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Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap

tomi137 7392 11
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  • #1 16638558
    tomi137
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Hello, I have a franie centrifuge and a few days ago the rubber holding the engine broke. I have to pull out the drum to get to the bottom, but I can't because removing the cover blocks a plastic brake at the top, connected to a rod and a rubber cap at the bottom. Does anyone know how to disassemble the brake and remove the cover? I plan to remove the cap at the bottom of the brake, but it rusted and I am afraid that there will be a problem with reassembly later. One more question - how to unscrew the plastic cap? I tried to unscrew while holding the screw on the bottom, but I don't want to move.

    Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap
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  • #2 16638668
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15004
    Help: 1981
    Rate: 4560
    Take another picture of the brake at the top from a horizontal position facing the end that goes into the housing.
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  • #3 16638701
    tomi137
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Was this the photo you wanted? The first photo down (the rod at the bottom probably has a rubber cap). Second photos are the top where it enters the plastic handle.

    Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap
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  • #4 16638826
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15004
    Help: 1981
    Rate: 4560
    I was more concerned with the plastic handle as it is connected to the rod, looking above the lid to see if there is a pin that connects the shaft to the handle. I used to replace the rubbers that held the drum, but it was a few or maybe ... ten years ago and I don't really remember.
  • #5 16638908
    tomi137
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Unfortunately, it cannot be checked, because there is no gap between the handle and the cover to see how it is mounted, and the handle has no bolts, pins, screws, etc. I tried to feel with my hand but I did not feel anything moving.
  • #6 16639165
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15004
    Help: 1981
    Rate: 4560
    If you are sure that this is the case, then everything that is put there must unscrew from the bottom of the knob. It must be sprayed with a rust remover, eg WD.
  • #7 16640839
    zhudomel
    Home appliances specialist  
    Posts: 4991
    Help: 1279
    Rate: 3358
    tomi137 wrote:
    I have to pull out the drum
    What for? The engine hanger can be replaced from the bottom by removing only the bottom cover.
  • #8 16641080
    peter falk
    Home appliances specialist  
    Posts: 7549
    Help: 1158
    Rate: 3354
    zhudomel wrote:
    What for? The engine hanger can be replaced from the bottom by removing only the bottom cover.

    Heh. Sometimes it is necessary, especially when someone has untrained hands ;)
    Warning ! New hangers available on the market, sometimes differing in length from the originals.
  • #9 16659247
    tomi137
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    The bottom cover cannot be removed because it is welded to the structure, I also cannot unscrew the brake from the bottom, I sprayed it, but the screw is irregular in shape and it won't unscrew. (picture)
    Frania Centrifuge: Remove Cover, Disassemble Brake, Fix Rubber Engine Holder & Unscrew Rusty Cap
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  • #10 16659333
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Posts: 15004
    Help: 1981
    Rate: 4560
    tomi137 wrote:
    i cant unscrew the brake from the bottom either i sprayed but the bolt is irregular in shape and i don't want to unscrew. (picture)
    Tap with a hammer and then use a Mors pliers or similar instead of a wrench.
  • Helpful post
    #11 16660044
    zhudomel
    Home appliances specialist  
    Posts: 4991
    Help: 1279
    Rate: 3358
    tomi137 wrote:
    The bottom cover cannot be removed
    - after all it is disassembled.
    tomi137 wrote:
    I also can't unscrew the brake from the bottom
    - the brake is inside the engine. What you can see in the picture is the switch mechanism and there is no screw; there is only a cotter pin, after which the switch cam is pulled up. Why bother. You can replace the engine hanger without disassembling this mechanism. But if you want to make a mess ...
  • #12 16660110
    peter falk
    Home appliances specialist  
    Posts: 7549
    Help: 1158
    Rate: 3354
    zhudomel wrote:
    tomi137 wrote:
    The bottom cover cannot be removed
    - after all it is disassembled.

