Economical Gas Boiler Heating: High vs. Low Radiator Supply Temperature Settings (CO)

the first quote was about the situation before the settings were changed, the second after.
I have a regulator in one room, I have a weather station and some floorstanders. I have no sensors on the radiators. The problem is precisely that he wants to be 15th. but it's -11 outside and he's still warm. Why if I do not want to, and the regulator shows 16.6?
I have one suspicion and I need someone who knows this boiler model. As the boiler is located in the basement where it is cold, it can display the temperature in the room with the controller, but the controller does not control the boiler at all. I would not want that, because it means that I burn gas for nothing, and I do not know how to check it.

Zayer2 wrote:

I have a regulator in one room, I have a weather station and some floorstanders. I have no sensors on the radiators. The problem is precisely that he wants to be 15th. but it's -11 outside and he's still warm. Why if I do not want to, and the regulator shows 16.6?

There is a suspicion that the regulator does not control the boiler, but displays the temperature. As long as you set it up well. If this is the case, the boiler can heat up according to a heating curve programmed by the installer, depending on the temperature given by the weather forecast. Is it -11 degrees heats more, -5 degrees heats less, 0 degrees even less, +5 degrees even less, +15 stops heating?
You can look in the instructions from the boiler and check if it works in the right mode. Maybe there were some problems and it works in e.g. safe mode.

if it is still under construction, then until the building is warmed up, I recommend installing a thermoregulatory valve on each radiator and turning it to 15 degrees - you will certainly have no problem because the valve will close at 15 degrees and the stove will turn off when it gets hot return.

check what minimum return temperature you have set - if it is higher than 15 degrees, the stove will be warm.
I changed it at home, because after the stove is completely turned off, the temperature in the radiators will be equal to the room temperature and the stove may have a higher temperature.

on117 wrote:

There is a suspicion that the regulator does not control the boiler, but displays the temperature. As long as you set it up well. If this is the case, the boiler can heat up according to a heating curve programmed by the installer, depending on the temperature given by the weather forecast. Is it -11 degrees heats more, -5 degrees heats less, 0 degrees even less, +5 degrees even less, +15 stops heating?
You can look in the instructions from the boiler and check if it works in the right mode. Maybe there were some problems and it works in e.g. safe mode.

I also think so from the beginning, the stove does not work in emergency mode, in any case it is not written anywhere. The problem is that I do not know how to set it to be controlled by the room regulator. I have to pick up the instructions from the installer, because the ones I have for the regulator and the stove are very short and nothing but an explanation of the symbols and settings are there. I do not know how to enter the setting mode, if any service access codes are needed, there is no such information there.

Hello forum. I use the Termet GCO-29 stove for the first season (since March 2009) with an open combustion chamber in a single-family house. Question 1: how to set the pump (there is 3-step adjustment). Top gear drops out - disturbs sleep. The lowest gear seems to be the most economical: the quietest operation, the smallest flame, the greatest difference in water temperature between the exit and the return. That's right? Question 2: should the water temperature be adjusted to CO so that the stove is turned off by the regulator as rarely as possible? I have the impression that it is better to constantly heat the water with a small flame than to allow frequent on-off cycles. Thank you.

dybas wrote:

I have the impression that it is better to constantly heat the water with a small flame than to allow frequent on-off cycles.

That's it.

Quote:

the lowest gear seems: the quietest operation, the smallest flame,

do you have a bigger flare if you have a higher gear in the pump. ??
I was a bit interested in it because I noticed at home when I was in 3rd gear
higher gas consumption, but I thought it was due to the lower temperature outside

the building's need for heating energy is important.
If it is small and the building is insulated, then a low gear is enough.
higher gear means faster water circulation and the stove has to heat the water faster, so it needs more fire.

