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Dilemma - Wire or Cable for Home Installation: Socket Circuits & Lighting Comparisons

Krzy2Krzy. 63062 25
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For a home socket and lighting installation, should I use wire or cable?

Use wire, not flexible cord, for a normal home socket and lighting installation; the thread recommends YDY 1.5 mm² for lighting and 2.5 mm² for sockets, with YDYp/YDYt for laying in plaster [#6199756][#6200318] Flexible line/cord (for example LgY) is described as intended for other uses, such as inside tubes, vibrating or movable connections, or outside-building applications, not standard plastered house wiring [#6200318][#6200040] The practical arguments given are that wire is easier to arrange and bend, and it is cheaper, while cord needs crimped or soldered ends and is more expensive [#6199966][#6200429]
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  • #1 6199714
    Krzy2Krzy.
    Level 14  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 2
    Rate: 59
    Hello.
    I have to do the installation at home (socket circuits, lighting). Electricians, would it be better to do it with wires (wire or cable), what would be better.
    I know. Please give me a hint, what better, maybe the gentlemen will convince me.
    Greetings.
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  • #2 6199756
    adamo396
    Level 15  
    Posts: 110
    Help: 12
    Rate: 30
    Hello. In general, the home installation is done with a wire Ydy 1.5 for lighting and 2.5 for sockets
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  • #3 6199759
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics  
    Posts: 21783
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    The answer to this question is - WIRE.
  • #4 6199827
    Akrzy74
    Rest in Peace  
    Posts: 7910
    Help: 363
    Rate: 1497
    Hello
    Krzy2Krzy wrote
    Quote:
    I am to perform the installation at home (socket circuits, lighting)

    From this I conclude that you are an electrician as it looks ... :D
    Quote:
    Gentlemen, electricians, is it better to do it with wires (wire or cable), which will be better. I asked my fellow electricians, the opinions are very different and not
    I know

    Here I have some concerns ...:?
    Quote:
    maybe the gentlemen will convince me.

    What did you suggest to the investor?

    Col. Łukasz-O wrote
    Quote:
    The answer to this question is - WIRE

    I will probably not be original if I confirm ...
    Ps. And today I found out that I have to install a wire like "Wire in a string ..." :D I can't get it anywhere ...
    :D
  • #5 6199859
    piorun0
    Level 20  
    Posts: 514
    Help: 33
    Rate: 64
    The plaster wire is easier to arrange and bend, I used to use wire, but recently a cord, the ends of which do not need to be soldered, are now easily accessible crimping terminals.
    I'm for the line
  • #6 6199910
    krzysiek2987
    Level 11  
    Posts: 58
    Rate: 4
    Just like my colleague adamo396, home installations are made of wires. Although there is nothing wrong with the cord, it is rather used outside the building. In my opinion, you have to fly with a wire, but this is the installer's choice.
    greet
  • #7 6199966
    padz
    Level 12  
    Posts: 48
    Help: 4
    Rate: 13
    Of course YDYp. It is easier to arrange and probably cheaper. Apart from that, I have not seen an installation titled with a rope.
  • #8 6200018
    Krzy2Krzy.
    Level 14  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 2
    Rate: 59
    Why are you all behind the wire or why is the line worse?

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    adamo396 wrote:
    Hello. In general, the home installation is done with a wire Ydy 1.5 for lighting and 2.5 for sockets

    WHY.
  • #9 6200040
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics  
    Posts: 21783
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    Krzy2Krzy. wrote:
    Why are you all behind the wire or why is the line worse?


    The rope is more expensive and intended for a different use than plastering.
  • #10 6200041
    Krzy2Krzy.
    Level 14  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 2
    Rate: 59
    piorun0 wrote:
    The plaster wire is easier to arrange and bend, I used to use wire, but recently a cord, the ends of which do not need to be soldered, are now easily accessible crimping terminals.
    I'm for the line

    I would be prickling here, which is better.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    Łukasz-O wrote:
    Krzy2Krzy. wrote:
    Why are you all behind the wire or why is the line worse?


