Computer Housing and Radiator Grounding: Safety Concerns, Voltage Elimination, and Occupant Risk

Hello. I had a problem with the computer because when you touched its housing, it did not "kick" nicely and when you touched the radiator, it kicked a few times harder. so yes. I did grounding for this radiator and there is no voltage on the housing (I checked the test tube with a neon bulb), but now I do not know if it is a threat to the computer? and, of course, whether it threatens the occupants of the house. That is, there is no voltage on the radiator, but I prefer to be sure. because some say that it is life-threatening and others that it is quite safe. I do not want to do resetting because I have no experience and I do not want (in the case of disconnection of the N wire) 230V appears on the housing




PS please do not delete this topic. if it has already appeared, please link to it

Hello!

You mustn't do that.
In this way, you introduced the electric shock hazard for other users and the fire hazard for the facility.

However, you must do a reset in the socket to which the computer is connected (or the security bar).
Just connect the socket pin with zero permanently (the neon lamp is off).
Only with this connection will the strip work properly.

any56 wrote:

However, you need to do a reset in the socket to which the computer is connected (or the security bar).
Just connect the socket pin with zero permanently (the neon lamp is off).
Only with this connection will the strip work properly.

How can you suggest something like this without knowing the installation (skipping the already proposed - wrong connection sequence)?!?

You should call a specialist who will assess what to do in a specific case!

hm. buddy kkas12. Why is there a risk of fire and electric shock if there is no voltage on the computer casing or on the radiator?

Hello!

It may turn out that in the event of damage to the computer's insulation, the high impedance of such a "grounded" receiver will not activate the protection, but the cross-section of this "ground" wire will turn out to be too small in relation to the current flowing through it.
Then, the heat emitted on it may lead to fire.
Moreover, such accidental "grounding" can also work the other way around and "drag" dangerous voltage from outside the room.

Put advice on "zeroing" between fairy tales, because in the past (PBUE) it was rightly assumed that the floor in the rooms was used as insulation and would protect against electric shock, and sockets with a protective contact were installed only in the kitchen and bathroom.
Offering zeroing without knowing the system in which the installation works is irresponsible advice.
And even if this protection measure can be used, it may turn against you with old and used aluminum conductors. Then, instead of protecting, he can kill.

If, however, you decide to make such a move, remember that there cannot be sockets with and without a protective contact in one room. So either all with a protective contact or all without.
In addition, the rule must be strictly adhered to "first we protect, then we supply" that is, the neutral wire is connected first to the protective terminal and only then to the working terminal.

the installation is rather tn-c so in this case I can probably do a reset? the installation is copper. How such grounding can "drag" dangerous voltage from outside the room

Hello!

When someone behind the wall does what you did.

elektro111111111111 wrote:

hm. buddy kkas12. Why is there a risk of fire and electric shock if there is no voltage on the computer casing or on the radiator?

As soon as the plumber in the basement unscrews the pipe going to the radiators vertically, the voltage on the radiators and the computer will reappear, and the plumber holding one end of the pipe and the other end will be "reliably" shocked.
Of course, it is unlikely that the pipes will be dry after unscrewing, so his hands will be wet, it is easy to guess what may happen and who will answer for it.

Gentlemen - this was exactly the scenario of a serious accident of electrocution during the demolition of a small factory.
There was a narrow metal gallery in the building (about 50 cm), which was further entered into the room. To keep the balance, it was convenient to grab a vertical metal pipe (it was already polished to catch it there).
everything pretty damp.
The building is disconnected from the power supply, even earthed outlets in the connection (such inserts in place of BMs).
And the accident itself:
An employee who passes through this narrowing (he has done it many times before, not only him), leaning on the gallery railing, grabs the pipes and suffers an electric shock. Macabre conditions - tight, wet, dark,
it was necessary from a distance (by damaging the hand by hitting what was under the hand, i.e. with a plank - the hand clamped on the pipe) to free him from clamping on the pipe. The effect - a broken arm but the man is alive (he died only 25 years later)
And the reason - the pipe went to the building next door, where someone grounded the lamp without "zero" to let it shine. And everything was harmless, the plumbers did not disassemble the meter (maybe then the lamp was turned off because it would have torn them.
I leave the applications to my colleagues
Greetings J.
ps
the situation is dangerous, especially in blocks where the pipe runs, which is a secret for installers ...