Zayer - I do not know what your regulator is and how it works, but I will tell you how it usually works if the weather + room is installed:
"The determination of the optimal value of the CO temperature takes place in two ways
stages. The first is to determine the CO temperature resulting from
the set characteristic and the measured outside temperature. In the second stage
the difference between the set room temperature value is determined, and
measured value. The obtained result (characteristic error) corrects the calculated one
in the first stage, the CO value "
If you have access to service parameters, you usually set the value regarding the influence of the external and room sensors on the regulator.
As for the topic - the boiler is most effective when it works as long as possible. (lower chimney losses).

indoman wrote:

Quote:

the lowest gear seems: the quietest operation, the smallest flame,

Are you sure you have a bigger flame if you have a higher gear in the pump. ??
It interested me a bit because I noticed at home when I was in 3rd gear
higher gas consumption, but I thought it was due to the lower temperature outside

It seems to be the case. I draw the conclusion as a result of comparing the size of the flame for different pump settings. It is true that the switchover takes a few seconds, and I cannot measure the size of the flame. After all, it is physically like this: with a greater water flow, you need to heat a larger volume of water to the desired temperature at the same time.

torpedos78 wrote:

Zayer - I do not know what your regulator is and how it works, but I will tell you how it usually works if the weather + room is installed:
"The determination of the optimal value of the CO temperature takes place in two ways
stages. The first is to determine the CO temperature resulting from
the set characteristic and the measured outside temperature. In the second stage
the difference between the set room temperature value is determined, and
measured value. The obtained result (characteristic error) corrects the calculated one
in the first stage, the CO value "
If you have access to service parameters, you usually set the value regarding the influence of the external and room sensors on the regulator.
As for the topic - the boiler is most effective when it works as long as possible. (lower chimney losses).

I have an RGB room regulator, I don't know what my settings are and I don't know how to get to the service settings. I have the usual ones that result from the user's manual, but there is no information that interests me, i.e. how to reduce the power of the burner so that it does not always heat up to 100%, how to check whether it responds to the internal sensor or whether it can react to it first before the external one . Perhaps turn off the external at all. The topic of this thread is "How to heat more economically with gas" and my stove is set to 15 degrees Celsius. inside, it takes 22m six of gas per day. This is probably a huge amount !! I'm a bit broken. The building is indeed under construction and it is its start (commissioning on 23.12) but it is properly insulated, has tight and warm windows, there is generally no losses, at least when it comes to insulation, nothing will change except the internal doors. I do not have the heads on the radiators, deliberately so that they do not get dirty, but this will not reduce gas consumption by 45%. I followed a whole lot of similar threads, I measured the differences between the supply and return, I covered the radiators, I reduced the boiler settings (those I could, for example, regarding the temperature of the water in the boiler). The question is, what else could I do? How to enter the service settings and check which sensor is the first and according to which the stove reacts.
I would like to add that the house is warm and pleasant, the temperature is exactly as I set it (several tenths of a degree higher) on the controller and yet the flame symbol on the room controller and on the stove is lit all the time, and that's consumption. !! I will appreciate your help before I go with the bags. Let me remind you of Brotje WBS22C.

The setting of the pump has no effect on the burner output. Each electronically controlled boiler has an electronically modulated burner. Eg power min 7-9kW and max 24kW. At the start of the boiler, with a large temperature difference between the set temperature (no matter if it is 50 or 70 degrees Celsius) and the actual temperature, e.g. 25 degrees Celsius.
the burner works with maximum power, only when the water temperature reaches 7-10 degrees below the set value, the burner starts to reduce its power (modulate) in order not to exceed the set temperature, but despite the fact that it operates at the lowest power, it may exceed this temperature, then the boiler is turned off, the pump continues to run and re-ignites the burner when the temperature is lowered.
The more precisely the power is matched to the demand, the fewer boiler on / off cycles and the better the thermal efficiency of the system.
Modern boilers are equipped with electronically modulated pumps, they adjust the rotations themselves to the current resistance of the installation, especially recommended for systems with thermostatic valves, where the pressure resistance is variable.

