Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?
Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tamciuqu wrote:The conduit works the most.
You can use pvc tubing.
What kind of cable is it and how it will go straight with bends, etc. Will you need to replace it, because you can always flood the bare cable.
Miwhoo wrote:Overhead or earth connection?
I always gave all cables flooded in the floor in a conduit ...
ciuqu wrote:So there will be some cables. In general, when it comes to cable protection, you do not have to let go of anything, interchangeability: when they go under the polystyrene, then nothing, because when replacing, you will tie the new one to the old one and pull it, it will not stick to the polystyrene and it will always carve a new path.
Miwhoo wrote:In general, installation cables are suitable for laying in plaster, so also in the floor.
Miwhoo wrote:I always give everything on the floor in a conduit, due to the disrespect of my work by the rest of the teams working on the construction site ...
Miwhoo wrote:I will only add that sometimes it is easier to dig under the footing and pull the cable out in the building ...
darekas wrote:And if a cable like a live one heats up a lot and how much heat it gives off
darekas wrote:and how much this heat is generated
pavulon wrote:If you put the cable according to of the project, assume that it has been matched to the load so that it does not heat up.
Quote:If someone thinks that they will get the cable out of the pipe in x years, good luck, Smile
Miwhoo wrote:
I will only add that sometimes it is easier to dig under the footing and pull the cable out in the building ...
I do not agree, it is easier to drill the strip footing and insert the cable. However, there is nothing to think about, each building is different.
] and I do not want to break the bench, I will order him to dig in the ground until the bench ends ... in some cases it is justified, something else, when you have to dig 2m deep under the bench ...Miwhoo wrote:(...) The cable can be pulled out, you only need to use a rope, not a wire, but then a smooth PVC pipe instead of a conduit. (...)
Rarely, the approach can be made in a straight line, and if it can, the client does not want to 
Quote:What, apart from the conduit, should be used for the main power cable going to the switching station in a single-family house.
What works best?
andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:And as usual, the topic (and the problem) has grown to a large size, and in practice, with proper installation, you will NEVER replace this cable, and when this happens, the entire installation will be destroyed.
In polystyrene, you do not have to hide it in anything, just make a gap in the first layer of polystyrene (two layers 2X5cm are recommended in this case).
After laying the polystyrene, the screed is usually done quickly (most often it is done by a team of masticators - 90% of cases), so only make sure that the work is done properly. There is no reason to use any extra special materials here.
If you start experiencing each installation in this way, you will run out of strength and funds, and I know what I am talking about, because I built my house and often do "something" with other fresh investors and I always see oversensitivity at the beginning, and at the end - discouragement in these issues.
Jola72 wrote:
Unfortunately, I cannot agree with this statement ... "there are no jokes with the current" Each cable embedded in the floor should have an additional cover according to the Polish standard, I recommend Mr. Markiewicz's "bible of electricians" "Electrical Installations"
I hope that I have replied exhaustively
Jola72 wrote:It is not specified, although the cover should be matched to the conductor cross-section, it can be a PVC conduit, there are metal conduits with internal PVC insulation, PVC pipes An additional cover protects the cable against mechanical damage, against abrasion of the insulation, etc. different types of guides are used
ele_pp wrote:Hello.
It had to be written clearly - channels. Because the trays are not channels, although Legrand offers solid floor trays, but they are plastic.
Perhaps BAKS also offers one, but I haven't checked it.
TL;DR: 74 A long-term ampacity for a 5 × 16 mm² cable means “16 mm²—forget about cable heating” [Elektroda, Miwhoo, #7943287; Elektroda, ciuqu, #7941881]. Use ≥320 N conduit or Arot pipe to avoid crushed insulation. Why it matters: Correct mechanical protection prevents costly floor demolition in the future and keeps installations compliant with Polish standards.
• YDY 5×16 mm² copper cable: 74 A continuous rating [Elektroda, Miwhoo, post #7943287] • Conduit compression class: ≥320 N per EN 61386-24 for floor screeds [“Conduit Standard”] • Superflex 750 N conduit resists 0.75 kN load; costs ≈2-3 €/m [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #8013736] • Arot DVR corrugated pipe Ø50–75 mm, blue, ~4-7 €/m [Arot Datasheet, 2024] • PN-HD 60364: cables in floors require mechanical protection [Markiewicz, 2008]