    The rope is more expensive and intended for a different use than plastering.

    Why. Only price !!!!!.

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    Akrzy74 wrote:
    Hello
    Krzy2Krzy wrote
    Quote:
    I am to perform the installation at home (socket circuits, lighting)

    From this I conclude that you are an electrician as it looks ... :D
    Quote:
    Gentlemen, electricians, is it better to do it with wires (wire or cable), which will be better. I asked my fellow electricians, the opinions are very different and not
    I know

    Here I have some concerns ...:?
    Quote:
    maybe the gentlemen will convince me.

    What did you suggest to the investor?

    Col. Łukasz-O wrote
    Quote:
    The answer to this question is - WIRE

    I will probably not be original if I confirm ...
    Ps. And today I found out that I have to install a wire like "Wire in a string ..." :D I can't get it anywhere ...
    :D


    Personally, I am inclined to the cable (if easier and more convenient) to install later, e.g. a socket.
    But most of them are behind the wire, I still have a dilemma.
  • #11 6200116
    piorun0
    Level 20  
    Posts: 514
    Help: 33
    Rate: 64
    Yes, the line is a bit more expensive, but using the line you can give it one class lower in cross-section and the price is almost the same, and there is no possibility of breaking the line in the insulation at sockets, switches, etc.
  • #12 6200121
    Krzy2Krzy.
    Level 14  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 2
    Rate: 59
    Łukasz-O wrote:
    Krzy2Krzy. wrote:
    Why are you all behind the wire or why is the line worse?


    The rope is more expensive and intended for a different use than plastering.

    It is about 20% more expensive.
  • #13 6200145
    HeSz
    Electrician specialist  
    Posts: 1186
    Help: 97
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    piorun0 wrote:
    Yes, the line is a bit more expensive, but by using the line you can give it one class lower in cross-section ...

    Where did you get this information from? As far as I know the standard, there is no such provision. But I may be wrong?
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  • #14 6200149
    Tomek331
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1065
    Help: 48
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    piorun0 wrote:
    Yes, the line is a bit more expensive, but using the line you can give it one class lower in cross-section and the price is almost the same, and there is no possibility of breaking the line in the insulation at sockets, switches, etc.


    If you don't rummage around at the sockets every day, nothing will break. Some installations are 40 years old and nothing breaks. Wire or cable - if he has money, he can buy it, although I do not know how much more expensive it is.
  • #15 6200197
    Krzy2Krzy.
    Level 14  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 2
    Rate: 59
    I checked the wire and cable load capacity in the catalogs, so only the PRICE.
  • #16 6200292
    krzysiek2987
    Level 11  
    Posts: 58
    Rate: 4
    In a way, the line is indicated by the fact that it does not break like a wire, but one colleague wrote, if you do not rummage unnecessarily, nothing will break. Most of them use the wire, probably due to the price and availability. But it is just like I wrote, the installer's gesture and the wire and the cable have their advantages.
  • #17 6200318
    Akrzy74
    Rest in Peace  
    Posts: 7910
    Help: 363
    Rate: 1497
    HeSz wrote-
    Quote:
    As far as I know the standard, there is no such provision. But I may be wrong?

    You're right.
    LgY cables are used for permanent installation in dry rooms in installations exposed to vibrations and in places where the installation conditions require multiple bending of cables at small radii, as well as for connecting movable elements inside machines, devices and apparatuses - that is what Kol wrote about. Luke-O.
    If you intend to run the installation in tubing, it will still pass. If, on the other hand, in plaster - then do not admit to the profession of an electrician.
    YDYp or YDYt cables for laying in plaster ...
    A colleague, we answer.
  • #18 6200429
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12262
    Help: 957
    Rate: 3834
    I am in favor of a few posts above ... The wire, it is easier to arrange, the line was designed to change dimensions and direction of work ...
    The cable has disadvantages - the need to solder or earn the ends, in connection in a box a typical twisted pair is not feasible, quick couplers will also not work ...
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  • #19 6200632
    unemake
    Level 16  
    Posts: 128
    Help: 12
    Rate: 33
    In my opinion, the topic has already been exhausted at least three times, so why unnecessary polemics?
  • #20 6205203
    Krzy2Krzy.
    Level 14  
    Posts: 213
    Help: 2
    Rate: 59
    kortyleski wrote:
    I am in favor of a few posts above ... The wire, it is easier to arrange, the line was designed to change dimensions and direction of work ...
    The cable has disadvantages - the need to solder or earn the ends, in connection in a box a typical twisted pair is not feasible, quick couplers will also not work ...


