Buderus Logano G124 Ignition: Switching Off Every Few Days - Replaced Ionization Electrode & More

I have a problem with switching off the stove every few days - "1 bla blaster".
The furnace is about 8 years old. I replaced the ionization electrode, the "candle" nozzle is cleared, the spark sparkler. When I press the orange button it starts correctly. Observation through the "window" on the ignition indicates that everything should be ok. So it takes 2-3 days and stop again.
The furnace has only one non-modulated burner, unless it has a chimney draft sensor (I did not find any traces of such a device or wires to it). Boiler and tank temperature sensors work efficiently. Because this happens every few days, I can not determine the cause for it. After the emergency start, it starts normally.
Is there anything that can stop this work without completely damaging something?
Is it possible to change the software of the controller consisting in programming the second ignition attempt, after the failed first?

The previous threads in this topic have already been read.
I know that there are real experienced professionals here - I count on helpful advice.

HELLO
Sometimes it happens to damage the burner (it's the cube on which you reset failures) advised me to call the service because this time may not be cheaper "guessing" and the machine satronika to buy and substitute for the prube is a little too expensive (if you actually did well what you wrote ). maybe one of my colleagues will have some idea
greetings

Hello, I know this pain because I once again suffered this problem but at home I recently replaced the ignition electrode and already after the case. A year ago it was replaced with ionization, so I hope that the problem will disappear longer. The cost of the 10euro ignition electrode is worth a try. As for the burner control machine, the service man forged it at the last visit. I had Satronic TFI 812.2 Mod.10 and he put in DKG972 mod 21 and I do not know if he did not make me in a horse because he hit 500 PLN and I saw on the net that the one I had previously costs PLN 260 ( PRICE LIST ). The sum sum sum old lies in the closet and I think that it is still working and the fault passed after replacing the ionization electrode. If you find somewhere cheap a new tai machine like yours at a reasonable price then you can buy it. Replacement is just unscrewing one sow.

My stove is the Buderus G124X with the Ecomatic 2000 controller HS2102 SO.

Hello
gentlemen, note! I do not recommend the vending machines (such as you have) and PLN 260 is not a real price for this satronika (unless net + rebate)
greetings
mariusz

I had the same problem. It seemed to me that everything was working, and yet the burner did not always want to catch fire. The ignition system is composed of such simple elements that there is nothing to break.
The ignition electrode may break off, the insulator may break and pierce - then an exchange is necessary. It may also get dirty - then you just need to clean it.
Ionisation electrode similarly - most often it is enough to clean. Besides, she works at a relatively low voltage.
The ignition burner nozzle may become dirty - it is enough to clean it and recalibrate with a drill bit of 0.47-0.5mm.
It may be defective Satronic, then it needs to be replaced, but it is the last resort.
In my case, it turned out that the spark ignited in the wrong place of the stream of gas flowing through the openings of the ignition burner. If the rich gas-air mixture is too rich, ignition does not always occur. It helps to bend the ignition electrode or better turn the ring with the holes that the gas exits. The spark should go not to the main stream of gas, but to its edge.

Soloo wrote:

.... As for the firefighter, it was my last minute visit. I had Satronic TFI 812.2 Mod.10 and he put in DKG972 mod 21 and I do not know if he did not make me in a horse because he hit 500 PLN and I saw on the net that what I had previously cost 260 PLN ....

The TFI 812.2 mod 10 analogue machine can be replaced with the DKG972 mod 21 digital automat. All you need to do is look closely at the technical card and follow the manufacturer's instructions. The difference between them: an analogue - a numeric and DKG has an additional function. Product technical sheet pdf and current price list available at www.systemgaz.com.pl/Satronic-index.htm
Of course, the analog is cheaper and probably the manufacturer ends the production of analogues. The price of this electrode is shocking.

greetings

At the end of last season, the stove had a problem with firing and sometimes the message "BLA burner" appeared. The previous case solved the sweep and blowing of the burner with a compressor. This time I did the same and the stove does not want to fire.
What could I do wrong?
It's all done so that it can not be otherwise then connect.
It looks as if the ignition burner did not start at all. After switching on, the operation of the ionization electrode is heard, the valve opening is audible but the ionisation electrode is heard (louder and louder) and the message BURNER BURNER appears.
Which of the electrodes is ionizing and which is the ignition ??

