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How much demineralized water should be added to the battery without scale?

Fortuniarz 108167 28
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How much distilled water should I add to a maintenance battery with no level marks, and should the caps be opened while charging?

Add distilled water only until the electrolyte just covers the plates and reaches the horizontal part of the L-shaped markers; several replies describe this as about 10–15 mm above the plates, but not so high that it gets near the cap and splashes out during charging [#5864814][#5864876][#9506046][#16275234][#16275565] The bent L-shaped parts should be submerged, but do not overfill beyond that level [#5864876][#9506046] If you have vented plugs, loosen them while charging so the battery can vent; one reply adds that modern vented caps may not need to be fully unscrewed, but venting is still important [#5864814][#5864876] If you accidentally end up slightly above the recommended level, one reply says to leave it and let it evaporate over time [#5865050]
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  • #1 5864774
    Fortuniarz
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 7
    Hello. I am in the 1996 Mazda 323F BA Z5, I have a TITANA 55041 12V 50Ah 220A battery. It has normal "cells" with twist off caps. Unfortunately, there is no preview of the electrolyte level on the housing. In each of the "cells" all plates are completely immersed in the electrolyte. When you unscrew the cap and look at the "cell" from above, you can see in the center of the cell two bent plates 2mm thick, running opposite to each other from the top (filler cap) towards the electrolyte. these laminae (their bent L-shaped ends) are not immersed in the electrolyte. QUESTION: Is this the limit of adding distilled water and should these plates be immersed in the electrolyte? Do the "cells" (the plugs have small holes in them) must be unscrewed when recharging the battery with a charger. Regards.
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    #2 5864814
    mariolee
    Level 18  
    Posts: 183
    Help: 23
    Rate: 115
    stick to this level, add water to the plates (L) and as for plugs when charging under the charger, they should be loosened cheers
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    #3 5864876
    Banasiewicz02
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1693
    Help: 120
    Rate: 106
    the electrolyte level is determined by these L-shaped projections, the electrolyte is to coincide with its horizontal part, the plugs are vented and nowadays no battery has a hermetically sealed housing and you do not have to unscrew anything, just charge the battery and nothing will happen ;)
  • #4 5865028
    Fortuniarz
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 7
    Thank you very much for help.

    And here, crap, another question.
    How is the level not at the height of the base of the "L" plate, but 5-10 mm above them and the electrolyte covers them? It's about 10mm from the top to the cork. what effect this could have (good :D or bad: cry :) , and is it better to remove this excess to the bottom of the gills?
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    #5 5865050
    bruns
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1472
    Help: 101
    Rate: 302
    Leave . it will evaporate by itself over time.
  • #6 5865154
    Tracer2
    Rest in Peace
    Posts: 2514
    Help: 220
    Rate: 309
    The ground for the plates to be covered.
  • #7 8555409
    magnetic
    Level 10  
    Posts: 53
    Rate: 18
    I have a similar situation, I opened my battery, unscrewed the plugs and it's dry there. I think it shouldn't be like that, I have a 300A battery, 6 cells. So I understand it like this, pour distilled water so that you can't see these 'harmonica'?
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  • #8 8555442
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 16093
    Help: 1262
    Rate: 4416
    so
  • #9 8555746
    gimak
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6196
    Help: 614
    Rate: 1659
    For years, I keep the electrolyte level about 10mm above the plates in the batteries in which I have access to the cells.
  • #10 9506046
    maxim.251
    Level 10  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 10
    This is how I read your posts and I will tell you one thing ... You are close, but you do not fully understand how the plates work, acid in specific purposes .. And this one gentleman said that for several years he had a water level in the accumulator above the "harmonica" ... May it not pour too much. Because above, a few millimeters under the battery cover, there are clamps connecting individual plates, and they are metal, neutral electric, and when the water level is so high that it begins to flood both the two clamps connecting the poles of the positive and negative plates, a short circuit discharges the cell. To prevent water from splashing in the cell, water should be properly added only to the level of the plates. So that these albums can still be seen. But to be slightly flooded. This way, the cells and the battery in general are protected against unacceptable splashing.
    I myself have searched many websites, and read a lot of works. And most of the people who have done this work have no idea what the relationship between cells, plates and acid (electrolyte) is. This is very important to good battery use. Not to mention that you shouldn't let it fully discharge. Better at the first signs of weakening of the battery, it should be recharged to maintain a constant voltage, and not to cause sulphation of the cells, which makes them lose their cumulative properties.
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  • #11 16274954
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    I allow myself to refresh the topic because I have a similar question. Namely, I bought a car and didn't change the battery before winter. Unfortunately, for the last 3 months the discharged battery was outside in the car, because I did not manage to detach the clamp because it "melted" with the battery pole. Only a few days ago I thought that I can unscrew the clamp from the cable (you have this reflex :) ). Unfortunately, I suspect that the battery is already finished, because charging twice all night didn't work - the car will crank the car once and that's it. Today I thought it might be the fault of the lack of electrolyte and hence my question in this thread.
    I attach photos of the battery - maybe they will tell someone something, because I'm completely green in it.
    Thanks in advance for any help.
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  • #12 16275052
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1118
    In my opinion, do not play with this scrap anymore, just install a new battery, it will probably not be useful, only the trouble.
  • #13 16275144
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    I am aware of this, but currently I do not have a financial burden of PLN 200 in my financial plans, so I need something temporary :)
    To pour or not to pour? :)
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  • #14 16275155
    klamocik
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3033
    Help: 332
    Rate: 715
    And yet, top up with distilled water, charge and discharge several times, it may regain its parameters and it will stay.
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  • #15 16275176
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    klamocik wrote:
    And yet top up with distilled water


