Bosch Maintenance-Free Battery Desulphation: Gassing Issues & Effective Techniques (90 characters)

I have a maintenance-free Bosch battery. I wanted to desulphurize it, but when it loads it, after fifteen minutes it starts to gass quite intensively (but it does not heat up). It charges it with a small current (about 1A - 74Ah battery). I recently charged it with a current of around 2A and after a fairly short time the current drops to almost 0A (around 2 hours).
What to do if you want to desulfate it? Charge it despite gassing? Maybe treat it with 24V voltage for a while or some high intensity? (I read these two options somewhere on the forum but I don't know if they will be good for my battery)? If either of these two options is good, how long should you use it? I can achieve a maximum charging current of about 30A (starting device ).

If bubbling bothers you, you can reduce the current, but if you keep it at 1A, it is suitable for desulfurization at this capacity, further reducing it may reduce / slow down the effectiveness of the desulfurization treatment. In my opinion, the basic criterion is that the battery does not heat up too much, and the bulb because it is glad that someone has finally taken care of it. He should do this for at least a few days / up to a week; it is good to check changes in electrolyte density with a hydrometer.
Kisses Gerri

Hello.

boss wrote;
I recently charged it with a current of around 2A and after a fairly short time the current drops to almost 0A (around 2 hours).

Maybe this battery does not need desulfurization?
Is it possible to access cells and measure electrolyte density?

Well, unfortunately, it is a maintenance-free battery and there is no access to the cells. And unfortunately it has become sulphated because I have discharged twice and now it holds up badly: / (about three days with an alarm connected) The battery does not have a lot of mileage - 40,000. km. When the battery is disconnected from the car, it easily lasts a month without charging, and maybe even more (I was on vacation, I found out).

I also have a "maintenance-free" one, but there is access to the cells and I even had to refill the electrolyte with water.
Back to your problem.
If you could charge the battery with 1A current, you have to do it for 74 hours (because 12 will do nothing) then maybe you would improve the condition of your battery.
High current could knock the active mass off the plates, thus creating a short circuit and damaging the battery for good.

And is it possible to get to the cells in order to refill water in Bosch maintenance-free batteries?

Colleagues, if the battery is sulphated, it will not help, and this is what the description looks like, I have some experience with my batteries. One observation is enough, for example, the battery is discharged, i.e. it does not want to spin if we connect it to the charger, we will treat it with normal current and the intensity drops very quickly, i.e. as they say I do not want to take electricity, we will not force it, it is simply sulphated. I used to combine with charging, pouring out the electrolyte, pouring distilled water, charging, pouring 3x pouring thick electrolyte, charging, and a dog in the box for a scrap battery. charging with desulphation, it is charging with partial discharging discharge current = 1/10 charging currents I even made such a rectifier and nothing came of it. It's just that the literature writes so nicely. Colleagues, I say once again that it's a waste of time.

I also made such a rectifier and connected it to desulphurization for a week, the result was that the capacity of this battery dropped in my opinion by half as fast as it was charged and discharged faster, I looked at two batteries.

no need for a special rectifier, even the simplest one without smoothing the rectified voltage. Parallel to the battery, connect the bulb. When half of the rectified voltage reaches its maximum, the battery is charged. 100 times per second.
Effectiveness? - I did not have the opportunity to test but
met people who said it helps

It all depends on how much it is sulphated (it is not sulfur, but lead sulphate). If it was discharged to the bottom and stood for a few days, normal charging (Q / 10) plus then a few days with a small current (0.5A) would dissolve some crystals. It is even better to charge and discharge three times (Q / 10) so that the active mass will work. It will not restore the loss of capacity in 100%, but it will help. If he stayed for a month, nothing will save him.
Classic symptoms of sulphation: the charging voltage rises to over 16V with a current of Q / 40 or even lower, strong gassing at such a current, large loss of capacity (over 30%), all gray and white plates (positive ones are to be brown, negative gray). Capacity checked when discharging a charged battery Q / 10 to 15V, discharge also Q / 10 to a voltage of 11.1V.

Hello
Or maybe this alarm is drawing too much current.
Regards

Desulphation Charging is most Effective when the Charging Current is 10 times greater than the Discharge Current

Every battery that is maintenance-free has access to the cells and the electrolyte level should be controlled - this is not what maintenance-free is about.