El. ionization - you do not hear it . What you hear is rather an ignition spark. Check if there is gas and do you sometimes turn the plug in the 230V boiler's power socket (no earthing?!)

The change of polarity is gone because I did not bother with the power supply. Grounding should also stay the same. It must be something else.

Hello
I will connect to the topic. The furnace starts correctly. But due to the fact that there are now warm days, it is turned off during the day. And after switching on, when it reaches the set temperature, it will turn off several times to switch on after a while. And after reaching the temperature, it is already working properly.
What could cause the stove to shut down?

How does it turn off? Getting stuck? If so, what error pops up on the display?

There is no error because the HS2101 control has no display. There is also no burner error. It simply attaches again ...

So the boiler temp thermostat to check / replace. The burner interlock can also be triggered by the chimney draft decay sensor (if present). Without a display it will be difficult to locate the error.

Thanks for your interest in my topic. The furnace has no chimney draft sensor. The thermostat was left, but for the time being the oven is starting correctly - I will be watching.
But I still have a few questions:
- what may be the reason for burning in the boiler room?
- the furnace burns the gas to give soot - the soot is under the outlet pipe from the stove, on the floor?
- what should be the height of the flame above the burner, shape, color? (if it can be described)
Chimney draft checked - approx. 3m3 / h.
Factory setting of gas pressure.

No chimney sweep sensor - this is a mistake. The burning you can feel is perhaps chad (generally odorless), and soot burning. And soot in the G124X boiler is really a bad sign. The reason may be an incorrect draft (the chimney draft is given in Pa and not in m3 / h) or the lack of air needed to burn the gas in the boiler (no burst to the boiler room?!). I suggest you turn off the boiler and call for some kumatego service technician.

Hello!
I would like to connect to the topic ...
I have Buderus cast iron 124L with the simplest automation with Satronik 812.2 and it started to turn off, the spark appears, but the gas does not let go and it blocks (the LED lights up) I reset and it surprises ?? !!
He can come and pick a few times
I replaced it with electronic DKG972 mod.21 and at the beginning it looks as good and lime as the same spark and does not release gas
But this driver is flashing like code 16
As I unplugged the thermocouple or this ionization electrode, it probably ignited the furnace then of course turned off and appeared as if the code 14 or 4 on the controller (once it flashes briefly then blinks four times)
I am talking about flashing this indicator under the reset button. Does anyone know and could give the codes ?!
As the stove works normally, it flashes every 6 seconds.

autoas wrote:

Hello!
I would like to connect to the topic ...
I have Buderus cast iron 124L ... I am talking about flashing this indicator under the reset button. Does anyone know and could give the codes ?!

In this situation, please contact an authorized Buderus sales partner. They will run service services (who sells this service), have access to professional literature. No one will write you codes, because this information is reserved for Buderus service technicians. For customers, Buderus has prepared a page with documentation just for them: Buderus instructions library for users http://www.buddoc.mindgroup.pl/

Basically, it's not a Buderus display because I do not have it, but for this Honeywell controller under the front cover with just the "finger" hole to reset
Will try to find a service - bake bought about 8 years ago

If you want to control Honeywell, report to System Gaz 22 812-05-04. Although do not be such an enthusiast because many components used by manufacturers of heating technology are produced for the inclusion of the latter.