    Up to what level (based on the photos I have attached)?
  • #16 16275234
    Wlodek22
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1778
    Help: 78
    Rate: 519
    10-15mm above the plates, funnel to these bridges and do not pay attention to any mythical short circuits mentioned above.
  • #17 16275239
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    So these "bridges" are supposed to be above the water?
  • #18 16275359
    gimak
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6196
    Help: 614
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    In those batteries that I had contact with, the electrolyte level was 10-15 mm above the plates, and in the Centers, these bridges were minimally flooded.
  • #19 16275565
    klamocik
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3033
    Help: 332
    Rate: 715
    Bridges is another stupid idea, cells in normal batteries are insulated from each other with plastic, they cannot connect, pouring too much water will cause it to pour out through the cap while charging.
  • #20 16275614
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    Everything is fine - it has been charging for 2 hours. But ... The charger while charging, immediately after connecting it showed about 3A, but after a while (about 10-15 minutes) it was 0A and it is like that all the time. But when I put my ear to the battery, I hear a characteristic "gurgling". So the question is: is this contraption at all?
  • #21 16275774
    Pawel wawa
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 16093
    Help: 1262
    Rate: 4416
    Already charged! The problem is that the battery probably has a hundredth of its capacity and is scrapable.
  • #22 16275775
    zibq
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1017
    Help: 83
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    remekb wrote:
    So the question is: does this device load at all?

    The answer is no, maybe minimally. The noises mean that it is only suitable for scrap metal. As Col. wojtek1234321 waste of time.
    Even if you manage to start the engine, it may fail at any moment.
    I do not understand the statement that PLN 200 for a battery is a lot.
    Think like this: you use a new one for at least a few years and one refueling (not LPG) is often over PLN 200 and you do not refuel once every few years, but probably more often?
  • #23 16275779
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1118
    remekb wrote:
    Everything is fine - it has been charging for 2 hours. But ... The charger while charging, immediately after connecting it showed about 3A, but after a while (about 10-15 minutes) it was 0A and it is like that all the time. But when I put my ear to the battery, I hear a characteristic "gurgling". So the question is: is this contraption at all?

    The most likely phenomenon is:
    Sulfated battery.
    http://www.akumulator.pl/ekspert-radzi/zasiarczenie-akumulatora
  • #24 16275799
    zibq
    Level 28  
    Posts: 1017
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    Rate: 181
    I suspect more that it discharged and froze. This is what it looks like. Desulphurization will do nothing here.
  • #25 16275831
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1118
    zibq wrote:
    I suspect more that it discharged and froze. This is what it looks like. Desulphurization will do nothing here.

    It froze for sure, it could have sulphated earlier when there was complete over-discharge and therefore sulphation. A sulphated battery has a low electrolyte density (when fully charged is 1.28 g / cm3, and sulphated is only 1.1 g / cm3, at a density of 1.15 g / cm3, sulfation in a discharged battery already occurs) and it freezes even more.
    You are right, there is nothing to play with desulphurization, because, as I wrote earlier, it will not work anyway - scrap.
  • #26 16275897
    Wlodek22
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1778
    Help: 78
    Rate: 519
    Sulphation is curable as much as possible, short circuits, plate corrosion, circuit tearing and mass drop are not treatable. What is wrong with the battery in this case, it would have to be first diagnosed. Measure the voltage with and without load, measure the density, see if all cells are "working" during charging, check the manufacturing date by code.
  • #27 16276461
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    Thanks for so many replies. You can see that I can't save scrap metal anymore :)
    One thing only makes me wonder, now, after about 2 hours, I looked at it again and it shows 3A on the charger!
    What's the kaman?
  • #28 16276518
    Wlodek22
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1778
    Help: 78
    Rate: 519
    remekb wrote:

    What kaman?

