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[Solved] Protect Suspension Bolts from Corrosion: Molykote Copper Spray, Pins, Rods, Rust Prevention

7hebill 34647 49
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16887038
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    Lots of materials on the Internet how to protect the chassis against corrosion, but somehow little information on how to protect the typical bolts in the suspension. I read a few threads on a similar topic and people seem to recommend Molykote Copper Spray Lubricant. I wonder how to secure such screws. In March I changed pins and rods, today, when I looked at them, I found that unscrewing them would be a pain because they eat the rust at an amazing pace. And now someone could advise me on how to prevent it? Should I buy such a spray lubricant and spray these bolts right after assembly? Well, in many vlogs they say not to lubricate especially the bolts from the hubs or wheels, or from the stabilizer column. Can it only lubricate the heads themselves and not the threads? How is it in the end? However, I would like the bolts to be in better condition with annual replacements. Please feel free to discuss :)
    Added after 1 [minutes]:
    I would like to add that it is not a pity for me to spend a few dozen or more zlotys, just to have it easier in the future.
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  • #2 16887054
    sk700
    Level 31  
    There is some school of thread lubrication prior to assembly with used engine oil. I am not a staunch supporter of it, but it must be admitted - it works.
  • #3 16887057
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    sk700 wrote:
    There is some school of thread lubrication before assembly with used engine oil. I am not a staunch supporter of it, but it must be admitted - it works.

    Well, there is no risk of loosening lubricated with grease or oil? I have heard many opinions that the bolts should not be lubricated at all.

    Added after 1 [hours] 21 [minutes]:

    And do you lubricate the threads or the heads only?
  • #4 16887205
    ALIBABA I
    Level 33  
    Hello buddy, I do not provide links so as not to make an advertisement, a long time ago I got a preparation called
    Komplexor. This is a paint primer, which is weird? I dilute it with water and only with water, and I have the impression that you are looking for a similar preparation. As for me, it's great, I'm not afraid of the so-called acid rains and so on.
  • #5 16887227
    jalop
    Level 24  
    Some people use vegetable oils to keep their hands awake. After a few kilometers in the rain, the propeller will be stuck with the ubiquitous. You will get the same effect after lubricating with some kind of grease.

    If you are actually looking for something that will protect the screw from weather conditions, then you should be interested in specialized screw gels. Properly used, it guarantees peace for years.
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  • #6 16887292
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    Thanks, gentlemen, for the tips, but I still don't know if the threads should be lubricated or just the heads? I will not lubricate with vegetable oils or used oils because, as I say, I would prefer to buy something adapted to this and just as my colleague above mentioned I do not want to have so much shit on the screw that it will be hard to clean then, and worse if it all gets hot, it will probably be lame what ? Most of the bolts, as I drew it, are the suspension bolts (I'm talking about the most corrosive ones) and despite the good parts, they rust anyway, and after a few months I have a problem. I'm going to check out this Komprexor right now. I invite the rest of the people here to go to the discussion because the topic seems to me not very clear and little about it on the Internet - how should such bolts be protected against this unfortunate water and salt? I am not lucky that in the country where I live there is water-rain more often than in other parts of Europe, unfortunately :(

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    ALIBABA I wrote:
    Hello buddy, I do not provide links so as not to make an advertisement, a long time ago I got a preparation called
    Komplexor. This is a paint primer, which is weird? I dilute it with water and only with water, and I have the impression that you are looking for a similar preparation. As for me, it's great, I'm not afraid of the so-called acid rains and so on.


    Tell me if it is before or after :) because it sounds like a rust remover :) And how does he deal with high temperatures?
  • #7 16887313
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    Due to the fact that I do a lot and see a lot of someone else's work, I will say "who lubricates, drives" bolts covered with any grease unscrew without any problems. Everything else depends on the materials used.
  • #8 16887320
    jalop
    Level 24  
    The answer is very simple, do not lubricate the threads with any lubricants due to the possibility of self-unscrewing.
    Maybe in diffrent way. There is such a thing as thread self-locking, where one component is the friction between the external and internal threads. Lubricants reduce this factor, thus reducing the self-locking of the joint. The conclusion is obvious.
  • #9 16887337
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    But, man, you've read it. Do some work in this profession and you will find out what people are talking about. We are not talking about the threads, but the cylindrical parts of the bolts that stick in the metal-rubber sleeves.
  • #10 16887372
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #11 16887389
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    Exactly so, especially with the stabilizer vertical links, old nuts like a counter is a blessing.
  • #12 16887406
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    then only lubricate the head? Whether or how because I got lost, I guess :)
  • #13 16887408
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #14 16887410
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    Protect Suspension Bolts from Corrosion: Molykote Copper Spray, Pins, Rods, Rust Prevention
    For example, I have such a bolt from a McPherson pillar and its unscrewing it almost miraculously. Of course, the new one is already coming to me, but I do not want to let this happen again, I do not know if I can lubricate the thread or only from the outside after screwing it? I am not a specialist, I have little experience. It is true that I have met with the concept of who does not lubricate, does not drive, but somehow I do not understand this message until the end :)

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    mn997 wrote:
    with a little coffee,
    It means?

