Hermetic Connection of Submersible Pump Power Cables: Using Connectors, Heat Shrink Tubing, Sealant

Hello, I have a problem how to make a hermetic connection of two cables. This is the power cable of the submersible pump, which will be located in a PVC pipe underground. Are hermetic connectors ready, or can you use heat shrink tubing and some sealant????

I embed the links in non-conductive glue, wrapping the top with tape just in case. The cable has been operating under water for quite a few years.

I sealed the connections from the outside with roofing silicone and then a heat shrink sleeve. It's been two years and no problems so far.

some electricians just pour tar on it - but I don't know how it works under water
if it's supposed to be in water, I'd cover it with glue with chemically hardening resin
you can and in a combined way - tar inside a can and glue and a second can on the outside - it all depends on how durable it should be and how much money we are going to spend on the connection

of course, the most important thing here is safety

Hello

I recommend the epoxy method. You put the place where the connection is in some box and just flood it. This is the best solution I know. The condition is, of course, that the cable is well degreased.

I have to correct the subject a bit here, because the cable will go in a separate PVC tube that protects the cable from moisture from the ground, but the connection must be hermetic because condensation can form in it, I will try with glue and heat shrink, what glue do you recommend ????? ??

roburek123 wrote:

what kind of glue do you recommend??????

I recommend Distal, a Polish two-component epoxy adhesive (necessarily slow-curing, there is also a fast-curing variety, but it is not so good).

Regarding heat shrink, I recommend the ones with glue. Widely used for years in telecommunications and increasingly in the power industry. Besides, I still understand that we are talking about cables with PVC insulation and sheath, not rubber. Because in the case of rubber, it's a bit different technology and materials.

Gentlemen, we are in the 21st century, let's use cable repair technologies, it really costs little compared to the device.
http//www.cellpack.de
I trade it if you want. (:

Hello
bye10 You are right You have rightly noticed that we are in the 21st century!
With today's technology, printing something like

Quote:

I recommend Distal, Polish epoxy glue

Whether

Quote:

I recommend the epoxy method

or (what made me laugh the most)

Quote:

some electricians just pour tar on it

is a clear underestimation of the electrode level People, come to your senses!!!

Quote:

roburek123 wrote:
what kind of glue do you recommend??????

I recommend Distal, a Polish two-component epoxy adhesive (necessarily slow-curing, there is also a fast-curing variety, but it is not so good).

My friend marbac
Somehow I can't imagine a permanent connection between PVC and distal
The effect of this connection will be the same as, for example, gluing an inner tube with epoxy resin
There is a simple rule when gluing, of course only if we want to glue something well! The adhesive, or rather the dried adhesive layer, must have similar parameters as the substrate. The smaller the differences, the more durable the bonding. This applies to all adhesives. The adhesive must work with the substrate! It must stretch and contract just like the substrate
Sorry for going off topic, but it just hit me
I greet arthur

How often Adam Słodowy appeared on TV and people are scheming.(:

http://www.gph.pl/catalogs/GPH_1KV_2005.pdf
http://www.radpol.com.pl/produkty/term18.html
http://www.kable.elektra.pl/p_m_muf.php
etc

The original kit from GRUNDFOS (a manufacturer of pumps) for connecting wires includes 3 metal sleeves and 4 heat-shrinkable tubes. You can give up with sleeves because you need a press, and the wires can, for example, be soldered.
3 sleeves are for single wires and the fourth one is about 30 meters long, covered with glue from the inside as hot glue (for the gun). Such tubes can be easily purchased.
This connection is suitable for direct burial into the ground.
I made several such connections, the oldest about 9 years ago and so far there has been no problem.

A colleague has just described a typical LV cable joint. The price of such a set, depending on the size, varies between PLN 20-80, available at any electrical wholesaler.
Grundfos does not manufacture joints, so I suspect that the price will be much higher. (:

answer for Cobra

I don't see any contraindications for flooding the wires with glue or epoxy resin in a can or a rigid pipe.
And as for the new technologies of the 21st century, yes, they are good and cheaper. However, I have been working in the food industry for many years, where people with low technical culture clean machines with pressure washers every day and believe me, water can get anywhere, even IP67, not to mention IP65. The exception are modules sealed with resin.

