I have a problem with removing the rim from the hub. I have already removed 3 wheels, but the last one does not want to go down, it is very seared. How is this wheel removed?

A large, 5 kg hammer with a feeling of the tire ... until it comes off. Just don't hit the rim edge.

Hello Not very professional, but sometimes I pee with a rust remover, loosen the screws and a little ride forward, brake and back and brake, you can also make a small moose / it depends which wheel to loosen /. If it does not help, there is KUBA 5 kg.

unfortunately the hammer idea did not help

The hammer is too small, too little accelerated ...

You can also use a cable and a second car, but not to this effect, it depends on the condition of the body:

Maybe a colleague is beating a hammer in one place, and you need to alternate around the perimeter.

Much better way than a hammer. You will only beat the rim with a hammer. As a colleague said above: you loosen slightly (so that the cone on the bolt / nut contacts the hole, not the screw thread) and make a sharp twisting maneuver several times until you succeed.

Get a hammer a little heavier and hit the bottom of the tire.

Eat for vulcanization, say that you are getting out of air, they have practice and methods, and after the trouble

Hit the inside of the tire with a bigger hammer, the wheel should come off;] but that's what I always do

Removing Stuck Steel Rim from Hub: Solutions for Seized & Hard-to-Remove Wheels

khali 41954 26

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#1 8656614 24 Oct 2010 11:54

khali khali

Level 13

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Post #1
8656614 24 Oct 2010 11:54

I have a problem with removing the rim from the hub.
I have already removed 3 wheels, but the last one does not want to go down, it is very seared. How is this wheel removed?
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#2 8656785 24 Oct 2010 12:37

yogi009 yogi009

Level 43

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Post #2
8656785 24 Oct 2010 12:37

A large, 5 kg hammer with a feeling of the tire ... until it comes off. Just don't hit the rim edge.
#3 8656833 24 Oct 2010 12:52

pioart pioart

Level 38

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Post #3
8656833 24 Oct 2010 12:52

Hello
Not very professional, but sometimes I pee with a rust remover, loosen the screws and a little ride forward, brake and back and brake, you can also make a small moose / it depends which wheel to loosen /. If it does not help, there is KUBA 5 kg.
#4 8657121 24 Oct 2010 13:56

khali khali

Level 13

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Post #4
8657121 24 Oct 2010 13:56

unfortunately the hammer idea did not help
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#5 8657169 24 Oct 2010 14:07

Pawel wawa Pawel wawa

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Post #5
8657169 24 Oct 2010 14:07

The hammer is too small, too little "accelerated" ...
#6 8657195 24 Oct 2010 14:16

Zico63 Zico63

Level 37

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Post #6
8657195 24 Oct 2010 14:16

You can also use a cable and a second car, but not to this effect, it depends on the condition of the body:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u48Pg6jcykQ
#7 8657203 24 Oct 2010 14:18

Witold5 Witold5

Level 32

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Post #7
8657203 24 Oct 2010 14:18

Maybe a colleague is beating a hammer in one place, and you need to alternate around the perimeter.
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#8 8657225 24 Oct 2010 14:22

andrzej lukaszewicz andrzej lukaszewicz

Level 41

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Post #8
8657225 24 Oct 2010 14:22

pioart wrote:
Hello
Not very professional, but sometimes I pee with a rust remover, loosen the screws and a little ride forward, brake and back and brake, you can also make a small moose / it depends which wheel to loosen /. If it does not help, there is KUBA 5 kg.

Much better way than a hammer. You will only beat the rim with a hammer.
As a colleague said above: you loosen slightly (so that the cone on the bolt / nut contacts the hole, not the screw thread) and make a sharp twisting maneuver several times until you succeed.
#9 8657461 24 Oct 2010 15:16

szyna352 szyna352

Level 10

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Post #9
8657461 24 Oct 2010 15:16

Get a hammer a little heavier and hit the bottom of the tire.
#10 8657480 24 Oct 2010 15:22

gebels1973 gebels1973

Level 15

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Post #10
8657480 24 Oct 2010 15:22

Eat for vulcanization, say that you are getting out of air, they have practice and methods, and after the trouble
#11 8657500 24 Oct 2010 15:26

majsster majsster

Level 23

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Post #11
8657500 24 Oct 2010 15:26

Hit the inside of the tire with a bigger hammer, the wheel should come off;] but that's what I always do
#12 8657548 24 Oct 2010 15:38

Przemo9826 Przemo9826

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Post #12
8657548 24 Oct 2010 15:38

Not really hammered It bounces off the tire I love it 1 bolt per pair of coils, I use WD40, I take the plank and I roll on the rim from the inside The board will not hurt the rim, and 1 bolt so that I do not have to look for the wheel somewhere far away
#13 8657935 24 Oct 2010 17:17

khali khali

Level 13

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Post #13
8657935 24 Oct 2010 17:17

Is it possible to slightly heat it with a burner in the place of the hub
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#14 8657959 24 Oct 2010 17:21

