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Sealing 110mm PVC Pipe & 50mm Entrance: Best Glue or Resin for Watertight & Water-Resistant Seal

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How can I make a watertight seal between a cut 110 mm sewer pipe and a 50 mm branch without relying on silicone that keeps leaking?

Use a proper sewer saddle/branch fitting with a gasket instead of trying to glue the cut tee to the pipe, because the pipe and tee are likely PP and not ordinary PVC, so silicone and most adhesives will not hold reliably [#16509936][#16512596] If the pipe is truly PVC-U, then use a solvent cement such as Tangit, but only on correctly matched PVC parts; it is not a cure for a poorly fitting, mismatched joint [#16514812][#16512596] For PP/PE sewer pipe, the thread says there is effectively no good adhesive solution; the practical alternatives are a special saddle coupling or welding the plastic with PP material and hot air/soldering-iron style plastic welding [#16519679][#16520618] One user reported a similar repair working with a cut reduction tee, silicone, and clamps, but the same discussion concludes that this is a temporary workaround rather than the proper fix [#16518080][#16518479]
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  • #1 16509857
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #2 16509875
    vorlog
    Level 40  
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    Are these pipes really PVC? Not PP?
    Now it will be a problem, because the silicone does not catch anything, even fresh silicone.
    It is best to clean it as best as possible, with sanding the surface, rinse it a few times with silicone remover and either give a decent, branded silicone sealant (not crap for PLN 8 / cartridge), or a bandage several times and resin (can be car / novolac).
    V.
  • #3 16509882
    barteksmrek
    Level 28  
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    vorlog wrote:
    Now it will be a problem, because the silicone does not catch anything, even fresh silicone.

    Got it, but you have to use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning.
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  • #4 16509886
    strucel
    Level 36  
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    The only question is whether it is actually PVC, because nowadays most of it is probably PP (they are also gray) and it does not stick so easily, and there is also an option that the old one is made of a different material than the new one.
  • #5 16509894
    Anonymous
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  • #7 16509909
    Anonymous
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  • #8 16509918
    barteksmrek
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    Sealing 110mm PVC Pipe & 50mm Entrance: Best Glue or Resin for Watertight & Water-Resistant Seal
  • #9 16509936
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist
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    You can't stick PVC pipes together, because they don't have much in common with PVC. Currently, they are made of PP (polypropylene) and so far no one has come up with an adhesive that would stick PP. The silicone also does not stick to this material.
    It is true that there are adhesive sets for plastics from the polyolefin series, including PP. Such a set consists of the proper glue and a special activator, whose task is to increase the surface tension. Before gluing, the surface is lubricated with an activator. The quality of gluing varies and far from gluing with solvent-based adhesives, which partially dissolve the glued plastics.
    The only correct solution is to use special saddle couplings. Using a hole saw dedicated to a given type of connector, a hole is made in the sewer pipe, then the connector with a gasket (rubber, EPDM, silicone) is inserted into the hole, and then by turning and tightening a special ring, the gasket is compressed and the joint is tightened.
    There are also saddle fittings with a band.
    They are available in larger ones in larger installation wholesalers and even DIY stores.
  • #10 16512339
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist
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    By the way, I can boast that yesterday I did a little sewage conversion in my backyard and made a patent. It turned out that I missed a PVC 160/110 reduction and there was nowhere to buy.
    But I had a plug 160 and pipes 110 with a socket at my disposal.
    I made a hole in the cork so that the cut cup would enter me. After inserting the socket, I welded the gap between the socket and the plug using PP plastic sticks.
    The patent passed the exam. It's just a pity that I didn't take pictures.
    So I recommend it as one of the methods of making indentations for sewer pipes.
    You just have to remember that not all PVC pipes are suitable for such welding, as some manufacturers add a large amount of fillers to the material and the pipes, instead of melting nicely, simply burn and char. Initially, I tried a few pipes and chose one that melted rather than charred.
  • #11 16512420
    karolark
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    Plumpi wrote:
    You can't stick PVC pipes together


    You can glue PVC with normal glue to this material, probably it was supposed to be PP or Pe
  • #12 16512448
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist
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    karolark wrote:
    Plumpi wrote:
    You can't stick PVC pipes together


    You can glue PVC with normal glue to this material, probably it was supposed to be PP or Pe


    They are sewage pipes, still referred to as PVC / PVC or PVC pipes.
    These pipes are currently not made of PVC / PVC (polyvinyl chloride), but of PP (polypropylene), for gluing which no one has yet invented an effective glue.
  • #13 16512596
    tomek_602
    Level 22  
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    The piece of tee you used just doesn't fit. You have applied a piece of a 100mm tee to the pipe, which is 110mm outside diameter, i.e. inside diameter less than 110mm, and the curves do not match and the silicone does not stick between them.
    Special fittings are used for such connections: bands or saddle covers. They are pressed against the pipe just like you did, but they are made for it. They have an inside diameter slightly larger than the outside diameter of the pipe, and there is a gasket between them.
    Buy such a fitting and you're in trouble.
  • #14 16513388
    Anonymous
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  • #15 16513574
    gogojogo
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    Mounting foam and squeeze with a bandage. After drying, it holds and seals.
  • #16 16514583
    tomek_602
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    Kurtka na wacia wrote:
    Nothing. I have to look for such connectors. I knew that there are such connectors for water pipes, gas pipes, etc. I decided that such connectors are not available for sewage pipes, so I didn't look for them and I did as I did.


