Recurring High Pressure in Nike Pilot Boiler Despite New Valve and Vessel

So the pump has to deliver not only water horizontally but also vertically. Over a vertical distance of 10 meters, the pressure that will affect the pump will be approximately 1kPa. We will have about 5 meters from the basement to the first floor.
Please establish a pressure of 1.5 Bar in the expansion vessel and the same pressure in the boiler water system.
The heaters on the 1st floor will be hot, the pump will run quietly even at speed 3.
Good luck.

I would check the patency of the tubes, maybe they are clogged with something and hence the pressure increase.
greetings

The pressure must be proportional to the HEIGHT OF THE BUILDING. After all, in e.g. a high-rise building, you cannot pressurize 1.5 bar. 1 atm. (approx. 1 Bar) raises the water to a height of 10 meters, i.e. in a 10-story (i.e. 11-story) building there must be 4 kg / cm2 on the return and a bit more on the supply.

Aquarelle2011 wrote:

I am giving the right answers.

There is a problem with that. In order to give the correct hint, one must have that knowledge, or the knowledge of where to look for it.

The easiest way would be:

" in accordance with PN-B-02414, the minimum total capacity of a vessel with a hermetic gas space Vn is calculated according to the formula:
Vn = Vu * (pmax + 1) / (pmax -p)
where pmax is the maximum design pressure in bar in the vessel
while the maximum design pressure in the vessel should be taken as a pressure not greater than the allowable pressure of the installation according to PN-90 / B-01430
In the standard b] PN-90 / B-01430 it is written that:
2.13. allowable pressure - the highest value of static overpressure of the heating medium, which may not be exceeded at any point in the system. [/ b] "

A SEARCH button is installed in this forum and should be used. After clicking the query, the list of topics appears: http://poszukaj.elektroda.pl/szukaj,ci%C5%9Bniane-naczyniu-przeponowym.html
Please take advantage of this knowledge.

The pressure in the vessel is the result of the static pressure of the installation and consists in a calculation.
It is checked during annual boiler maintenance inspections or in case of failure. A breakdown is a rupture of the rubber diaphragm, which is manifested by an increase in pressure in the system and water leakage from the vessel after pressing the valve of the gas side valve.
Symptoms of damage to the vessel include an increase in pressure in the installation, leakage from the safety valve, unsealing of the installation in any place, impossibility to start the boiler.

I solved my topic and finished it 10 days ago, which I clearly wrote. Therefore, I do not know to whom this red text and the ORAL warning. I did not notice any harshness in the question of my colleague, beast 37, that there was a need to give unsavory scolding. Sometimes it happens that exhaustion and an illusory sense of power can suddenly throw itself on your health. Therefore, I once again announce that I definitively finished the topic 10 days ago and left this forum.
END OF CASE

Moderated By mirrzo:

What's the problem ? This is not the topic rather.

Not.
Bleed the pump.

I will step on the topic. I have a 19kw Metal Fach stove for wood, coal, etc. On a cold stove, I pressurize about 0.4 bar, light it, the temperature rises to about 55 degrees and the pressure rises to about 2.5 bar and water from the safety valve begins to drip. After the furnace is put out at night to 17 degrees Celsius, the pressure drops to 0. Which could be the reason. Closed system with a tank at the back of the stove, heated ground floor and first floor, vented radiators. I am asking for help because it is cold.

arni251 wrote:

I have a 19kw Metal Fach stove for wood, coal, etc. On a cold stove, I pressurize about 0.4 bar, light it, the temperature rises to about 55 degrees and the pressure rises to about 2.5 bar and water from the safety valve begins to drip. After the furnace is put out at night to about 17 degrees, the pressure drops to 0.

Open the layout! ! ! It could be BUMMM soon

mirrzo wrote:

arni251 wrote:

I have a 19kw Metal Fach stove for wood, coal, etc. On a cold stove, I pressurize about 0.4 bar, light it, the temperature rises to about 55 degrees and the pressure rises to about 2.5 bar and water from the safety valve begins to drip. After the stove is put out at night to about 17 degrees, the pressure drops to 0.

Open the layout! ! ! It could be BUMMM soon

How do I open the layout ?? Three years was good, but now something is wrong.

I will refresh a bit the topic that I read quite carefully, and from what I know, it may be the fault of a leaky valve, but I will describe the problem that occurs with me.

I will start with what I have a stove, it is already 7 years old.


It started in September, the pressure in the system always decreased slightly over time, and as it got 1 bar, I decided to let it go to 1.3 bar as always. From that moment on, the pressure in the system began to increase, and very quickly, because after approx. 8 hours it was increasing by approx. 0.4 bar. Of course, I found out about how he let go of the safety valve while the stove was heating up and it made a puddle under the stove. For some time, a few days, the pressure increased by itself at such a dizzying pace, and then slower and slower, until after about 2 - 3 weeks it increases by about 0.1 bar a day. I called a service technician, he cleaned it, of course, because he also demanded it, he pumped the air with a compressor and the same thing again, the pressure was rising very quickly for a while, until after a few weeks it became more stable and grows 0.1 bar a day. I am draining the system so far, but this is not correct.
Initially, I put on a valve that allows water into the system, but why does the pressure increase much slower with time, and the drained water seems to be slightly carbonated, the effect is similar to dissolving some multivitamin in hihi water much weaker, of course.
What will the experts tell me? I greet you all warmly

