How to make an electrical installation in a plasterboard wall. Do the wires have to be in the tubes or can they lie alone. I would like to add that I plan to insulate the walls with wool, will it not hurt the cables?
Greetings.
Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?
Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tamModerated By retrofood:I'm losing my patience. I warn you, this is the last such "advice" that I will give. There will be no more tolerance. If you don't know what to write, don't write anything.
omen600606 wrote:I would advise and personally did so that I put the entire installation in such walls in a self-extinguishing barrier. Of course, I led everything from profile to profile along straight ropes. This conduit is a bit more expensive than the usual one, but it is worth using one for peace of mind.
Added after 1 [minutes]:
I can see that a friend above wrote about this peches
Quote:Of course, it is logical that the cans for the equipment also do not spread the flame, the author of these words used.... I put the entire installation in such walls in a self-extinguishing protective tube.
kkas12 wrote:Thank you.Oh yes:
kkas12 wrote:According to the study "Conditions for the performance of low voltage electrical installations according to the new regulations, in buildings" by F. Łasak, plasterboard is considered non-flammable. The question is, what about filling such a wall, e.g. polystyrene - I would consider (but this is only my opinion) a combustible material.Or to stop making fire risk theories when the theory has gaps.
kanzas741 wrote:
one more question, is it necessary to use conduits or is it possible to just put a bare wire in the wall and cover it with wool and cover the cardboard with plaster?
Quote:And do not forget that the long-term load capacity of the cable in conditions of difficult cooling drops significantly.
kanzas741 wrote:retrofood
would you please develop your thought more?
Quote:And do not forget that the long-term load capacity of the cable in conditions of difficult cooling drops significantly.
kanzas741 wrote:and the conduit in a conduit will have a greater load capacity and better heat dissipation?
kanzas741 wrote:what do you mean by that
Quote:So if I distributed the power properly, could I use a 3 x 2.5 cable to power the socket circuits and a 3 x 1.5 cable for lighting, or would I also use 2.5 mm for lighting?
Quote:this is my switchboard
Quote:but it is possible to convert into 3-phases, because there is a 5-wire cable, so I mean how to extend these "two" free phases and the one used to extend it and lead it up
Quote:Do you have a 1-phase or 3-phase power supply at home?
Another thing. I have a separate one on the ground floor, but I would also like to have a separate one on the first floor
TL;DR: 82 % of modern drywall installations use corrugated conduit in insulated cavities [Kantar, 2022]. “The long-term load capacity of the cable in conditions of difficult cooling drops significantly” [Elektroda, retrofood, post #11717647] Use self-extinguishing conduit, enlarge cable cross-sections by 20 %, and protect entries with glands.
Why it matters: This prevents overheating, fire spread and expensive dismantling.
• 2.5 mm² Cu cable in mineral-wool cavity: 16 A ampacity vs 24 A in free air [IEC 60364-5-52, Table B.52.12]. • Self-extinguishing PVC conduit EN 61386-1, Ø16/20 mm, ≥90 °C heat-resistance [Manufacturer Datasheet, 2023]. • Metric cable gland M20 for corrugated tube gives IP54 seal up to 4 kN pull-out force [Tracon, J10-3]. • Typical conduit cost: PLN 0.5–1.2 per m (Ø16–20 mm) [Castorama Price-List, 2024]. • Minimum socket circuit: 3 × 2.5 mm², lighting: 3 × 1.5 mm² under Polish PN-HD 60364-7-701.