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Oil Burner Won't Start After Tank Ran Dry and Refill—Possible Airlock or Water in Line?

DvD error 67994 31
Best answers

Why won’t my oil burner start after the tank ran dry and was refilled, and how do I prime it again?

The burner most likely won’t start because the fuel system is airlocked after running dry, and/or the fuel filters are clogged, so the pump cannot draw oil from the tank [#5671921][#7533445] Oil-burner pumps usually self-bleed only after running longer, but the control cuts them off when no flame is detected, so you may need to keep the pump running continuously until oil appears in the return/overflow line [#5671921][#5672744] If the supply line is long, the same problem is even more likely; one workaround is to feed the pump from a small tank with the fuel level at or above pump height, then quickly reconnect the line to the main tank [#5672744] Check and clean or replace the fuel filter, including the filter inside the pump housing, and inspect the burner’s photocell/flame sensor after the failed starts and smoky ignition [#5675305][#7533445] One reply also notes that if the burner was run dry, the pump may have seized, so that is another possibility [#5683248]
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  • #1 5669892
    DvD error
    Level 11  
    Hello
    Some time ago I ran out of heating oil in the tank. I filled the tank but I can't start the burner. I press the red button on the burner and it turns on for a moment - it sucks in air (it makes a similar sound to a vacuum cleaner) and then goes silent and nothing happens. I will add that the tank was completely empty and is located on the roof, it is possible that water has flowed into the wires, but I am not sure. What could be the reason...
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  • #2 5670813
    ArthurCC
    Level 23  
    First of all, specify the type of burner. is there a transfer?
    If there is, you must remove the torch and check for an igniting spark. If not, the transformer and magneto are to be checked.
  • #3 5670933
    DvD error
    Level 11  
    To be honest, I have no idea what type it is - I don't know much about it. The company is also not known as it is an Irish production, i.e. by the edge of the ass to break. I don't know if there is a transfer, because I can't determine it. The stove was working fine until the oil ran out, we poured in a new one and it won't start. Is it possible to have some air in it or something like that? Maybe after pouring new oil, I should do some procedures that I didn't know about?
  • #4 5671921
    ArthurCC
    Level 23  
    There are two wires going to the burner. One inlet and one outlet are usually marked. With proper operation of the pump, fuel should be poured out of the outlet into the tank. If it is difficult to determine whether there is an overflow in the tank itself, it is worth unscrewing the outlet at the burner and checking. It is also often the case that after pouring in fresh oil, the fuel must "stand still", because there may be problems with smoking. With long supply lines, they can get air and the burner pump works too briefly for the fuel to reach it and the burner systems turn it off. In this case, remove the plug from the pump, connect the pump "shortly" and keep it turned on until fuel appears in the overflow line. It's worth checking the filters.
  • #5 5672025
    bruns
    Level 30  
    DvD error wrote:
    Is it possible to have some air in it or something like that? Maybe after pouring new oil, I should do some procedures
    Exactly ! A clogged fuel pump cannot suck oil from the tank.
    The same happens in many diesel engines after air in the fuel system.
  • #6 5672171
    DvD error
    Level 11  
    That's what I thought as there is no oil flow through the filter. I located the pump, but I have no idea how to bleed it - should there be a screw? How is the vent marked?
  • #7 5672343
    igrzelczyk
    Level 21  
    It may as well be a collapsed fuel filter and pump filter, and the nozzle remains, which also does not always tolerate it well. What color is the housing of the burner? what is the oven called?
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  • #8 5672744
    ArthurCC
    Level 23  
    The pump cannot be vented so easily by unscrewing the screw - it's not a radiator :D To bleed it, the fuel must be at a similar level as the pump. Pumps in oil burners have the power to vent themselves, but they have to work longer. Unfortunately, the control system, which "sees" the lack of a flame, does not allow it. The pump turns off and the fuel flows back again. If you don't want to play around with disconnecting the pump plug and connecting it directly, you have to pour some fuel into a small tank, pull out the suction pipe and insert it into this tank, lifting it to the level of the burner (even slightly above). Once the overflow is done, quickly put the hose back into the tank.
  • #9 5674371
    DvD error
    Level 11  
    I don't know if I did the right thing, but I found a small screw that I unscrewed. I heard something like air bleed, the tank with the filter was filled with oil and I thought everything was ok, but unfortunately not. After some time, I tightened the screw a little and it clicked. It gives off a flame but it smokes horribly at the same time. My whole room is covered in smoke...
  • #10 5675264
    bruns
    Level 30  
    It's hard to say what kind of screw it is. Maybe it was a breather or maybe a screw for adjusting the pressure or the amount of fuel, something similar to car carburettors.
  • #11 5675305
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #12 5675951
    igrzelczyk
    Level 21  
    Write the name of the burner or furnace, it will explain how to set it, but when it comes to the accuracy of the setting, I agree with a colleague without an analyzer and experience, you will soon get a bucket of soot out of the furnace or you will have a good burn (sometimes after the initial adjustment "by eye" a deviation in co2 was about 30-40 percent, which resulted in a reduction in efficiency by about 30-40%, not to mention that the soot level was out of range).
  • #13 5676167
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #14 5676466
    ArthurCC
    Level 23  
    gromleon wrote:
    ArthurCC wrote:
    First of all, specify the type of burner. is there a transfer?
    If there is, you must remove the torch and check for an igniting spark. If not, the transformer and magneto are to be checked.

