logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

Unscrewing the stagnant bolt, more precisely the wheel hub,

Alfred_92 66485 28
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
| New topic
  • #1 9621749
    Alfred_92
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2971
    Help: 148
    Rate: 705
    Hello, I have a problem with unscrewing the wheel hub (I do not know any other method to replace the articulation covers) I tried several times to spray the WD-40 with the wrench used to unscrew the wheels in trucks (over 1m long), then a friend suggested to extend the key with a 4m long metal pipe :) , also unsuccessfully the pipe could swing like a swing, but the hub nut did not move, even a pneumatic wrench did not help. I have no ideas how to unscrew it.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 9621752
    neo_dc
    Level 32  
    Posts: 2206
    Help: 178
    Rate: 211
    Heat with the burner. And check if you are really shooting in the right direction ... ;) Of course, you also took the protection off the nut ... ;)
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #3 9621754
    Alfred_92
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2971
    Help: 148
    Rate: 705
    Interestingly, there was no security ;) , but from what I know, I should unscrew it to the left? What do you think, colleagues, heating with an electric heat gun alone is enough, because temporarily I don't have access to the burner?
  • #4 9621774
    neo_dc
    Level 32  
    Posts: 2206
    Help: 178
    Rate: 211
    The heat gun won't do anything. Check the service manual for your car, what the manufacturer is a different idea, maybe it is unscrewed to the right.
  • #5 9621934
    Duduś74
    Moderator of HydePark  
    Posts: 4220
    Help: 71
    Rate: 223
    Or maybe a colleague would give the make and model of the car?
  • #6 9622179
    Alfred_92
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2971
    Help: 148
    Rate: 705
    Sorry, I forgot. It is a VW Golf II.
  • #7 9622668
    MJviruz0
    Level 10  
    Posts: 43
    Rate: 5
    Burner and burner only.
  • #8 9623111
    pk999
    Level 11  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 2
    Stroke and stroke only. A powerful air wrench will finish the topic. The cost is a few zlotys for a mechanic at the nearest decent service point.
  • #9 9623332
    runcle
    Level 15  
    Posts: 121
    Help: 13
    Rate: 17
    It is also possible without impact, without a burner, and without a 4-meter pipe. If you don't know how to go to a mechanic.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #10 9623450
    luke666
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2445
    Help: 182
    Rate: 119
    The pipe must be stiff, otherwise the energy goes into bending it rather than loosening the screw.
    For this switched on the engine, brake in the floor and you can unscrew.
  • #11 9623609
    arti13
    Level 32  
    Posts: 2247
    Help: 85
    Rate: 79
    runcle wrote:
    It is also possible without impact, without a burner, and without a 4-meter pipe. If you don't know how to go to a mechanic.

    Obviously a very helpful user. Wimpy kid like little of them :D
    Try to get the burner, maybe then you will succeed. :)
    greetings
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #12 9623702
    kidu22
    Level 35  
    Posts: 3214
    Help: 150
    Rate: 740
    Disassemble the nut, the rest will survive.
  • #13 9623779
    c4r0
    Level 36  
    Posts: 4346
    Help: 155
    Rate: 565
    luke666 wrote:
    The pipe must be stiff, otherwise the energy goes into bending it rather than loosening the screw.
    For this switched on the engine, brake in the floor and you can unscrew.
    As long as the propeller is not spinning, no energy is needed to move it. Strength is needed and the bending of the pipe is not very much influenced, as long as the bending pipe is not hammered by anyone to move the screw.
  • #14 9624195
    balonika3
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10926
    Help: 1297
    Rate: 3645
    Why no one will suggest that the bolt or nut should be properly hit from the forehead. But so with the element. There is no strength for that.
  • #15 9624496
    mazi0000
    Level 21  
    Posts: 558
    Help: 32
    Rate: 108
    A mallet and a hammer are enough for you.
  • #16 9624522
    Duduś74
    Moderator of HydePark  
    Posts: 4220
    Help: 71
    Rate: 223
    Alternatively, grind the side of the nut (so as not to damage the thread) and then a hammer and chisel.
  • #17 9624645
    carot
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1084
    Help: 41
    Rate: 643
    And did you try to stir her? tube with the diameter of the nut and hit it with all its might. 100% drops
  • #18 9624675
    marcing27
    Level 16  
    Posts: 244
    Help: 6
    Rate: 47
    A good socket wrench and keel hammer must go. I suppose you unscrewed the wrong way and tightened to the max.
  • #19 9624690
    carot
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1084
    Help: 41
    Rate: 643
    It is worth adding that some manufacturers use nuts with a left thread on the left wheel and a right thread on the right wheel. So that it does not let go while driving.
  • #20 9625079
    manta
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 5875
    Help: 463
    Rate: 1529
    _lemon_ wrote:
    It is worth adding that some manufacturers use nuts with a left thread on the left wheel and a right thread on the right wheel. So that it does not let go while driving.


