Switching from 10W 12V Halogen Bulbs to LED: Is It Possible Without Fixture Replacement?

Hello!

Maybe this is a stupid question, but is it possible to replace halogen lamps with normal LEDs?

I am renting a flat, where the main lighting consists of approx. 30-40 halogen bulbs, 10W each, powered by 12V.
The lights give practically zero, and the electricity is definitely more consuming compared to the LEDs. Not to mention the fact that these bulbs are dying like flies and need to be replaced quite often. Oh - and they make noise :-)

Currently, the apartment looks like it was lit by a soft "night" light in the evening.

Can these bulbs be replaced with LED SMB or, if necessary, DIP, without replacing the entire chandelier?

These are my bulbs:
http://www.elektrowat.eu/files/zarowka-halogenowa-jc-10w-12v-g4.jpg

If it can be replaced with LEDs, under what password should I look for matching ones?

Thank you in advance for your help

G4 is a type of cap / fastening, examples: https://www.google.pl/search?q=LED+12V+g4&cli...=X&ved=0ahUKEwi4j_rPvM3KhXrB5rBHXHUACoBHXRIB5

Thank you very much!

Subject to be closed

Will we still see it until closing Replace first ... maybe you will come back in the forum later to describe the problems

BatSk8 wrote:

Can these bulbs be replaced with LED SMB or, if necessary, DIP, without replacing the entire chandelier?

It all depends on the power supply / transformer used and the voltage of the AC / DC LEDs

Unfortunately, I have no idea what the power supply is and whether it is AC or DC.

I suspect that it is a normally connected chandelier to a 12V AC network (it's a new building and the sockets in the bathroom are 12 V, probably the light too), or possibly it has some built-in power supply.

These halogens are under 12 V, I was looking for LEDs also for 12V, but I just did not know what to take.
LEDs that work only with direct current are the cheapest, while AC / DC is a much higher cost.

The question is whether, if I take LEDs prepared for 12V AC / DC compatible, they should work without a problem? This should be a safe option, whether it's DC or AC.

There should be no problems with the power alone, because the watts will come out less than in the case of halogens.

For now, I will order a smaller quantity and if everything is OK, I will buy more.

I also have to understand that when buying LEDs, for example, 4 W, which have, for example, 28 or more SMB LEDs, these 4 W are the sum, because each of these SMBs will probably not have 4 W?

As I mentioned, I don't know myself All I know is that halogen lights don't work in this case.

BatSk8 wrote:

I suspect that this is a normally connected chandelier to a 12V AC network (it's a new building and the sockets in the bathroom are 12 V, probably the light too)

You can suspect it. Take the meter and measure it, or you will be disappointed.
Lighting and sockets in the bathroom for 12V

The owner talked about "safe" 12V sockets in the bathroom, I repeat what I heard.

I don't have any measuring equipment. It's easier for me to buy a few LEDs for a trial and check, since it cannot be predicted otherwise.

Take out all the bulbs and leave 1, check if it lights up?

Zbigniew 400 wrote:

Take out all the bulbs and leave 1, check if it lights up?

I checked, 1 is lit. What does it mean?

That you have a transformer and you need to buy 12V ac. Leds. Wojnarowscy companies, 2-year warranty /.

They can be. Check whether gu 5,3 shaft can be used.

I doubt that rather large bulbs will not look good there, and they may not fit. It's a crystal-like chandelier, hence a lot of light bulbs.

If you want it to sacrifice a little, do not exceed 2W of power, 4W is a lot of warmth, in a small housing with a g4 handle, this is ordinary LED cooking.

I will stick to the topic so as not to assume another one.
I have a chandelier with 12 V halogen bulbs and I would like to replace them with LEDs.
The question is whether the power supply as shown in the picture is appropriate for LEDs or does it need to be replaced?

It will do the best if the new light sources are adapted to be powered by alternating current, i.e. AC.

OK, thank you very much.

I bought some 2W and some 3W. All AC / DC.

Generally, there is space for 19 bulbs in one chandelier.

And now like this:
- Putting only one 2W LED is OK,
- Putting one 2W and one 3W both shine well for half a second and then dim to about 50%,
- Putting all the LEDs (19), everything shines cool at 100% and the effect is MUCH better than with halogens, but ... the LEDs flicker gently,
- By inserting only one type of LEDs, e.g. 10 LEDs of 3W (leaving the rest of the G4 inputs empty), the LEDs flicker quite strongly.

The question is where does this flickering come from and is it harmful to the LEDs? Ie. can they burn through it or something?