Hello and welcome.
I would also like to add to the topic, because despite reading the whole thing, I did not find an answer to my problem.
Namely, I accidentally noticed a very high pressure in the central heating system (the pressure gauge located next to the diaphragm vessel indicated 5.8 bar and the safety valve was already starting to drip). The pressure on the stove at the same time was around 1.4 bar (stove on, warm radiators). I am not an expert in the field of central heating systems, so I started looking for a possible cause. With the valve on the diaphragm vessel, I managed to reduce the pressure to 3 bar (the furnace is always the same value, it varies from 1.1 to 1.4 bar depending on the operation of the boiler) and I noticed that the pressure indicated at the diaphragm vessel drops or increases slightly when I reduce or increase the pressure from the water supply network (at the entrance to the house I have 5 bar, at the reducer to the house I currently have 3 bar). Please, give me a hint what is wrong. I have a manual for admitting water to the boiler (two ball valves with a hose). Is this a problem with the boiler or with the installation itself? Below I add a photo of a piece of the installation with a visible pressure gauge next to the diaphragm vessel. I can take a picture of the whole thing if needed. I will also mention that in the house downstairs there is only floor heating (now screwed on the thermostat so that the heat mostly goes up), upstairs in the rooms there are radiators and floor heating in the bathroom.
I will be grateful for any suggestions to check.

And it is not an expansion vessel from DHW and not from CO?
There will be pressure at least as cold water, but all this (vessel, pressure gauge and safety valve) should be behind the check valve supplying cold water to the bioler-buffer and as the water expands when heating, the pressure will increase. If you turn on hot water somewhere, will the pressure drop? If so, it's basically OK, apart from maybe the volume of the vessel (the currently active one), maybe some of the air from the vessel has escaped and effectively has a smaller capacity, so the pressure rises too quickly when heating the water.

stachu_l wrote:

And it is not an expansion vessel from DHW and not from CO?
There will be pressure at least as cold water, but all this (vessel, pressure gauge and safety valve) should be behind the check valve supplying cold water to the bioler-buffer and as the water expands when heating, the pressure will increase. If you turn on hot water somewhere, will the pressure drop? If so, it's basically OK, apart from maybe the volume of the vessel (the currently active one), maybe some of the air from the vessel has escaped and effectively has a smaller capacity, so the pressure rises too quickly when heating the water.

Yes you are right. After checking everything, it is actually CWU. But there is a complete mishmash you have done, because the vessel, pressure gauge and safety valve is on the branch from the main supply from the mains. There is no check valve. A tee is simply inserted, the outlet goes to the DHW tank, the other to the diaphragm vessel. A standard ball valve is used to shut off the water to the tank. Below are photos showing what it looks like.


I will be grateful for a diagram of the correct placement of the vessel and the corresponding valves. I'll be able to redo it then in the spring.
Kind regards.

The biggest problem from a security point of view:

lacny wrote:

A standard ball valve is used to shut off the water to the tank.

There is no right to have a valve between the tank and the safety valve - it must be a connection that cannot be blocked and of the right diameter, but I am not an installer and I will not say which valve and what pipe is required for what heating power.
The expansion vessel itself can be separated by a valve from the tank, but when the valve is closed, the increase in water volume during heating will be discharged through the safety valve.
At the vessel itself, you can give a valve - a special one for diaphragm vessels or two ball valves and a tee - it should be possible to cut off the vessel from the installation and drain the water from it to check whether the initial pressure is correct.
General sequence: ZW (cold water) - ball valve cutting off the HUW system supply - non-return valve preventing the return of hot water to cold water - tee with expansion vessel - tee with safety valve - tank inlet.
Some recommend a flow-through diaphragm vessel for utility water so that the water in the vessel mixes and exchanges, and does not "slush".
I do not know if this blue vessel is flow-through - the set requires a tee dedicated to flow-through vessels and possibly this vessel shut-off valve also in this version. This tee has such a steering wheel and part of the water stream is directed to the tank and what comes back from it is mixed with fresh water.
If you do not need the flow version, the vessel must be somewhere behind the check valve, but it can be on the side, e.g. connected by a pipe to a tee behind the check valve or even behind a tee that introduces water into the tank - it is important that it is in this part of the installation as the safety valve because it is to take up excess water.

Thanks a lot for the hint.
There is no non-return valve and in fact the water from the tank mixes with the cold network. The pipes are not cold.
Spring installation. By the way, I will check how the diaphragm vessel.

Thanks again.
Regards

Hello.
I'm going to link to the topic maybe some colleagues will know where the problem lies.
Ariston Genus boiler. The pressure is set at 1.2-1.3 and when the heating is on it goes up to 1.7 and is ok. But when the heating is switched off it doesn't go down to 1.2-1.3 but stays at 1.5. And so for several heating cycles it finally reaches over 2.5-2.9 and starts dripping water from the safety valve. I am forced to lower the pressure with the drain plug. I have checked the diaphragm vessel and it is about 1 bar

Added after 8 [hours] 43 [minutes]: .

In the thread on page 1 it says that there may be a damaged/leaking heat exchanger. Are you referring to this plate heat exchanger or the main one which is higher up in the boiler?