One Furnace, Two Controllers: Connect Parallel Auraton Wired & Auraton 2005 Wireless to Viessmann

Hello.
Can two controllers be connected in parallel to one furnace (Viessmann)? At the moment I have one wired regulator (Auraton) installed. The problem is that I would like to install a second wireless one in another room (I was thinking about Auraton 2005) and connect it to the stove.
Thank you in advance for your answer.

I have a furnace and two regulators. But from what I know, it depends on the model and if more than one independent circuit can be made, then an independent regulator can be given to each.
I have another question - I have two circuits - underfloor heating down and radiators up. I bought two regulators with a temperature sensor, but the Viessmann service technician advised not to install the regulator where there is a floor heating system, because due to the high thermal inertia of such heating, it will do more harm than help (large response delays). And I generally understand it, but I'm not entirely convinced by setting the temperature on the stove. Is there no other way than by trial and error to find out that if I set the temperature on the boiler in a room with floor tiles, for example, to 18 degrees, it will result in, for example, 20 degrees at my house?

Generally, you can do this in two ways:

1. Parallel connection of two controllers.
A description of the action: heating will be turned on if the temperature in one of the controlled rooms drops below the set temperature. Heating will be turned off if the temperature in both rooms rises above the set temperature.

2. Serial connection of two controllers.
A description of the action: heating will be turned on if the temperature in both controlled rooms drops below the set temperature. Heating will be turned off if the temperature in one of the controlled rooms rises above the set temperature.

At home, I have two controllers connected in parallel, one is placed in the room on the ground floor, the other in the room on the first floor. Temperature measurement in two independent rooms is a good solution, taking into account unexpected temperature drops/increases in two measurement points.

Welcome back.
Thanks for the answer. I wanted to make sure beforehand. Right after Christmas, I will connect the second regulator in parallel because I am interested in measuring and switching on the stove from the second point.
Regards.

e-multimax.pl wrote:

Generally, you can do this in two ways:

1. Parallel connection of two controllers.
A description of the action: heating will be turned on if the temperature in one of the controlled rooms drops below the set temperature. Heating will be turned off if the temperature in both rooms rises above the set temperature.

Only in this case, the rooms will be heated unevenly and in one room the temperature, for example, in the bedroom will reach 26 degrees, while in the living room it will be 18 degrees and before it reaches the set temperature, you will boil in the bedroom.
Ew. you set the temperature on the heads, this is a half-measure
The best way is to control three-way valves, but you need to think about it when laying the central heating system

You can set a different temperature on each regulator, so there is no fear of "cooking". In addition, of course, it is also worth "playing" with the regulation of radiators on return valves.

I have two regulators connected in parallel, one is mounted in the room on the ground floor, and the other in the room on the first floor. Heating is activated when the temperature in one of the controlled rooms drops below the set temperature. The task of such a solution is additional protection against excessive temperature drop. One regulator has a normal temperature set (19.5 degrees C) - we want to maintain this temperature throughout the house, and the other regulator has a set temperature of 18 degrees. C - this is a protection in case the temperature at the top drops too much.

This solution works as it should, previously the temperature at the top sometimes dropped below 17 degrees. C - because there are greater heat losses.

e-multimax.pl wrote:

You can set a different temperature on each regulator, so there is no fear of "cooking".

Well, only the boiler does not distinguish between individual radiators and hot water flows to all.
If you have set 21 degrees in one room and it is 21 degrees, and the set temperature has dropped in another, the sensor will turn on the stove and the heat is transported where it is needed and where it is not.
If, for example, you left the window open in the living room with a cubage of 25 m/2 in which one of the controllers is set to 21 degrees and the temperature has dropped below 21, and you are in a bedroom of 15 m/2 where the temperature on the controller is set to 20 degrees, then before the temperature in the living room rises to these 21, you have a sauna in the bedroom.
In the specification, the manufacturer of Auraton states that this device can control many receivers (boilers), but there is no mention of the reverse situation.
Being forced is another matter :)

By the way, I've seen wireless controllers, installed instead of thermostatic heads on radiators.
This solution is smarter, but more expensive

Added after 2 [minutes]:

e-multimax.pl wrote:

In addition, of course, it is also worth "playing" with the regulation of radiators on return valves.

And what can you do here and what will it give????

To do it right, two solenoid valves should be used - up and down separately. The appropriate thermostat activates the EZ + boiler.
Recently, I made a system in which the bottom is heated under the floor, and the top - radiators. moreover, an additional serial central heating pump is installed behind the stove and, to make things more difficult, a hot utility water tank. I added control with the possibility of EZ operation, thermostat pumps in the following modes: auto / off / manual and the appropriate control logic for the additional pump - e.g. no operation when loading DHW.