Why are there different effects depending on the configuration? Is it necessary to calculate some appropriate power or distribution of LEDs?

edit

One "slot" G4 was still free, I bought too few LEDs for test. I added halogen there and nothing flashes anymore.

In the second chandelier, where there are fewer entrances (only 10), 4 LEDs did not work at all - they lit for a fraction of a second and turned off. As I added all 10 of it all works.

Probably a matter of the chandelier itself. I will buy the missing LEDs and it should be OK.

You don't have any brightness regulator attached to this chandelier? It's always better to ask
If you have a 12 V power supply, connect one 2 W and 3 W socket to it, you will see if it is a problem of light sources or power supply, although it may be that the two do not get along with the other.
What is the power source in the chandelier, ordinary transformer or electronic (converter)?

The test given by the user Zbigniew 400 shows that it is an ordinary transformer.

In any case, it looks like everything is OK when I have the whole chandelier filled with LEDs of the same type. I'll do the rest and it should be OK.

At the moment, the missing LEDs are replacing halogens and the effect is great, it is at least 2 times brighter. When I list all the LEDs, it should be even better :)

It's great that it could be done without replacing the chandelier.

The test given by my colleague Zbigniew 400 shows that you have 12 V in the chandelier, but it does not specify what is the source of this voltage. But never mind, starting to write the previous post, I did not know that the whole thing is working properly. Nevertheless, I am curious why this phenomenon occurs, whether it is the fault of the LED holders or the power supply of the chandeliers.

Hiding anything from the basket is priceless

I bought the rest of the CCD LEDs to prevent flickering.

Unfortunately, the LEDs flicker sometimes, i.e. the light dims slightly and brightens again quickly. Normally, nobody will notice it, but it certainly affects the comfort.

Flickering is there, sometimes it's gone. Sometimes the light is constant for a long time from the beginning of switching on, sometimes it flickers immediately, and then it stabilizes and so on from time to time.

Oddly enough, even expensive CCD bulbs also have this problem. All bulbs have the same W and are AC / DC.

It's OK with halogens. Interestingly, in the other chandeliers, where I have, for example, only 8 light bulbs, when all LEDs are connected, e.g. 2W, they go out immediately after lighting. One of the bulbs MUST be halogen for this chandelier to shine.
Is it too low power required and the power supply turns off? Could what else be the reason?

In general, there is no tragedy, it is much brighter, but for the approx. PLN 400 spent on light bulbs, I expected a stable light source :|

I would like to add that the bulbs are of different companies and types (different SMD and COB), but even putting one type of light bulb in one chandelier does not change anything.

Overall, the LED on the G4 is probably not the best idea.

In the other chandeliers you have to replace the power supplies / for leds /. You have halogen power supplies that require a minimum load, so there must be one halogen.

That's why I wanted you to make sure what the power source is, if you have electronic converters there, replace them with ORDINARY TRANSFORMERS, those wound with copper wire.

What about the main one? It is from the same "series" (although a different model), but when I put all the LEDs in, it lights up without halogens. Even one LED lights the same (but then somehow weaker).
Is the power supply also good for nothing?

Where can I find these power supplies? I have to take the chandeliers off and they'll be hidden somewhere?

Basically the whole idea was not to interfere with the apartment at all, but to replace the light bulbs themselves

It's best to take photos of the power supplies.

In this case, the transformer is at the very ceiling.

Your main chandelier may have a less whimsical power supply model.

Thanks, the power supplies were actually under the ceiling and they are actually electronic halogen power supplies.

I am attaching a photo of this low-noise power supply that does not allow the LEDs to light up without halogens.

I have the green light for replacement.

Now the questions:
1. What kind of power supplies to buy instead?
2. How to remove / install it? Turn off the plugs and just unscrew, replace the +/- cables and it's ready?

zasilacz_h..gen.jpg (101.81 kB)You must be logged in to download this attachment.


I would like to add that there are 5 chandeliers (from A to E), in this configuration:

A) 18 x 3W LED
B) 21 - mixed 3W and 2W LED
C) 10 x 3W LED
D) 10 x 2W LED
E) 5 x 3W LED

If I'm counting correctly, each power supply must have at least:
A) 54W
B) ~ 54W
C) 30W
D) 20W
E) 15W

All bulbs are AC and DC compatible, that's the only one I bought.

What if the power supply is too weak? What if it's too strong?
What terms to look for on Allegro?

It's best to buy transformers / failure-free /. Oversize approx. 30% or more.

You mean something like this?
http://allegro.pl/transformator-do-led-12v-0-50w-4-3a-24gwar-zamel-i5729748961.html