OCz 500 Watt Power Supply and Ever Strip causing House Fuses to Blow - Possible Causes?

Hello
I have the following problem.
I have an ever strip still under warranty.
The power supply in the computer is new OCz 500 watt. The problem is that often when I turn on the strip, it blows the fuses in my house. but not always and I don't know where
there's a problem.
A computer with a new power supply is connected to the strip.
I thought maybe the fault of the socket, but I connected the strip to another and the same.
And at the moment I do not know if the problem is in the power strip switch or in the computer, maybe in the new power supply (I replaced the cable from the power supply, without improvement).

I tried to connect other devices to the strip and it was ok, but when the computer is connected, it often crashes. Once I can turn it on several times and it's ok, and sometimes it crashes the first time, I see a spark on the switch.

Maybe you can advise something, the strip and the power supply are under warranty, but I don't know where to send it, I don't want to fool around, and maybe the motherboard is something. If the problem was repeatable, I would quickly solve it, but I can't.

thanks for the help

connect the power supply without the power strip and see if you blow the fuse. Is it a good idea?
I have the same vacuum cleaner in my room. In my opinion, the fuse is too sensitive, replacement should help, although let others speak.

I don't really have a way to connect the computer directly to the socket, the cable is too short :/

When the computer is connected to a normal extension cord (the one without a switch), naturally nothing happens.

I think I'll buy a second strip with a switch and only then I'll find out if the fault of the strip or the computer, and if the computer, I don't know if it's the fault of my new allowance or something with the motherboard :/

the motherboard has nothing to do with it.

and also check what is the maximum load of the strip

Hello, I had a similar problem in the strip, the ground wire shorted 2 others, I insulated and after the trouble

Is it a letter like this?

Yes, it's a letter, but does it matter?

This skirting board cannot be dismantled, it should be claimed if there is such a possibility. If not, a new skirting board must be purchased.

Hmm, but how do I know if it's the fault of the strip or the power supply??
How to check it, I do not have another strip with a switch.

Connect something that consumes several hundred W (vacuum cleaner or something else that consumes power) and check if it still crashes on another receiver, then check what devices you have connected on a given phase and what is their total power:] (do you happen to have a high power consumption almost on contact).

it is the fault of this strip, so I had to make sure.
This strip has a maximum load [W]: 460. You must buy a new strip that will have more than 500< otherwise it will crash all the time. The strip crashes randomly because sometimes it will surprise and sometimes it won't because it blows the fuses.
That's it

So yes, I connected the second strip of evera and the same. Naturally, sometimes it crashes only on the switch, if I don't move the switch, nothing happens. One evera I have the standard of the other comfort (so I already know that it is not the strip that is broken).

Earlier I had a 350 Watt modecom power supply, and I never had these problems, now I have an OCZ 500 WAT.

I connected the vacuum cleaner and it's ok, but if I first turn on the vacuum cleaner button and then put it in the strip, it crashes.

And now 2 questions, if before turning on the strip, I will cut off the power in the computer (with the button on the back on the power supply, it will not crash), but is it normal?? should it be like that? that I have to turn off the power first on the power supply and then turn on the power on the strip??

Has anyone seen strips that have a greater load on one socket than those evera?

But can you send the power supply to the service, maybe something is wrong with it?

thanks for the help

Re 1
Check how much power you have on a given phase of power consumption (if there is no situation after turning on the receiver / computer or vacuum cleaner, the total instantaneous power / sum of power of all receivers that can normally operate with a given fuse / - the easiest way is to get to the fuse box and by turning it off or on, track what you have connected to a given power line).

Then calculate the power of everything that is connected there: voltage, result in Amperes, add +25% to this result (correction just in case, e.g. connectors or start of receivers) if the value is close to the fuse amperage (about 16 A / about 3kW in a thicker round ) then you have an overload of the power line when the device starts up (you can circumvent this with toys so that they turn on the receiver at the zero point, but it's too much to mess around with supplies in the network and you need a certificate to get it so that there are no problems in case of an accident, self-made so drops out).

As you have 16A fuses on a given phase and you pull > 2.5 kW, it is possible that the overload at the time of switching on the receiver (temporary increased power consumption for charging electrolytes, etc. start-up - it is normal that during start-up the rated power of the receiver is exceeded by some percentage). The most sensible thing would then be to switch something to another phase to reduce the power consumption from a given phase.

Since both the power supply and another receiver cause overloads, it is normal (exceeding the current and therefore blowing the overcurrent fuse) and correct because this is how the protection works so that, for example, there is no fire due to a short circuit in the electrical installation.
It is possible that something like this happens: the sine wave goes up and down, you turn it on and there is a temporary break above the level ('pin' in the power supply) as a result of connecting another receiver, which in turn triggers the fuse.

Re 2
Something like a soft start would be useful, but I doubt if computer power supplies etc. will like it and if it will not be damaged due to the soft start system (read: the power supply could not survive it).