Hello, cable cores soldered plus self-vulcanizing insulation. Available in electrical stores and wholesalers.

Regards
ArteXL

You can do it that way, but that's what I did when the sets were expensive and not popular.

Now for some arguments:

Production time using the ArteXL method for an average 4x4 cable for a submersible pump 1-1.5h, time for making a coupler with a set, e.g. SMH4, about 20-30 minutes.
The cost of materials is similar, the hourly cost of the crane needed to replace the pump is about PLN 300.
A working hour for a human is about PLN 30.
Who knows how to add will understand.

One more thing: submersible pumps usually pump drinking water. Epidiam tars etc. are not on the list of materials approved for contact with food.

To Marbats:
http://www.cbcpoland.pl/index_pliki/tech/ip.pdf
read on and you'll know why.

papa10 wrote:

One more thing: submersible pumps usually pump drinking water. Epidiam tars etc. are not on the list of materials approved for contact with food.

direct contact with food! There are harmful or even poisonous components in every machine. But they do not come into direct contact with food.

papa10 wrote:

http://www.cbcpoland.pl/index_pliki/tech/ip.pdf
read on and you'll know why.

And the results of this is?

My friend marbac
If you think that the wires, even though they are firmly attached, do not work, you are wrong Do you know the phenomenon of mutual attraction of cables under the influence of electric current Do you think that cables under load do not heat up All this has a direct impact on the insulation performance None epoxy resin will not seal the cable insulation Regardless of whether the connector is placed in a box or not Water will penetrate between the adhesive layer and the cable insulation anyway If you still insist on your own, consider how much it costs to replace such a cable in a deep well
Best regards and good luck with your epoxy sealing, but keep this information to yourself
Arthur

I once, more than 10 years ago, insulated the connection of cables in a flooded submersible pump with Scotch self-vulcanizing tape. The pump has not been removed since then, so the connection is probably reliable.

of course, the methods described above and well done will fulfill their task, just why play with scoth or bichop or paragum insulating tape, and rubber was glued even earlier, how to do it easily and pleasantly with a set of heat shrinkable pipes, and as I wrote above with a good made with a guarantee of reliability, which is of key importance when powering submersible pumps, considering the costs of pulling out and re-flooding the pump.

Hello, I made this connection according to Your recommendations, first the cores of the cable connected with a heat-shrinkable sleeve, then thermal glue, then a heat-shrinkable sleeve, another layer of self-vulcanizing tape and another heat-shrinkable sleeve.
Thank you so much for help

Hello.

Reheating the chop so as not to start a new topic.

I have the following problem. In the ground garden, I have a 220V cable to the socket in the box. I would like to put such a second box in another part of the garden. The idea is to cut the old cable and attach a wire to it for this future box, but I don't know how to hermetically secure this connection. Unfortunately, heat shrink tubes fall off, because it is a tee. What are your suggestions?

Regards

A layer of self-fusing, then a layer of ordinary insulation (not one layer of tape, of course). I couldn't believe how they told me that something like this isolates perfectly. When I cut and sliced the cable connection of a submersible pump that spent 6 years in water, I conclude that this is the best way.

We insulated the pumps first with insulating tape and then with vulcanizing tape as it was left permanently in the water. It happened that the only insulation for a live and for the entire cable and it also works without a problem

You can use self-vulcanizing tape, but it is much easier and faster to buy a heat-shrinkable cable joint of the appropriate diameter, it is just adapted to work underground

I did it sometimes so that I put a thick heat shrink tube on the joint, silicone from the tube inside until it goes through and there are no air bubbles, and I shrunk the ends of this tube a little fresh.
A hot-glued joint would also probably do the trick - you would have to throw a thin stick of glue inside, heat it slowly and for a long time, so that it floods all the gaps and flows out.

Hello
IP 67 box, appropriate glands for this and problem solved There is only one condition Everything thoroughly cleaned of dirt, dust and properly screwed As a last resort, you can always fill the box with silicone
Regards