No grounding. Two-wire installation. How to connect the grounding?

Hello!
Well, I have a problem:
I have 2-core installations in the house, there is no grounding, how to connect the ground ??? I mean specifically that the computer should be connected to the ground, because sometimes I copy from the housing
Is it possible to stick a piece of rod into the ground and lead the cable to the pin in the socket?
Is it possible to somehow connect the wires in the installation to the pin somehow, because I heard that the ground wire connects to the pin ... but I'm not sure, so I'd rather make sure

earthing resistance should be as small as possible, the rod driven into the ground itself / even with good earth conductivity / is not enough. Sometimes central or water pipes are used / they are often connected / more convenient than digging iron into the ground. The grounding wire not necessarily to the socket is enough for the PC case / ensure good contact /
All industrial devices have a grounded housing as standard.

Hi

your socket is currently zeroed ???
if not, first of all you need to bridge the zero with the pin in the wall socket - basically that's all you should do, if it doesn't help, report it to the building administration

If it is to be a professional job, it should be done by a specialist (unless you feel strong enough). You should run an additional zeroing wire in the installation and connect it to the electrical connector. For your information - computer cases always "smyraja" if someone does not feel that, let him touch the computer and the radiator This is due to the anti-suppression capacitors in the power supply

well, but there is one more problem, when I connect the cable to the TV card, the monitor starts to fly, and you can see that the sparks from the cable jump when I move it towards the housing, so I think it is caused by a lack of grounding
aha, there is no building administration because it is a single-family house, not a block of flats; p
and in the wall there are 2 cables because it is an old installation
from what you write, it seems to me that the best solution will probably be to just connect the ground cable to the pin

Welcome

start with zeroing - connect the pin to "zero" in the socket
flickering of the monitor - it may be a different topic - the cable may have a different grounding and hence this problem, if zeroing does not help - you need to install an input separator - between the cable and your computer - it will take care of the topic 100%

greetings

Hello
Connecting the computer to the radiator ???? 8O
If it is in a block with a municipal boiler room, I do not advise you.

władziowek wrote:

Hello
Connecting the computer to the radiator ???? 8O
If it is in a block with a municipal boiler room, I do not advise you.

after all, I wrote that it is in a single-family house and not in a block of flats


if you are talking about this separatosis .... then you should leave a diagram or a link

Before you begin to follow these enlightened advice, first try to establish what you are connected to:
- if you have a socket with a pin, e.g. in a bathroom or a boiler room, try to find out what the pin is connected to.
- if you are able to reach the transformer substation from which your house is powered, try to find out what is written on the door:
or about zeroing ("Zeroing", "Z", "O", "TN-C")
or about earthing ("Earthing", "U", ...)
If zeroing, you connect the pin to the neutral wire.
If you are grounding, you must unfortunately connect the pin to the ground (you must _not_ connect it with the neutral wire ...). I assume that you _must__ grounding when laying the electrical wiring ...

No name wrote:

władziowek wrote:

Hello
Connecting the computer to the radiator ???? 8O
If it is in a block with a municipal boiler room, I do not advise you.

after all, I wrote that it is in a single-family house and not in a block of flats


if you are talking about this separatosis .... then you should leave a diagram or a link

Welcome
separator - I use ready-made solutions,
you have to look in the INNE, Radio, TV or SAT departments - these topics were certainly discussed and someone created such a scheme

The connection to the pin will be effective, although I do not recommend it, the reason is simple, if the "N" wire gets a break, the computer may kill you! However, when it comes to earthing, you would have to bury so-called 8 to 10 m. hoops in the ground at a depth of min. 1m and I would recommend even 2m. So as you can see, it's not that simple. You can stick a 2m rod with a diameter of 10-15 mm into the ground, but it will be a terrible makeshift. The computer will stop mining and nothing else, you just get rid of this leakage current.

raffq wrote:

If you just want to get rid of the mopping of the computer housing, all you need to do is hook up the sub-chamber

Hello
Only not under the radiator in any case!
Installation (no matter what - whether in a cottage, boiler room or municipal network) does not guarantee good quality grounding and protection! - in most cases it will not help, and may damage or even shock you
Plumbing OK, even if it was plastic, it wouldn't hurt if it didn't help.
Other suggestions are OK, but according to the SEP guidelines, the (former) "0" wire must first be connected to the pin, hence to the "hole" while maintaining the continuity of the wire.
greetings

Buddy "Kociołek" with a water supply system, if it does not guarantee a "metallic" connection with the ground, is also not suitable. A colleague will fill a meter-long pipe with water and measure its resistance.

RSP wrote:

Buddy "Kociołek" with a water supply system, if it does not guarantee a "metallic" connection with the ground, is also not suitable. A colleague will fill a meter-long pipe with water and measure its resistance.

You're right. The more that the water supply networks are now plastic.
I wanted to say that if it doesn't help, it won't hurt, unlike in heating, which I know better.

Listen to your colleague "kasprzyk", this is the simplest method (admittedly from the Stone Age), but in your case it looks like you have a very old electrical installation.
So the pin in the socket on O, just check it with a neon light (so that you do not connect the phase) Of course, you have a surge protector for your computer.

