Frequent Breaker Trips: Testing Differential and Fuse Blowouts with Iron Use

Hello
This is my first post on this forum, so I`d like to say hello.

I have a fairly new electrical installation (building from 2000). One differential for the entire circuit (25A 30mA) and 5 circuit breakers. The problem is that if I test the differential with the test button, which disconnects the entire circuit and then turns it on, it blows out the socket fuse (16A), and what`s worse, it often blows out the meter fuse (20A) at the same time. . This also happened when my wife was using the iron, it sometimes blew two fuses at the same time: the one at home and the one at the meter. At first I thought it was the fault of the fuse in the house (there was a 10A fuse installed there, so I replaced it with a 16A one). It seemed a bit strange to me that someone installed 10A sockets on the circuit. I checked in the switchboard that the thickness of the wires is the same everywhere, so there shouldn`t be a problem). All elements in the switchgear are new, I replaced them a month ago (mooeler). The problem also existed before the replacement. Please help me solve the problem

Regards

The fuses are type B. I tried using type C sockets, but nothing changed. Electronic equipment (DVD, Home Cinema, plasma, computer) is connected to the sockets, but when the system is turned on, the plasma and the computer are turned off.

This is an apartment. I wrote that I tested with a type C fuse on the circuit with sockets and the problem did not disappear. The refrigerator is a completely different circuit. The largest high-power device that I connect to this circuit is an iron (2100W) on which it also throws. I did a test with an iron, I disconnected everything from the sockets, turned on only the iron and after 20 minutes it quit. It blew at a 10A fuse (which gives 2300W) and at 16A (3680W). I replaced the sockets in the entire apartment with new ones about 1 month ago (Polo Optima and I also checked them recently).

I don`t understand a few things:
1. Why does it blow 2 fuses in the house and at the meter, e.g. on a connected iron

2. Does it make sense to use a type C fuse in the house if the meter has a type B fuse? Will selectivity be maintained?

I`m starting to suspect the fuse next to the meter, maybe it`s worn out. There is a Legrand 20A TyB Eska, but it is sealed

A C fuse for a single-phase socket is a bit of style over substance. How much of this equipment do you have at home? refrigerator, vacuum cleaner, and does it happen that they all start at the same time...., the pre-meter may be C, but for socket circuits it is not standard.

AD.1 There`s clearly something wrong with the installation, call a tester, it`s not the fuses that are to blame, the iron draws 10A and if it outputs 16 and 20, it`s not magic, it`s something wrong, there is a possibility of a life-threatening situation, so it`s not funny anymore.

AD.2 It`s the other way around, C for the meter and B for the circuits, so it`s a bad idea.

When turning off the circuit, e.g. with a differential switch, all fuses are on, so when they are turned on there may be a voltage surge, but as I wrote earlier, the problem also occurs when I only connect the iron. Generally, all my equipment is equipped with UPC surge protectors (higher models). The fuse at the meter you B. Why does it blow out two fuses?

Because Skis are not very selective, when overloaded they all crash one by one.

edit.
You disconnected the electronics and power strips, and only the iron remained and the fuse blew?

If you have not disconnected the strips, it is not strange that the fuse blows, when you turn it on, an overvoltage may occur and then the strip shorts and you have your own flying fuse. There is a saying about excess security....

I will check everything carefully again and maybe call an electrician.

Please answer a few more questions:

1. If a voltage surge were a problem, is there any way to protect against it?

2. Could a damaged fuse at the meter cause the fuse in the house to also turn off? Recently I checked the fuse on the cage and it seemed to be buzzing a bit.

3. I`ll go off topic a bit. As I wrote earlier, I replaced all fuses at home. Before the replacement, there was a buzzing noise in the switchboard (it wasn`t a short circuit - something like that can be heard when you walk past a transformer on a pole, only quieter) if something that consumes a little more power was connected, e.g. an iron. After replacing all the components, the buzzing stopped. what could be the reason for such a situation?

Added after 1 [minute]:

lubamet wrote:

Because Skis are not very selective, when overloaded they all crash one by one.

edit.
You disconnected the electronics and power strips, and only the iron remained and the fuse blew?

If you have not disconnected the strips, it is not strange that the fuse blows, when you turn it on, an overvoltage may occur and then the strip shorts and you have your own flying fuse. There is a saying about excess security....

The strips were connected

130880 wrote:

I will check everything carefully again and maybe call an electrician.

Please answer a few more questions:

1. If a voltage surge were a problem, is there any way to protect against it?

2. Could a damaged fuse at the meter cause the fuse in the house to also turn off? Recently I checked the fuse on the cage and it seemed to be buzzing a bit.

