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Best Paint for Raw Steel Gate: Powder Coating vs Traditional Paint, Primers & Topcoats

witek1965 51774 20
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  • #1 14771224
    witek1965
    Level 14  
    What to paint a steel gate with?


    Do you need powder coating? there is a troublesome but possible transport. Powder coating has one disadvantage - the coating is very thin, and will not cover imperfections after grinding welds, etc.

    If I decided to powder coating, does the steel have to be hot-dip galvanized beforehand? or covered with a primer, e.g. red (this is what an employee of a powder paint shop recommended to me)
    If traditional painting, then what?
    what kind of primer to use on steel, what topcoat, which will not fade, will not lose its gloss after the first year.
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  • #2 14771330
    bearq
    Level 39  
    Hamemerite is one of the better paints, it creates a really thick coating and works great for elements exposed to external conditions. A year ago, the warranty was strictly respected by the manufacturer, and he was really honest. The problem is that the can costs quite a lot and the paint must not be thinned. When painting, follow the manufacturer's advice on the can. If the gate is bare, do not take it into account because it works well in the case of "rust" painting.
    As for other methods, you can buy an anti-corrosion primer (red or matte black) and pre-coat the gate, then we have a choice
    Phthalic paints, or the popular "oil" paints, create a fairly thick coating resistant to weather conditions. It endures mechanical damage so-so.
    Chlorinated rubber paints, as in the case of the rest, withstand well ... admosphere ... a bit hard, which makes it quite difficult to scratch or "bruise" with it. Chemical resistant variety used in places with higher air pollution.
    Alkyd-urethane paints, i.e. paints intended for steel and iron, often used as anti-corrosion paints. Resistant to weather conditions and quite flexible. It tolerates stress well.
    Polyurethane paints and similar Epoxy paints, i.e. paints resistant to alcohols, grease, oils, etc. Very durable, slowly matting. The manufacturer's instructions for painting should be strictly followed, in one- and two-component varieties. They have harmful volatile substances, hence you need to avoid "smelling" or "inhaling" them
  • #3 14771724
    witek1965
    Level 14  
    The price of Hammerite is acceptable. PLN 42 per liter is not an exorbitant cost, especially compared to epoxy paints, where a liter ranges from PLN 100. However, this is no longer the same Hammerite as 15 years ago. An alternative to Hammerite can be CombiColor which, after a single application, produces a layer of 55 microns, not 35 like Hammerite, and is more efficient. (a bit strange), because 10.5 square meters per liter of paint, not 7.

    Anticorrosive red primer, i.e. the popular Unicor C, and black one is probably UREKOR S.
    As I would like to really secure the gate properly, I was thinking about something more professional than generally available paints in DIY stores. I am looking for information about such solutions. I mean practical information, not on the manufacturer's or seller's website, because they are always the best, the best.
    What can you say about cold galvanizing?
    or about zinc phosphate primers?
    The last items, i.e. alkyd-urethane, polyurethane and epoxy paints, convince me more, but I have to decide on one option in the end.
    Sometimes the biggest obstacle is not the price, but the quantity offered for sale. So, for example, packaging of 5 liters or 20 liters.
    Met with a fish oil based foundation.
    And what to choose?
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  • #4 14772403
    ziemek56
    Level 22  
    Very durable and resistant "ship" paint available in wholesalers from 4 liters.
    Attachments: To view the material on this forum you must be logged in.
  • #5 14772962
    Walery K
    Level 23  
    If professionally, then only hot-dip galvanization and powder coating for that. And durable and aesthetic.
    Certainly not Hammerite, I fell for it once. It is hard to paint with it, and after two years on the gate it is rusting.
  • #6 14773248
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Hamemerite did not work for me.

    Walery K wrote:
    it is only hot dip galvanizing and powder coating for that

    I don't think there is anything more permanent, especially when the zinc is applied properly.

    I have been using Corizon undercoat for years. For car chassis, I put "undercarriage wax" on it. I applied oil paint on the balcony railing, and now I have bought chlorinated rubber paint to paint the fence. I use a gun on the chassis and paint the railing with a brush. I believe that it is important to prepare the surface, remove rust, degrease.
  • #7 14774227
    witek1965
    Level 14  
    freebsd wrote:
    Walery K wrote:
    it is only hot dip galvanizing and powder coating for that

    I don't think there is anything more permanent, especially when the zinc is applied properly.


