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Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB

Mery84 91309 11
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • Each of us probably faces this problem.
    After a while, the fan becomes unbearably noisy, dirty and a nuisance.
    You have spent a certain amount of money on a good fan, but sooner or later each one starts to make noise.
    The following tutorial is entirely my authorship. There are no copied texts, photos are taken by me and the described method has been used by me for a long time.
    It can be used for processor fans, graphics cards or additional fans for cooling the case. Depending on the specific fan model, it may be slightly different. The main differences are:
    fan bearing type,
    a metal or plastic split pin used,
    another method of securing the axis of the fan blades in the bearing and body of the fan.

    To the point :) .

    Our hero is a Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 - 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB, dug out of a drawer, not currently used. The bearing used is a double ball bearing.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    We peel off the sticker with the manufacturer's logo and the technical data of the fan.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    Most often, we find a plastic plug under it, protecting the fan bearing from excess dust. Qoltec did not apply it. The photo shows a plastic pin, the removal of which will give us access to disassemble the fan.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    Gently lift the pin with a small screwdriver, taking care that it does not spring back. If the cotter pin is lost, it will not be possible to reassemble the fan correctly! We try not to damage it during disassembly and not to bend it too much. In the case of a plastic pin, straightening it in the fingers is not problematic, while in the case of a metal one, be careful not to break it.

    After removing the split pin, the fan blades are gently pushed downwards, while being careful not to lose the bearing. On this fan, the two ball bearings are separated by a spring that can push out one of the bearings. In this case, the dirt kept the bearings in place, so I had no problem :) .
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    The picture above shows a set of bearings with a spring.
    When disassembling the fan, remember on which side your model has the bearing mounted - then you have to put it back there.

     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    As you can see, I got the fan blades together with the axis.
    You can also see how clean they are ;) . The hair which, out of nowhere, found its way on the axis :) .
    We start cleaning.
    I use the CX-80 spray preparation shown in the photo.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    Its counterpart is also Ronson or WD-40. It is a preservative and repair agent, but also strongly removes rust and dissolves various dirt.
    We clean the fan blades and axle thoroughly, and in hard-to-reach places or in smaller fans, we help ourselves with typical cotton buds.

    A little patience and we get the effect as you can see:
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB  Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB

    Another element that requires cleaning is the fan body.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    We deal with it similarly to paddles and after a while of work:
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB

    We are now starting to put our patient together.
    I remind you of the basics of mechanics that it is not the bearing that rotates on the shaft, but sits steadily on the shaft, and the bearing rings rotate.
    After cleaning the bearings with CX-80 preparation and removing the remnants of the preparation with gasoline, I lubricate the bearings with Teflon spray grease. It is a fast-adhering, water-resistant grease that fulfills its role in the temperature range from -20 ° C to + 110 ° C.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB

    At this point, I also inform you that it is absolutely not advisable to use:
    - vegetable (cooking) oil
    - typical machine lubricants
    - engine oils
    I have encountered cases of using the above measures while reading various forums.
    As a proven measure, I can recommend the oil attached to sewing machines. It is a very liquid oil with very good lubricating properties.

    In my case, the first bearing is mounted on the axis of the blades, the second one at the front of the fan body. Place a spring between the bearings. We put the fan's blades in the spring and put the axle through the second bearing. The whole thing is secured from the front with the previously removed pin. I remind you to do it with feeling.
    Also remember that your fan may have a completely different structure, and thus its reassembly depends on its design.

    Here you can see our patient after cleaning and assembly.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB

    In my humble opinion, spending 15-20 minutes restoring your fan to condition is definitely more wise than buying a new one. This especially applies to processor fans or graphics cards, the replacement of which is definitely difficult in the case of non-standard cooling design. Often, replacing the fan itself is even impossible and we are forced to replace the entire cooling system.
    About Author
    Mery84
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Offline 
    Mery84 wrote 7034 posts with rating 265, helped 427 times. Live in city Chorzów. Been with us since 2006 year.
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  • #2 6014801
    IzzyMan!
    Level 25  
    Let me add something from myself.
    Also very good for lubrication. is
    - Vaseline oil (about PLN 20 for 2L)
    - bearing grease (It is a cheaper method available in a bicycle shop, cost about PLN 4)
    Personally, I use bearing grease because of the price.