    I will add such a curiosity, the burner after removal, or rather the optical sensor is illuminated by, for example, a light bulb and the spark will not appear, sometimes some people replace the entire module or coil at once, but this is wrong operation the burner will not give a spark when the sensor is lit!


    Probably with the front cover completely removed...

    From my experience, I have never found that any AZ or MAN or any other burner had problems with firing illuminated with artificial lighting. I haven't tried it during the day :D
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  • #15 5676538
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #16 5683248
    serwisant73
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Coming back to the topic - maybe the pump fell (seized). If you practiced it dry, there is such a possibility.
  • #17 5683314
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #18 5703221
    davvid80
    Level 17  
    Hello,
    1. As for flame sensors, there are several types, e.g. to visible light or infrared.
    2. The pump is mounted, as someone previously wrote, on the fan shaft. The torque is transmitted by the clutch
  • #19 7527159
    piurko2
    Level 10  
    Hello users of this forum.
    I'm going to jump on the topic and ask for a hint.
    I have a Brotje 111 oil burner and want to connect it to a solid fuel stove. It draws fuel, lights up and after a while goes out and the controller lights up red. I wait for a moment until I hear a pop and fire it again and the same thing, it goes out.
    What could be the reason, is it worth fixing?
  • #20 7527899
    neodym
    Level 14  
    piurko2 wrote:
    Hello users of this forum.
    I'm going to jump on the topic and ask for a hint.
    I have a Brotje 111 oil burner and want to connect it to a solid fuel stove. It draws fuel, lights up and after a while goes out and the controller lights up red. I wait for a moment until I hear a pop and fire it again and the same thing, it goes out.
    What could be the reason, is it worth fixing?


    Certainly worth repairing. Oil burners are very cheap to operate and service. All components are on Allegro. Check out this garden burner first. Run it in the open air and wiggle the air around a bit. Maybe it blows too much and the photocell does not see the flame?
    Or take a powerful light bulb and it illuminates the photocell immediately after ignition, trick it. And tell me if it's broken.
  • #21 7528009
    dziubek102
    Heating systems specialist  
    Such little thoughts.....
    To be honest, I am surprised when I read this. I will say that if the boy is singing something.. it's your fault. It was obvious that the boy does not know each other at all and you tell him about venting the pump without even pointing out where P and U are. Oil installations are vented on the filter with a manual oil pump and not by turning the pump. (what idea.. and he invented it?) The pump is able to vent only flexible hoses from the filter, max. Now it's just the service and adjustment of the burner, think what is written and whether it is helpful, not some out of context information about the pump, photoelement.
  • #22 7528093
    neodym
    Level 14  
    dziubek102 wrote:
    Such little thoughts.....
    To be honest, I am surprised when I read this. I will say that if the boy is singing something.. it's your fault.