    that's for sure. The problem is that I am far from the galvanizing plant. I will not take the whole structure anyway, and I was advised not to galvanize the support rail (it may deform), so it must be properly painted.
    I am considering zinc plating, but the valuation conditions are very unfavorable. The price depends on the weight, not the surface area. And far from the galvanizing plant. The transport is coming.
    Somewhere I read that powder coating does not require galvanization beforehand. I do not know.
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  • #8 14774381
    Walery K
    Level 23  
    I know from practice that all structures installed outside are galvanized before painting. I would not dare to put only paint directly on the structure. Soon I will be making a fence and a gate, and despite the fact that they will be 6 m long elements and I have over 100 km for the galvanizing plant (the one with such long bathtubs), I will be galvanizing them anyway. Do you want to have it nice and durable? - it must cost a bit, but then you will have peace of mind for many years and you will only admire your work.
  • #9 14776620
    witek1965
    Level 14  
    Walery K wrote:
    I know from practice that all structures installed outside are galvanized before painting.
    especially those offered in DIY stores :cry:
    Well, but I'm not going to pierce the wall with my head and look for a galvanizing plant with chambers of the right length.
    http://www.galess.com.pl/ has in the description 4500 mm X 1300 mm X 2200 mm length, width and depth and ..................... .... turns out to be too small
    next http://cynkmet.pl/pol/?p=p_21&sName=cynkownia...wa&PHPSESSID=bd1134c9566ae58dc08626df1e373b14 theoretically details up to 6.5 m, but they do it in installments. Sometimes one page, then the other. It is said that it is terrible, because the inside is double galvanized and there are lumps on the material that need to be grinded, which misses the point.
    If I can't find a galvanizing plant, I'm going to paint with a primer http://www.noxan.pl/antykorozja/podklad-antykorozyjny-alkidowy-ftalowy-769.html and paint http://www.noxan.pl/antykorozja/farba-do- metal-combicolor.html - there is also a hammer.
  • #10 14776977
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #11 14777017
    Walery K
    Level 23  
    And don't you think that making a nice permanent gate can make someone happy?
  • #12 14777117
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Galvanization is the best, but is it so common? Most of the fences in the areas known to me from years ago are not galvanized. They are painted in red and oil. Lightly cleaned between coats with a wire brush drill and a hand wire brush. Such a careless painting lasts 4-10 years.

    From my humble experiences:
    1) Balcony railing (not galvanized) after 7 years, only the railing needs to be repaired. Wife damaged the flower fasteners. I will only degrease and apply a new layer, but maybe instead of an oil one I will use chlorinated rubber (if I get the right color).

    2) I am now renovating the fence on the plot. The last time was probably painted about 15-20 years ago, and only this year there appeared gross stains of rust. Also without galvanization.

    3) Carefully done car undercarriage will not rust and rot so easily. Grinder with suitable wire brush, backing and undercarriage wax. After the weekend, I can post photos of the chassis taken about 10 years ago (I have pictures of the coating, so I will check exactly when the job was done).

    4) Diving cylinders. You can buy galvanized ones (and the zinc at the bottom will wear off anyway), but ordinary steel ones do not rust much, and serve in fresh and salt water for years.

    If I had a choice when buying a fence, I would be grateful for a bad galvanization. Once the galvanization is over, the problem and the cost begins as the galvanization generally stays on the component and rust appears sporadically. Then you have to buy expensive paints for galvanization. With steel, this is not a problem.
  • #13 14777168
    KaW
    Level 34  
    1-in Łódź -very long time ago -all fences separating tram tracks
    and the fences of the stops were made of galvanized pipes in the glassworks in Silesia.
    Some of them are still standing today.
    New details are also made by hot dip galvanization. Zero maintenance, zero further investment.

    2-in telecom installations. there was a need for anti-corrosion protection of iron supporting structures for cables, etc., details and in cable chambers. .
    Conditions for the construction of cable chambers and metal supporting structures
    difficult - high moisture.
    Under these conditions, a paint probably called "complexor" proved to be successful.
    It was in the form of a creamy liquid - thick - reacted with iron after being painted
    creating a protective layer. Humidity conditions were not a problem for her.
    In the end, painting took a black, tight coating.
    Perhaps it was paint for painting bridge structures.
    3-as for the hamerit -this is a review of some balustrade -painted by some painter -so rather thick-probably to paint once and have peace ...
    There was corrosion under the paint bubbles ....
    4 - I could have confused the name of the complex - but probably not. I remember that there were two types of this paint. Perhaps the product was Polish or from Sweden.


    5-I checked -Now it is called KOMPLEKSOR 2000..the technical description is correct.
  • #14 14777307
    freebsd
    Level 42  
    Similar thread: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1730159.html

    KaW wrote:
    1-in Lodz - a long time ago - all the fences separating the tram tracks
    and the fences of the stops were made of galvanized pipes in the glassworks in Silesia.
    Some of them are still standing today.
    New details are also made by hot dip galvanization. Zero maintenance, zero further investment.

    This probably means that the zinc coating has the appropriate thickness. Now my friend wants to paint the mesh on the fence. Durable for 6 years. He did not even buy it in a supermarket, but especially more expensive, better ...
  • #15 14783164
    witek1965
    Level 14  
    tomasz.kow.1975 wrote:
    steel only as a load-bearing structure, then you do not need to galvanize or peel the rust off, just splash it with an impregnation agent every few years and for two generations it is enough.


    tomasz.kow.1975 wrote:
    However, if you decide to paint instead of galvanizing, even if you use paints / varnishes for hundreds of zlotys and paint without proper surface preparation (even car refinishers sometimes cannot), rust will appear relentlessly after a few years.


    don't you think you're contradicting yourself?
    What is the difference between the load-bearing structure, filled with wood, and the whole gate made of steel? one steel is equal to the other, but I understand that the one that is bonded to the wood will not corrode. There is something in it, because for 15 years after painting it is durable without any foci of rust, and I am not an outstanding specialist.
    Your statement does not bring anything to the topic. This is the statement of a malcontent who is irritated by the fences, at which he can only look with a jealous eye
    tomasz.kow.1975 wrote:
    In such a life, when you build an industrial fence next to your home, you have to pay industrial rates ...