Try to give a stronger strip and if it doesn't work, relieve the power line (phase).

Added after 2 [minutes]:

km4 wrote:

connect the power supply without the power strip and see if you blow the fuse. Is it a good idea?
I have the same vacuum cleaner in my room. In my opinion, the fuse is too sensitive, replacement should help, although let others speak.

Reaction time, but I doubt you would get something legal and certified, it's best to talk to an electrician, probably SEP'owszczyzna - that is, the response time of the fuse, and the pulse width of the "pin" and safety in the event that this 'pin' was the result of an electric shock of the human factor (i.e. slower a fuse can kill [allow an electric shock for too long] and a too fast one will blow every single pin).

Firstly, connect to the last PC socket, before the last one is Monitor,

If it doesn't crash, then use the cable from the monitor to test the next sockets,

a stronger strip should pass the exam,

Read about your power supplies on the manufacturer's website...

Nothing happens to the strip if I don't use the switch from it. The computer runs and does nothing.

Also, nothing happens if I turn on the strip (and earlier I turn off the power supply with the button on the back of the housing).

The fuse crashes even when the computer itself without a monitor is connected to this strip!

I would like to buy a new, stronger strip, but nowhere does it mention the load on one socket, but only about the entire strip, i.e. 2000 or 3500 watts. I don't know what to buy.

Connect the computer through a regular extension cord and see if it blows the fuse. If so, just change to a larger one or the same but slow-blow.

hm, you probably didn't read it, nothing happens with an ordinary extension cord, nothing happens with these strips either. It only happens when I press the power button on this strip

Maybe you have a varistor damaged in this strip, because I understand that it has a built-in fuse and it does not burn out, only the main one throws it out, although I doubt it, or some strong sparking when turned on, which is more likely due to high current consumption.

I have two evera strips and both throw a fuse at home, so I rather doubt that both are broken.

And what turns off is a fuse or maybe a residual current device? (Then on the housing you have the activation threshold, e.g. 30 mA and usually the test button).

I don't know what switch I have, I've never seen a test button.
Anyone know of any power strips with a load greater than 460 watts per socket?
Can someone knowledgeable tell me if it's the power supply?

Buddy, it's best to let an electrician see it and it will be after trouble. After all, it is a voltage of 230V~.

No, he won't, because it's the skirting board's fault. Specifically, the copied filter design. By connecting everything that consumes a lot of electricity and turning it on with a switch in the strip, you will knock out the plugs. And another unanswered question, crashes "S" or differential?

This is due to the fact that this strip has a bad switch, the contacts are slowly coming together, the spark is jumping, the varistor is releasing the overvoltage, the plug is knocking out. Change the manufacturer of the skirting board, or better get a regular extender.

labok wrote:

I don't know what switch I have, I've never seen a test button.
Anyone know of any power strips with a load greater than 460 watts per socket?
Can someone knowledgeable tell me if it's the power supply?

My friend still can't believe that his wonderful skirting board is failing because it has 2, standard and comfort :sm8:

In my case, the Lestar strip from the LV series also knocked out plugs, even without a load.
It also depends on the installation. In the previous apartment, it was breaking because he wanted to. Apparently, the fuse (type S) was a bit flimsy, or the cable cross-section in the installation was too small.
In a new place, it was crashing due to contamination inside. After cleaning there was no problem.

Well, it's hard for me to believe because I have 2 letters so the probability that as many as 2 strips are broken that have a 5-year warranty is low. The power supply that was previously in the 350 WAT computer did not cause such problems, so logic dictates that maybe something with the new power supply.

And if it's the fault of these 2 letters? so it probably doesn't qualify for warranty?
what brand of slats do you recommend, since evera are bad? :)

I don't know what this fuse is called, they are all automatic, and it's not the main fuse responsible for everything :)

Regards

Apparently mine also has a 5-year warranty, and after 2 years of use, it was the fuses that were happening.
I already have a second Lestar at home and I have almost never had any problems with them
Both are from the better series, have 2 fuses, and, depending on the model, an ethernet filter.

I prefer self-made. You know exactly what's inside. Give a piece of decent 2.5mm^2 cable (if you buy it in a store, it will turn out to be thicker than all the ones you have at home), I prefer OWY, in rubber insulation. A decent plug, hermetic. A twist switch like from a concrete mixer and several sockets with double springs in the contacts. All on a tasteful piece of board.

@wojtek__(KeFir) very interesting, you can present this strip, it sucks me out of curiosity.

Just because it has a 5-year warranty doesn't mean it's a good security bar.
Check the specification of the skirting board, it will be useful when you insist on this guarantee. They can send you back saying that you chose a power supply that is not really designed for such things (this is the power consumption).
If you don't know what to take, go to the store, get a strip a little higher and see how it will perform. You can also ask those who do once on vegetables once on rtv how it is with the slats. Ask for any returns, because you can do that.