This is a single-family house and at my house nobody will do what I do, I am 100% sure about it and it is not going to be plumbing and besides, the heating is grounded in 2 places, but if experts advise me so, it will be safer, I am already doing zeroing :)







I would have one more question:
is it allowed to install with soft copper conductors? not as commonly used in the installation.

Hello!

You can install it with a string, but if they are single strands, they should be pulled into the previously seated tube. However, it requires crimping sleeves or other endings on the strands.
Since you have decided to reset, remember that all sockets in one room are the same.
Obligatory.

it's not about me anymore. at my friend's, an electrician was supposed to make the desired durable installations (it was a garage and another room) for about 15kW and everything was fine as long as a few devices reaching the 15kW were not put into operation. after half an hour of work everything turned off and there was a barbeque in the cans. all smeared with charcoal. the installation was just made of thin soft cables. this installation was probably not done correctly and this experienced electrician was not true? now we are going to replace this installation. is a 4x2.5mm cable enough here?

Hello!

The rule is: 1.5mm2 lighting, 2.4mm2 sockets. The circuits must have a green-yellow protective conductor. A residual current device is compulsory in socket circuits. No more than ten outlets per circuit.
More powerful receivers (over 2kW, or of "strategic" importance) are better supplied with separate circuits.

ah. strategically important?

Hello!

For example: gas stove, freezer, refrigerator etc.

From double switches to 4x1.5mm2 light points. You must make sure that there is a neutral [blue], protective [yellow-green] conductor at each point, and in the case of double switches, 2 phase conductors [usually black and brown]. It is unacceptable to lay 3x1.5mm2 cables with a protective conductor used to feed the phase to the power point. Yellow-green is reserved only for the protective conductor.

If the lighting point does not have a PE terminal, the protective conductor is coiled and secured with insulation or a balance connector, because it may be needed in the future when replacing the luminaires.

The rest, as written by Kkas12.

it's a garage + workshop so provisional, so such devices there will probably not be only 2 motors 10 and 3kW, lighting some 500W small grinder 1kW and that's all

Check the computer's power supply and do not connect it to the radiator, This connection is pure stupidity

I already disconnected it and did a reset. I just don't know why all the sockets in the room have to be made this way. and whether I should be guided exactly by the room here or maybe branching in cans because, for example, two rooms are supplied from one can.

Hello!

On the desk, there is a lamp made in protection class I, i.e. requiring the connection of a protective conductor. However, it was connected to a socket with no protective contact.
There is a computer nearby, the case of which has been reset.
Everything is ok until the lamp's insulation is not damaged. Then, voltage may appear on its casing, the presence of which will not be detected, which should result in an immediate power off (SWZ), which, however, will not occur.
This state will persist until you accidentally touch both devices at the same time. And the voltage between them is 230V.
Read carefully and try to understand what I wrote to you about the insulating role of the substrate.

So almost 15kW. Since the previous specialist did what he did, it would be necessary to start with determining the type of the power supply network, and then examining the entire installation, and also taking a closer look at the WLZ, or sometimes not too small a cross-section.

I guess it was certainly too small if it was all fried. as I said, it was made of thin soft cables and after not all half an hour you know what the effect is.

It does not matter whether the installation is "wire" or "rope". The most important thing is to choose the cross-section of the cables to the installed power and type of supply network.

From what my colleague writes, the installation can be completely replaced, there is no point in saving it piece by piece. The second issue is when this "new" installation was made, because from April 12, 2002, the Regulation of the Minister of Infrastructure on technical conditions to be met by construction works has been in force.

Link to the regulation

Chapter IV, Chapter 8 applies to electrical installations.
If the installation was carried out as a colleague describes, after 04/12/2002, it does not comply with the applicable regulations. 2-wire installation is not mounted.

I recommend reading the above-mentioned regulation.

As far as I know, the installation was made in 2001, but until recently, devices with such power were not there because there was no need, so everything was supposed to work properly only now everything came out when these motors, more lighting, etc. installations because it cannot be saved.



If anyone else has any comments or suggestions, please write them

Or maybe a colleague would start with a switching power supply what is happening with him. This voltage appears out of thin air and there should be a reason for that. Servicing switching power supplies, the RMS voltage does not exceed 15V with an efficient one, if it is larger, you need to look for a capacitor that has leakage. also the problem with the internet, this voltage is disrupting or damaging the modem. affect the speed.Measurements first !!! and then a diagnosis.Zeroing as above colleagues write the most advisable and necessary.With grounded or zeroed (we never zero or ground both, but in this matter there are better specialists here) the RMS voltage is about 1V
Regards !! 73!