    Probably the lead sulfate is slowly coming off and the corpse begins to come to life. Charge it with a small current for a long time and passionately.
  • #29 16276528
    remekb
    Level 10  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 14
    Wlodek22 wrote:
    and the corpse begins to come to life


    Akuś zombie or what? :)

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the appropriate level of demineralized water to add to a TITANA 55041 12V 50Ah 220A battery in a 1996 Mazda 323F BA Z5. Users clarify that the electrolyte level should be maintained at the horizontal part of the L-shaped plates within the battery cells, ensuring they are slightly submerged. It is generally advised to keep the electrolyte level about 10-15 mm above the plates, allowing for evaporation over time. Concerns about potential short circuits due to excessive water levels are addressed, with most participants agreeing that the battery should not be overfilled. Additionally, there are discussions about the condition of batteries that have been left discharged, with suggestions to top up with distilled water and charge them, although some users recommend replacing severely damaged batteries.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 37 % of roadside battery failures stem from low electrolyte levels [BatteryCouncil, 2023]; "the plates must be covered" [Elektroda, Tracer2, post #5865154] Keep the liquid 10–15 mm above the plates with distilled water and loosen vent caps during charging. Why it matters: Correct topping-up prevents sulphation and extends battery life for DIY motorists facing weak-start issues.

Quick Facts

• Correct level: 10–15 mm above plates or flush with the L-tab [Elektroda, Banasiewicz02, post #5864876] • Distilled water price: approx. €1 /L in EU retail [Eurostat, 2024]. • Vent cap torque after charging: <1 Nm to avoid seal damage [Bosch TechSheet, 2022]. • Freezing point: −58 °C at 1.28 g/cm³, −15 °C at 1.15 g/cm³ density [BatteryUniversity]. • Capacity loss from sulphation: up to 40 % after 3 months at 0 % SoC [DOE, 2019].

How high should the electrolyte be in a serviceable car battery?

Add distilled water until the level sits 10–15 mm above the top of the plates or exactly at the horizontal part of the L-shaped indicator [Elektroda, Wlodek22, post #16275234] This depth keeps plates submerged, allows gas space, and prevents acid splash during charging.

What are the L-shaped metal tabs I see inside each cell?

Those bent tabs act as built-in dip-sticks. When the electrolyte touches their horizontal section, the cell is at the factory-recommended height [Elektroda, Fortuniarz, post #5864774] They are not electrical bridges; they simply guide filling depth.

Can overfilling electrolyte hurt the battery?

Yes. Excess fluid may flood inter-plate connectors, splash out through vents under charge, and corrode the tray [Elektroda, maxim.251, post #9506046] A 5 mm overshoot usually evaporates, but repeated spillage shortens service life.

Do I need to loosen the caps while charging?

Loosen or vent the caps so hydrogen escapes; tighten below 1 Nm afterward [Elektroda, mariolee, post #5864814] Modern vented plugs rarely need full removal, but stuck caps raise internal pressure.

How much distilled water should I add if plates are exposed?

Add small amounts—30 ml at a time—until plates disappear and the fluid reaches the L-tab height. Stop once 10 mm coverage is reached [Elektroda, gimak, post #8555746]

What happens if electrolyte drops below the plates?

Exposed lead sulfates within hours, cutting capacity by about 20 % in 24 h [DOE, 2019]. Long exposure warps plates and sheds active material, making recovery unlikely.

My charger shows 0 A but the battery gurgles—is it charging?

Likely sulfation causes high internal resistance so current falls quickly [Elektroda, remekb, post #16275614] Bubble sounds mean voltage exceeds gassing threshold; a slow 1–2 A trickle for 24 h can sometimes revive it.

Can topping up revive a sulfated or frozen battery?

Water plus low-current charging rescues roughly 30 % of sulfated units [BatteryCouncil, 2023]. Frozen, cracked, or shorted cells remain scrap despite refilling [Elektroda, zibq, post #16275799]

How do I top up distilled water safely?

  1. Wear gloves and eye protection.
  2. Use a plastic funnel to add distilled water until 10 mm above plates.
  3. Wipe spills, loosen caps, then charge at 1/10 C for 10 h.

When should I replace instead of repair the battery?

Replace if open-circuit voltage stays below 11.8 V after charging, any cell shows <1.20 g/cm³ density, or case is bulged [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16275052]

Will freezing damage a discharged battery?

Yes. Electrolyte at 1.15 g/cm³ freezes near −15 °C, cracking plates and separators [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16275831] A fully charged battery survives −50 °C.

What type of water should I use for topping up?

Only distilled or de-ionised water. Tap minerals accelerate self-discharge and raise internal resistance [Bosch TechSheet, 2022].
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