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    mn997 wrote:
    When securing with a counter
    You say I have to tuck a second nut to make a wick?

    Added after 33 [seconds]:

    Sorry, guys, but I have enough CHLOPSY reasoning :)
  • #15 16887421
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    In both cases, the wallet had to be left alone. This screw is fine. Nice wire brush and grease for the hole.
    (oh, you don't have peasant reasoning), tofot is a solid lubricant which the peasant smeared with "buks" (sliding hubs) on horse-drawn carts.
    The name has been extended to include solid lubricants for both plain and rolling bearings.
    When working with suspensions, tools are the basis, good strong wrenches and unused sockets. Impact dumplings, sometimes something to heat or cut.
  • #16 16887428
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #17 16887433
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    Doktorr wrote:
    In both cases, the wallet had to be left alone. This screw is fine. A decent wire brush will grease you and your hole. When working with suspensions, tools are the basis, good strong wrenches and unused sockets. Impact dumplings, sometimes something to heat or cut.


    I have it all :) It's just that with this screw just a smaller problem with the thread because it is a spline and there it has already been so germinated that in a few months nothing from the other side will be. The car is already old ;) and I haven't done anything with the columns so far. The rest here do not care about the cars and then you have a problem like something to replace that no one has ever done before ;)

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    I will say this for me, it is a matter of pennies, I prefer to give now than play with her again in the future. And so I had to heat her with a burner because she did not want to let go, then the plastic in this cap came out.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    This screw is not the worst anyway, but I have such things as sleeping on my heads, and they are not more than two / three years old :( (
  • #18 16887483
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #19 16887535
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    So the grease on the bolts from the wheels falls off because you will not do counter there?
  • #20 16889266
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    A simple matter, lubricate the threads with thick copper grease after tightening or cut off the protruding part of the screw so that it does not rust.
  • #21 16889643
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    There is something like graphite grease.
  • #22 16889776
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    The old school:
    Whoever lubricates goes! We will take care of repairing old cars (bolts have been built the same for centuries, both in new and old cars - in terms of threads, the differences are at most in the heads of bolts and nuts), it is written that before installing the bolts, lubricate with grease, e.g. ŁT4. So, in the old school of mechanics, they all lubricated, grandfather on a bicycle and moped, father on a motorcycle and FSO car. For this reason, nothing has ever unscrewed by itself, it has stopped. On the other hand, there has never been a problem with unscrewing a screw, e.g. after 5 years.

    New school:
    Do not lubricate the threads! It is not allowed, the screw will unscrew and you will drive into the ditch. Well, safety - of course, on the safety and health of users, car manufacturers care like a dog on a bowl of milk (vide: the last folkswagon scandal). Do not lubricate it or it will fall off. Do not lubricate, because it will rot, rust and it will not be possible to unscrew in a few years and then we will sell you a whole new control arm with a subframe, because we do not have new bolts in a separate offer. :)

    A compromise between the old school and the new school:
    Do not lubricate the thread of the bolt before assembly (it is galvanized, not black as it used to be), only after tightening with the specified torque, make a solid cap on the head of the bolt and on the nut and protruding thread with a water-resistant grease, e.g. STP. A screw secured in this way will not rot. There will be no hydrogen pitting corrosion, which weakens the screw and may cause it to break off (and the producers say not to lubricate it, because it is galvanized - galvanizing will hydrate the surface - and the galvanization is for the lifetime of the car, that is 2 years - because then the warranty expires. It is a pity that they do not know that the average car in Poland has been struggling for 14 years). Grease (or something else, at your discretion - in the old school, it was cool to melt beef tallow, such as for smearing knots in mopik - not Silesians will translate them with a translator) coated on the head of the screw and the protruding thread will never cause a drop in friction in an already tightened screw .

    And now seriously, if I did not deal with this topic for some time at the university, I would not know either. With this thread lubrication in cars and beyond, the slurry reduces the friction between the bolt and nut, which can falsify the tightening torque of the bolt. Manufacturers in their catalogs indicate the tightening torque (gibberish of the pens: torque rotary screw tightening) for dry screws without grease. The grease slightly falsifies and therefore it cannot be guaranteed that the moment measured on the screw greased with the screeds, given in the manual, will guarantee the durability of the connection. It's just about that. However, as practice shows, it is not that critical. Mechanics lubricate, especially not the thread, but the bolt itself, because they know that it will make their work easier in some time when the customer returns to the workshop.

