Build or Buy Metal Detector: Comparing Allegro's PLN 150 Options, Schemes & Hobby Treasure Hunting

Hello, as in the topic. What do you think about these detectors from allegro up to PLN 150? Will I build something better in terms of such money? What kind of scheme, detector do you recommend? It is not meant to be a professional tool for making money only hobby equipment for searching for "treasures" eg at the seaside, in the sand. He would have to distinguish between noble metals and, for example, bottle caps from and that cars from the nearby parking lot would not .

If you are interested in this, I have a schematic of quite a good detector. And by the way I have a detector for PLN 30, but this is a total lime tree.

No 30zl is an exaggeration of , so much the etched plate can cost, but it is not assessed in total devices at a price because sometimes it is so that cheap solutions are better than the more expensive ones. I remember that in PE, there used to be a schematic of the microprocessor detector. And I used to start assembling a detector on discrete elements, but I do not know how much it was worth. I am looking for something proven and with decent parameters. If yours is good enough, then start a schematic, but I'm also open to other suggestions.

elektrit wrote:

If you mean these MD or Jabla then I do not recommend it.

Jabel if it's solid - it's not bad! there is no distinction between metals but
on military equipment is very good! if you are not looking for very cluttered terrain. There are several companies that simple pulse detectors on the basis of all-available old as the world of construction sell in the price of 700 and they are not
no better than the mentioned apple. Normal detector with discrimination - i.e. no toy can be bought at a price of about PLN 550, can be used for PLN 300-400. I can not afford cheaper unless you do it yourself. However, construct a decent detector with effective discrimination unless it is expensive It's a bit complicated - without any experience in building some more complex electronic circuits, the construction of such a detector is a difficult thing. In addition, you should have equipment such as a frequency meter and oscilloscope - preferably two-channel and as I mentioned a lot of enthusiasm and a lot of experience in constructing various devices. I advise beginners not to get on the construction of such a detector. And a good impulse detector can be done for a few dozen zlotys - but unfortunately there is no discrimination in it.

This microprocessor detector - it's lime! overflow of content over the form - the microcontroller does not overwork there - it replaces the two 555 type outlets, the funniest thing is that simultaneously with the microcontroller there are old wz. operational remembering the king of the so-called external compensation, the constructor did not even want to replace these "dinosaurs" with some modern cubes. If someone wants to do so. impulse - let me read my posts in a few of them I gave the lead for pulse detector with good performance, 100% tested and assembled from popular components.

Greetings

I do not want to look for scrap metal. My point is to distinguish precious or precious metals from ordinary scrap. Tenderness could also be not too bad. I have experience in building layouts, but I have never made the detector, come once. To sum up, I am looking for a scheme with discrimination, tested and preferably as if the person who built it could not write something about it, because truthfully I did not have any detector in my hand.

Added after 1 [hours]:

Now I think so that we do not think about the same microprocessor detector. The one about which I wrote was from the EP, not EP, PE do not produce anymore. That detector was on prock but had discriminations on the led and additionally some buttons, there were no ops. Maybe I exaggerate a bit with this discrimination. Maybe some really good detector without discrimination? Or maybe the PE? Only where to get the feed?

hehe Such discrimination on led diodes with real discrimination has nothing to do, you have to distinguish discrimination from the distinction between and quite poor discrimination. If you want to make a detector yourself with effective discrimination - then build yourself All1 - it's on the electrode I recommend it to you for the simple reason it has a whole lot of documentation and descriptions, which greatly simplifies the matter.

Ps.I do not know how these new armands but those with whom I had the opportunity to podreptać a bit (discoverer, prospector) were very average, especially the latter - prospector is worth mentioning that cost about 1000 PLN and performance had such as cheap western beaches (such for 500-600 PLN ) such as Garret ACE150 or Bounty Hunter Tracker4 / Quick Silver

Is this All1 quite good? My friend telemah, you used to recommend an impulse detector, what can you say about it? And I'm looking for Alla1.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

And besides, I have a two-channel oscilloscope, and I think that frequency is also calculated from it.

