Unscrewing Screws from Brake Yoke: Step-by-Step Guide for Citroen Berlingo Brake Disc Replacement

Today, briefly on the subject.
You want to replace the brake disc and come to the moment you unscrew the bolts securing the yoke.
If you downplay this fragment, you will treat yourself to a string of unnecessary material losses and labor-intensive activities.
The photos discuss the process on the example of citroen berlingo.
The bolts from the yoke are originally tightened with a high torque and fastened with the use of demountable adhesive - blue color on the threads.
In many parts of the network there are tips that partly answer the question.
Take the basic advice:
- apply all the given methods at the same time and the screws will unscrew !!!
-adjusting only some methods will damage the milling cutter on the t55 torx
- most often the screw is damaged by jumping out of the key from the screw during unscrewing
- it should be added that the screws are hard to reach - service

So, go to work:
- use keys of good quality
- the key knob can not be shock absorbed - 3/4 inch lever with reduction
- lock the key when unscrewing with the carpentry clamp - the most important
- place the thread with a small burner around 200 °, cover the rubber gaskets
tin from a beer can
-the burner must have a narrow stream of fire
- unscrew the screw with the help of the applied pipe on the knob
- do not use loosening by slow pressure on the key
- do not forget about hitting the screw with a hammer
-you can also make a stroke in the side of the screw by using a chisel

As you can see in the pictures, the screws are not corroded so pouring them with all sprays brings a small effect.

I will add a torx socket well from me because you can make a mistake in the choice of torx.
And after the bolt I beat it with the torx inserted.
I prefer to destroy torx like a screw.

I would add that it is best to use sockets 1/2 inch impact type.
During loosening they absorb the least.

I was going to start a separate topic, but I do not need this question. Because my question is. I want to have a device that will help me unscrew the screws from the yoke's suspension, etc. Here comes the induction device.

For example, something like that.


The above mentioned device is perfect for this type of cases.

Now one more question. Can something like the movie below be adapted to help me unscrew the screws.




Can you:
- change the size of the induction loop
- number of rolls
- get rid of cooling

Good tools, and it did not happen that I would not unscrew. By the way, ceramic grease is used for the slides, not oil.
pozdr

@bendar Maybe a colleague who founded this thread: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3542406.html#17708739 will be able to help?

k. przemo 27
probably it is not the original lubrication of the slide, but as a syringe through the rubber cover you will press the lubricant.
Many years I used oil / even burned / and it was a better solution than dry work with rust in the middle - so good manufacturers of cheap replacements.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

k. bendar
I had no contact with the heaters to unscrew, but for surface hardening, yes.
I think it's a good non-invasive unscrewing !!
Only road and heavy equipment to do yourself.

@ andrzej123456 enter yourself in google ZVS induction heating and you are sobbing that it is not so expensive anymore. I became interested in it because I already experienced persistence with loosening of rusty screws.

weld large caps on these heads from yokes and then replace them with others

Added after 4 [minutes]:

vogelek1 wrote:

weld large caps on these heads from yokes and then replace them with others

and no one writes about the basic principle of unscrewing bolts, i.e. you have to tighten it first to unscrew such seized bolts. Greetings.

I see that you want to fasten with screws .

Quote:

the basic principle of unscrewing screws, i.e. you have to tighten them first to loosen them

valuable advice ... I will check how it works in combat.

Not always the first screw tightening method works, it depends on several factors,

vogelek1 wrote:

Not always the first screw tightening method works, it depends on several factors,

This does not mislead the user.

vogelek1 wrote:

weld large caps on these heads from yokes and then replace them with others

andrzej123456 wrote:

it should be added that the screws are hard to reach - servicing

There have been such patents, and after repairing the torches, only hex bolts could not get into the place. Often the factory establishes a torx and when buying a replacement there are already hexagonal screws.

andrzej123456 wrote:

but as you push the syringe through the rubber cover you will press the lubricant.

It undresses and cleans or eventually exchanges like corroded echoes ...

k. Jan 1815-
-the idea of replacing the torx screws with an ordinary hexagon - after a slight corrosion in the hexagon, the keys rotate and after the event - checked and that is why the car industry uses torx

k.vogelek1-
I think that pre-tightening is more risky than hitting a screw with a copper hammer and gives the same effect!

Added after 2 [minutes]:

To all-
I see that colleagues forget that the discussed screws combine demountable adhesive and this completely changes the situation.

Heat the screws with a burner, then pour water so that you can touch the screws, then it goes lightly.

For two years he must have managed it ...

I have a question about the tightening torques of the yoke and the caliper on the rear axle in Skoda Rapid from 2016 1.2 TSI 110km?

The article is about loosening screws.
The parameters you are asking for are in the service manual.
In my case, the yoke bolts were on blue glue - a nightmare.