3. I`ll go off topic a bit. As I wrote earlier, I replaced all fuses at home. Before the replacement, there was a buzzing noise in the switchboard (it wasn`t a short circuit - something like that can be heard when you walk past a transformer on a pole, only quieter) if something that consumes a little more power was connected, e.g. an iron. After replacing all the components, the buzzing stopped. what could be the reason for such a situation?

1. Strip, only it works by blowing a fuse, either in the strip, or in the house, or all of them, I use protectors in front of the meter so that it doesn`t blow fuses in the house....
2.There is no such possibility.
3. It can be fidgety sometimes, especially from bush companies, the overcurrent element is an electromagnet and if there is any play somewhere, there will be a zzzzzz. (and this does not mean a fuse failure, only the workmanship of... the company KRZA )

Edit. Disconnect the strip, if it doesn`t work, you already know where the problem is, you have too good strips they may be a little too sensitive.
You can invest in a B+C surge protector for a rail and leave the strips aside.

Can you describe to me how to attach such a protector? I think I have a Moeller protector somewhere, only it has three halves.

If you took a photo of it, it would be nice, attach it in the same way as the differential, but in front of it.

Arrester > differential > fuses

lubamet wrote:

If you took a photo of it, it would be nice, attach it the same way as the differential, but in front of it.

Arrester > differential > fuses

http://www.moeller.pl/DesktopDefault.aspx?PageID=317

I only have a four-field one, but it seems to me that only one field can be used

You connect the phase from the top and PE from the bottom
One field can be used.
I was misleading because it is a bit different from the differential, basically in parallel to the network and the differential is in series. But it`s a rush
There is a diagram on the Moeller website.
You don`t unplug anything from the current installation, you plug it in in parallel, that`s the whole philosophy.

Check if it will be OK, I take PE (yellow-green) from anywhere in the switchboard

All right. Remember about the cross-sections of the cables, no smaller than in the rest of the installation.

ok, thanks for your help. Tomorrow I will connect the fuse and see if anything improves.

I will come back to the previous thread. What is the procedure for replacing the fuse at the meter? I understand that I need to contact ZE to have them unseal the fuse. I have my own fuse, do I incur any additional costs related to it (e.g. do I have to pay for an electrician from ZE and are any measurements required after such a replacement?

No measurements, the costs are from 50 and up depending on the region, the sealing itself costs money, and you still have to work hard to replace the fuse.
Sealing costs PLN 30 on average, and for attaching two screws it ranges from PLN 10 to PLN 1,000, free market

130880 wrote:

Check if it will be OK, I take PE (yellow-green) from anywhere in the switchboard

Someone probably forgot about N here.

Hurry slowly

I am returning to the pre-meter ES, it is currently type B, in my opinion it should be type C, at least I am the only one who installs it in accordance with the conditions it receives from ZE. Check your conditions (contract with ZE) imposed by ZE. Maybe it`s the installer`s fault for putting it like this? Has your friend experienced such a phenomenon at the beginning? Or has it been happening for some time? In my opinion, it is worth analyzing the matter thoroughly before taking any action.

Added after 13 [minutes]:

Regarding protectors, here`s a link to my friend, it`s worth reading.
www.spinpol.com.pl/download/Latwy_dobor_2006.pdf

Pre-counter, most likely C, in this case C20. Contracted power 4kW.

This situation existed from the beginning. Coming back to connecting the surge arrester. Can I connect a neutral wire to the second bay in the same way as the phase wire?

I drew it, look 2 posts above.

lubamet wrote:

I drew it, look 2 posts above.

I didn`t notice, but that`s what I`m going to do. I`ve seen opinions on other forums that only PE should be connected to the apartment house. What do you think?

http://www.ise.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12382&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

That`s why at the beginning I didn`t think about securing N at all, especially since you have a PEN distribution for PE and N somewhere close to your house, but if you secure it, there is no threat.
And at ISE they discussed a 3-phase network, you have 1 phase.
And they wrote something about the fuse on N (since there is a fuse on N, it`s not IT/TT), I think someone confused the fuse with the protector :/
And to top it off, they called the N phase, at least someone wrote that, what a disaster.
Secure.

ok, tomorrow I will connect everything and send a photo,
when I`m done

Regards

I connected the limiter, but it seems that the problem still exists. When I turned on the main fuse, the socket fuse at home blew. I will test it more thoroughly today.

I am sending photos from the installation:

There must be a faulty varistor in one of the strips and it releases too quickly, check without the strips, or check the strips one by one.
The switchboard is not the height of professionalism ;)

PS It probably came from the socket, where is that bad strip?

I didn`t do it separately and it`s much better now than it was when I first opened it. During the next renovation, I plan to replace it and then I will tidy it up. Either way, I have extra security. I will disconnect the strips and check without them (but only in the evening). In total, I have two strips connected in series on this socket, one of which also has a TV antenna connected.