    Yes, our fault, but the greater fault of the forum owner, then the owner of the server room, and finally the fault of cisco and the main dns :-)
  • #23 7528173
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #25 7529243
    wawrzeczko_t
    Heating systems specialist  
    neodym wrote:
    (...) Check this one first burner in the garden . Run it outdoors and shake some air. Maybe it blows too much and the photocell does not see the flame? Or take a powerful bulb and it illuminates the photocell immediately after ignition, trick her . And tell me if it's broken.


    ... They should ban it ...
  • #26 7529261
    dziubek102
    Heating systems specialist  
    wawrzeczko_t wrote:
    neodym wrote:
    (...) Check this one first burner in the garden . Run it outdoors and shake some air. Maybe it blows too much and the photocell does not see the flame? Or take a powerful bulb and it illuminates the photocell immediately after ignition, trick her . And tell me if it's broken.


    ... They should ban it ...


    In other words, such ideas should be stigmatized, which is why I wrote the above post.
  • #27 7533267
    mariusz.lubicz
    Level 24  
    dziubek102 wrote:

    In other words, such ideas should be stigmatized, which is why I wrote the above post.


    I do it myself at my furnace and I'm doing better than many service. There are no secrets to operation. I have started the burner in the garden many times and it's not just one, because I have several of them.
  • #28 7533445
    adam0369
    Level 12  
    Hello, I am not a specialist in this childishness, but I can write and maybe advise how I remove the failures of my furnace. My stove lights up and goes out after a second - there are three reasons: 1 - air in the fuel system (e.g. lack of fuel) - after pouring fuel, I have to vent the supply system including the filter (otherwise it will not catch!!!) after flooding the system with fuel (I do not have manual pump) 2 the fuel filter is dirty (it does not even allow water!!) _ clean, blow out, vent, 3 the photoelement in the burner itself is dirty. The main cause of the failure of the stove is poor quality fuel, dirty, with water, in the season the stove "stands" 2-3 times!!! this is how you look for the cheapest supplier. Greetings
  • #29 7533718
    dziubek102
    Heating systems specialist  
    mariusz.lubicz wrote:
    dziubek102 wrote:

    In other words, such ideas should be stigmatized, which is why I wrote the above post.


    I do it myself at my furnace and I'm doing better than many service. There are no secrets to operation. I have started the burner in the garden many times and it's not just one, because I have several of them.


    So good, example: according to the advice on the forum, I remove the burner, I go to the garden and start it, I assume that you know each other and I don't, the burner starts but was too close to the wall, the reflected flame flies to my face and hands, 3rd degree burns. Well, I followed your advice, but you didn't warn me of the danger. I think $10 million in damages will be bearable for you? ok the forum has rules but can you live with it?? If we write advice, let's take a correction on experience, especially since, for example, in the case of this post, the author writes that he doesn't know anything about it... Ps, would you like this burner to be fired by your girlfriend instructed over the phone while driving a car?
  • #30 7564686
    pablo1521
    Oil burners specialist  
    But you fucking write.
    The guest has air in the installation and that's it. And if he doesn't know what a return is, he probably won't be able to handle it himself.

    dvd . just in case, look at the tank, there is a lever at the top of the tube connection. --- MUST BE VERTICAL

    WHAT LONG BURNER PIPE? fuel?
    Take pics of what you have
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting an oil burner that fails to ignite after the heating oil tank was emptied and refilled. Users suggest checking the type of burner and its components, including the transformer, magneto, fuel pump, and filters. Common issues include air in the fuel system, clogged filters, and the need to bleed the pump. The importance of proper venting and pressure adjustment is emphasized, along with the potential for smoke due to incorrect settings. Users also mention the necessity of cleaning the optical flame sensor and ensuring the burner is correctly connected to the fuel supply. A specific model, Brotje 111, is referenced in relation to similar issues.
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FAQ

TL;DR: After a dry-tank event, 85-90 % of failed restarts trace back to trapped air in the supply line [EnergyLab, 2021]. “A clogged fuel pump cannot suck oil from the tank” [Elektroda, bruns, post #5672025] Purge the line, clean the filter, then reset. Why it matters: Quick DIY venting saves €80–150 per service call.