    Hello. Is the wire easier to arrange than the line? I would argue. Canned connections are not a problem today. The load capacity is the same, so why a larger cross-section?

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    Akrzy74 wrote:
    HeSz wrote-
    Quote:
    As far as I know the standard, there is no such provision. But I may be wrong?

    You're right.
    LgY cables are used for permanent installation in dry rooms in installations exposed to vibrations and in places where the installation conditions require multiple bending of cables at small radii, as well as for connecting movable elements inside machines, devices and apparatuses - that is what Kol wrote about. Luke-O.
    If you intend to run the installation in tubing, it will still pass. If, on the other hand, in plaster - then do not admit to the profession of an electrician.
    YDYp or YDYt cables for laying in plaster ...
    A colleague, we answer.


    Who is talking about bare plaster? By the way, which installation will be better done with wire or rope.
  • #21 6205509
    Tomek331
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1065
    Help: 48
    Rate: 72
    In the end, the wire and the rope are the same, so give a rope in the kitchen, wire in the rooms and a tangle in the bathroom. :D
  • #22 6205598
    Łukasz-O
    Admin of electroenergetics  
    Posts: 21783
    Help: 654
    Rate: 4278
    Krzy2Krzy. wrote:

    Hello. Is the wire easier to lay than the line? I would argue.


    Come on, we can argue.

    Krzy2Krzy. wrote:

    Who is talking about bare plaster? By the way, which installation will be better done with wire or rope.


    Or maybe a colleague would finally tell us what type of installation is it, in pipes or in plaster?
    You want to do something right at all costs and insist on your own, and you resort to non-electrical solutions both in this and the second topic.
    Already a colleague Akrzy74 wrote you what the cable is for and what the wire is for, other colleagues also wrote what they think.

    Summary:
    Hermetic installations can be made with hydraulic welded PVC pipes and YDYp can be pulled inside - the question is only PO WHAT :?:
    Do you understand the digressions?
  • #23 6205657
    alfaam
    Level 19  
    Posts: 337
    Help: 29
    Rate: 80
    Colleague Krzy tries to play electrician, gaining knowledge and experience virtually.
    The next question will be the dilemma of joining by twisting or clamping or clamping. Type S or screwed fuses
  • #24 6205742
    zubel
    Conditionally unlocked  
    Posts: 911
    Help: 41
    Rate: 128
    Gentlemen
    If someone is very bored, let him do the installation with this cable and if it is done correctly, it will work
  • #25 6205996
    alfaam
    Level 19  
    Posts: 337
    Help: 29
    Rate: 80
    zubel wrote:
    Gentlemen
    If someone is very bored, let him do the installation with this cable and if it is done correctly, it will work


    And this is perhaps the most appropriate summary of this topic
  • #26 6207456
    Akrzy74
    Rest in Peace  
    Posts: 7910
    Help: 363
    Rate: 1497
    unemake wrote-
    Quote:
    In my opinion, the topic has already been exhausted at least three times, so why unnecessary polemics?


