stomat wrote: Since you have MAX.60W written, you can screw a maximum of 60W. I don't know what my friend doesn't understand here. Halogens do not get hotter than any other light bulb. They have a higher efficiency, so they heat up LESS than a traditional light bulb.
stomat wrote: How can a higher efficiency source heat up more? How?
Or maybe the halogen filament has a higher temperature?
Old subject, but recently I went through it myself when buying a new pendant lamp. The key to this problem is the heating of the bulb and the material from which the thread in the lamp is made and whether it is directed downwards or upwards (heat transfer). New lamp, 40W max sticker on the housing, plastic e27 thread, I put a Philips ECO 42W halogen (I have many of them, it looks like a regular bulb, available e.g. in a ladybug). After about 30 minutes from lighting, you can feel a chemical burn, the lamp ticks, clicks, and then it is turned off until it cools down. The thread is stuck and you will not twist the bulb. In other lamps (hanging with a bulb down) I have a 60W max mark and there are the same Philips halogen lamps only 72W and nothing happens but the housing elements
are made of porcelain . A standing lamp, shining up, a sticker 40W max, a plastic thread with a Philips 42W halogen lamp lights up and nothing happens.
So when replacing a light bulb, it is worth following the warning sticker (using a traditional light bulb) or replacing it with a compact fluorescent lamp or LED - unless someone has a migraine and this type of lighting (even the latest generation of non-flickering LEDs) causes attacks. Eco-paranoids from the EU have banned normal light bulbs because their operating costs are expensive, and they did not take into account that the cost of producing a fluorescent or LED lamp is much greater and more energy-consuming than the combined cost of production and lighting of an ordinary "bulb" ...