> colleagues, if the battery is sulfated, holy god will not help, and this is what the description looks like, I have some experience with my batteries.

I also have some experiences, so let's confront!

> One observation is enough, e.g. the battery is discharged, i.e. it does not want to spin, if we connect it to the rectifier, we treat it with normal current and the intensity drops very quickly, i.e. as they say, it does not want to take electricity, we will not force it, it is simply sulphated.

Do you know what the sulfation effect is? The large surface of the plates ceases to participate in normal operating reactions (i.e. fast charging / discharging) A battery with a capacity of, for example, 60Ah, with sulfation at 80%, is actually a 12 Ah battery, so it is not surprising that the charger will quickly charge these 12 Ah, the voltage will increase and the charging current will be limited or the rectifier will turn off, because this is the design assumption of this type of rectifiers (switching off after reaching the cut-off voltage of the vehicle installation, i.e. approx. 14 (over) volts)



> I used to combine charging, pouring out the electrolyte, pouring distilled water, charging, pouring 3 times over thick electrolyte, charging, and a dog on the shed for scrap metal.

And I have treated the batteries with great success and they have recovered probably 100% of their capacity (at least they spin like stupid for a few minutes) Condition: of course it cannot be a carcass! For example: a guest escapes with tax at the end of the year> buys a (new) car> the car stays in the barn for half a year (because he is damned for the fifth car?)> The battery is sulfated, because the car has a lot of electronics that milk the electricity.
And this is the best battery for treatment, which guarantees that after desulphurization the cells will have an equal electrolyte density (without flooding with distilled water)

> And I must add that there is a so-called charging with desulphation, it is charging with partial discharging discharge current = 1/10 charging currents I even made such a rectifier and nothing came of it. It's just that the literature writes so nicely. Colleagues, I say once again that it's a waste of time.

If you don't raise the charging voltage properly while keeping the current low, it is indeed a waste of time. The rectifier will turn off and the conditioner will get cholera.
The best and easiest way to maintain constant current is through a high rectifier voltage and a series resistor.

Kisses Gerri

> Every battery that is maintenance-free has access to the cells and the electrolyte level must be> checked - this is not what maintenance-free is about.

But how do you get to these destinations? I tried in every way to tear the lid off the top, but I failed - it bends, deforms and still won't budge.

szefoszefo wrote:

> Every battery that is maintenance-free has access to the cells and the electrolyte level must be> checked - this is not what maintenance-free is about.

But how do you get to these destinations? I tried in every way to tear the lid off the top, but I failed - it bends, deforms and still won't budge.

NOT EVERY battery has access to cells, they are those with limited maintenance-free (with plugs) and completely maintenance-free (plugs are, but somehow permanently vulcanized + sealed with a sticker) and the attempt to reach the cells here results in rather destruction of the base
Kisses Gerri

Proper charging of a lead battery is based on the formation of lead and lead dioxide in the plates. Each symptom of gassing, or "bulking" as you say, is incorrect, because it indicates the electrolysis of water instead of the above-described process. It occurs in the case of damaged plates, where the active mass of lead dioxide has fallen off a part of the surface and reacted with sulfuric acid to lead sulphate falling to the bottom and, additionally shortening the plates, causes rapid discharge by such an internal short circuit. The charging process with both high and low current will do nothing here, and significant gassing when trying to regenerate causes only additional mass drop. Such a battery is not worth repairing, but if you do, you should first thoroughly rinse the white-gray sediment from the bottom of the box with water several times and then try to charge it after flooding with distilled water for the final removal of lead sulphate. If, after such treatment, self-discharge continues or the capacity drops significantly - further work is in vain. I would like to point out that excessive charging current often raises the cell voltage to the level where the electrolysis of water begins and "gurgling", which, as I can see, is widely accepted, is the real cause of active mass detachment, leading gradually to more and more damage. In addition to chemical processes, shocks also have an impact on the detachment of the active mass, so I advise you to insulate the all-accumulator box well, e.g. with polystyrene, which will reduce vibrations and in winter will keep the internal heat emitted inside the battery during chemical processes.