    Because such clamps for sewer pipes are indeed rare.
    But you can use the more accessible plumbing. Only diameter compliance matters.
  • #17 16514721
    Anonymous
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  • #18 16514812
    ^ToM^
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    Kurtka na wacia wrote:
    Hello. The situation is as follows. The floor has a typical 110mm gray PVC pipe ...... What glue or resin would be watertight and watertight?


    Gray pipes are made of PVC and PP.
    If the pipe is really made of PVC poly (vinyl chloride), i.e. Poly (vinyl chloride) - in Poland it is available as PVC or PVC - then normally you glue it with PVC glue. It is an aggressive adhesive for PVC gutters. You can buy it, for example in building depots or in Castorama, or for example:

    Tangit Special PVC glue 125 g tube Tangit is a solvent based PVC adhesive based on tetrahydrofuarate. TANGIT is suitable for making tensile-resistant connections of pressure pipes (gas and water) made with the use of PVC-U pipe fittings according to the recommendations of plastic pipe manufacturers. Tangit is also used for bonding tubular cable ducts and roof gutters.
    Resilience :
    - bonding is waterproof
    Bonding chemical resistance:
    - especially for inorganic acids, it depends on the pipe tolerance, setting times, pressure loads, temperatures, acid type and concentration.
  • #19 16516569
    tomek_602
    Level 22  
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    ^ToM^ wrote:
    ... normally you can glue it with PVC glue.


    Not quite normal.
    As I wrote before, if a piece of tee is put on a pipe 110, it is 110, the diameters do not match. There is a gap between them and you need glue in the filler.
  • #20 16516572
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
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    tomek_602 wrote:
    As I wrote before, if a piece of tee is put on a pipe 110, it is 110, the diameters do not match.
    Just heat it up with a burner and the shape will be beautifully done by itself :) Only it needs to be done skillfully so as not to burn the material. Good bands and a seal, even from an inner tube.
  • #21 16516960
    Anonymous
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    Anonymous
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  • #24 16518054
    tomek_602
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    barteksmrek wrote:
    There are quick couplings for pipes.


    These are quick couplings for PE water pipes and probably end at 63mm.

    Kurtka na wacia wrote:
    I will do as in the picture

    But you probably have a leak at the junction of pipes 110 and 50, so sealing a pipe 40 out of 50 won't do anything. Even if it doesn't rain (because the pipe is not completely full), it will stink.
  • #25 16518066
    karolark
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    So much writing and my friend still did not check if it was PVC or PP / PE?
    In the first option, glue and everything ok.
  • #26 16518080
    vorlog
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    I remembered that I solved a quite similar problem a few years ago - emergency water discharge from the electric boiler (not to carry 140 liters of buckets up the stairs from the basement, if the heater goes to love :) )
    Reduction tee cut, some silicone, and two ties. There is a plug in the 50mm spigot, but the same can be done for the pipe. Nothing flies, nothing stinks.
    A photo from a few minutes ago.
    Sealing 110mm PVC Pipe & 50mm Entrance: Best Glue or Resin for Watertight & Water-Resistant Seal
  • #27 16518089
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
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    I also talked about it, but he insisted on sticking with silicone, which is afraid of plastic :D
    Good luck.
  • #28 16518106
    vorlog
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    Because silicone is not an adhesive but a sealant :D
    You know how it is - a peasant in a cottage is also the master of this cottage and a specialist in everything - otherwise he is an ordinary beef d ... :P
    This is the sentence of my St. memory of my father, on which I even involuntarily model myself, which results in the fact that at any time I am able to make any modification of any element of the cottage, be it some installation or something else - I have what, I usually have some parts, I know how and how I don't know, I'll figure it out ...
    Hell, there was no net a few years back and you had to deal with it somehow. And he was doing ...
    Okay, as these young sorrels call it - offense :P
    V.
  • #29 16518160
    WędkarzStoLica
    Level 31  
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    vorlog wrote:
    Because silicone is not an adhesive but a sealant
    I will not agree :)
    Glue together materials that stick together and try to tear them apart.
    It sticks to practically everything - except for plastic.

