Configuring Wireless Controllers from Techa / Salus for Underfloor Heating Control

Hi
A single-family house on the ground floor and on the first floor there is underfloor heating, now I want to control this heating with wireless controllers from Techa or Salus. Yesterday I ran one utp wires from the top splitter to the splitter at the bottom, and from the splitter at the bottom I ran a 4x1 cable to the furnace. I talked to one electrician that this is how it should be but I do not trust him 100%, that's why he asks here. The 4x1 cable from the distributor at the bottom is for when all the valves close, it will send a signal to the pump that it should turn off. Add photos.

It is not my intention to instruct or dissuade someone, but controlling the floor heating is a complete nonsense, the inertia of this type of heating is so great that this type of control should not be considered, the best option is to give the right temperature to the power supply and heat nonstop without shutdowns, because each cooling down of the floor heating causes 2 times more demand than it would be to heat constantly, I came to the conclusion after 4-year trials that I heat constantly at low temperatures and I adjusted individual rooms with rotameters, I do not criticize and do not advise against it, and this is only my opinion.

I can assure you that controlling the underfloor heating makes sense, for example a constant room temperature regardless of the weather, turning off the pump or the stove when there is no demand for heat. Leaving the underfloor installation without at least one room regulator means that when the weather conditions change (temperature drops or stronger winds), it is necessary to modify the supply temperature or accept temperature fluctuations in the heated rooms. However, if you would like to have a stable temperature in the rooms, you should use a regulator that can cope with the inertia of such an installation. The easiest way is to use an algorithm that will select the circuit activation time and the pause time proportional to the measured room temperature, or rather to how much is missing from the set temperature. Of course, such accuracy is not required everywhere and it is worth considering where we want accurate control, and where we can safely do without a regulator. I recommend the module for wireless control of the actuators on the manifold Euroster T6RX, which we connect near the manifold to NC type actuators for 230V (e.g. Euroster T1NC or other of this type), we also connect the pump and the boiler to the module (with a two-wire cable to the boiler in the place intended for the room regulator). We pair wireless controllers with the module, e.g. Euroster Q7T6TX, which will measure the temperature in each room (max 6 controllers per module). It is also worth remembering to turn on the PWM algorithm in these regulators (thanks to it, the room temperature will be exactly what we want) and not to set several temperature levels a day. In the case of a floor heating, night-time lowering is unlikely to be effective and it is enough to set one constant desired air temperature in a given room. It is also not worth overdoing with the number of regulators, they do not have to be installed in every room. They are usually used in living rooms, bathrooms or bedrooms. If the rooms are connected to each other, e.g. an open kitchen with a living room, then one common regulator is enough, the rest of the rooms, e.g. corridors or other technical rooms, you can easily connect to one of these regulators or even give up some actuators, and adjust them by slightly tightening the water flow on these circuits. Thanks to the T6RX module, the pump will be turned off anyway when all rooms with the controllers are warmed up.

I see you have a Saunier Duval - Thelia Condens boiler. After the photos you can see that the boiler is connected only to ~ 230V power supply and the tank temperature sensor. There is only one pump behind the clutch and it is powered from a ~ 230V socket.
You do not have any weather regulator or just an outside temperature sensor?
You do not have any additional automation to control the pump by the boiler?
Write how you want to control the boiler and pump.

As for the individual control of the underfloor heating, it seems that everything has already been written - there are supporters of extensive individual control of each room separately, and there are supporters of simple control of flow regulation on manifolds. With a correctly made and adjusted installation, only weather regulation and flow adjustment on the OP loops is enough. If this is not enough or there are design / execution errors or we want a specific temperature in specific rooms, we have to expand the system with control. It is always worth starting the OP system at the beginning and see if this simple solution is enough for us without control strips, actuators and thermostats, which we can always put on later.

However, if we decide to expand the control, it is best to already have some cable infrastructure. The base is ~ 230V in distributors for slats and communication between the control slats and the boiler room. The more cables the better
But what you got should be enough.

I made an L-8e techa rail and I don't have any cable. Everything goes wireless. It is true that the strip turned out to be defective and tomorrow I am going to the service, so we'll see. However, after 2 weeks of living, I do not know whether room control was needed for the floor. As someone wrote, the inertia is large and heating / cooling takes ages. I'll see him test it. First they have to embrace the slat because there is something wrong with mine

Some form of control is useful. There is no need to change the temperature levels, e.g. lowering for the night, because it actually takes quite a long time to raise the temperature, even by one degree. One constant room temperature works best in an underfloor heating system, regardless of how it is achieved.