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Cable Selection for 11m2 Attic Room Lighting: 2x1mm2, 18W Fluorescent Lamps & Wiring in Conduits

duzydiablo 50898 16
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Can I use a 2x1 mm² cable to supply two 18 W fluorescent lamps in an 11 m² attic room, and what cable and wiring method should I use for the lighting and sockets?

No—do not use 2x1 mm²; for new lighting circuits use a 3x1.5 mm² cable with PE, and for sockets use a 3x2.5 mm² cable with PE [#10326415][#10326692] For the lamps, one switched lighting circuit feeding the two fluorescent fittings is fine, but the circuit must include the protective conductor; new circuits should be made this way [#10326692][#10328840] For sockets, one circuit can serve up to 10 sockets, although fewer is better in practice [#10326847] The cable may be run in conduits/cable trays or fixed with cable holders, depending on whether the walls are already finished [#10326415] Protection for 3x1.5 mm² lighting was mentioned as up to 13 A and for 3x2.5 mm² sockets as 16 A, but the actual choice also depends on cable length and loop impedance, so that must be checked [#10326875][#10326912]
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  • #1 10326103
    duzydiablo
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    Hello
    I have a question, in the attic I have an 11m2 room built of GK inside for insulation, mineral wool used (room under construction) now I have a question because I want to connect a 2x1mm2 cable (i.e. the rigid wire) from the attic lighting cable and give this room for lighting where 2 fluorescent lamps with a power of 18 watts each will be connected. Is the cable suitable ?? The power of fluorescent lamps in my opinion is not great, so the cable should also be ok. Should the wires be placed in conduits in the wall profiles ?? And now what cables to use for contacts? There will be as many as 10 contacts. How to combine contacts with each other ?? Should I use one cable or should I use a separate one?
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  • #2 10326415
    epi92
    Level 16  
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    Hello.
    I am still a student of an electrical technical school, but from what I remember when I was working on vacation at construction sites with installations in houses and flats, the lighting allowed for the YDY PŻ 3x1.5mm cable, and for the YDA PŻ 3x2.5mm contacts. Sockets connected in series.
    If these cables are to be laid on finished walls, it is suggested in cable trays for aesthetic reasons.
    However, if the walls have not yet been finished, it is recommended to use conduits or directly to the wall with cable holders.
    Maybe I'll be an electrician too; Mr.
    Regards and a Happy New Year :)
  • #3 10326421
    lukaszpol26
    Level 19  
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    And where will the PE protective conductor be ??? It should be 3x ... mm2
  • #4 10326463
    duzydiablo
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    And this is a big disadvantage if I put it without PE ??
  • #5 10326473
    kkas12
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    It is unacceptable.
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  • #6 10326500
    duzydiablo
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    Ok, tell me if 3x1mm2 is enough for such lighting?
  • #7 10326547
    duzydiablo
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    In general, I wanted to do it so that I connect the scales to the existing cable, then to a single ordinary switch, and then to two fluorescent lamp holders.
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  • #8 10326692
    Miwhoo
    Electric installations specialist  
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    Anyway, the PE wire [yellow-green] should be connected to the energy receiver, no matter if it will be a lamp, a new socket or an industrial machine ...

    Therefore, a 3x cable should be led from a single switch, 4x in the case of a candlestick, and if the luminaire is additionally equipped with e.g. an emergency module that requires constant power supply, then a 5x cable. Cross-section and circuit protection appropriate to the power of the luminaire. According to what was written by col. Kkas12.
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  • #9 10326815
    duzydiablo
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    And one more thing for the light to give a 10A circuit breaker and 16A for sockets? Can I put 10 sockets in a row with a 3x2.5mm2 cable max ?? A maximum of 200 watts will be connected to the socket
  • #10 10326847
    wiesde
    Level 15  
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    As standard, in residential installations, up to 10 sockets on one circuit or up to 20 light outputs can be made. But it is the maximum allowed by the standards. Functionally, it is better to have fewer sockets and light outlets.
  • #11 10326856
    duzydiablo
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    And security such as I wrote ??
  • #12 10326875
    wiesde
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    Assuming that the lighting will be powered by the YDYp cable with 3 x 1.5 mm2, the fuse can be even 13A, and with the sockets powered by the YDYp cable with 3 x 2.5 mm2, it can be 16A. of course, this is largely simplified, because the cable cross-section is also significantly influenced by the length, arrangement and type of the powered installation (but what I wrote above is sufficient).
  • #13 10326912
    retrofood
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    wiesde wrote:
    Assuming that the lighting will be powered by YDYp cable with 3 x 1.5 mm2, the fuse can be even 13A


    Yes, up to two lamps !!! Some news. Interesting Buddy, how many installations have you made.

    And a colleague has heard something about the short circuit loop impedance? Because so far I do not know the length of the wires and whether sometimes even a metallic short circuit will not trigger the protection. I warn you against such advice.
  • #14 10326944
    wiesde
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    OK Colleague retrofood is right with this impedance (it is a very important criterion for the efficiency of the installation - actually determining, apart from the quality of workmanship and insulation resistance) and hence my second opinion about the conditions. In some cases, even a metallic short circuit may not trigger the redundant protection.
  • #15 10328776
    antko
    Level 12  
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    Well, what did your colleague learn about the question you asked? (if the 2x1mm2 cable is not too thin to power the light point). Various statements show that 3x1.5mm2 should be given. I would ask where to connect the PE wire (yellow and green) to the bulb holder. Nobody asked what kind (type) of power the colleague has at home (TNC or something like that), but everyone says that there should be a PE conductor. I have a cottage and only two wires go from the meter to the light sources and to the sockets, this is where I should connect this PE without replacing the installation.
  • #16 10328812
    retrofood
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    antko wrote:
    Well, what did your colleague learn about the question you asked? (if the 2x1mm2 cable is not too thin to power the light point). Various statements show that 3x1.5mm2 should be given. I would ask where to connect the PE wire (yellow and green) to the bulb holder. Nobody asked what kind (type) of power the colleague has at home (TNC or something like that), but everyone says that there should be a PE conductor. I have a cottage and only two wires go from the meter to the light sources and to the sockets, this is where I should connect this PE without replacing the installation.


    You don't have PE. So what do you want to connect?
    This is a forum for electricians and you need to have at least a minimum of knowledge to discuss.
    I close the topic.
  • #17 10328840
    kkas12
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    Where to connect the protective conductor to the holder (luminaires in protection class II) has already been explained many times and ad nauseam.
    And new circuits should be made like this.
    Cable Selection for 11m2 Attic Room Lighting: 2x1mm2, 18W Fluorescent Lamps & Wiring in Conduits
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the suitability of using a 2x1mm2 cable for lighting in an 11m2 attic room with two 18W fluorescent lamps. Participants suggest that a 3x1.5mm2 cable is more appropriate for lighting, emphasizing the necessity of including a protective earth (PE) conductor. The use of conduits for cable installation is recommended, especially if the walls are unfinished. For the sockets, a 3x2.5mm2 cable is advised, with a maximum of 10 sockets on a single circuit. The importance of circuit protection, such as using a 10A circuit breaker for lighting and a 16A for sockets, is also highlighted. Concerns about short circuit loop impedance and the need for proper installation practices are raised, along with the necessity of adhering to electrical standards.
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