Technical Automation Catalog Satronic OEM Honeywell

Model Satronic DKG 972 mod.21 produced exclusively for Buderus and therefore there is no such version in the technical catalogs. The Satronic DKG 972 model 211 is the more expensive digital analogue of the TFI 812 analogue model

Hello
In the documentation for Satronica DKG 972 http://www.herrmann.com.pl/karty/Satronic.htm
error codes are described.
Code 14 - disabling; lack of stabilized flame at the right time (safety time ts);
for mod. 5 - ts = 5s.
for mod.10 - ts = 10s.
However, I have not found documentation for DKG 972 mod.21.
And as for not switching on the main flame, check the ionisation electrode, clean it and check the setting above the burner. I had the same - I moved the electrode minimally while cleaning the burner and bake it after a moment turned off.
It can block the thermostat, possibly incorrect connection of L and N power supply.

You are great!!! Thanks
That would confirm my attempt with this electrode, as I disconnected the furnace after a moment it turned off and the code 14 was flashing
But my spark is, but it does not release gas, and then code 16 appears

Unless I count something bad

Such a secular question, which detects a spark in such a simple system
High voltage goes through one wire and jumps to ground
What should be the distance of these rods, good for the spark
Is there something that recognizes it?

Nothing recognizes whether the spark is or is not. The only thing that controls something is the ionisation electrode that checks the presence of the flame.
According to me, it is not possible to specify the distance of the ignition electrode from the mass rod. It should be suitable for spark flashing and starting flame ignition.

I wonder what determines the inclusion of gas (valve).
Is the quality of the spark analyzed or how the controller analyzes eg the operation of the HV coil to turn on the gas

The starting flame heats the ionisation electrode, causing the uA current flow to the SATRONIC controller, and the controller decides to open the main gas valve.
The quality of the spark is not analyzed, and the controller does not analyze the operation of the HV coil, and how to do it?
I repeat: the only control element is the ionisation electrode checking the presence of the flame, i.e. it must be set so that the flame will heat it, causing the current to flow to the controller.

Of course I understand
For me, the oven does not go out but does not start (sometimes)
I can hear the spark though in appearance some kind of weak (maybe it seems to me only) the power is that the gas pressure sensor works and then there are two valves V1 and V2 on the head and they do not get voltage of course sometimes or get but do not open it yet I have not determined
The worst thing is that when I stand above the stove with the meter it's all OK. and not once in the cold ... and I have to reset and, of course, start

According to me, if you replace the drivers and continue without changes, the reason for not switching on the gas valve may lie in the ionization electrode. The controller does not see a continuous current flow in the electrode and turns off the gas valve.
At the beginning, cleaning the electrode and proper setting in the flame, and if it does not help - it is replaced with a new one.
Finally, call a decent service technician.

Ionization electrode is involved only when a flame or not, and I do not release gas, the ignition goes (clicks), but there is no click of the valve and then it hangs

One more thing, can I get elements that I have marked on the drawing somewhere?


https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/2170659000_1292015755.jpg

Replacement elements can be purchased from Buderus Authorized Trading Partner along with the service. And by the way: you've talked about and you'll come back to APH in Gdańsk or Warsaw, what does it matter? The same prices (in euro), because in this country nothing from this offer is not produced , so pay ... and do not waste ...

I do not know what you spit, but the list of authorized APHs from your region (Lubuskie) is here http://www.buderus.pl/index.php?page_id=3408&action=detail&area_id=6&

Each APH Buderus has "full grazing", so no grace ... somewhere in Świdnik ... what prices do they have in Hong Kong?

You're obviously right ... you should not take things you do not know about, but ... but we're in Poland, I run the website myself, I'm a thinking engineer, and sometimes I have to bury myself
I found something like:
http://www.buderus-in-serwis.pl/palnik_g124.htm
They offer everything, I do not know the price yet, this image which I have previously put in comes from their side, they offer all the parts, we will see ....
Either way, all hints helped me
The stove goes, surprisingly ....... with all my tests and observations ... I changed the spacing on the ignition electrode and that's it
Greetings!