    Closed ball bearings: Their problem is that no grease gets into them in any way. Mery84 visible in the photo.
    The only bearings we can lubricate are open type. Unfortunately, they are rarely seen.
     Easy Guide to Clean & Lubricate Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 Fan: 12V 0.18A 1500RPM 22dB
    I personally came across them in the AMDx2 4600+ box cooler. I suspect that this is not the only case.
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  • #3 6042380
    Tomek331
    Level 26  
    Sorry, but I'll add my 5 cents. Bearing grease gives little resistance, after all, it is used for bicycle wreaths, because resistance is not felt, but from my own experience, such a pinwheel will not rotate as before. Vaseline oil is slippery, so the fact that it is more expensive, the difference is still small and the differences in performance can be noticed.
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  • #4 6091186
    t.catch
    Level 16  
    Now I - I also tested a lot, man is lazy by nature, but no one should be blamed for the so-called "constructive laziness" - that is, on the example of a windmill, "since others clean and lubricate every 3 months, I will try to do it less often" :idea:
    From my experience, I value graphite grease more - why? Because even when the mineral factor (fat) dries up, even dry graphite lubricates it quite well. Its only downside - it rubs everything mercilessly while applying it.
    As for sealed bearings - there is actually a problem, because it is impossible to dismantle them, so it is a problem to clean and re-lubricate them. Here is a proposal of a pre-war method used to lubricate a bicycle chain. First, cleaning - a bath, for example in extractive gas, you can try cleaning agents for bicycle parts - e.g. from the FINISHLINE series. If someone is a perfectionist and has access - an ultrasonic cleaner will probably work (although it will be art for art).
    And now pre-war lubrication - good lubricants for bearings are in a solid or semi-liquid state - so we will not "squeeze" them through the micro-gaps into the center of the bearing. So you have to melt such grease - of course, without boiling it or overheating - e.g. a water bath is a good idea (i.e. grease in your vessel, which is partially immersed in water heated in a larger vessel). When the grease becomes liquid - throw the cleaned bearings into it and leave it to solidify. Then we "pick" them out of the grease and clean them - but no chemicals, only with a cloth. After this procedure, we have a placenta, into which something has definitely entered.
    Of course, in the case of such bearings, bicycle greases with Teflon are recommended - the liquid medium is mainly the carrier of Teflon - after some time it will evaporate and the Teflon will remain as a lubricant. And it also has the advantage that various types of rubbish stick to it poorly - just choose a lubricant for dry weather (in the case of FINISHLINE it will be the one with a green plug - not red), because the one with rain behaves more like oil.
  • #6 6149730
    orinoco
    Level 14  
    t.catch wrote:

    As for sealed bearings - there is actually a problem, because it is impossible to dismantle them, so it is a problem to clean and re-lubricate them. Here is a proposal of a pre-war method used to lubricate a bicycle chain. First, cleaning - a bath, for example, in extractive gasoline,


    Maybe this is a good method for a bicycle chain, certainly not a covered bearing. It will not be possible to remove all the gas from under the bearing caps - it will be released gradually after the bearing is assembled. The principle is that covered bearings do not get lubricated - they do not get dirty, there is no need for them. The only possibility is that the grease dries out - then the bearing is replaced.
    So much for the theory.
    However, practice shows that the required bearings cannot be obtained, and even if they can - they make the same noise as the old ones. What to do?
    There is a way out:
    - gently open the bearing on one side, removing the metal covering the plate with a regular medium-sized sewing needle.
    - Then the bearing is washed (which is at hand and dissolves the grease).
    - thorough drying
    - The next step is to put a drop of oil on the balls - vaseline oil is more easily accessible - at least it should be not too thick.
    - screw the bearing a few times to distribute the oil
    - lubricate with new grease (good quality, may be graphite)
    - assemble the fan in such a way that the parts of the originally covered bearings face each other (towards the inside of the fan) - the exposed part of the bearings outside.
    This method is suitable for all bearing sizes, providing a significant amount of noise reduction. Of course, provided that the bearing is not simply worn (worn races and balls).
  • #7 6157112
    t.catch
    Level 16  
    I agree that grease penetration and cleaning of an airtight bearing are difficult - but if the bearing needs lubrication, it means it is no longer so tight - then my method will work. And a very important problem, raised only by the previous speaker - we start BY CHECKING the wear condition of the bearing. Because if it has play and you can feel uneven work - it is only good for scrap.
  • #8 6174881
    szymon021990
    Level 14  
    Mery84 wrote:
    At this point, I also inform you that it is absolutely not advisable to use:
    -typical machine lubricants