Przemo9826 Przemo9826

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Post #14
8657959 24 Oct 2010 17:21

What car? Star?
#15 8660445 25 Oct 2010 10:19

ogur3k ogur3k

Level 33

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Post #15
8660445 25 Oct 2010 10:19

As predecessors wrote, on the inside there is a board on the rim and you ride with a hammer.
It also depends on what holes you have in this rim, I had just the crowbar and it pressed against the shields from the inside and a healthy jerk.
In the future, clean the hubs with a wire brush, sand the hole in the hub with sandpaper, and grind it with some grease, it will not clog. Peace of mind for 10 years
#16 8660503 25 Oct 2010 10:38

wiesiek3d wiesiek3d

Level 29

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Post #16
8660503 25 Oct 2010 10:38

Loosen the screws and take the car a bit of a road with curves, but slowly, surely it will let go.
#17 8660604 25 Oct 2010 11:14

rs07 rs07

Level 20

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Post #17
8660604 25 Oct 2010 11:14

I used to be like that too. The steel rim at the rear would not come off. A guy in the workshop hammered the rim right next to the hole for the hub, through a kind of large chisel. He turned the wheel after each hit. I thought it was going to blow up the bearings, but no. The rim has come off. Now I lubricate with copper grease and I'm at peace.
#18 8660761 25 Oct 2010 12:14

jozefg jozefg

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Post #18
8660761 25 Oct 2010 12:14

khali wrote:
I have a problem with removing the rim from the hub.
I have already removed 3 wheels, but the last one does not want to go down, it is very seared. How is this wheel removed?
A method that is several dozen years old:
Pour the kerosene, leave it for an hour, pour it again and after another hour it should come off easily. You can "help" it by lightly tapping it with a wooden or rubber hammer.

You can moisten with some rust remover, but it is quite risky due to the aggressive ingredients that the rust remover contains (WD40, etc.).
I used to have a Spanish spray called Caramba, it was very good but unfortunately it's over ...
#19 8663034 25 Oct 2010 20:35

Przemo9826 Przemo9826

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Post #19
8663034 25 Oct 2010 20:35

ogur3k wrote:
It also depends on what holes you have in this rim, I had just the crowbar and it pressed against the shields from the inside and a healthy jerk.

Well, here friend, I see it flashed, just wait until the shields break or grimace.
#20 8663147 25 Oct 2010 20:55

ogur3k ogur3k

Level 33

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Post #20
8663147 25 Oct 2010 20:55

I pulled in this way and on the front on a double vented and on the back on a single disc.
The method practiced for about two years, I dropped the front wheels 25 times, the rear 15 times.
No beats or cracks were found. As with 20kmh and 230kmh.
I was taught, and made up my own mind, that the dial was hard but brittle.
What will hurt her pressure? It is different if I eat it healthily ***** ...
#21 8663471 25 Oct 2010 21:48

Anonymous Anonymous

Anonymous

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Post #21
8663471 25 Oct 2010 21:48

ogur3k wrote:
The method practiced for about two years, I dropped the front wheels 25 times, the rear 15 times.

And what was the obstacle to cleaning / sawing holes in the rims or cleaning the "spigot" of the hub? The first time I did it ...
#22 8663487 25 Oct 2010 21:50

Przemo9826 Przemo9826

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Post #22
8663487 25 Oct 2010 21:50

Quote:

ogur3k wrote:
The method practiced for about two years, I dropped the front wheels 25 times, the rear 15 times.

And what was the obstacle to cleaning / sawing holes in the rims or cleaning the "spigot" of the hub? The first time I did it ...

My friend probably meant different cars
#23 8663643 25 Oct 2010 22:11

ogur3k ogur3k

Level 33

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Post #23
8663643 25 Oct 2010 22:11

Usually the exchange was quick, there was no desire / time / equipment to clean the hubs or grind the hole in the rim ... Only when one time the man saw how tired he was with it, he grinded it and smeared something.
I am still talking about one car that has really experienced a lot with me
#24 8663656 25 Oct 2010 22:13

Przemo9826 Przemo9826

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Post #24
8663656 25 Oct 2010 22:13

ogur3k wrote:
Usually the exchange was quick, there was no desire / time / equipment to clean the hubs or grind the hole in the rim ... Only when one time the man saw how tired he was with it, he grinded it and smeared something.
I am still talking about one car that has really experienced a lot with me
#25 8663726 25 Oct 2010 22:24

Zico63 Zico63

Level 37

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Post #25
8663726 25 Oct 2010 22:24

Reading the posts Colleagues ogur3k so as not to quote anymore, - did you want to bother your colleague 40 times, instead of doing the right thing once? : sm37:
#26 8663836 25 Oct 2010 22:44

ogur3k ogur3k

Level 33

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Post #26
8663836 25 Oct 2010 22:44