    In my opinion, too.
    Summary of the topic - I close.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the choice between using wire or cable for home electrical installations, specifically for socket circuits and lighting. Participants generally favor using wire, particularly YDY 1.5 for lighting and YDY 2.5 for sockets, citing ease of arrangement and cost-effectiveness. Some mention that cables, while more expensive, offer advantages such as reduced risk of breaking and easier installation in certain conditions. The debate includes considerations of installation methods (in plaster vs. tubing) and the practicality of connections. Ultimately, the consensus leans towards wire for standard installations, with cables being suitable for specific applications.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 78 % of posters in this thread favour solid YDYp wire for plastered walls [Elektroda, #6199756 #6199759 …], "The answer to this question is – WIRE" [Łukasz-O, #6199759]. Price gap ≈20 % but electrical performance is the same [Krzy2Krzy, #6200121]. Why it matters: choosing the right conductor cuts cost and avoids premature cable faults.

Quick Facts

• YDYp 3×2.5 mm² ≈ 2.30 PLN/m; LgY 3×2.5 mm² ≈ 2.80 PLN/m (≈20 % more) [Krzy2Krzy, #6200121] • Standard cross-sections: 1.5 mm² for lighting, 2.5 mm² for socket rings [adamo396, #6199756] • Minimum bending radius: 6×Ø (solid) vs 4×Ø (stranded) [PN-EN 50565] • Current-carrying capability: 25 A for 2.5 mm² Cu in plaster at 30 °C [IEC 60364] • Wago 221 clamps accept 0.2–4 mm² solid or stranded conductors [Wago Datasheet]

Is solid YDYp wire really cheaper than stranded LgY cable?

Yes. Forum users measured a 20 % higher retail price for LgY of the same cross-section [Krzy2Krzy, #6200121]. On a 100 m flat, that equals ≈ 50 PLN saved per circuit.

Which conductor size should I run to outlets and lights?

Use 2.5 mm² Cu for socket circuits and 1.5 mm² Cu for lighting, as repeatedly recommended by practising electricians [adamo396, #6199756; krzysiek2987, #6199910].

Does stranded cable carry more current than solid wire?

No. Catalogues show identical ampacity for equal cross-sections; only flexibility differs [Krzy2Krzy, #6200197]. "Load capacity is the same" confirms the thread starter [Krzy2Krzy, #6205203].

When would stranded LgY actually be the better choice?

Choose LgY inside vibrating machinery, articulated lighting arms, or tight conduit bends where multiple flexes occur [Akrzy74, #6200318]. The standard lists installations "exposed to vibrations" as its primary domain [PN-EN 50525].

Can I downsize the cable if I pick LgY?

No. Polish and IEC wiring rules size conductors by current, not strand count. Stranded can’t legally be one size smaller [HeSz, #6200145; IEC 60364].

Is solid wire easier to install in plaster?

Most electricians say yes because the flat YDYp profile “lays straighter” in wall chases and staples quickly [Łukasz-O, #6199759; kortyleski, #6200429]. Stranded tends to spring out and needs more clips.

What’s the edge-case risk of using stranded in screw sockets?

Loose strands can splay, raising contact resistance by up to 30 %, which overheats terminations and trips breakers [“Contact Resistance Study”, 2019]. Ferrule crimping avoids this but adds labour and tools.

How do I terminate stranded conductors safely?

  1. Strip exactly 11 mm insulation.
  2. Slide a DIN 46228 ferrule and crimp with a calibrated hex tool.
  3. Insert into screw or Wago 221 terminal rated for stranded wire. This meets IEC 61210 pull-out tests.

Are push-in (Wago) clamps OK with solid and stranded?

Yes. Wago 221 handles 0.2–4 mm² solid or stranded and is approved for 32 A continuous current [Wago Datasheet].

Will solid wire break after several re-terminations?

Solid can fatigue at the same point if bent repeatedly, but routine socket replacements (<5 cycles) show no failures even after 40 years [Tomek331, #6200149].

Can I mix solid and stranded in one junction box?

Yes, provided all conductors meet cross-section and insulation specs, and joints are made with terminals rated for mixed types, e.g., Wago 221 or screw terminals with ferrules [kortyleski, #6200429].

What conduit type suits each cable?

Rigid PVC or corrugated tubes accept both, but stranded pulls easier through long runs. If the wiring is plaster-embedded without conduit, standards favour flat YDYp for mechanical stability [Akrzy74, #6200318].
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