Zayer, I wouldn't be looking for a hole in the whole place. Since this is a new building, even two seasons can make you have much bigger gas bills. The whole building is damp - it will take a while to warm up.
As for the power of the burner (for peace of mind) - measure the boiler at FULL power on the gas meter within 36 seconds. Multiply the result by 100. This way you will get how much gas the burner will consume at full power. For this you need to know that the efficiency of the boiler matters, so you take - let's say - 90% efficiency and you will come out.
Similarly, you measure at the lower power. Under no circumstances should you change the burner settings! If something is wrong, you call the service company.

I would like to share my observation after reading this topic
and ask for your opinion if I think well.

If I use a room sensor and sometimes the boiler works non-stop.
when he wants to raise the temperature at home (say 3 hours), let's say the first 30 minutes
the burner goes at full power after 1.5 h the temperature in the installation is so high that it will turn off the boiler but after a while it will turn on again because the sensor will tell it to do so as
the room temperature is still too low and the burner will start working again at full power. I think then I lose a lot of gas on it. how to avoid such situations ??

A bit naive questions

If I was malicious, I would write: Lower the set temperature to a lower temperature than outside - the stove will not turn on.

The electronics of the stove are quite primitive and have one thing in mind - to serve their Lord

You say (control) more heat, I (the stove) heats up as best I can. There is no mixing system to raise the temperature to the set value and it would stay there for a long time - the heat losses are too high - that's why the stove heats up again and again.

You can insulate the apartment so that these losses are smaller - for example, 20 cm of polystyrene on the inner wall plus brick the windows - thermos effect.

You can not cool the apartment, for example by closing the windows

Time to summarize and close the thread.
Going back to the question I asked,
Should the supply temperature to the radiators be set higher on the stove (e.g. 75degC) or better if it is lower. (I remind you, a gas combi boiler with an open combustion chamber + two-panel heaters)
Unfortunately, I can see that the topic is not simple and I did not receive a simple answer. However, I had to check other furnace settings myself, due to a failure that happened to me (leakage of the installation in the floor). I was heating all winter with the stove set to 60degC and without the night mode because this way the stove ran almost non-stop and the leakage decreased. I had to do it because when it was set to 75degC, the pressure in the installation dropped to 0bar after night. On the hot plant the leakage decreased. Unfortunately, with this setting, the efficiency of the radiators probably drops drastically. The effect is that when the house is cold, it takes longer to raise the temperature and the gas bills will be the same or even slightly higher.
Thank you and I close the topic.

Hello dear users.
I am asking you with a request because this is my first contact with this type of device.
We rented a studio apartment of 33.04 sq m with my fiancée. The source of heating in this apartment is a Viessmann Vitodens 050 condensing boiler plus a Viessmann E200 thermostat control unit. There are three radiators throughout the apartment, two in the main room and one in the bathroom. Regarding this, I have a few issues that bother me, I hope that there will be a good person who will help me out the topic a little:
At this point we are set to 40 degrees for water heating and 60 degrees for heating the house. On the control unit, we have constantly set 20 degrees in the room because we like this temperature. How would you recommend setting the gas consumption to be lower? Because, in general, we often have to go out all day and come back in the evening. Is it better then to lower the temperature on the unit to 19? Once I tried it for a long day, the apartment didn't even cool down. At this point, we have moved in 3rd, taking into account the initial heating of the apartment from 14 to 20 degrees, and hot water, we used 100m3 of gas. How do you think, is it a lot or not? Because I don't know what to think about it. How to program it so that it was as wear-free as possible? Now I reduced it to 50 degrees on the stove, so I have the impression that the stove turns on more often and wears out more. Could someone help?
Thank you in advance for your help
greetings
Kamil

General rules and advice on how to optimally set up a gas boiler. A guide for novices https://czips.pl/jak- Optalnie-ustawic-kociol-gazowy/