Power Cable Conduit Alternatives for Single-Family House Switching Station - Polystyrene & Spout

Question

What, apart from the conduit, should be used for the main power cable going to the switching station in a single-family house.

What works best?

The cable will lie on the chick and it will be covered with 10cm of polystyrene and 6cm of the spout.

ciuqu · Answer

The conduit works the most. You can use pvc tubing. What kind of cable is it and how it will go straight with bends, etc. Will you need to replace it, because you can always flood the bare cable.

Miwhoo · Answer

Overhead or earth connection? I always gave all cables flooded in the floor in a conduit ...

darekas · Answer

I asked for a 5x16mm2 cable as the main cable, but in fact there are also 5x4mm2 2 wires, 5x2.5mm 1 wire, and 3x2.5mm2 2 wires. So it has accumulated a bit. Cables run 2.4 meters straight, then break 90 degrees and the switchboard is soon Added after 43 : Ground connection

Miwhoo · Answer

In general, installation cables are suitable for laying in plaster, so also in the floor.
I always give everything on the floor in a conduit, due to the disrespect of my work by the rest of the teams working on the construction site ...

Remember to seal well the place where the cable passes from the connector through the wall [bench]. I will only add that sometimes it is easier to dig under the footing and pull the cable out in the building ...

ciuqu · Answer

So there will be some cables. In general, when it comes to cable protection, you do not have to let go of anything, interchangeability: when they go under the polystyrene, then nothing, because when replacing, you will tie the new one to the old one and pull it, it will not stick to the polystyrene and it will always carve a new path.

darekas · Answer

And if a cable like a live one heats up a lot and how much heat it gives off

Łukasz-O · Answer

Truth. Exactly and just for that. If someone thinks that they will get the cable out of the pipe in x years, good luck :) I do not agree, it is easier to drill the strip footing and insert the cable. However, there is nothing to think about, each building is different.

ciuqu · Answer

Depends on how much current you take, 16mm; forget about cable heating. No matter how you let go of the cable, if it is suitable for the power, its heating is important. More heat, more energy loss.

pavulon · Answer

If you put the cable according to of the project, assume that it has been matched to the load so that it does not heat up.

remik_l · Answer

You can use a blue AROT (flexible) pipe.

neolin · Answer

I suggest (reasonably) increase the cross-section of the wire in relation to the calculated one and run it in a conduit. The larger the cross-section, the less it heats up (and it will be poorly cooled), but it costs more. Added after 3 [minutes]: Wrapping it with polystyrene is an even worse idea.

Miwhoo · Answer

No exaggeration, gentlemen ... The long-term load capacity of the YDY 5x16mm2 cable is 74A.

P = I * (?3 * U)

P = 74A * (?3 * 400V)
P?51.3kW

Even if the installed power is 25kW, it cannot heat this cable noticeably ...

If you want to increase the cross-section even more, although it seems unfounded to me, it is better to give 4 or 5x25mm2 Alu. Unless the car has a production plant in the basement ...

Quote:
If someone thinks that they will get the cable out of the pipe in x years, good luck, Smile

Miwhoo wrote:
I will only add that sometimes it is easier to dig under the footing and pull the cable out in the building ...

I do not agree, it is easier to drill the strip footing and insert the cable. However, there is nothing to think about, each building is different.

The cable can be pulled out, you only need to use a rope, not a wire, but then a smooth PVC pipe instead of a conduit.
Sometimes the client obliges himself to dig the connection [to make it cheaper

] and I do not want to break the bench, I will order him to dig in the ground until the bench ends ... in some cases it is justified, something else, when you have to dig 2m deep under the bench ...

As Col. Łukasz noticed, each building is different and requires an individual approach ..

Regards.
Miwhoo.

Łukasz-O · Answer

However, I am supporting what I wrote. Yes, if we have arota of the right diameter and large bows, we will pull it out, but from an ordinary PVC pipe with bends plus passing through the bench from below - I will not share your enthusiasm Rarely, the approach can be made in a straight line, and if it can, the client does not want to

Akrzy74 · Answer

- Arot casing pipe (split or not) - Conduit (e.g. with enhanced strength 320N) - RL tube If someone foresees a possible replacement of a damaged cable / wire, special drawbars are used to pull them out.

