FAQ
TL;DR: You don’t need to pull the drum; replace the engine hanger from the bottom. One cotter pin secures the switch cam, and “there is only a cotter pin.” [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]
Quick Facts
- Engine hanger is serviceable from the bottom; top cover removal is unnecessary. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]
- The pictured “brake” is actually the switch mechanism; the real brake sits inside the motor. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]
- New aftermarket hangers may differ in length from originals; check dimensions before fitting. [Elektroda, peter falk, post #16641080]
- Penetrating oil helps free rusted parts; spray and let it work before turning. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16639165]
- For irregular fasteners, tap lightly, then use locking (Mors/Vise‑Grip) pliers. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16659333]
How do I remove the Frania cover without the brake blocking it?
You usually don’t. Access the engine hanger from the bottom and avoid disturbing the top brake/handle assembly. This approach prevents alignment issues and saves time. If you must lift the cover later, service from below first so the rod and cam remain undisturbed. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]
Do I need to pull the drum to change the rubber engine hanger?
No. Remove the lower cover and swap the hanger from underneath. This avoids fighting the brake rod and handle. It’s the recommended path even if the top looks stuck. Most users finish the hanger swap once the bottom is open. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]
What is the “brake” versus the switch mechanism here?
In this unit, the actual brake is inside the motor. The external plastic/rod assembly is the switch mechanism. Its cam is held by a single cotter pin. “There is only a cotter pin.” Do not hunt for a screw that isn’t there. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]
How do I release the cam if I still want to disassemble the switch mechanism?
Pull the cotter pin straight out, then slide the cam upward off the shaft. Keep track of orientation for reassembly. Avoid twisting as if it were threaded; it is pinned, not screwed. Refit in reverse with the pin fully seated. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]
My bottom fastener looks rusted and won’t budge—what should I use?
Soak the area with penetrating oil such as WD‑40. Let it penetrate, then try again. Work the part back and forth rather than forcing a continuous turn. Reapply if needed before attempting removal. “Spray with a rust remover, eg WD.” [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16639165]
The bolt head is irregular—what tool actually works here?
Lightly tap the fastener to break rust, then grip it with locking pliers (Mors/Vise‑Grip). These bite irregular shapes better than wrenches. Keep steady pressure while nudging to start movement. Avoid rounding by repositioning as it loosens. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16659333]
Why does my bottom cover look welded—can it be removed?
Photos in the thread show the bottom cover disassembled, exposing the hangers. If it looks welded, you might be seeing factory seams or paint binding. Work methodically along fixings and pry points to release it without damaging edges. [Elektroda, peter falk, post #16660110]
Are new engine hangers the same length as originals?
Not always. Some aftermarket hangers differ in length. Compare old and new before installing, or adjust mounting to keep motor height correct. “New hangers… sometimes differing in length from the originals.” This prevents belt or alignment issues. [Elektroda, peter falk, post #16641080]
How is the top plastic handle attached—are there visible screws or pins?
Users report no visible screws, pins, or bolts on the handle. That’s why accessing the hanger from below is preferred. Expect a concealed linkage with limited clearance, making top‑side disassembly awkward without benefits. Zero visible screws is normal here. [Elektroda, tomi137, post #16638908]
What happens if I try to unscrew the ‘brake screw’ under the unit?
You risk damaging the switch cam and linkage because there is no screw there. The cam is retained by a cotter pin. Forcing an imaginary screw can deform parts and complicate reassembly. Identify the pin and lift the cam instead. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]
Quick 3‑step: How do I replace the engine hanger without touching the top?
- Unplug the unit and remove the bottom cover to expose the hanger.
- Support the motor, unhook the old hanger, and fit the new one.
- Refit the cover, spin by hand to verify clearance, then test briefly. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]
Any extra tips for stuck parts on this centrifuge?
Sequence helps: tap to shock rust, apply penetrant, then use locking pliers for grip. Re‑apply penetrant and wait if it resists. Increase leverage gradually. Expert tip: “Tap with a hammer and then use a Mors pliers.” [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16659333]