Hello.
A few years ago, I made several copies of the "magnum" detector, an old construction - but quite effective.
The problems were with the coil - only templates and accuracy gave effect.
So watch out for the coils.
Greetings .

This impulse detector which I recommended has very good performance, good ranges in the ground, a lot of sensitivity to small objects - which is rare in impulse detectors, it is easy to tune and stable - what more and in addition it is simple in construction when it is from new proven elements it moves from the so-called kopa - its documentation is on the LUCASLAB website. I also have other PCBs reduced to it with thicker paths, even such a thickened one has the same advantages - the paths are thicker and less digestive - and the detector on the new PCB works the same as on the old one.

As for All1, this is a much more difficult construction, the most work is with tuning and balancing the probe, but its construction is not too problematic or difficult - because as I said in the network there are literally tons of descriptions and photo guides, you should also be able to .

I think I will do it, I will start with impulse and see what it is with. Probably in the course of searching something will start missing (I do not know it yet), so once I know what I will build a more professional construction. If you have it, you can throw other tile patterns into it or whatever you have.

patryk-84a wrote:

Is this All1 quite good?

It's quite good, but it's a dynamic detector, which is quite problematic for a beginner, moreover, it is very difficult and tedious to perform and align the probe independently. There are two masters here who have a lot of knowledge on this subject - Elektronik and Colektor (I guess that's the way it is written, it's All, that is the constructor). I recommend the pulse detector described in the forum with "PE", Sandbanks clone, works immediately with the correct assembly, the problem lies in acquiring one transistor - KP103Ż. Or a more advanced design distinguishing Fisher555 or its modification "Salamandra". Although on the other hand, ready-made "Smętki" are not expensive.

I think I used to start building this pulse PE, but I stopped because of the lack of a transistor. In the electronics store, they could not advise me anything, and I did not have access to the net. Somewhere to me this whole built-in circuit disappeared (only the transistor was missing), even the probe was already done. I will take this impulse from LUCASLAB for probably the most popular elements.

patryk-84a wrote:

I think I used to start building this pulse PE, but I stopped because of the transistor's lack. In the electronics store, they could not advise me anything, and I did not have access to the net. Somewhere to me this whole built-in circuit disappeared (only the transistor was missing), even the probe was already done. I will take this impulse from LUCASLAB for probably the most popular elements.

If you want, I can send you some pieces of this KP103Ż I have somewhere a few of the scrapped Soviet equipment but as I said, I strongly recommend the pulse from "Lucaslab" it is according to me the best impulse detector that will easily put any amateur - and you can buy parts in every store. If you want this modified PCB I will send you an e-mail - it is in a large resolution in JPG, of course I will give you the dimensions of the tile just put it in some text editor and set the dimensions of the printout, you can use the originals. tiles but it is larger and has thinner path through which the plate digests longer because the etchant must digest more copper. The LF357 operational gain is used in this detector - but it can be replaced by another high-gain op. - I put, for example, LF356 and it's ok, in another I put OP07 and it was great too! both op-amps are cheap and generally available.
You can even throw in the popular TL081 or uA741, but the detector's range and sensitivity to small items will drop slightly.
I have already built 3 such detectors and everybody is flying to this day.

If you had any problems during construction, it's a bold move

Kol.Robokop

What I am proposing is the one there (n-th) transformation of sandbanks
simply modern elements were used there, removed these atypical FETs, only one N-feta was left (popular BF245)
The inverter has been slightly modified and a few other minor modifications - a good effect has been achieved - the original sandbanks do not reach its heels! I know because I built it too. Besides, if I think that someone had to look for LM709 Ma501 systems these days, etc .. then I sincerely sympathize - these monuments are probably the easiest to find in
some antique shop

As for the salamanders or fisher - I think they are more complicated than All1 - because there are fewer documentation and descriptions, fewer people built them. Added to this are operational amplifiers from the CA family that are not so easy to get! And All1 is in a simplified version on a single-sided straight board, the only problem (it is not such a big problem) is to build the probe itself because it has to be tuned in resonance to the frequency response then it should be balanced by monitoring the voltage (and shape of voltage) unbalance with an oscilloscope. Therefore, I think that due to the innumerable number of elaborate and the number of constructors - amateurs counted in thick hundreds, All1 is the simplest VLF / TR detector to be assembled.