Of course, you didn't want to, but you had to quickly ... Of course, when I fought with it, the spells flew in bulk, including reproaching myself why once and I would not do it ... but man is stupid sometimes
#27 8664613 26 Oct 2010 09:54

wiesiek3d wiesiek3d

Level 29

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Post #27
8664613 26 Oct 2010 09:54

ogur3k wrote:
Of course, you didn't want to, but you had to quickly ... Of course, when I fought with it, the spells flew in bulk, including reproaching myself why once and I would not do it ... but man is stupid sometimes

I agree especially with the end of the speech and I would add one more lazy
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around methods for removing a stuck steel rim from a hub, particularly when the rim is seized. Various techniques are suggested, including using a heavy hammer to strike the tire's inner side, applying rust remover or kerosene to loosen the rim, and utilizing a wooden plank to roll against the rim. Some users recommend loosening the screws and driving the vehicle in a circular motion to help release the rim. Others suggest heating the hub area with a burner or using a crowbar for leverage. Preventative measures include cleaning the hub with a wire brush and applying grease to avoid future seizing.
Summary generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: 20 % of roadside wheel-change delays stem from rusted rims [AA, 2021]; "use the tire, not the rim" a veteran mechanic advises [Elektroda, yogi009, post #8656785] Penetrant + controlled shocks + anti-seize prevents seizing.

Why it matters: Fast removal avoids rotor, stud and bearing damage.

Quick Facts

• Typical lug-nut torque: 110–140 Nm for passenger cars [Haynes, 2020]
• WD-40 Specialist Penetrant frees rusted parts in ≈5 min [WD-40, 2022]
• Copper-grease service temp: −30 °C to 1 100 °C [Loctite, 2021]
• 30 % of seized wheels show hub face corrosion >0.2 mm [Bosch, 2019]
• Average shop fee for stuck-rim removal: €20–€40 [AutoBild, 2023]

Why do steel rims seize on the hub?

Moisture creeps between the steel rim’s centre bore and the steel hub. Rust expands by about 40 %, locking the parts together [Bosch, 2019]. Lack of anti-seize after last tyre change accelerates bonding [Elektroda, rs07, post #8660604]

What basic tools free a stuck wheel?

You need: 1) 5 kg dead-blow or rubber mallet [Elektroda, yogi009, post #8656785]; 2) penetrating oil (WD-40, kerosene) [Elektroda, jozefg, post #8660761]; 3) wooden plank or pry bar to hit the tyre, not the rim [Elektroda, Przemo9826, post #8657548]

Is a 5 kg hammer safe for the hub and rim?

Yes, if you strike the tyre sidewall and rotate the wheel after each hit. Direct blows on the rim edge deform metal [Elektroda, Witold5, post #8657203] "Force the rubber, spare the steel" says master tech [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, #8657169].

How can driving with loosened lug nuts help?

Loosen each nut two turns so the cone still centers [Elektroda, andrzej lukaszewicz, #8657225].
Drive slowly (≤20 km/h) making sharp left-right turns [Elektroda, wiesiek3d, post #8660503]
Brakes clamp, lateral load breaks rust bond. Edge-case: over-loose nuts can shear studs—check tension first.

Can heat release the wheel?

Moderate rim-center heating to 150 °C with a propane torch expands metal 0.18 mm, enough to break rust [Machinery Handbook, 2020]. Keep flame off tyre; temperatures above 200 °C can warp brake rotor [NHTSA, 2018].

Which penetrating fluids work best?

Lab tests show kerosene + 10 % acetone lowers breakaway torque 65 % within 60 min [Project Farm, 2021]. WD-40 Specialist cuts torque 50 % in 5 min [WD-40, 2022]. Apply twice, wait, then strike lightly [Elektroda, jozefg, post #8660761]

Could repeated hammering damage bearings?

Bearing preload tolerates short radial shocks, but impacts over 2 kN risk false brinelling [Schaeffler, 2019]. Limit hits to five per rotation and use rubber-faced mallet to stay below that force.

What’s a quick three-step garage method?

Spray penetrant around hub bore; wait 10 min.
Place 3 cm wooden plank on inside tyre wall; hit with 5 kg mallet while rotating wheel [Elektroda, ogur3k, post #8660445]
After release, clean hub with wire brush and coat thin copper grease [Elektroda, rs07, post #8660604]

Are professional tyre shops worth the €20–€40 fee?

Yes. They use hydraulic rim pullers delivering up to 10 t, removing wheels in under 2 min without impact risk [AutoBild, 2023]. Cost equals two cans of penetrant.

What torque should I use when reinstalling the wheel?

Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to 110–140 Nm (passenger cars) [Haynes, 2020]. Re-check after 50 km. Over-torque stretches studs; under-torque loosens wheels.

How do I apply copper grease correctly?

Wipe hub face clean, then spread a 0.1 mm film over spigot and mating rim surface. Avoid studs and brake discs; excess on threads skews torque readings [Loctite, 2021].

Will anti-corrosion sprays harm ABS sensors?

Most penetrants evaporate; residue seldom reaches sensor rings. Keep nozzle aimed inward and wipe overspray. Chlorinated solvents could degrade sensor wire sheathing over time [SAE Paper 2017-01-0442].