At my house, I have 4 solenoid valves that control the appropriate parts of the building.

It is not true that the use of a thermostat with an underfloor heating system does not work. It should be a low hysteresis thermostat, preferably 0.5 C or less. and the time settings should be 1-3 hours ahead - experimental setting.
It saves fuel consumption as much as possible and ensures a relatively stable temperature. It is true to say that floor tiles have a lot of inertia, but this feature does not allow the room to overheat, and in transitional periods it is good to have weather control.

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

To do it right, two solenoid valves should be used - up and down separately.

But this is done in the design or implementation phase.
Then you can only sculpt, because no one will rip the floor

I think you have a riser, some floor dividers ... This is where the above-mentioned valves are inserted ... What kind of floor and flush are you writing about?

In my opinion, the best solution, the cheapest in operation and the most practical is: an electronic thermostat in each room that controls the electric valve in a given room and the relay, the relay contacts connected in parallel control the operation of the boiler. Having such a system, we can set the temperature in all rooms as desired, e.g. in the first 28 in the second 5
2 advantage the stove heats only where the temperature is too low,

This is how it is done in desirable installations with floor heating. There is only a small "but" - the cheapest solenoid valve and the thermoelectric type costs PLN 120 + the cost of a needle valve (such as for a thermostatic head) about PLN 30-50 + control. It's for one underfloor circuit, or radiator.

The valves I wrote about earlier are ball valves with a high flow and the cost of one for 3/4 "is PLN 150 or 1"-180 PLN. You can do a whole vertical on this.

Added after 8 [minutes]:

If the thermoregulator is placed in a representative place - such a system works very well.

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

This is how it is done in desirable installations with floor heating. There is only a small "but" - the cheapest solenoid valve and the thermoelectric type costs PLN 120 + the cost of a needle valve (such as for a thermostatic head) about PLN 30-50 + control. It's for one underfloor circuit, or radiator.

.

Yes. Let the cost of one radiator increase by PLN 300-400. In such medium-sized houses, let there be up to 7 radiators, we increase the cost by PLN 2,100 to PLN 3,200. With a construction cost of at least PLN 200,000, it is 1-1.5% not much. I'm just curious how much I can save on fuel, having full freedom to program temperatures in individual rooms in the range of, say, 16 to 28 degrees (because my thermostats have such regulations)

If you want savings, convince people to use surface heating - I assure you that it is difficult, but until the delinquent sees that it is more practical, cheaper heating, provided that it is done correctly. Errors in radiator installations are more forgivable and easy to repair, and they are easier to design and implement.

You will not improve the inevitable heat losses for ventilation purposes with a thermoregulator - this is becoming a serious element of these losses in times of better and better insulation of buildings.

surface heating? i.e. floor?
I have one of these and I have a thermostat in every room. Fine coal boiler!!! you may not believe it, but last winter I spent less than PLN 1000 to heat a 120 m2 house this year due to the fact that the price of heating had increased by almost 100%, such a result will not be possible. I'm thinking about a gas boiler now!!. the temperature at the boiler output is 35 degrees and the heating time is about 4 hours a day, I estimate it based on how many thermostats are turned on at temperatures like now, about 0

Floor heating is a variation of surface heating. There are still wall surface.
I also have floor heating and I know many people who have changed their minds to this type of heating. which can be seen in houses with mixed (top radiators - much worse thermal comfort).

Added after 28 [seconds]:

But we are slowly getting off topic...

Foka0111 wrote:

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

To do it right, two solenoid valves should be used - up and down separately.

But this is done in the design or execution phase.
Then you can only sculpt, because no one will rip the floor

solenoid valve instead of the shut-off valve at the manifold! Exchange is no problem!

You are right, the best solution is solenoid valves for each radiator, controlled by a separate temperature controller for each room. Unfortunately, there are high costs here, although the efficiency is also much higher.

The question at the beginning was whether two regulators can be connected to one boiler. My answer was specific to the question, without taking into account all the alternative solutions - undoubtedly better, but also much more expensive!!!

I wrote what are the connection options (parallel and serial) and how the heating will work if you choose each of these options.
It is not a perfect solution, as you write, it has many disadvantages, with which I 100% agree, but it is relatively cheap and solves some problems.

But most of the installations are based on one temperature regulator, installed in one model room, on the basis of which the entire heating system is controlled - it can also be said that this is a poor solution, because there may be different temperatures in different rooms, but not everyone can afford it. a head with a solenoid valve for each radiator and a separate thermostat for each room.