Welder vs Migomat: Comparing Devices for Home Use, Metal Fence & Car Muffler Welding - 230V Options

Hello.
I would like to buy one of the devices mentioned, only that I do not know much about them, so I would like to ask about the differences between a welder and a migomat; which will be better for me to home applications (I don't run any workshop)? What parameters should you pay attention to? In spring I am planning to make a fence with metal posts and pins, and I will need a device that bonds the metal. I would also like to weld the muffler in the car myself because there has been a small hole there recently. Will it be better voltage 230 V or power?
I am asking for answers.
Can something be done with such a device with such parameters?

Welding current 45-140A
The cross-section of the electrodes 1.6 - 2.5 mm
Nominal input voltage - 230V
50 Hz nominal frequency
Open circuit voltage (Uo) - 48V
Type of protection - H-IP 21
1.6: nc / nc1 - 53/53
2.0: nc / nc1 - 12/21
2.5: nc / nc1 - 8/15
insulation class H
External dimensions - 410x225x300 mm
Protection - 16 (A)

Hello. if you want to weld thin sheets, for example a silencer, a migomat will be better. I have an electrode welder up to 205 A and that's enough for me, but I usually weld with three electrodes. A bit of the current 140A may be too small but this is the charm of single-phase welders ... sure enough for you. Good luck

Can a friend know how to weld? is he going to feel?

And I would recommend Migomat as it is easier to weld for your own purposes. It is true that it is expensive to buy and maintain, but it is really worth it.

Electric is good for welding large parts.

He will only be learning I think it's nothing difficult ..

And a device with such parameters:

mains voltage - 230 / 400V
idle voltage - 48V
welding current - 65-300A
electrode - from 2 to 5mm
Duty cycle -10%
power consumption - 16.8 KVA
welding cables: quick couplings
fuse: 16A
welding current adjustment
protection class: IP21
insulation class h
cooling: fan
weight 25 kg

None of these welders can do good welding better, if you can't weld, get interested in a migomat or an inverter and such a welder (transformer) for even PLN 500, let it go, and certainly what you presented because it is a terrible crap. At 300A, it should have a 150A cycle in continuous mode, not 65A and still for 10 minutes.

Ok, but will someone finally tell me what is the difference between a welder and a migomat?

Recently, in the Biedronka discount stores there were (or maybe still are) 100A inverter welding spouts available for PLN 399, for welding with 2.5mm electrodes they are just right, moreover, 10A protection is enough for them. If you have never welded with an inverter, you will learn to weld very quickly.

Description of the individual methods of welding metals:
http://solidnydom.pl/cv_280_8879,spwanie__rodzaje_metod.htm

electrodes are used as a flux in the welder and a wire is fed with the migomat, and you have a gas cylinder, for metal co2 welding and, for example, aluminum - argon or its derivatives

Added after 2 [minutes]:

a good migomat is at least twice as expensive as a good electrode welder

Hello
For 20 years I have been working on the repair of migomats. Even a child will be welding after a while, but Welding and welding is a different story. Migomats are very good for welding, but in order to weld them well, you need to know a few regulations and only a good welder can do that. In order not to bore you, I will just give you a few values necessary for good welding 1 current 2 inductance 3 wire feed speed 4 gas flow 5 free end there is more to it! For home needlework, buy an inverter welder. 1 low price 2 simple operation 3 light weight - you shoulder and go 4 no CO2 cylinder needed 5 one setting - only current regulation 6 exploitation costs

Hello, I have an ordinary Bestera welder (for about PLN 400 from OBI) and it can be recommended for welding the fence and other home matters. Now I'm going to buy a Betser 1801 migomat because it has the right parameters for home and workshop applications. There are also protective wires that do not require a cylinder. Overall, it is a recommended migomat (at this price). If you can afford it, I suggest you buy it.

Migomat is easier to weld and it seems to me more precise.
A welder is more difficult (you have to tap the welds, for example) but it is cheaper, does not require a cylinder and has fewer things that can break.
Anyway, you can make a good weld with both, but beginners will get to migrate welding faster. The welder heats up the area of the weld more and for thin sheets (e.g. automotive) it is rather unsuitable.
For welding the fence no difference. Although probably less troublesome welding with the electrode will be due to the fact that you do not need to carry an additional cylinder. Inventory ones are the coolest because of their size.

Hello
on page : RYWAL-RHC - welding machines
everything is needed for happiness.

These are rather not cheap devices ...

greetings

In the case of electrode welders, electrodes are important, if they are of poor quality, even a good professional welder will have problems, and with decent electrodes it is much easier to weld, re-ignition is enough to touch with the coating and the welding is not sticky, it is beautifully flooded, the trail falls off by itself. I definitely recommend our Polish Bester and Spawmet electrodes, the Rutweld (with red coating) are also good, and for example, I advise against Esab, even though the more expensive welding is worse, I already had different Esabs and generally overrated this company!
Migomat is a better thing, but it's good that it has a large supply of electricity and a four-roller feeder, but in most cases, migomats are used stationary, if you want to do something in the field, it's better to have a small inverter welder + electrodes.

I recommend migomat, it is possible to use 2 types of wire as standard, 1.0mm or 1.2mm, there are also a thinner tension 0.8mm, it is also a case of migomat with a small current and with a small wire diameter, you can weld car parts without fear of burnout, the width of the weld is obtained thanks to the circular steady movements during welding. the next thing, the migomat is easier because the welding wire is through the nozzle and not 40cm from the hand in the case of the electrode.

the differences between the migomat and the electrode are that the migomat feeds the wire itself and the electrode melts, which forces us to make smooth proximity movements to the welded material

For home work, such as welding a fence, I recommend an inverter welder with a range of 100-130A. It is a device that you can weld efficiently even with a weak power supply - 10A protection is enough for welding with a 2.5mm electrode. Inverter welding machines are small, light and maintain stable electrical parameters of the arc, which makes welding easy and gives good quality welding. Migomat is more expensive, requires a CO2 cylinder or a mixture, due to its dimensions and weight it is less mobile, and a poorly stored electrode wire corrodes the surface and is useless.
The coated electrodes are a very important factor in the welding process. they must not be damp and must be of good quality.

tomiqu wrote:

Quote:

that's why I would like to ask about the differences between a welder and a migomat;

The difference between a migomag welder and an "electrode" welder (I think that's what my colleague is talking about) is very big. The advantage of "electrode" is that learning to weld is much faster than when welding in a gas shield (migomag), and the weight and size of the equipment (welder). Additionally, the welded element must be free of dirt (clean). If you will not be welding thin "automotive" sheets, but only the occasional welding of hinges - I recommend an inverter welder (welding with coated electrodes). The very selection of electrodes depends on the skill of the welder - first rutile electrodes (ER ...), then basic electrodes (EB ...).