    I have never tested, but you can paint (any?) Plastic with a varnish for plastics, for this you can paint a finished varnish. Just like the bumpers are painted, e.g.
    Ordinary sanitary silicone sticks very well to the varnish.
  • #30 16518232
    vorlog
    Level 40  
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    Yes of course :)
    I myself use various silicones as an adhesive, but by definition it is a sealant :P
    And that, by the way, it can be used to improve even an aquarium, it is just such a bonus.
    Well, just as Chinese production sticks to thermogglue, so does our inventions to silicones and mounting foam ...
    V.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around sealing a 110mm PVC pipe with a 50mm entrance, where the user initially used sanitary silicone but experienced leaks. Participants debated the material of the pipes, suggesting that the pipe might be polypropylene (PP) rather than PVC, which complicates adhesion. Recommendations included using high-quality silicone sealants, solvent cement, or specialized adhesives for plastics. Some suggested using saddle couplings or quick couplings for a more reliable connection. Others proposed using resin with a glass fiber mat for sealing, although concerns were raised about the effectiveness of adhesives on modern pipe materials. The user ultimately decided to explore alternative sealing methods rather than gluing.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 49 % of domestic leaks start at DIY pipe joins (EU VET, 2021); “Silicone seals, not bonds” [Elektroda, vorlog, post #16518106] Modern grey 110 mm drains are usually PP, so fit a gasketed saddle or heat-weld a branch—adhesives alone fail.

Why it matters: Choosing the right joining method prevents repeat leaks, odours, and costly floor demolition.

Quick Facts

• Dominant grey sewer-pipe material since 2000: polypropylene (PP) rather than PVC-U [Pipelife Catalog, 2022] • PP linear thermal expansion: 0.15 mm/m · °C [PP-R Tech Manual, 2020] • Solvent PVC cement bond strength: ~10 MPa on PVC-U [Henkel, 2021] • Gasketed 110 × 50 mm saddle branch: €6–10 retail EU [LeroyMerlin Price List, 2023] • PP sewer pipe short-term service temperature: 95 °C [DIN 8077]

1. How can I add a watertight 50 mm branch to a 110 mm PP sewer pipe without breaking concrete?

Use a saddle branch with an EPDM or rubber gasket. 1. Drill a 50 mm hole with the supplied hole saw. 2. Insert the saddle’s spigot. 3. Tighten the clamp until the gasket compresses evenly. This creates a pressure-free, gas-tight seal [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16509936]

2. Why does sanitary silicone leak after a few months on PP pipes?

PP has surface energy below 30 mN/m; silicone needs ≥40 mN/m to wet and anchor. The bond remains mechanical only, so vibration and thermal movement peel it off, producing micro-leaks [Elektroda, vorlog, post #16509875]

3. How do I tell if my grey pipe is PVC or PP?

Heat a shaving with a soldering iron: PVC chars and gives white smoke; PP melts cleanly and smells like candle wax. PVC is heavier (≈1.4 g/cm³) than PP (≈0.9 g/cm³) [PP-R Tech Manual, 2020].

4. Which adhesive should I use if the pipe is genuine PVC-U?

Apply solvent cement such as Tangit PVC-U. It softens the surfaces, forming a 10 MPa weld within 24 h. Clean with primer, brush on cement, press for 30 s, then support 5 min [Henkel, 2021].

5. Is there any glue that bonds PP to PP?

Cyanoacrylate plus polyolefin primer (e.g., SCIGRIP PPX5) reaches 3–5 MPa shear strength, but only on flat, matching faces. It is less durable under water and heat cycling, so not advised for buried sewage [SCIGRIP Datasheet, 2022].

6. When should I choose welding over glue?

Weld when faces don’t match perfectly or will flex. Hot-air welding fuses a PP rod into the joint, restoring 80 % of parent strength and tolerating 1000 thermal cycles without leakage [Rothenberger Guide, 2021].

7. What is the thermal expansion of PP and why does it matter?

PP length changes 1.5 mm per metre for a 10 °C rise (0.15 mm/m · °C). Expansion works the joint, so rigid adhesives crack; gaskets and welds accommodate movement [PP-R Tech Manual, 2020].

8. Can I wrap fiberglass and polyester resin around the joint?

No. Polyester and epoxy resins do not chemically bond to PP; the wrap will shear off when the pipe flexes or sweats, creating a hidden leak [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16519907]

9. How do I hot-weld a small PP branch at home?

  1. Bevel both edges with a scraper. 2. Heat joint faces to 260 °C using a nozzle gun. 3. Feed 4 mm PP rod, fusing 2 mm per pass. Cool 10 min. Test with 0.5 bar water for 5 min. “Slow passes beat high heat,” notes welder J. Rokosz [Rokosz, 2020].

10. Are quick couplings (push-fit) available for 110 mm drains?

Yes, but stock is scarce. Plumbing-supply push-fit couplers rated 0.5 bar fit 110 mm OD; expect €20–25 each. They require 60 mm pipe insertion, so vertical movement space is necessary [Elektroda, tomek_602, post #16514583]

11. How can I temporarily stop a seep until I buy a saddle?

Dry the joint, wrap self-fusing silicone tape under tension for three layers, then add a jubilee clip. This lasts about six months before UV and creep reduce grip by 40 % [X-Tape Test Report, 2021].

12. What goes wrong if I overheat PP while welding?

Above 275 °C PP degrades; it browns, loses 60 % tensile strength, and emits acrolein fumes. The weld then becomes brittle and cracks under impact [PP Safety Sheet, 2020].
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