And I will continue to gently "bubble" there when the occasions arise. More than once I am convinced that all scientific theories fail in the face of practical effects
Of course, electrolysis of water is not the purpose of charging, but gentle gassing informs me that the current is not too low (its "surplus" for gassing)
Greetings and Dosiego year!

My friend Gerri quoted my statements and argued with them very scientifically and I had the impression that he questioned my observations, but I don't know why. It's all true, I only described my observations about the experience with batteries and I still say that the fun is pointless. he thinks mainly of sulphated batteries during normal use.

please tell me because I am green, if I have nothing, I have a plate in the 74Ah battery, a color that is slightly very slightly white, like a "dream fish", so your ois shows that it is sulphated, right ??? because I smoke, for example, for a few months and suddenly my armpits and nothing needs to be charged, and again a few and again nothing and so over and over again and is only 2.5 years old with normal driving about 30-40 km a week around the city. So I have a question
- what does it mean to charge in series and what in parallel with a connected bulb (+ to +; - to -)?
- after desulfurization, I have to change the electrolyte or just add distilled water which will evaporate
- please do not write it makes sense or not because I don't care and I want to find out for myself

I also desulphurized the battery by pouring acid, pouring water and charging with low current, then I poured acid and ... battery

Desulphating only by charging with only water poured into it will not repair the battery. The sulphated plates must be radically desulphurized with perhydrol. Then there will be odors and a little more rinsing. Then you can charge with the water only. When the water is clean during rinsing, you can pour the electrolyte. With dismountable batteries it was easier to clean the plates and replace the damaged ones.

Instead of combining so much, it is better to buy a NEW one

Read here http://tinyurl.com/ylho6wn

the battery will not desulfate. The board is sulfated and you will not remove it

regeneration is possible and recommended and, most importantly, applied - as proof, I recommend an interesting article
http://www.elektroonline.pl/a/721
especially a fragment: Methods of regeneration of lead-acid batteries

I will join this scholarly discussion once again. Unfortunately, not all maintenance-free batteries have access to cells and it is not possible to measure the density of the electrolyte in them, and to fill the losses with distilled water, not to mention rinsing the cells. In such cases, treating gurgling as satisfaction of the battery quickly leads to its replacement (for the reasons mentioned above). Second note, in line with the saying: who cares, so does it. Isn't it better to take care of the condition of the battery all the time than to wonder about it later when it refuses to obey? My batteries last from 6 (or two) to even 10 years.

Here, I support, the battery should be taken care of from the beginning because when it is already weak, all regeneration processes can bring 50/50 results. Personally, after buying the car, I had a discharged battery to 3V !!! after charging, he was able to pull the car on the starter for several dozen meters in the parking lot (because there was no hesitation and did not want to push ) and it was more or less 6-year-old centers +.
Above all, the traffic light obligation + Miajsk driving, and in particular, short sections are pure killing for the battery. Here, the effects are already visible when the headlights are turned off when stopping at intersections on red, but you have to remember about it and remember to turn it on when starting. The solution is to install daytime running lights or a daylight module that turns on the filaments of bulbs responsible for 30% long (2x60W = 120 X 30% = 40W). The purchase systems control the fibers by impulse, but I went the simpler way and on two (switching) relays I made a module that connects these fibers in series, which in theory gives 50% and in practice the lights consume 40-45W depending on the voltage in the installation or about 30% and the effects can be seen in the state of the battery. The system is simple: disconnect the passing beam with one relay at 1 headlight, and switch the mass of the bulb to the power supply with the other. At this point, the current flows through filament 1 - installation - filament 2 bulbs to ground which gives daylight that shines as high as long, but not so intense as to blind others. By the way, I recommend also connecting the position lights to the system, although the current regulations do not require them to be turned on with daytime running lights, but in rainy weather you can still often use only the daytime running lights at the front, but not turned on position lights significantly reduce the visibility of the vehicle from the rear, you can insert LEDs on kalbe and connect so that only the rear position lights are lit with the daytime lights, always less current is escaping ...

I got a German battery from 2009. Almost not used. Unfortunately, it is completely discharged - not used for quite a long time .. even the bulb will not light up ... I tried to charge - but it did not work ...
can something be made of it?
it must be sulphated ...

to my friend, read the posts above