Garden Lighting Installation: IP44 Splashproof Box & Boat Repair Resin Reaction - Softening Issue

Hello, I made a lighting installation in the garden, with a ground cable from lamp to lamp. I placed my connections in an IP 44 splashproof box, I think - I flooded it with a resin that is used to repair boats, and after a few days I noticed that the boxes were limp, they are so soft that I can pierce them with my finger. Probably there was some kind of reaction. The resin didn't fully harden. I will add that immediately after flooding I had to close the can because it was raining heavily. Has anyone done similar hermetic watertight connections?

For such cases, there are special two-component sealing masses, there is a bag and it is separated with a clip, the clip is pulled out and the two components are mixed and, after mixing, it is poured.
Here's an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oegUhQQZ4s4&feature=related
Surely the resin solvent reacted with the can and softened it. Maybe you mixed the resins in the wrong proportions. It should harden to stone, but it takes a while.

From what I know, about 0.5 kg (less than a glass of volume) of such a mass costs over PLN 70. I have successfully used "fibox" IP 65 boxes, and as a last resort roofing sealant - however, I do not recommend this solution.

Well, this two-component casting compound is damn expensive because it costs about PLN 100, and a 1l can of resin about PLN 30. I added a bit of hardener but probably not enough..., although I don't know if there would be a reaction. Maybe it happened that I closed the air supply, but I don't know if that could have an effect.

Hello!

In Ireland, I used something resembling plasticine for this purpose. However, with a slightly firmer consistency. It kneaded in my hands and filled the can. The crux of the filling was the precise compression of this plastic mass in the can. The manufacturer of this material is PIRELLI.
However, I do not know if this product is available in Poland.

You should mix the base with the hardener in the proportions specified by the manufacturer. If you give too much hardener, it will set too quickly, if not enough, you will have a jelly effect, just like now.

I suggest removing the existing resin from the can, replacing the can itself, and then refill, this time following the manufacturer's recommendations as to the proportions.

If you had a 250ml can, then you should add all the hardener to it [probably 5g]. After mixing you have about 10 minutes before it starts to set. It doesn't get hard right away, but first it thickens like jelly..

In my time, I was digging a bit in resins and this effect is given by too little hardener.

Hello

Buddy Athea. I used to play a bit with epoxy and polyester resins. I don't know what exact [epoxy] resin and hardener you used. This looks like a bad combination of both ingredients. The result was that the resin did not cure, and the residue (hardener rather than resin) penetrated the can material - dissolving it. This may be indicated by the high transparency of the obtained substance.
Speaking of epoxy resins, a year ago I bought a few kilos for about PLN 25/kg. The curing process itself is a chemical process and the supply of air is irrelevant.

One more note from me. I don't really see what connectors my friend used. The connection is not removable - I would suggest using connections with high durability and low resistance, e.g. a screwed connection. WAGO connectors are great for installation (space occupied, speed of execution and the ability to reconfigure the connection), but they are not very durable, the more so that the connector itself cannot be dismantled after pouring, so we will not use the possibility of disconnection offered by WAGO anyway.

kiss
-DAREK-

Atheo wrote:

Hello, I made a lighting installation in the garden, with a ground cable from lamp to lamp. I placed my connections in a splashproof box...

Excuse me, why mushroom? Connections are made under the lamp, not in the ground.

Miwhoo wrote:

I suggest removing the existing resin from the can, replacing the can itself, and then refill, this time following the manufacturer's recommendations as to the proportions.

Dude, I think you're absolutely right, it's probably the result of the wrong proportion.
Please tell me - can I close the lid right after pouring it in the right proportions and does it have any effect when it will be in the open air and it will rain ..

Regards and thanks for your valuable suggestions.

The sentence starts with a capital letter. The letter "ę" is in the Polish alphabet and should be used. Please correct the spelling of the posts. [retro food]

Added after 36 [minutes]:

Darom wrote:

Hello

I don't really see what connectors my friend used. The connection is not removable - I would suggest using connections with high durability and low resistance, e.g. a screwed connection.
-DAREK-

The connection is made on one part of the ankle screwed with two screws. I find it quite strong and precise.

And the connection under the lamps could not be done, because there was not so much space in the lamps. In addition, 3 cores of wires would not enter the cube.

You could save 1/3 of the resin by using a smaller can

The resin hardens chemically, emits a lot of heat, does not need contact with air, and moisture does not bother it. Immediately after pouring, I suggest mixing it a bit in the can to get rid of air bubbles, but not for too long, because when it starts to gel, you will make holes ... You can cover it right away, or you can wait until it hardens and then cover it ... If you buy epoxy, such as for boats or car patching, a hardener is included with it. Add all of it, mix quickly but thoroughly and pour over the can.

Atheo wrote:

And the connection under the lamps could not be done, because there was not so much space in the lamps. In addition, 3 cores of wires would not enter the cube.

Without exaggeration. What's the dice for? 3 wago connectors and after the competition.

Since the resin "softened" the box, I am curious about measuring the insulation resistance of these wires/cables.

mesko wrote:

I have successfully used "fibox" IP 65 boxes, and as a last resort roofing sealant - however, I do not recommend this solution.

And could you write why and what sealant did you have in mind? As far as I know there are two types.
I have been making this type of connections for a long time in hermetic cans flooded with bitumen and I have never had any problems. Bituminous mass costs PLN 30 and resin PLN 100.

And could a colleague write a bit more about this bituminous mass What name and do you prepare it somehow before flooding I'm just asking, because I used to use 3M cans, but it's terribly expensive, and some alternative would be useful.

There is no problem in making a joint on 2 cables [connection, even of different cross-sections and diameters] with a heat-shrinkable sleeve with glue inside. I myself carry various types of T-shirts in the car as an alternative to quite expensive ready-made muff kits. The trouble begins when we have 3 round cables, because the gap between the two cannot be sealed with 100% certainty.

Miwhoo wrote:

The trouble begins when we have 3 round cables, because the gap between the two cannot be sealed with 100% certainty.

And that's it. We can connect two without any problems, while the third or fourth one will destroy our muff after some time. Stopping at the heat shrink tubes, sometimes it is a problem to buy good quality for small cross-sections. Not every wholesaler has them. Yes, they are normal.

Back to the cans.
The can should be flooded. I somehow do not believe that moisture will not creep in there under the influence of time, watering the garden, etc. The question is what to pour, I pour the mentioned mass. I have always avoided resins because of the price.

There are ready-made muffs, so-called "branch" for connecting more than two cables, only that in most wholesalers it is a product only on request. In addition, there are costs and it is not always easy to match the diameter of the connected cables, so you can forget about carrying a universal set with you.

After typing "heat shrink sleeve" in the browser, 2 websites pop up at the very beginning:
http://www.noox.com.pl/ and http://aciro.pl

You can choose from all kinds, various, but the most are those for large cross-sections, used in the power industry ... It's hard to get small cross-sections, but there are:

link

To Łukasz-O
Recently I was forced to make a few connections in a large heat shrink tubing. I carefully insulated the wires with small sleeving, put them in a large sleeving and filled the whole thing with "specialist roofing sealant" SOUDAL. The connection made in this way has been lying in the water for several months and as it turned out once after dismantling, it is ok inside. How will it be in a few months? Won't there be some bad reaction between sealant and insulation, wire. Earlier, I tried to use silicone, some masses, there was always moisture, and once the insulation even started to dissolve.
Regards