Miwhoo · Answer

Honestly, I have not yet assembled connections with the prospect of future replacement ... The conduits only because of trampling and crossing cables with a wheelbarrow and other construction vehicles.
Once there were cables hit with a concrete mixer on metal rings :)

As I wrote earlier, each building is different and requires an individual approach to the subject.

andrzej lukaszewicz · Answer

And as usual, the topic (and the problem) has grown to a large size, and in practice, with proper installation, you will NEVER replace this cable, and when this happens, the entire installation will be destroyed.
In polystyrene, you do not have to hide it in anything, just make a gap in the first layer of polystyrene (two layers 2X5cm are recommended in this case).
After laying the polystyrene, the screed is usually done quickly (most often it is done by a team of masticators - 90% of cases), so only make sure that the work is done properly. There is no reason to use any extra special materials here.
If you start experiencing each installation in this way, you will run out of strength and funds, and I know what I am talking about, because I built my house and often do "something" with other fresh investors and I always see oversensitivity at the beginning, and at the end - discouragement in these issues.

darekas · Answer

Thanks to everyone for your willingness to help.

I found in the offer of the Baks company underfloor ducts that could be adapted for this purpose. All cables would fit into such a channel.

I think that a cable could be pulled through such a channel in the future.

The only problem is that a big company like Baks only produces these channels to order.

ciuqu · Answer

Regarding the ducts, you can use standard PVC cable trays that you can buy in castorama. There are various metal PVC cable trays, etc., which you can easily buy, but if it makes sense, you will spend money and maybe in 30 years you will replace the wires or tighten another wire.

And in 30 years they will invent wireless energy transmission and you will stick sockets on the walls, and if you get bored, you will stick to another place

darekas · Answer

Only now it dawned on me, as you wrote, to forge through the strip footing or dig under the bench.

For me, an electrician did so that with the main power cable he reached the foundation wall at a depth of about 70 cm, then he went up the foundation wall with the cable and entered the house through the wall just above the foundation wall, then the main power cable runs along the skinny stick.

The section of the cable that is in contact with the foundation wall runs in polystyrene and is in a PVC tube

Is this the correct routing of the main power cable?

Jola72 · Answer

Unfortunately, I cannot agree with this statement ... "there are no jokes with the current" Each cable embedded in the floor should have an additional cover according to the Polish standard, I recommend Mr. Markiewicz's "bible of electricians" "Electrical Installations"

darekas · Answer

And does it say what kind of cover it must be.

Jola72 · Answer

It is not specified, although the cover should be matched to the conductor cross-section, it can be a PVC conduit, there are metal conduits with internal PVC insulation, PVC pipes An additional cover protects the cable against mechanical damage, against abrasion of the insulation, etc. different types of guides are used I hope that I have replied exhaustively

darekas · Answer

In that case, the metal trays can not be?

elpapiotr · Answer

Hello. They can't be. The more that the metal trays are rather perforated.

darekas · Answer

The underfloor channels are not perforated at all.

elpapiotr · Answer

Hello.

It had to be written clearly - channels. Because the trays are not channels, although Legrand offers solid floor trays, but they are plastic.
Perhaps BAKS also offers one, but I haven't checked it.

darekas · Answer

Why can't they be metal?

michuszcze · Answer

They can be metal as much as possible, but why do you want to make your life difficult, give these cables or wires in a conduit and on the subject, there is only a mechanical cover against construction vehicles, such as a wheelbarrow, etc. - because it gives nothing else.

Jola72 · Answer

They can be metal, but as my dear colleague Michuszcze wrote, the conduit is a cover against mechanical damage, if you already have metal trays, they can be, and if you just ask, I, like my colleague, say that the conduit can do the trick :)

Please use the correct spelling, because I will send the posts to the trash. We start sentences with a capital letter. [retrofood]
I am very sorry that I forgot about the correctness of spelling, but it seems to me that uppercase or lowercase letters are a minor problem, more emphasis should be placed on the culture of expression, which I hope retains

Power Cable Conduit Alternatives for Single-Family House Switching Station - Polystyrene & Spout

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