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Title: Cable Routing to Garage: 5x4mm, Paving Stones, Concrete, Arot/PE Pipes & Winter Concerns

michu7362 26781 13
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  • #1 18945088
    michu7362
    Level 5  
    Hello. I need to run a 5x4mm? cable to the garage, unfortunately the only way is through the paving stones, under which there is a lot of concrete, and under the concrete there is stone and rubble. Standard disassembly of the cube, digging a ditch in this case will be expensive, laborious with a lot of mess, and in the end the cube will sit down under the pressure of trucks that sometimes have to drive in (some say that if it's done right, nothing will sit down, but once I had to disassemble a piece of paving stone, dig a hole and despite a decent compaction of the material, the paving stone sat in this place), so it's 100% out and I'll fix the cable by air sooner.
    But, I came up with the idea to pull out a row of cubes, cut a groove about 10 cm deep, put arot or PE pipe in it, and then pour concrete. I'm just wondering if water will collect there, which could damage the cable in the winter. Or maybe lay the ground cable itself, without additional protection? But then I would be afraid that it might rub against the concrete. I know that this is not professional workmanship and you should dig a pit, lay the ground wire at a depth of 90 cm, and cover it with sand, but I do it at home, I would not dare to do such a combination at someone else's. What do you think? Regards.
    I've attached a picture that shows a bit of my vision.
    Title: Cable Routing to Garage: 5x4mm, Paving Stones, Concrete, Arot/PE Pipes & Winter Concerns
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  • #2 18945107
    zadam64
    Level 39  
    This tube will crumble over time. I would have used a pessicle before.
    Moderated By Topolski Mirosław:

    The conduit is not suitable for this type of work. Arot casing pipe at the right depth: https://www.wavin.com/pl-pl/katalogty/energetyka
    3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

  • #3 18946382
    Rhaavir
    Level 14  
    AROT pipe !!!!!!! And not a corrugated pipe or tubes!!!!

    I would give a dedicated rigid casing pipe (for example: SRS pipe made by TT Plast - or something similar from another company) - a cable in the "ground" version, i.e. YKY, if we are very paranoid, we can put AROT pipe to the rigid pipe and pull it into it cable :) :)
    https://onninen.pl/en-PL/srs-110-pipe-sleeve-...d-gladkoscienna-6m-11008500100000-arot,HEO181
    If you make a groove and pour concrete into the pipe, it should withstand - should - this is the key word :)
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  • #4 18947874
    michu7362
    Level 5  
    I also think that it should withstand, because the cube will still be based on concrete that would not be cut out, but I wonder if water will not collect there, which in winter can cause damage to the cable insulation when it freezes.
  • #5 18947913
    kkas12
    Level 43  
    On what standards is this proposed bungling supposed to be based???
  • #6 18948746
    Michał643
    Level 26  
    kkas12 wrote:
    On what standards is this proposed bungling supposed to be based???

    None, but it's not about standards, because we won't take care of it from the forum level anyway. I would like to mention that the YKY 0.6/1 kV 5x4mm? cable has a diameter of only 1.5 cm, so the gap needed for its laying is really small. Instead of flooding the gap with concrete, it would be enough to even cover it with sand and lay the cube. Water is not a threat to this cable.
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  • #7 18948847
    kkas12
    Level 43  
    You worry about the fact that we won't take care of anything from the forum level, and you post an even more bungling solution yourself.
    Will you sign as a contractor under what you proposed???

    So think about how many people, not boasting about it, will implement such a solution, taking it at face value?
    This is brainwashing.
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  • #8 18949907
    michu7362
    Level 5  
    I know it's not a perfect solution, but I do it myself and I take responsibility for it.
  • #9 18949940
    kkas12
    Level 43  
    Then go to the author of the thread and do it to him, not write what you do in your yard.
    As for the solution, it's pure paradox.
  • #10 18950931
    Dobromir pomysłowy
    Level 25  
    kkas12 wrote:
    Then go to the author of the thread and do it to him
    He's the author. And 20-30 cm of concrete under the ankle is definitely water-permeable concrete? At home, I would do as in the drawing, but in half of the concrete and strong concrete the rest as my colleagues indicated. The sand can be washed out over time and still the cube would still work. Of course, this is not an area where there can be a sudden overflow of water from above or is it not mining, etc.?
  • #11 18951496
    kkas12
    Level 43  
    Dobromir pomysłowy wrote:
    I would do it as pictured...
    So do.
    Also, write that any investments in a built-up area where sidewalks are dismantled, ditches are dug to lay cables at the right depth is stupid.
    And yet, if the cable is so possible, what prevents you from laying gas in this way.
    I asked about the standards sanctioning such bungling.
    The fact that the inventive Dobromir advises so is not a standard.
  • #12 18956889
    michu7362
    Level 5  
    He undresses because the contractor does not want to be held responsible for deviating from the standards, he has a project that he is supposed to stick to, a construction manager is standing over the contractor, etc.
  • #13 18957674
    Dobromir pomysłowy
    Level 25  
    Maybe my colleague kkas12 will write how it should be, because so far he has spoken 4 times and nothing. And how are they doing in Dublin? Because I saw - they do very different. Also, don't say anything that I didn't even mean. It's good that the author asked how to do it, that's what this forum is for, when I was doing it at home, those were the times when there was nothing, the electrode forum was not even there - not even in the plans. In public places there must be plans and very strict adherence to them. I believe that even in my area, so private, you should have a plan, do it according to standards. As for gas, many people made a lot of mistakes in Szczyrk. They were professionals :(
  • #14 18958251
    kkas12
    Level 43  
    Twice I asked about standards allowing for the solution propagated here.
    The answer was that there are no such because in professional companies, order is supervised by the construction manager and possible responsibility when bungling comes to light.
    So do not write that proven solutions can be ignored in your area, because there are no standards for professionals and others for laymen.