Ps.Salamandra and F55 are basically the same! these are static detectors
nowadays they are used to search for large military objects, and to a limited extent to the location of underground installations, and when it comes to detectors focused on minor finds and universal
dynamic detectors are absolutely dominant - mainly due to their numerous advantages - m.in. faster terrain searching, easier operation and running of the detector, slightly more effective discrimination and much greater sensitivity to small objects from non-ferrous metals

KP103Ż was used in Ruby 707 to 1974 in block Y1. in Impulsowki it was used as a substitute, because there were no other transistors with the p-channel in our country.
For those interested, I can give the KP103Ż parameters, maybe they will find some equivalent.

Instead of KP103ż you can give:

2N3820
J176

they will come because I used to check it myself.

However, there is no point in having fun in orig. sandbanks if he is his
a heavily improved version on contemporary popular components.

I give this diagram along with the description.

What do you think about the detector colleague Świętoszek?



LIST OF ELEMENTS

The use of LM317 instead of REG1117A is acceptable, but it should be taken into account that the detector will work worse. When the battery runs out a little, the detector may not be stable and frequent sensitivity adjustments will be necessary.
The use of 1N4148 diode in place of 1N4937 is also not recommended (although it is perfectly acceptable). In the initial phase it will not be noticeable, however, with longer detector operation it has little effect on its stability.

Resistors:
R1 110
R2 750
R3 47K
R4 47K
R5 15K
R6 4K7
R7 3K3
R8 68K
R9 4K7
R10 68K
R11 150
R12 680
R13 omitted
R14 omitted
R15 1k5
R16 omitted
R17 470
R18 680
R19 10K
R20 330
R21 820
R22 47K
R23 220
R24 1K
R25 1M5
R26 51K
R27 51K
R28 2K2
R29 2K2
R30 18K
R31 8K2
R32 470K
R33 68K

Potentiometers:
VR1 25K assembly
VR2 50K Sensitivity
VR3 1K Volume
VR4 5K Reset the microammeter pointer
VR5 4.7k Sensitivity

capacitors:

C1 1 uF tantalum 35V
C2 10 uF tantalum 10V
C3 10 uF tantalum 10V
C4 10uF tantalum 25V
C5 100 uF electrolyte 25V
C6 1 uF tantalum 10V
C7 1 uF tantalum 10V
C8 10 uF tantalum 10V
C9 1 uF tantalum 10V
C10 1 uF tantalum 10V
C11 100 nF 63V
C12 10nF 100V
C13 10nF 100V
C14 10nF 100V
C15 1nF 100V
C16 10nF 100V
C17 10nF 100V
C18 10 uF tantalum 10V
C19 220 pF
C20 10nF 100V
C21 10nF 100V
C22 220 pF
C23 omitted
C24 omitted
C25 100 nF 63V
C26 100 nF 63V
C27 22 uF electrolyte 63V
C28 100 nF 63V
C29 10nF 100V
C30 220nF 100V
C31 10 uF tantalum 10V
C32 omitted
C33 10uF tantalum 10V
C34 470uF Electrolyte 10V