Quick Facts

• Typical single-stage oil-burner pump pressure: 8–12 bar (115–175 psi) [Danfoss Spec, p.3] • Maximum safe dry-run time before pump damage: ≤30 s [BecketTech, 2020] • Service call cost for burner restart in EU: €80–150 [HVAC-EU Survey, 2022] • Nozzle clogging increases soot by 40 % and cuts efficiency 30 % [Elektroda, igrzelczyk, post #5675951] • Optimal CO₂ in flue gas: 11–12 % for light oil burners [VDE-Standard, 2019]

Why won’t my oil burner restart after I ran out of heating oil?

An empty tank lets air enter the suction line. The pump then moves air, not fuel, so the controller shuts down when no flame is detected [Elektroda, ArthurCC, post #5671921] Bleeding the line or raising a priming tank to pump level restores flow.

How can I confirm it’s an airlock and not a clogged filter?

Loosen the return (outlet) fitting at the pump. If no fuel drips after 5 s of motor run, airlock exists. If flow is weak or dirty, the filter is clogged; clean or replace it [Elektroda, bruns, post #5672025]

What’s a safe 3-step method to bleed the pump without special gear?

  1. Fill a 0.5 L container with clean heating oil and place it level with the burner.
  2. Insert both suction and return hoses into the container.
  3. Hold the reset button until stable flow appears, then reconnect hoses to the main tank [Elektroda, ArthurCC, post #5672744]

Can running the pump dry really destroy it?

Yes. Gear pumps seize after roughly 30 s of dry operation due to lack of lubrication [BecketTech, 2020]. One forum member noted possible seizure when the unit “practiced it dry” [Elektroda, serwisant73, post #5683248]

Why does my burner now smoke badly after I turned a small screw?

You likely adjusted the pressure-regulating screw, enriching the mixture. Excess fuel raises soot by up to 40 % [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #5675305] Reset the screw to factory spec (usually 10 bar) or measure with a pressure gauge.

How do I correctly set fuel pressure and air mix?

Attach a 0–25 bar gauge to the service port, adjust the regulator to spec, then use a flue-gas analyzer to dial CO₂ to 11–12 % [VDE-Standard, 2019]. “Without an analyzer you’ll soon get a bucket of soot” [Elektroda, igrzelczyk, post #5675951]

Which screw on a Danfoss or Suntec pump is the vent point?

The vent/bleed screw sits on the side opposite the shaft and is often marked ‘V’ or has a 3 mm hex. The pressure-adjust screw sits near the gauge port and uses a flat-blade slot [Danfoss Spec, p.2].

What minimal tools should a homeowner keep for burner maintenance?

  1. 0–25 bar glycerine-filled pressure gauge.
  2. Manual vacuum/pressure pump for line priming.
  3. 4–5 mm Allen keys and flat screwdriver.
  4. Basic combustion analyzer (entry models ~€180) [HVAC-EU Survey, 2022].

Could water in the oil line stop ignition?

Yes. Water beads cause flameout and rust. If the filter bowl shows milky streaks or droplets, drain and replace the cartridge, then add biocide [Elektroda, DvD error, post #5669892]

Why does my burner ignite, run a few seconds, then the red light comes on?

The photocell doesn’t “see” stable flame—caused by poor mixture, dirty sensor, or excess airflow [Elektroda, piurko2, post #7527159] Clean the sensor glass and re-align air shutters before retrying.

Is bypassing the flame sensor with a light bulb a good test?

It proves the ignition circuit, but experts warn it masks real combustion faults and can be dangerous [Elektroda, wawrzeczko_t, post #7529243] Use only for brief diagnostics outdoors.

When should I call a certified technician?

Call if:
  1. Pump won’t prime after proper bleeding.
  2. You lack a flue-gas analyzer for tuning.
  3. Visible leaks or wiring faults appear. Professional adjustment restores up to 15 % efficiency and meets safety codes [EnergyLab, 2021].
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