    Does damage to the insulation of the cable laid at the appropriate depth, until the protection is activated, pose a threat to third parties?
    There is no such threat, because the current "escaping" to the ground will not be brought to the surface of the ground.

    Now consider such damage in a cable laid several centimeters below the surface, i.e. in a solution that you are trying to force through.
    You really can't see anything?

    Then please take a receiver in the first class of protection, of course connected to the network, and walk along the route of the damaged cable in this mess, which you dream of doing so.


    There are threads on this forum about "kicking" front doors, for example.
    It is your "elder brothers in faith" without imagination that are the reason for their creation.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the challenges of routing a 5x4mm cable to a garage through paving stones and concrete, with concerns about potential water accumulation damaging the cable during winter. Suggestions include using AROT or PE pipes for protection, with some participants advocating for a rigid casing pipe like SRS from TT Plast. There are debates about the effectiveness of these solutions, the potential for water to collect in the groove, and the importance of adhering to standards in cable installation. Some participants express skepticism about the proposed methods, emphasizing the need for professional standards and the risks associated with non-compliance.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Planning to power a garage under pavers? YKY 5x4 mm² is about 1.5 cm diameter, and "Water is not a threat to this cable." A user suggests a shallow groove with sand backfill as a home solution. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18948746]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps homeowners and DIYers choose safer, workable ways to route power under paving without unsafe shortcuts.

Quick Facts

Can I route a 5x4 mm² cable under paving stones without a full trench?

Yes, one approach is a shallow groove under a removed paver row. The author proposed ~10 cm depth through concrete and rubble. He planned to place a protective pipe in the groove and restore the surface. This avoids large excavation but is a deviation from typical deep burial. [Elektroda, michu7362, post #18945088]

Is corrugated conduit OK under driveways or truck loads?

No. "The conduit is not suitable for this type of work." The moderator linked an AROT casing system for energy cables. Use proper casing when crossing load-bearing areas. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #18945107]

What cable type should I choose for burial to a garage?

Use a ground-rated cable such as YKY 0.6/1 kV. One expert wrote, "a cable in the 'ground' version, i.e. YKY." He also suggested a rigid casing, for example TT Plast SRS, for shallow routes with concrete encasement. [Elektroda, Rhaavir, post #18946382]

Will water in the duct freeze and crack the insulation?

For YKY, a forum electrician noted, "Water is not a threat to this cable." He recommended even simple sand backfill under pavers for a home install. Choose ground-rated cable and avoid sharp edges. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18948746]

How deep should I bury the cable if I can trench?

The author cites typical practice. Dig a trench, lay the ground cable at about 90 cm, and cover it with sand. This aligns with a conventional approach for private plots. [Elektroda, michu7362, post #18945088]

Can a 10 cm groove with a rigid pipe and concrete survive heavy vehicles?

One contributor advised a rigid casing like TT Plast SRS for shallow routes. He added, "It should withstand — should — this is the key word." Treat this as a cautious suggestion, not a standard. [Elektroda, Rhaavir, post #18946382]

Is direct-laying the YKY under pavers with sand acceptable?

A user proposed omitting concrete and simply backfilling with sand, then relaying the pavers. He added that the YKY 5x4 mm² cable is only about 1.5 cm diameter, so the gap can be small. This is a DIY approach, not standard-backed. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18948746]

What are the safety risks of shallow-buried cables?

A professional warned that shallow damage can endanger people at the surface. He contrasted this with proper depth, where leakage current does not reach the ground surface. "There is no such threat" at proper depth. [Elektroda, kkas12, post #18958251]

Will patching pavers settle where I cut the groove?

The author experienced settlement when previously opening and refilling a section. He noted that despite compaction, "the paving stone sat in this place," especially under truck loading. Plan for proper base restoration to limit settlement. [Elektroda, michu7362, post #18945088]

Which protective casing brands were mentioned?

Examples cited: AROT energy cable casing and TT Plast SRS rigid pipes. The latter comes in smooth-walled lengths and suits concrete encasement. Select diameter to suit cable and pulling method. [Elektroda, Rhaavir, post #18946382]

How do I do a shallow crossing under pavers safely?

  1. Remove one paver row and cut a shallow groove across the drive.
  2. Lay a rigid casing (e.g., TT Plast SRS) and route YKY 5x4 mm² through it.
  3. Encapsulate the casing in concrete, cure, then relay the pavers. [Elektroda, Rhaavir, post #18946382]

Will a contractor sign off on non-standard shallow routing?

The thread author noted contractors avoid responsibility for deviations from project standards. "The contractor does not want to be held responsible for deviating from the standards." Expect refusal without a proper design. [Elektroda, michu7362, post #18956889]

Is there an agreed standard in the thread for shallow installs?

No. A professional repeatedly asked which standards allow the proposed approach. He called such work "bungling" without standards to support it. Seek designs that cite applicable norms. [Elektroda, kkas12, post #18947913]

Do corrugated tubes fail over time?

One user warned that a corrugated tube would crumble under such conditions. This supports avoiding light-duty conduit under load-bearing surfaces. Choose purpose-made casing. [Elektroda, zadam64, post #18945107]
Generated by the language model.
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