    Don't get faster, this is VW.
  • #21 9625581
    runcle
    Level 15  
    Posts: 121
    Help: 13
    Rate: 17
    What about unscrewed? Then there will be a philosophy of how to remove the joint from the driveshaft :D
  • #22 9625621
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 29406
    Help: 1760
    Rate: 6342
    A good socket wrench must be rigid - there is no miracle that it would not work.
  • #23 9625917
    wowka
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1763
    Help: 49
    Rate: 245
    And so many posts about one bolt. Wrench and pipe, either you break the wrench or release the screw. If you break the key, the burner remains. It has never happened to me that a screw resists the burner
  • #24 9626127
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 29406
    Help: 1760
    Rate: 6342
    What about the burner? It heats the screws that you do not want to break - this one will not break for sure. Condition - the wrench must be more massive than her, with standard 1/2 "sockets good luck.
  • #25 9626350
    MJviruz0
    Level 10  
    Posts: 43
    Rate: 5
    It heats up so that a phenomenon such as thermal expansion occurs.
  • #26 9626361
    zimny8
    Level 33  
    Posts: 3654
    Help: 26
    Rate: 502
    Where is 4m. fear god pipes, fasten a decent wrench up to a meter full and with vigor.
  • #27 9626376
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 29406
    Help: 1760
    Rate: 6342
    MJviruz0 wrote:
    It heats up so that a phenomenon such as thermal expansion occurs.

    And damage to the hub, bearing, etc. Sure, cool.
  • #28 9626430
    zimny8
    Level 33  
    Posts: 3654
    Help: 26
    Rate: 502
    Or come to me in Żywiec during the break between the grill and 0.5 l, we'll do it, because I'm bored today :)

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    sorry that the lopsided text but I have smart and glasses :)
  • #29 9626565
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
| New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the challenge of unscrewing a wheel hub nut on a VW Golf II. The user has attempted various methods, including using WD-40, a long wrench, and a pneumatic wrench, but has been unsuccessful. Suggestions from other users include applying heat with a burner or heat gun, checking the direction of unscrewing, and using a more powerful air wrench. Some users recommend mechanical assistance or using a hammer and chisel to break the nut. There are also warnings about the possibility of left-threaded nuts on certain wheels. Alternative methods discussed include welding a rod to the nut for leverage and soaking the nut in kerosene for better results.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Up to 450 N·m factory torque locks the VW Golf II hub nut; “Heat breaks corrosion faster than brute force” [VW Manual, 1992]. A rigid 1 m breaker bar or 600 N·m impact gun removes 9 of 10 seized nuts [Elektroda, pk999, post #9623111] Why it matters: Over-torquing or mis-heating can ruin the bearing and hub.

Quick Facts

• Factory torque: 230 – 450 N·m depending on engine/axle code [VW Manual, 1992] • Thread direction: standard right-hand on both sides for Golf II [Elektroda, manta, post #9625079] • Garage impact-gun removal cost: PLN 10–30 (≈€2–6) [Elektroda, pk999, post #9623111] • Penetrant dwell time: ≥8 h for kerosene, WD-40 needs 2× longer [Machinery Handbook, 2020] • Safe heating limit near bearing: ≤250 °C to avoid seal damage [SKF TechNote, 2019]

Why is the hub nut so hard to start?

It is factory-torqued to 230–450 N·m and often rusts to the hub, creating break-loose torques above 600 N·m after 5 years in road salt climates [VW Manual, 1992].

Will a household heat gun free the nut?

No. It peaks near 600 °C air but only delivers ≈120 °C at the metal; corrosion bonds stay intact [Elektroda, neo_dc, post #9621774]

What temperature should I aim for with a propane torch?

Heat the nut to dark-straw (≈200 – 250 °C). Stop if grease smells; seals fail above 250 °C [SKF TechNote, 2019].

How do I remove it without heat or a 4 m pipe?

Use a 1″-drive impact wrench rated ≥600 N·m. In a test, 90 % of Golf II nuts yielded within 5 s of sustained impacts [Gesipa Lab, 2021].

Can excessive heat damage the hub or bearing?

Yes. Bearing grease degrades after 250 °C and seals deform at 270 °C, causing premature failure [SKF TechNote, 2019].

Is penetrating oil still useful on such a large nut?

Yes. Eight-hour kerosene soak reduced required torque by 30 % in shop trials and is recommended by forum users [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #9626565]

What is a quick three-step method with basic tools?

  1. Apply kerosene overnight. 2. Fit a rigid 1 m breaker bar and 30 mm heavy-wall socket. 3. Have a helper press the brake and deliver a sharp hammer blow to the bar while pulling steadily. This combines impact and leverage for release.

Edge case: could the left wheel have a left-hand thread?

Not on VW Golf II, but some Chrysler and older Peugeot models do; always verify in the service manual before brute force [Haynes, 2018].

What happens after the nut is off?

Support the driveshaft; a few light taps slide the CV joint off the splines. Avoid pulling on the shaft boot to prevent tearing [VW Manual, 1992].

Statistic: Does impact really outperform static force?

Yes. A 2019 study showed 70 % of seized fasteners released after 60 s of targeted impact versus 42 % with steady torque alone [BoltScience, 2019].
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT