What is the optimal condensation temperature for a CO furnace?

Hello.
As the topic...
I searched the forum but did not find a clear answer. I know that condensation in the oven takes place at a maximum temperature of 57 degrees C.
However, I would like to know at which lowest temperature the condensation effect occurs?
The second issue is whether the condensation temperature is to be at the return or exit of the furnace?
Thank you very much in advance for your answers.

For condensation to occur, the temperature on the return to the boiler must be lower than the so-called dew point around 57 ° C.

The lower the flow temperature, the lower the return temperature.
The lower the return temperature, the better.

... so it's best not to heat at all hehe

the optimal temperature for condensation is 55/35 at t 20

Nonsense. The optimal one is that there will be no more than 57 degrees on the return. The fewer the better.

Hello
And as if let go back through some "refrigerator" then the flow temperature could be maintained, e.g. 80 ° C, and the return cooled to obtain condensation. When someone has an old installation, i.e. designed to power, for example, 90 or 75 degrees C and assembles a condensing boiler ...

Heh the energy losses will be greater than you would be feeding with a lower temperature.

Hello!
This is my first post on this forum and maybe I can gain some valuable tips.

I mean setting the temperature of the condensing furnace - how much to set the central heating temperature? Everyone says that it should be lower than 57C on the return - I have 42 at the exit of the furnace and 38-40C on the return. I do not know if I have well-chosen heaters - the temperature at home is about 20-21C, gas consumption in the last 2 weeks - 60m3 - I still heat it with this hot water heater. All in all, it has been warm recently and I do not know what the gas consumption will look like in the winter. Should I combine something with this stove or not - this is my first heating season and I do not know if it is OK. I wonder if it is better if the heaters were to turn on for a shorter time but were hot or, as I have now - they only get slightly warm, but they probably heat up longer.
I would like to point out that my installation specialists ignored the matter and left the factory settings - I had hot water at 65C and I think about 60C on the stove.

Do you have a weather forecast?
How it will take care of the water temperature in which the temperature on the supply varies between 40 and 50 degrees.
For a month now, I also use an average of 4 m3 of gas (heating, hot water and gas cooker). Heated area of 120 m2. WOLF CGW 11/100 boiler

Hello.
I have a Dietrich condensate (so far without the weather) and my supply temperature is set to 39 degrees. At home, 22 days and night, around 21.6.
The condensate is pouring down a lot, from time to time I watch the tube coming out of the boiler.

I have about 4.5-5 m? of gas per day at 0 ° C outside. New building 120m?

In fact, I would like to clarify this with this combustion.
I have so much time to prepare dinner, lunch and hot water, and the central heating turns on at night around 1 (to heat up according to the thermostat, and in the morning it would be nice to walk on the warm floor choosing the kid to kindergarten and us to work). During the day, the boiler does not turn on because the building does not lose heat.

I don't think I can say that the stove does not burn very much, because it burns properly. Good insulation is enough that the stove does not have to be turned on often, which affects combustion.

I read somewhere on the forum that the average gas consumption is 0.6 m3 per hour.
With my 13 oversized radiators and 2 underfloor heating circuits, it burns about 1 m3 per hour. It takes 3 hours and 3 cubic meters of CO.


Forum users who write about their buildings with no insulation, let's say 150 m? and burning 3.6m? while outside -10, and at home 21, probably add some color.

Sorry for the little OT.

a piercing I also heat the first season, it turns out that you eat 4.28 cubic meters a day. I think this is a good result.
I also had factory settings and at the beginning it charged me 10 cubic meters a day with pluses outside. And a few days passed before I set a lower supply temperature. And a few zlotys went to the chimney

I have a weather station, but I don't know what I need it for ?? I do not know how to turn it on because if I set the temperature on the boiler myself, it is probably not turned on ?? But I'm going to read in a moment. So I understand that I should increase the CO temperature a little ?? Oh - one more thing - I have 3 floor heating circuits - I did not notice that it ever turned on - do you need to bleed it somehow or some thermo valves ??
I have about 140m2 for heating and a Saunier Duvale MCR24II stove

Hello

I'm getting stuck a bit on the "off topic."

Condensing furnaces to work economically need a properly oversized radiator installation and when replacing the furnace with a condensing one (in older houses) it turns out that the heaters must increase the supply temperature, e.g. to 65 degrees Celsius, and the whole idea of condensation and savings goes to the "forest".

Replacing and buying new, properly oversized radiators is enough
large expense and, to theorize, if the loops of the copper 15 i tube were connected to the heater return
let go at the skirting board.

Theorizing further - what length would the loop have to be (1 kw as many meters)
etc ... etc. What do you think is a solution.
best regards

It depends on the type of fuel, of course.

For natural gas fired boilers the return temperature is below 57 degrees.
For heating oil below 45 degrees.

best regards

Zloty60 wrote:

, it burns about 1m? per hour. It takes 3 hours and consumes 3 cubic meters. Only CO

Zloty60 wrote:

I have the supply temperature set to 39 degrees.

It is contradictory and physically impossible that the boiler, operating at such low power, consumes 1 m3 per hour.

przeklusek wrote:

I have a weather station, but I don't know what I need it for ??

No comments ...

przeklusek wrote:

Oh - one more thing - I have 3 floor circuits - I didn't notice that it ever turned on

You need to configure everything as it should be, it's best to call a specialist.

pief wrote:

Condensing furnaces to operate economically require an appropriately oversized radiator installation

G .. true. I have undersized and so far it has been condensing me all the time.

Colleagues, if someone had an old house with cast iron radiators and then insulated it, it can automatically lower the supply temperature of the radiators by about 10-15 * C and after all, it is the right time to install condensate because the heaters for the insulated building are already oversized the boiler will condense nicely on a large volume. The cost of replacing the heaters is dropped.

Brencik wrote:

Zloty60 wrote:

, it burns about 1m? per hour. It takes 3 hours and consumes 3 cubic meters. Only CO

Zloty60 wrote:

I have the supply temperature set to 39 degrees.

It is contradictory and physically impossible that the boiler, operating at such low power, consumes 1 m3 per hour.

What is contradictory and physically impossible?
So it burns for me and that's it.

What am I wrongly positioned then?
The printout from commissioning is book-like and agrees with the manufacturer's data provided in the manual. CO? = 8.8% at full and minimum power.

Greetings

I started with the settings for the floor heating. I have a floor heating system. I set the supply to 40 ° C and the heating curve - weather forecast, taking into account the temperature inside the reference room. During the weather, he overheated the rooms. I'm waiting now. For now, it turns on rarely but works longer. I guess that's what condensation is about. If it does not work in frost, I will give a higher supply temperature and correct the heating curve.

But it is the heat curve that determines the flow temperature.

The task of the weather forecast is to change the supply temperature taking into account the outside temperature.

And how much we want to have in the room, set on the controller.

The boilers have a weather function, a mixed function (takes into account the external and internal temperature) or taking into account only the internal temperature. rooms. Mixed is cool because using ext. additional heat source, e.g. fireplace, boiler is not working. This is how it works for me. Earlier, in the clean weather itself, he overheated my rooms when I was smoking in the fireplace.

Of course, the heating curve controls the flow temperature, but in the boiler it is possible to rigidly set the flow temperature not to be exceeded. That is why I wrote that I will correct it if necessary, as well as the supply temperature.

Taking into account the temperature in the room consists only in changing the supply temperature by a few melts when the temperature
"The room influence is only active when
The BM programming module is installed as a module
remote control and user level
room influence has been set.
The room influence function can be changed
room temperature due to heat or winter
from outside (e.g. solar radiation, fireplace
or an open window) will be aligned. Temperature
room is compared with the setpoint
temperature (day temperature or economy temperature)
by means of the built-in temperature sensor
rooms. Deviation from the setpoint
is multiplied by the heating curve value and the coefficient
room influence and flow temperature
will be increased by this value.
smaller room influence factor = smaller
influence on inlet temperature
greater room influence factor = large
influence on inlet temperature "

Exactly. I agree with everything you wrote.

So I still do not know anything - you need to call a specialist - he will click 4 buttons on the stove several times and delete PLN 200 - and I will still not be sure if it is well set ...
Does anyone know a good specialist from the vicinity of Tarnów (Lesser Poland). In order not to do advertising, I am asking for info on priv. Przeklusek(_at_)wp.pl

przeklusek wrote:

So I still don't know anything

\
Read instructions and think!

slavuta ... and what is this cauldron?

kasku97 wrote:

slavuta ... and what is this cauldron?

I have a single-function DeDietrich MCR / II 24T stove with a 100l domestic hot water tank, without weather, with a room regulator.

I have 6 oversized radiators + two underfloor heating circuits (ultimately, heating in the attic to be connected).
In total, the ground floor is about 100m to be heated at the moment (the building is not yet insulated)

Now, at around zero outside temperature and setting the furnace at 45C outlet, and at 37C on the return, it burns about 5-5.5m a day. Home temp 20C-21C.

Previously, the furnace was set to output 40C but it worked for a long time. Gas consumption was similar but it was warmer outside.

I wonder if the stove works for a long time at a lower temperature (40C) or shorter at a higher temperature (45C), but it often turns on?

I have wondered about it once. Now I can say that longer work and fewer starts are definitely better. The lower the outlet and return temperatures, the higher the efficiency and the lower the gas consumption. The stove does not like frequent starts. Longer cycles don't hurt it as much as frequent starting. Thermal comfort is much greater when the radiators are still but moderately warm than rarely hot. The heater is not only convection, but also radiant heat. For an underfloor heating system, the best solution is a cooler, continuous power supply - high inertia. Just do not go too far with lowering the temperature because at some point the stove will no longer maintain the temperature in the rooms.

kasku97 wrote:

Just do not go too far with lowering the temperature because at some point the stove will no longer maintain the temperature in the rooms.

Not just a boiler.
The larger the radiators, the lower the heating curve can be.

You're clinging to Brencik

No, a dog is also not a cat and a tram is not a bus. This is obvious.