LEDs:
D1 1N4937 (High Speed diode)
D2 1N4937 (High Speed diode)
D3 1N4148 or 1N914
D4 1N4148 or 1N914
D5 1N4148 or 1N914
D6 1N4148 or 1N914
D7 1N4148 or 1N914
D8 1N4148 or 1N914

systems:
IC1 REG-1117A in the housing "SOT-223") or LM317
IC2 LT1054-CN8 - 8 pin or ICL7660
IC3 78L05 T0-92
IC4 79L05 T0-92
IC5 555 8 pin (you can use the C-mos version)
IC6 555 8 pin (you can use the C-mos version)
IC7 555 8 pin (you can use the C-mos version)
IC8 555 8 pin (you can use the C-mos version)
IC9 TL081 or TL071 8 pin
IC10 TL081 or TL071 8 pin
IC11 555 8 pin (you can use the C-mos version)

transistors:
Q1 IRF840
Q2 omitted
Q3 2SK30A or 2N3819 or BF245
Q4 2N4125 PNP transistor or other good PNP (e.g. BC416 Philips)

Other:
M1 microammeter with scale up to 200 microamper - pointer meter (or 100 uA or 50 uA, but then R31 should be changed)
SPKR loudspeaker or headphones
LI Poll
BI battery (accumulator) 12V 1.2 AH. The battery must be above 10.5 V !!! You can use, for example, combined R20 batteries, but a rechargeable battery is recommended

What was suggested by Col. Świętokrzyski is if my eyes are not confused by any changes of Mark Stewart's impulse, in this case probably PULSE2 probably matched by a certain cloud, this structure (with very little cosmetic changes) is described in the DIY section in the subject of "Detector for 50 zlotys" You can let go of curiosity I made it not so long - ranges are very average, and the tuning itself was solved in a quite "painless" way. I have already written where a complete description of the good PI type detector is available. add that impulse detectors are manufactured in Poland to this day
folded by almost identical documentation - they differ only with printed boards and that the construction is successful, which is why it was successfully made by several Polish craftsmen.

Ok, I will ask for your plate: patryk-84a (at) o2.pl

Added after 1 [minutes]:

I could design a tile myself, but it's a waste of time if someone else already did .

The tile has always been for this project but I modified it significantly to save on the laminate and and work
I sent you everything you need. Now I'm making progress in the construction of your detector

Civilization garbage can effectively discourage searches using a pulse detector.
Telemah is right, it's a great detector, but I'm only suited to a forest where there is not too much garbage, and there is a chance to hit something thicker.
I know a friend who deals amazing things with this equipment, but everything in XXL size, with scallops and other small items has a problem.
I will advise you that you can use a tiny probe, you can, but still, to find a 5gr you need to move at a sluggish pace and the range for these 5 grams will be very mikrusny.
Dynamic detector is created for finding small objects made of non-ferrous metals, and it is not such a difficult art to use this detector.
And the probe, the fact requires patience and a few hours of work with breaks, but after the construction will only be joy alone, unlike PI with which disappointment and dissatisfaction will come.
If you have measuring equipment, you do not risk anything, even if something will not work for you, there are many who would like to help.
I greet and encourage you to more demanding challenges

there is such a store and in it the equivalent of jabla but for PLN 47.99 gold, with delivery of 61.09, the dude one also has a pretty walk is like apple, maybe even a bit better.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

detector and store

Added after 2 [minutes]:

detector

Hello.
It was really a long time.
Templates I had made for winding the coils - the worse is of course the one in
shaped ?.
After winding it was immediately covered with resin on the template.
And shielding.
I first made coils in the desk room - mistake - the desk has a metal skeleton.
Only in a large room on the wooden table did it - as it were.
And the oscilloscope is very useful.
The detector is ok - fun with coils less pleasant.
Greetings.

Hello.
I forgot to write about the monitor - it influenced me.
Theoretically - a small coil should be moved slightly in relation to ?.
So what (how to say) in a big coil.
But - it all depends on the symmetry of the large coil.
You must look for a place - for this oscilloscope is useful.
Do you have a break on the screen?
I made the screen winding a lot of foil from the TVSAT concentrator.
Not everyone was suitable - I came across such a not alu.
And then with braided line (the second screen on the concentrate) I wrapped and poured the whole once again with resin.
A rigid and tight coil is created.
That's quite a long time and I do not even have a pattern anymore.
I even made a plate - one - not two.
But somehow I got bored.
Greetings.