    What about machine oil? I have used it many times and the fan (slide bearing) has been running for several years without any problems.
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  • #9 6188014
    orinoco
    Level 14  
    Machine oil can also be used for slide bearings. The lubricant layer is very thin, the oil penetrates the gap quite well.
    On the other hand, I cannot agree with the categorical claim that conventional machine greases cannot be used for fan bearings. The only problem is the relatively high density, which increases the rolling resistance of the windmill's low power.
    As for the spray lubricant - I do not know this invention from practice, but this lubricant has to be pumped in quite a lot, otherwise it will not be enough for long - the lubricant will be on the sides of the raceway and the balls will roll when dry.
    The method I gave earlier with the administration of a drop of oil is to wet the balls, which then makes it easier to "absorb" the main lubricant. Oil / oil alone is never sufficient for the effective (long-term) lubrication of rolling element bearings. Well, unless it works in an oil bath, but this is not the category of devices ...
  • #10 6221857
    Radtke
    Level 12  
    It is best to use the old method: the so-called "zetka" bearing, which is closed on both sides, can be lubricated by pressing the grease into the slots of the ball housing with your fingers. When will the effect be seen? As on the other side of the bearing, grease of a different color, i.e. dirty, will come out. You will have to dress your fingers and paws a bit with grease, but the effect is bricked, without the risk of removing the ball housings. What lubricant to use? Rare (vaseline) to thick becomes a hard shell over time. Before pressing in, you can moisten the old grease with sewing machine oil.
    The grease pressed in this way will displace all dirt together with the old grease.
  • #11 6316727
    tvl
    Level 13  
    1 - Graphite grease is great for lubricating hinges, bicycle chains, constant velocity joints and other highly stressed and slowly rubbing parts. NOT SUITABLE for the lubrication of rolling element bearings.
    2 - Lubricating greases are very good for bearings (low rolling resistance), but often have to be refilled. We will achieve a much more lasting effect by using a rolling bearing grease (it can be synthetic). It should be remembered that the bearing is filled with grease in 1/3 of its volume.
  • #12 6555650
    norbi45
    Level 33  
    Noisy bearings are the result of rolling elements that have not been lubricated or their intended service life has just expired. They just wear out mechanical parts.

    In cars, if the bearings are "loud", each mechanic and driver will admit that they need to be replaced, not lubricated. There is a time for lubricating the bearings while they are still operational.

    In my opinion, if the fan starts to get noisy, it is too late to save it. Then it is already replaced. Bearing lubrication, no matter what, it is simply "temporary clogging of bearing clearances".
    The fans cost a few zlotys, and the new one comes back a few years.

    Regards.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the maintenance of the Qoltec SilentLine QF1225 fan, specifically addressing the issues of noise and dirt accumulation over time. Various lubrication methods are proposed, including the use of Vaseline oil, bearing grease, and machine oil, with participants sharing personal experiences and preferences. The challenges of lubricating sealed bearings are highlighted, with suggestions for cleaning and re-lubricating techniques. Some participants argue that once a fan becomes noisy, it may be more effective to replace it rather than attempt lubrication. The conversation emphasizes the importance of regular maintenance to prolong the fan's lifespan and performance.
Summary generated by the language model.
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