I connected it, as colleagues advised, first to the pin, then to the hole
the monitor has stopped flying so much and the sparks are already minimal when I stick to the housing, but still a bit of a summer screen, as if refreshing was too small, after disconnecting the cable it is normal,
In addition to the cables, I have an internet connected via usb and the monitor behaves the same, so now I have internet connected via a network card, and I would call it via usb, because then I would have a free network card and I could connect to the 2nd computer and have both
but inside of me this flickering ...

To everyone on this topic: for quite a few years there has been no such thing as zeroing, i.e. connecting a protective pin with zero in a socket. According to the applicable PN, the installation inside the apartment is to have 3 wires.
As a makeshift until the installation is replaced, for your own safety, it is worth choosing one of the two solutions:
1.If the water supply connection is metal or the pipe to the pump in the well is metal and is at least several meters long - connect the protective contact of the socket to the water system. Remember to have a good contact, clean, protected against corrosion, and to bridge the water meter with a piece of hoop tightened with solid screws, also with good contact.
2.if not, then at a distance of about 0.5 m from the foundation outside the building, and even better in the basement, drive a 1-inch long 3 m long galvanized pipe into the ground (in the basement less than it can fit in height, possibly two 0, 5 m apart).
Make the installation with a 2.5 mm square cable, it will be mechanically more resistant.
Provisional ground efficiency test: connect a 100-200 W bulb between phase and earth - measure the voltage on the mains (phase-to-neutral) and the voltage on the bulb (phase-to-earth). Calculate the earthing resistance from the difference between these voltages and the bulb current. WHEN AT THIS TRY, DO NOT TOUCH THE WATER PIPE OR TO THE EARTH OF THEM. If the resistance is less than 5 ohms (with 10 A fuses) or 3 ohms (16 A), the earth electrode will protect effectively.

Dude, I think that 80% of installations in private houses built before 1990 do not have differential circuit breakers, so it's not a stopgap, I guess the sparking of the computer case is caused by some device in the house (fridge, motor, pump etc).

robert45 wrote:

Dude, I think that 80% of installations in private houses built before 1990 do not have differential circuit breakers, so it's not a stopgap, I guess the sparking of the computer case is caused by some device in the house (fridge, motor, pump etc).

it is exactly right - nowadays, when obligatory inspections of the electrical installation are carried out, e.g. on blocks, gentlemen carefully check whether the electrical sockets with a pin, and the installation is not 3-wire - are well zeroed, i.e. the zero connected to the pin.

there is still flickering - it is enough that the modem is connected via USB ???

I do not know what kind of crossovers your company uses - you can check (this is a device from which one modem cable comes out, the other one for TV sets or your computer)

you need to insert a galvanic separator - if your crossover already has a separator - then insert a separator between the modem and the crossovers, if not, insert a separator between the crossovers and the signal coming (i.e. the power cable from the cable), if that would not help, then the second separator between the switches and the computer

The cable and computer problem is known in installations that do not comply with current regulations. The cable is earthed, most often to the water supply in blocks. The zero of the network is grounded in the cable joint (at the cable connection) or right up to the transformer (at overhead). The voltage drop on the section from the earthing point of the network to the socket can be several V with a current efficiency of even several A. The only way is to have a separator at the cable entry from the cable (before all splitters, modems, etc.). You can get it in the store, it does not cost a fortune - there is no point in doing it yourself.
I understand that you have a cable modem that has a galvanic transition between the ground of the cable input and the USB ground? If so, a 200% separator will help

Try to use a galvanic isolator for the cable, it should help www.dipol.com.pl/sklep/r48606.htm

and can these disturbances somehow have a negative impact on the equipment?

first of all - you have flickering (pulsation), which definitely interferes with using and working at the monitor (computer)

I have not encountered hardware damage so far, but you should definitely take measures to eliminate this problem

greetings

Cyrrus, I understand that you can dislike plumbers, but to encourage mass extermination ... Recently, in Łomża (thanks to someone who grounded in the way you described) a plumber died. He unscrewed the poor man's water pipe in the basement of the multi-family house and lit up. The sad part is you are probably an electrician - what are the amateurs doing then?

You can use the water and gas lines as grounding if conditions permit, but to prevent situations like this Plumber, additional equalizing lines are used.

The gas pipeline must not be used as grounding. I feel sorry for the plumber, but he should know that if the water supply is interrupted, especially in the building. multi-family house, a work around the cooperage is done beforehand. In the 1970s, the connection of the protective pin with the water supply was massively used, it was done vertically in every bathroom - these were the regulations then. A few washing machines connected to the socket were enough and the current of anti-interference capacitors was large enough to kill. Anyway, this rule (workaround) applies to any cut of long metal pipes (water, gas, cable jacket). Another thing is that few people follow it.

I would not encourage people with a vague idea of electric shock protection to make earth electrodes or main and local equipotential bonding. The consequences of this can be dire, especially in the block of flats. Our colleague Kasprzyk gave an exhaustive answer on how to solve the problem of the lack of zeroing (in existing installations by connecting the pin with the PEN-zero wire, in the right order) and the flow of equalizing currents (galvanic separation of the cable). Even the simplest solutions require a bit of knowledge.