    From the AGH laboratory:
    3.1. Characteristics of the basic methods of bolt tightening.
    Making a bolt joint with preload requires calculating its value at the design stage and then determining the value of tension that is obtained in the bolts during the connection. Unfortunately, direct measurement of the bolt tension is difficult under normal conditions, therefore methods of indirect determination of its value by measuring other physical quantities are used.
    The most common method of creating a jointwith a given value of tension, it is to apply a specific tightening torque to the nut with a torque wrench. However, this method is not very accurate, because the tightening torque does not directly determine the tension in the bolt, but is the result of the interaction of random variables. The torque fluctuations are influenced by many factors, the precise determination of which is extremely difficult or even impossible. These are, among others: static and kinetic friction, irregularity and non-perpendicularity of cooperating surfaces, lubrication , errors in the execution of the thread and mating surfaces, non-uniformity of the bolts, etc.
    For standard bolts, it was determined that the spread of the tightening torque value, with the required constant initial tension, reaches ? 30%, and for flange bolts and nuts even up to ? 50%. Therefore, it is assumed that the connection can be tightened based on the tightening torque if the tolerance of the correctness of the joint execution is above ? 30% [3].
    It follows that the basic problem of this tensioning method is obtaining the exact value and repeatability of the preload in the bolt joint. The main reason for the large dispersion of the preload values at a constant, even precisely selected tightening torque is the fact that the applied
    the torque is 85% ÷ 90% lost to overcome frictional couplings during tightening, which occur both on the face of the tightened nut and on the thread surface.

    So my slogan on this topic is: compromise.
    Alone, after screwing in the screw or screwing in the nut, it smears the rags and it can always be unscrewed in years to come :)

    Finally, a description for the curious only. Very accessible information for the above-mentioned issues.
  • #23 16889862
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    ^ToM^ wrote:
    A compromise between the old school and the new one:

    All in all, now I understand why the opinions are so divided :)

    Maybe the bolts are galvanized at the factory or something, but in my case the bolt is 7 months old and it is already massacrely corroded :)
    So it turns out that it is probably best to cover the screwed screw with grease ;)
  • #24 16889902
    jalop
    Level 24  
    7hebill wrote:

    So it turns out that it is probably best to cover the screwed screw with grease ;)


    ... and put a cap on it. Otherwise, the grease will catch sand after a while.

    If you have minor problems finding the right remedy, here's an example.

    Lin here
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  • #25 16890027
    7hebill
    Level 11  
    "Riding Hood" in what sense?
  • #26 16890192
    jalop
    Level 24  
    7hebill wrote:
    "Riding Hood" in what sense?



    A hood in this sense:

    Protect Suspension Bolts from Corrosion: Molykote Copper Spray, Pins, Rods, Rust Prevention

    Link


    I do not recommend cutting the screw, it only causes unnecessary trouble.
  • #27 16890458
    Pan.Kropa
    Level 34  
    jalop wrote:
    . Otherwise, the grease will catch sand after a while.
    And what? There will only be sand on the top, Just clean the bolts with a rag before unscrewing.
  • #28 16890470
    jalop
    Level 24  
    Pan.Kropa wrote:
    jalop wrote:
    . Otherwise, the grease will catch sand after a while.
    And what? Sand will only be on top, Just clean the bolts with a rag before unscrewing.


    Apparently, the grease can also wash out.
    Anyway, everyone has their own school. And it's best to learn from the mistakes of others.
  • #29 16890687
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
    jalop wrote:

    Apparently, the grease can also wash out.
    Anyway, everyone has their own school. And it's best to learn from the mistakes of others.


    Practice confirms that good grease does not rinse out and that when unscrewing it, a piece of cloth or a brush is enough and we have clean and most importantly ... not seared!
    Sticking to the grease with sand is very beneficial. Reduces further leaching of grease by water. Recently, I had to unscrew the flexible hose from the stiff one - no problem, because some years ago it was greased with zicher.

    When you rummage something in the car, pull the visible threads with grease (even if they are seized, rusty), you will easily unscrew them in six months. :) :)
  • #30 16890860
    E8600
    Level 41  
    Of course we lubricate. If the screw unscrews by itself, it means that there is a worked thread and it should be replaced, or use a self-locking washer / nut. For more sensitive places, such as the exhaust manifold, there is copper grease, which leaves a coating of other metal, while on other threads - solid grease. Please do not write a theory about the self-locking of the thread because when the screw is tightened, there is no grease on the contact surface of the thread turns (high friction forces it out).

    The case is a bit more complicated, especially in engines where currently manufacturers use 2 solutions so as not to interfere with the engine. Namely, stretchable disposable screws and glue-mounted screws. In today's cars it is very easy to damage the soft aluminum threads, so don't be surprised later that the screw is unscrewing. This is because the bolts are counted for the contact of 120-150%, where in the past such a connection had to withstand 3 times the acting force and longer threads were used (everything is due to savings).

Topic summary

The discussion centers on methods to protect suspension bolts from corrosion, particularly focusing on the use of lubricants like Molykote Copper Spray. Participants express concerns about whether to lubricate the threads or just the heads of the bolts, with varying opinions on the risks of self-loosening when lubricated. Some recommend using specialized screw gels or thick copper grease after tightening to prevent rust, while others caution against lubricating threads due to potential unscrewing. The importance of using self-locking nuts and proper torque specifications is emphasized, along with the suggestion to use galvanized or high-strength bolts for better durability. The conversation highlights the need for effective rust prevention strategies, especially in regions with high moisture exposure.
Summary generated by the language model.
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