    You don't even know what I meant, but I'm not going to explain anything to you, because that misses the point. You probably won't understand the message anyway.
    Anyway, your statements, despite the fact that you try to use professional language, are pointless. Industrial structures are not galvanized. They are painted. Have you seen the bridge or the galvanized mine shaft? Or maybe energy poles? Are there only bicycle stands in the city or road signs?





    tomasz.kow.1975 wrote:
    In the region where I am now, nobody paints galvanized fences (companies, because private people generally do not build steel fences) or other galvanized structures.
    where ? because forged steel fencing is probably not a phenomenon. Or maybe you mean palisade fences with several rows of barbed wire at the end?
    By the way, have you ever seen gates other than steel, forged or decorative in manors, castles or palaces? I personally did not see a wooden, locked with a padlock.

    And back to the topic:
    I am well aware that well-galvanized steel is more durable than non-galvanized steel. Powder coating does the trick, despite the thin coating. So it makes no sense to write that zinc. I am asking for high resistance undercoat and topcoat paints, proven solutions.

    By the way, I don't understand the galvanizing valuation? From a kilo, not from the surface.
    Everyone knows, with the possible exception of one of the previous speakers, that 1 cubic meter of steel weighs about 7500-7900 kilograms. A 1mx1mx1m cube made of 1mm sheet metal will weigh about 50 kg. The price for hot-dip galvanizing 7,600 kilograms is 23,000 zlotys, while those 50 kilos are only 150 zlotys.
    So why do they have to pay so dearly for full steel? I don't understand that. The galvanizing material will go just as much. So it turns out that it makes no sense to make fences out of full forged steel, only closed profiles.
    1 linear meter of the 15x15x1.5 profile weighs 0.65 kg, and the same meter of 14x14 full steel weighs 1.58 kg. Find out the rest yourself.
    Which does not change the fact that I have nowhere to galvanize, and I am not going to travel through half of Poland.
    I consider the topic exhausted.
    The paints are basically selected, and so are the undercoats. In 10-15 years I can always take it to the pen and paint again. I will probably not live to see another painting.
  • #16 14783727
    supchem
    Level 21  
    I have a sliding gate, it was only painted with unicor deck, after 7 years some fine rust appeared here and there, we cleaned it, painted it again with primer and then with oil paint, after 3 years there is no rust.
    I think my colleagues exaggerate a bit, you need to buy a good quality paint, e.g. chlorinated rubber, apply properly and it will last for many years. It is known that you can try marine paints, I have a different fence painted myself and it has been working well for 5 years.
    Walery K wrote:
    I would not dare to put only paint directly on the structure.

    Let's not get paranoid.
  • #18 14820761
    maniakkmk
    Level 2  
    Noxan
    Proven formula since 1921

    1000 PLN

    Hahaha Marketing works, probably because of the paint lead :D

    You can hammeraitem
    You can zinc, chrome, nickel, paint, do many other stupid things and the rust will come out anyway

    By the way, which paint manufacturer will guarantee the quality of anti-corrosion protection?

    Because it will last three years and smeared with oil in the shade :D

    Prices for galvanizing from kg are easier to settle. Measure an area of 300 hand-forged maple leaves and two bunches of grapes :D
    .
  • #19 14821057
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #20 14821073
    jerry1960
    Level 36  
    Composite paints produced by Kofarb Częstochowa are very good. Unfortunately, the price is about PLN 60 / liter.
  • #21 14944748
    witek1965
    Level 14  
    I used the paints I mentioned in my last post.
    I previously degreased the steel and rusted it with Fosol, then washed with detergent and, after drying, painted with primer and twice with varnish.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    101pawel wrote:
    Measure an area of 300 hand-forged maple leaves and two bunches of grapes
    .
    very simple. Roughly a square or a rectangle. Is that such a problem? Chrome plating is not such details and is counted in cubic decimeters.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the best methods for painting a steel gate, weighing options between powder coating and traditional painting. Users highlight the advantages of powder coating, such as durability and aesthetic appeal, but also note its limitations, including the need for surface preparation and potential issues with imperfections. Traditional painting options include Hammerite, CombiColor, and chlorinated rubber paints, with emphasis on proper surface preparation, including degreasing and rust removal. The necessity of hot-dip galvanization before painting is debated, with many advocating for it as the most effective long-term solution against corrosion. Various primers and topcoats are recommended, with a focus on anti-corrosive properties and longevity. Users share personal experiences and suggest that professional services may provide better results than DIY methods.
Summary generated by the language model.
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