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Cold Engine Valve Knocking: Opel Corsa A '91, 1.2s 12NV Engine - Causes & Solutions (90 chars)

virus_lx 67405 14
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  • #1 774923
    virus_lx
    Level 17  
    As in the topic, the valves are knocking (patting) on a cold engine, it looks like this: the car stands under the block overnight and when it starts, after about 5-10 seconds they start to tap the valves, they stop after about 3-4 minutes. Everything is OK on a warm engine. Auto Opel Corsa A 91r 1.2s 12NV engine the valves do not set, only cassators, oil changed not all 1000 km ago. What could be the reason.
    Many thanks in advance. Regards
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  • #2 775070
    zodiak318
    Level 34  
    In my opinion, the hydraulic tappets are already sitting down. But I wouldn't make a tragedy because if they fade away after heating, it's not that bad yet. If they were patting on a warm one, it was worse.

    PS If it happened after changing the oil (it was quiet), maybe you changed the type of oil and this one has different parameters (density, viscosity) and they started to tap and the earlier oil "made" the valves in the pushers better.
    greetings.
  • #3 775150
    virus_lx
    Level 17  
    All in all, they started now, but I did not notice exactly when it was possible that, after the change, I used the Mobil1 15W40, now I poured Lotos, probably City 15W40, both mineral. Does it make sense to use any thickeners? Moto doctor or something like that?
    Regards
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  • #4 775168
    zodiak318
    Level 34  
    In my opinion (maybe someone has a different opinion) if after warming up the engine they become quieter, so far I would not worry too much. I do not want to advertise anything here, but I have a folder of "enriching agents" for oil and I can see a special agent for silencing the hydraulic tappets. http://www.liquimoly.pl/new/do_olejow.php second from the top.

    Regards.
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  • #5 775479
    gracus7
    Level 26  
    do not pour anything !!!
    apparently the lotus is a bit thinner and flows into the oil pan 100% all night long
    and in the morning, when you start a cold engine, before the pump draws the oil up
    on the head and distribute it, it takes a few minutes and then you can hear the valves!
    therefore, sharp gassing on a cold engine is not advisable.
    greetings
  • #6 775808
    kgflanela
    Level 17  
    I don't know about synthetic, but the mineral lotus is a failure in my opinion. In the AX 1.4D I dropped after 4000 km after heating it was so thin that it ran off the measuring cup like water (I had to replace the sealants), the poldek immediately started to sweat like stupid and I could not cope with it until the oil change, the same with my friend in cadet. Sorry it was a bit off-topic, but when I hear about a problem after flooding LOTOS, something moves me! :evil:
  • #7 775819
    000andrzej
    Level 37  
    I had a similar one in Cinkuś 900. They told me on the website that it was a normal thing and that you can ride with it. Only one was snapping at me. If necessary, sets are exchanged. As for Lotos, I have been pouring semisynthetics for some time and I am satisfied. I don't feel the difference.
  • #8 777279
    virus_lx
    Level 17  
    So the only method is to replace the oil with a better one.
    As for these thickeners, does it make sense to pour something like I don't care about oil anyway? What is worse for the engine is tapping on the ear in the morning or such a thickener.
    Thanks a lot for the answers.
    Regards
  • #9 777513
    juchaskisylwia
    Level 12  
    the lotus is death for the engine, I propose from the cheaper ones, the elf has very good parameters, best regards !!!
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  • #10 778534
    000andrzej
    Level 37  
    virus_lx wrote:
    ... So the only method is to replace the oil with a better one.
    As for these thickeners, does it make sense to pour something like I don't care about oil anyway? What is worse for the engine is tapping on the ear in the morning or such a thickener ...
    Regards


    If oils with thickener were better - they would be produced. And since it is not produced as standard, I would be careful with topping up. In the past, thickeners with Teflon balls were popular. In my 20-year-old Skoda (mileage 120,000), the compression improved for some time, but I still had a renovation. It was a shame to spend the money. In these newer engines, you will improve one thing - other parameters will deteriorate. Just like my colleagues suggested - good oil, and if it flaps all the time - replacement of the pushers.

    Another thing is that one of the previous speakers wrote that if the oil is thin, it drips and before it spreads, it can pat. If you add a thickener, it will take longer for it to spread. The temperature of the oil also does its job (it is thinner).
  • #11 778757
    mczapski
    Level 40  
    I would like to be mistaken, but with this density this something does not suit me. Since the phenomenon occurred after changing the oil, it may turn out that the present oil has dissolved the sediment in the engine channels that could have clogged the flow. In this case, the inflow to the head. I don't know the engine design details, so I can't write about them. Otherwise, if the engine is used frequently, the pump must deliver oil after a few seconds of engine operation. But maybe I'm wrong.
  • #12 778764
    Tombou
    Level 14  
    right, and by the way, I have a question gentlemen, the mineral lotus, as I noticed, also becomes a bit too thin at the temperature, I would need a more dense, some experience? if someone saw the differences, please answer, I do not want to start a new topic :)
  • #13 778872
    000andrzej
    Level 37  
    mczapski wrote:
    ... Since the phenomenon occurred after the oil change, it may turn out that the present oil has dissolved the sediment in the engine channels that could clog the flow. In this case, the inflow to the head ...

    I also had similar symptoms as I wrote before, and at 20,000. I thought similarly, but the mechanics tried to convince me that it had nothing to do with it. It's just that the pusher (one) has a play - so they said - and you have to wait or replace the set. I drove on such a knocking 20 thousand more. before I sold the car.
  • #14 780735
    guzik777
    Level 12  
    and I have an audi 2.3 and something I also knock once, I do not think that one pusher has no regola when
  • #15 845317
    kancior
    Level 12  
    Hello, I just changed the oil in my BMW I bought a car in Germany, the exchange was like 13,000,000 ago and in 2002, after changing the oil, I have a problem, the valves started knocking, I poured him 10w / 40 half synthetic and pat
    worst of all, I live in Germany and dear help mechanics
    tomek
    gg 6923676 invisible all the time mail tomaszkantyka(_at_)op.pl
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the issue of cold engine valve knocking in an Opel Corsa A '91 with a 1.2s 12NV engine. Users suggest that the knocking may be due to hydraulic tappets failing to maintain pressure when cold, which resolves after the engine warms up. Concerns were raised about the recent oil change from Mobil1 15W40 to Lotos City 15W40, with some participants noting that the latter may be thinner and could contribute to the problem. Recommendations include avoiding oil thickeners, as they may exacerbate the issue by delaying oil circulation. Users also shared experiences with different oil brands, indicating that some oils, like Lotos, may not perform well in older engines. The consensus leans towards using higher quality oil to mitigate the knocking and considering the replacement of hydraulic tappets if the issue persists.
Summary generated by the language model.
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