    Well, because it is:
    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1159248500_1502554082.jpg
    And in the above photo hangers can be seen.
    tomi137 wrote:
    removing the cover blocks the plastic brake at the top

    Yes. Taking it off makes the job easier, but to take it off you have to activate additional brain ganglia :D
    Some "alien" hit the forum :D
    And that's it.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting a Frania centrifuge, specifically addressing issues with a broken rubber engine holder and difficulties in disassembling the brake mechanism to access the drum. The user seeks guidance on removing the cover, disassembling the brake, and unscrewing a rusty cap. Responses suggest taking additional photographs for clarity, using rust remover like WD-40, and tapping with a hammer to loosen stuck screws. Some participants note that the engine hanger can be replaced without fully disassembling the brake mechanism, while others emphasize the need for careful handling due to the irregular shape of the screws involved. The bottom cover is reported to be welded, complicating the disassembly process.
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FAQ

TL;DR: You don’t need to pull the drum; replace the engine hanger from the bottom. One cotter pin secures the switch cam, and “there is only a cotter pin.” [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]

Quick Facts

How do I remove the Frania cover without the brake blocking it?

You usually don’t. Access the engine hanger from the bottom and avoid disturbing the top brake/handle assembly. This approach prevents alignment issues and saves time. If you must lift the cover later, service from below first so the rod and cam remain undisturbed. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]

Do I need to pull the drum to change the rubber engine hanger?

No. Remove the lower cover and swap the hanger from underneath. This avoids fighting the brake rod and handle. It’s the recommended path even if the top looks stuck. Most users finish the hanger swap once the bottom is open. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]

What is the “brake” versus the switch mechanism here?

In this unit, the actual brake is inside the motor. The external plastic/rod assembly is the switch mechanism. Its cam is held by a single cotter pin. “There is only a cotter pin.” Do not hunt for a screw that isn’t there. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]

How do I release the cam if I still want to disassemble the switch mechanism?

Pull the cotter pin straight out, then slide the cam upward off the shaft. Keep track of orientation for reassembly. Avoid twisting as if it were threaded; it is pinned, not screwed. Refit in reverse with the pin fully seated. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]

My bottom fastener looks rusted and won’t budge—what should I use?

Soak the area with penetrating oil such as WD‑40. Let it penetrate, then try again. Work the part back and forth rather than forcing a continuous turn. Reapply if needed before attempting removal. “Spray with a rust remover, eg WD.” [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16639165]

The bolt head is irregular—what tool actually works here?

Lightly tap the fastener to break rust, then grip it with locking pliers (Mors/Vise‑Grip). These bite irregular shapes better than wrenches. Keep steady pressure while nudging to start movement. Avoid rounding by repositioning as it loosens. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16659333]

Why does my bottom cover look welded—can it be removed?

Photos in the thread show the bottom cover disassembled, exposing the hangers. If it looks welded, you might be seeing factory seams or paint binding. Work methodically along fixings and pry points to release it without damaging edges. [Elektroda, peter falk, post #16660110]

Are new engine hangers the same length as originals?

Not always. Some aftermarket hangers differ in length. Compare old and new before installing, or adjust mounting to keep motor height correct. “New hangers… sometimes differing in length from the originals.” This prevents belt or alignment issues. [Elektroda, peter falk, post #16641080]

How is the top plastic handle attached—are there visible screws or pins?

Users report no visible screws, pins, or bolts on the handle. That’s why accessing the hanger from below is preferred. Expect a concealed linkage with limited clearance, making top‑side disassembly awkward without benefits. Zero visible screws is normal here. [Elektroda, tomi137, post #16638908]

What happens if I try to unscrew the ‘brake screw’ under the unit?

You risk damaging the switch cam and linkage because there is no screw there. The cam is retained by a cotter pin. Forcing an imaginary screw can deform parts and complicate reassembly. Identify the pin and lift the cam instead. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16660044]

Quick 3‑step: How do I replace the engine hanger without touching the top?

  1. Unplug the unit and remove the bottom cover to expose the hanger.
  2. Support the motor, unhook the old hanger, and fit the new one.
  3. Refit the cover, spin by hand to verify clearance, then test briefly. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16640839]

Any extra tips for stuck parts on this centrifuge?

Sequence helps: tap to shock rust, apply penetrant, then use locking pliers for grip. Re‑apply penetrant and wait if it resists. Increase leverage gradually. Expert tip: “Tap with a hammer and then use a Mors pliers.” [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16659333]
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