages - it gives a thermal shock to the element and holds the key, thanks to which we can transfer all the force directly to the screw elements.

Quote:

In this case, sometimes the cylinder needs to be replaced.

I have the whole anchor disc - with cylinder, springs, tensioner and all the crap needed for braking. I also have brake hoses - I just need to tear out the old ones.

In fact, I struggled with the bleeder to have better access to the brake line.

Quote:

And what is this "classic" Colleague is renovating, if you know?

A friend bought a Matiz and is trying to catch up with mechanics at least to the basic level

Hello, the only and effective way.. for strong threads..
..spray with Freeze Spray...2-3 minutes and you're done..
.. lets everything go, even the most hardened..
.. there are special ring spanners for brake hoses..
use these..
Good luck...
Amicar

AMICAR wrote:

.. there are special ring spanners for brake hoses..
use these..

In this case, they won't help and they're not all that great

I cut the wires and put on a normal hex wrench with a ratchet and it goes every time, on the rubber connections, two hammers and tap.

I twisted the air vent several times (successfully) as advised by a colleague paul wawa i.e. use a vice. If not with a wrench, screw the bleed nipple into a vice and pull on the cylinder - especially if the wrench is already jumping.

Clever little pipe frog. Puki what else, no vent or screw that could be grabbed no longer resisted.

Oh, that's an old story . As a rule, I used a pipe clamp, and often it helped spot heating to a decent temperature. Even after it cools down, it releases nicely.

old ... but for posterity ... what frog for pipes when unscrewing the brake lines???

that how to push the frog behind the fuel tank, where they usually install tees separating the main thread from the brake pump?

nobody heard of OPEN RING SPANNER ?

e.g.
http://www.druky-hamulcowe.pl/search.php?orde...ay=desc&search_query=key&submit_search=Search

it gives a few more points of support compared to a flat one and thanks to the cut it can be put on the tube ... and after the problem ... why bother?

Regards

Great - if only the vent is polite enough to "let go" ... Otherwise, even such a one will burst or "go around".
Only the way of Colleague Paweł wawa or when it cannot be removed for technical reasons - Adam 70009

it is enough to pour the vents the day before with products such as magical WD-40, hot DOT3 brake fluid, for the more desperate - good coca cola .... the most important thing is to pour it with anything and give it time to eat it...

with vents it's like with a bomb - one chance will either let go or go around or worse, it will burst ... and the cylinder or the entire pressure must be replaced although there are magicians who can drill the vent without damaging the socket ...

nosek86 wrote:

old ... but for posterity ... what frog for pipes when unscrewing the brake lines???

that how to push the frog behind the fuel tank, where they usually install tees separating the main thread from the brake pump?

nobody heard of OPEN RING SPANNER ?

e.g.
http://www.druky-hamulcowe.pl/search.php?orde...ay=desc&search_query=key&submit_search=Search

it gives a few more points of support compared to a flat one and thanks to the cut it can be put on the tube ... and after the problem ... why bother?

Regards

But you broke free... like a panty elastic. The detail is that after almost four years, this Matiz, who was being repaired here, was sold a long time ago to some "bom" so that he would take it to scrap metal on his trolley.


And as for your discovery, you can see that you haven't read all the entries carefully because almost four years ago a friend of Goldi said (and rightly so) that it was October.

goldwinger wrote:

AMICAR wrote:

.. there are special ring spanners for brake hoses..
use these..

In this case, they won't help and they're not all that great

Regards

Added after 3 [minutes]:

nosek86 wrote:

it is enough to pour the vents the day before with products such as magical WD-40, hot DOT3 brake fluid, for the more desperate - good coca cola .... the most important thing is to pour it with anything and give it time to eat it...

with vents it's like with a bomb - one chance will either let go or go around or worse, it will burst ... and the cylinder or the entire pressure must be replaced although there are magicians who can drill the vent without damaging the socket ...

You yourself write that with vents it's toto loto because they burst like elastics in panties, why do you praise WD-40?? And Coca-Cola is good for sparkling STRONG wine .

Drilling the bleeder and unscrewing it without damaging the clamp is no trick. Just stick the file with the other side, being careful not to get the splinter in the eye :D

Regards

I do not praise WD-40 because it is not sensational, but it is cheap ... I drew attention to penetrating agents that help ...

Enlighten me, please, how do you want to knock the bleeder out of the brake pressure plate? are you cutting it in half? :)

I didn't really read the thread... it was my fault about those keys...

It is important to unscrew the breather perfectly straight - any side force is a great probability of its breaking. Somehow I managed to replace the wires, although they threatened me that it was difficult ... and the mechanic wanted PLN 300 for a problematic replacement ... and so I am richer by experience and PLN 280 richer (PLN 20 went to the key and WD )

nosek86 wrote:

I do not praise WD-40 because it is not sensational, but it is cheap ... I drew attention to penetrating agents that help ...

Well, let's leave the vent thread penetration theories to our subjective assessments and internal thoughts .

nosek86 wrote:

Enlighten me, please, how do you want to knock the bleeder out of the brake pressure plate? are you cutting it in half?

See, you didn't get it, I don't want to knock out the vent. Just stick something in it and spin it.

Regards

nosek86 wrote:

it is enough to pour the vents the day before with products such as magical WD-40,

if I did such things for two days, I would have died of hunger a long time ago, or greeted the bailiff every day

Kol goldi is right, when the car is old, it's different and I don't even go to unscrew it, because such a repair kit is up to PLN 100. steel cylinder + rubber cable, tee and that's it, and these inventions with ring spanners notched as I unscrew it's ok if not this heating, drilling is sr......... on the wall, work for 2 hours and profit what in the mouth , cut and throw away and the customer gets it as a gift, like a historic car and a historic cylinder, you can't buy a cross table, a vertical milling machine, and it will do it, but the money for the work is also decent, not vintage .

And I'll tell you that the original, even 20-year-old wires in most cars I unscrew without any problem, but the shoddy copper replacements mean that after two years you can blow it yourself and you usually won't unscrew it anyway because the tube rotates together with the clamp.

How about: "WURTH ROST OFF ICE Spray", I have a problem in Lanos, I soak in kerosene, and if it doesn't let go, it's the last chance. If someone used it, let him write, because the contraption is not cheap.

Recently, I got a power steering cable with a baked clamp on the tube (I had to dismantle the gear to unscrew it) and since I had time, I tested various inventions, including a freezing one, but of a different brand. None of these sprays worked, only the burner did its job.

georgesgr wrote:

I don't know what you call it in Poland

I don't call them walruses :D

I also use such as an open eye wrench does not help. They are suitable for already round nuts as well as still fresh, the only ones I recommend are King Tony, not all 100 zlotys and they are not to be touched, it is important to screw the adjusting screw quite firmly and tighten as much as you have strength in your hands

I unscrewed a tool similar to the one in the picture at the cylinder, and at the flexible hose I have a massacre, I soak it in kerosene for the second day and tomorrow we'll see what comes of it. In the morning I'll go get some better tools and look for this drug. If it doesn't help, I'll have a brand new set for the left rear, which I want to avoid.

After the problem. I bought a decent wrench, easily unscrewed the hose on the other side, vice and success.