djhavay wrote: That's the only reason why I have to pay 10% more for electricity on average?
But understand man, you won't be paying that much more ...
The main row bulb will take 16% more power, but will give 40% more visible light ...
you can safely turn 75W instead of 100W and you'll be "ahead" on electricity. It's just that, unfortunately, you will change bulbs 3 times more often than those with a perfectly rated voltage. And that's the only real problem you have ...
If you have 12V halogen bulbs, it is enough to add a piece of winding to the transformer and connect them in series with the primary winding.
The engines will practically take no more power from you. I don't know on what basis do you assume otherwise ... did you measure (what?)? have you been rehearsing did you have a dyno with load measurement and a high power autotransformer at your disposal?
The power consumed by the engine depends primarily on the load it is loaded with the driven machine. And it does not change due to a change in the supply voltage.
Any electronics powered by a voltage converter (i.e. the vast majority of modern electronic devices) will take you about the same power, regardless of the supply voltage ... e.g. computer monitors can be powered with the voltage from 100V to 240 + 10% V and it does not affect rated power.
All electronically stabilized discharge lamps will behave in the same way, including the so-called "energy saving light bulbs".
10% more power will be used by electronic devices, in which there is no voltage converter, only a network transformer and a stabilizer. So old radios, 30-year-old televisions, chargers for batteries, cells, etc., small power supplies "replacing" batteries in Walkmans, etc. devices with negligible power.
Heaters, electric kettles, irons, etc. will actually consume up to 21% more power, but for it in a shorter time, so you will pay the same for energy.