Restoring and Protecting Rusted Hub on Superb II 1.9TDi 77kw: ATE Discs, Pads and Calipers

Hello. I will be replacing ATE discs and pads, the calipers have already been regenerated. It will be the turn of the hub, which will probably be very rusted. What do you propose to restore its flash at least on the frontal part that is in contact with the shield.

I will definitely want to clean it thoroughly with a wire brush on a drill.
Should I use a rust remover?
The main thing! To preserve something at the end? Any paint? Maybe a spray of silver spray, but will the temperature not turn into something bad under the influence of temperature? It cannot be anything in the form of copper grease because I have aluminum rims and I do not want to get them because of the grease dripping on them which is hard to remove later.

Don't splash anything. Clean with a wire cloth, there are even large ones dedicated to cleaning the hubs. If there is no, then the ordinary one can also do it. To make it "professional", after assembly it is still necessary to measure the beating of the dial with a dial gauge.

Usually such rust scabs will remain on the sand after brush cleaning. Scraper and sparkle. Apply ceramic spray grease.

So, after cleaning, ceramic grease for the hub and guides?

Exactly. Not too rich and the rim will remain clean.

Nothing on the hub itself, just clean it. If you must, use oil. Even manufacturers of brake discs will not accept complaints if they are clogged with grease on the contact surface with the hub.

The hub is to be cleaned and dry before mounting the discs, for any other heresy, I will reward you with a warning.

domex32 wrote:

The hub is to be cleaned and dry before mounting the discs, for any other heresy, I will reward you with a warning.

A very specific statement, I would be more aware if you wrote me more about why you are against lubrication. In that case, I will ask, is there anything that can be done so that the rusting hub does not "weld" to the disc over time? Following that thought, I just asked if any measures should be taken.

Being in the automotive store, the seller assured me not to use copper grease, ceramic paste, and offered something like this:

Quote:

Content 400 ml
Color Transparent
Min./max. skin formation time 90-120 min
Skin formation time - conditions At 20 ° C
Type 360 ° valve
Min. Temperature resistance -25 ° C
Temperature resistance 160 ° C
30 cm spraying distance
Application temperature min. 15 ° C
Application temperature max. -25 ° C
Density 0.665 g / cm3
Density conditions 20 ° C

Dj_Majster wrote:

It will be the turn of the hub, which will probably be very rusted

And where would the scab rust appear on the hub?

After all, it sticks to the shield.
If, however, it is covered with RAY, remove it with paper.

The best "Negro hair" for cleaning, i.e. abrasive non-woven disc.

Noah I want to kick too much here, but have you ever replaced shields? Often the hub has such a muck that it is impossible to clean it with a hard brush on an angle grinder. Then, as someone wrote above, the best is a scraper and another correction with a square. After replacement, rust forms over time, but the disc wears off regularly and you do not feel the beating. For this reason, lubricating the contact surface does not make sense to me, unless it makes someone feel better.

Dj_Majster wrote:

In that case, I will ask, is there anything that can be done so that the rusting hub does not "weld" to the disc over time?

It is supposed to "weld", when changing the wheels, for example, nothing will fall between the discs and the hubs is one or two times, the behavior of this thing in contact with water and salt is not predictable, three heat dissipation from the shield (negligible but always) four, whatever the thickness of a human a hair between the disc and the hub gives 20 hundredths of the disc runout, where 6 hundred is allowed.

Dj_Majster wrote:

So, after cleaning, ceramic grease for the hub and guides?

In your car there are guides with a "lip" that must not be lubricated, the lips ensure the correct operation of the brake apparatus, the same as the piston seal retracts the piston after the braking phase is over, and the "lips" on the guides cause the apparatus to move back, which ensures even brake pad wear, otherwise, only the outer blocks will wear.

Hub - with "Negro hair", a scraper, brush, etc. clean so that you could eat from it. Nothing is needed to lubricate the contact between the hub and the disc (but grease or oil "without volume" is allowed), because, according to the constructors, an equal disc and hub will not lead to corrosion which will affect the "runout". Under no circumstances should you use lubricants on the lip guides (although they do come in sets).

I always use wurtha piston grease when assembling the caliper. I put it on all the rubber parts and a little bit on the plunger, then it screws in like butter . But I do not lubricate the guides or the yoke with anything, I only clean it with a flash.

No grease, but when I see that the hub is already heavily corroded and there is no beat yet, I wipe it with an oily cloth only for anti-corrosion purposes.

Tomorrow I get to work. I will try to upload as many photos as possible and describe how I did it. Of course, I will suggest some hints for which I am very grateful.

Job done. Everything I wanted to do, come on not without some minor obstacles. Taking the opportunity, in addition to the hub, I will describe the rest of the work.

REPLACEMENT OF ATE BRAKE DISCS AND PADS (step by step)

For my own convenience and safety, I placed the car on stands based on rocker arms. I removed the wheels on both sides and started working.

1. I have read carefully the instructions posted by ATE, which were included in the box with the blocks and discs.



2. Then I prepared the parts and tools I needed for the job. Some of them in the photo.



- discs + disc mounting bolts
- blocks
- a key for retracting the brake pistons (at the end it facilitates the assembly of terminals with new, thick blocks)
- dial gauge + magnetic stand y (to check the proper operation of hubs and then new discs on these hubs)
- ring spanner 21 (unscrewing the yoke)
- hammer (punching "welded" to the hubs of old discs)
- flat-blade screwdriver (to remove the clamp clamp)
- Phillips screwdriver (for removing old disc mounting screws)
- 2x hexagonal bit (to remove the caliper mounting bolts and the second to install new bolts for new discs)
- WD40 (helped to wring out the yoke mounting bolts)
- drill + grinding tips (cleaning the hub and yokes)
- file (grinding the guides on the yokes)

3. Removing the brake calipers. So that the clamp would not interfere, I hung it on a hook for the shock absorber coupling.

4. The shields were in poor condition. The edges were very cracked, ragged, especially in the outer part. In order to take them off, I first tired of the fixing screw, which was seized. After unscrewing, I had to put a hammer on the shield a few times because it was very "welded" to the hub. On both sides the same. Left and right in the photo.



5. After removing the discs, I saw the hubs. See for yourself how they looked before and after cleaning.

Left side:


Right side:


- after all, I checked with the sensor if the hub was working evenly: left and right sides deviated by 1, almost 2 (very good result).

6. After cleaning the hubs, I put on new discs. Then, using a special wrench, I retracted the brake pistons for easier caliper installation. I put on new blocks and put everything together as it was.

No lubrication of any component! Okay, only the screws and their places where they go I messed up with WD40

The whole process took me about 4.5 hours with the help of my dad and our Sisi, who did not leave us every step.



It may seem like a long time, but ...
- it was very hard to unscrew the bolts securing the yokes and discs
- hub cleaning took a long time
- it was also time-consuming to clean the yokes, especially their guides

Thank you very much for hints on this topic!

The cat obviously has some objections to all this work. I do not know what you sprayed WD40 but remember that after this crap it will corrode even more.

Perhaps, but she was very silent
I did not identify myself. I broke the wheel bolts, and earlier, before installing the discs, the holes where these bolts go. Of course, in moderation.