Connecting Steel Water Pipes to Plastic Ones: Guidelines, Connectors, and DIY vs Hiring Plumber

Question

I apologize in advance if such a topic was already there. I am a layman in this field. He wants to connect the existing water pipes in the house with the new plastic ones (new point in the basement). I have a welding machine for plastic pipes at my disposal. How should I do it? Any advice, links...

HM Prince · Answer

What kind of pipe is it? all manufacturers offer the necessary fittings. There should be no problem with making such a modification, although I personally suggest to my colleague make this installation in copper.

msati123 · Answer

I mean a steel pipe and its connection to the plastic one. And when it comes to connecting with copper, what tools to connect them will I need

herrRendezV · Answer

Gas burner + bottle for it + gas in the bottle ... But seriously, in addition to the above-mentioned wire brush (and even a few for different pipe diameters), I recommend that you invest in three brushes, each with a different diameter than one conical, because then there is better pressure to the surface being cleaned. Then a tin of 3 mm. Soldering paste. A cloth for cleaning pipes at the place of soldering (several pieces) and that's it. The soldering tutorial would also like a colleague? No problem. (there is no great philosophy in it)

mihhau997 · Answer

you can install the same in plastic. you need to get the appropriate fittings with internal and external threads, elbows, tees and, of course, pipes with the appropriate diameters

piotrkam1982 · Answer

Hello. I will cut in when it comes to PP pipes, i.e. weldable / plastic, you have to reckon with visible noodles on the walls ... unless the handle every 0.5 m ...

mirrzo · Answer

However, a pipe other than a plastic pipe must go to the stove and from the stove to a length of 1 meter.

HM Prince · Answer

Buddy, do this processing in copper. You have a wide selection of pipe shapes, threads and sections. There will be no problem with the initial temperature reduction at the heater. It is best to attach them to the wall aesthetically. Remember about insulation on the pipes. This installation is very durable. I advise against plastic.

William Bonawentura · Answer

And I strongly advise against installing drinking water in copper. One is unhealthy, two that high flows destroy connections and fittings. This is not CO, where the water is 0.3 [m / s] and low in oxygen. Currently, the best material for this installation is PP-R.

cunioo · Answer

Buddy, you can do it yourself, you shouldn't have a problem with it, the principle of welding and joining PP-R you will find if you want, you can also do this installation in PEX-AL PEX there is a wide range of connectors, but as MIRRZO wrote about 1 meter, another pipe must go than plastic.In addition, an adjustable wrench, some tow frog, paste and preferably flare nuts at the stove, ..... and valves.

herrRendezV · Answer

I have had such an installation (i.e. water from the city, but it goes to the taps, paddling pool, etc.) for 3 years now and I am not complaining. No fittings, nothing got damaged.

rafalw11 · Answer

When it comes to PP-R 3 pipes, they are welded using appropriate polyfusion welding machines. The connection of this system is stronger than the pipe itself, of course, in terms of correct execution. Easy installation, no scale deposits as they have a smooth surface. pipes have a large linear expansion and therefore it is necessary to make as many natural compensations as possible, i.e. as many changes in the route of the pipes as possible, give the pipe free movement because the stresses may destroy the pipe maker. the pipes will work and the diameter of the pipes. In the case of high pipe temperature, stabi pipes are used, i.e. with an aluminum insert in order to reduce the length of the pipe due to the expansion of PP-R. It is more labor-intensive to prepare furrows, etc., because the pipes are thicker in diameter than copper. the system has to be performed by two people. However, someone mentioned the copper installation that it is most suitable for central heating water than domestic water and I agree. My personal observation is this and please do not segregate with it. this way it rinses the copper and there is less oxygen in the water, which reduces the corrosiveness of e.g. soldered joints and copper itself. The disadvantage is poor performance of the solder itself, i.e. too much tin (corrosion occurs to a greater extent when the tin is on a large surface of the pipes) and overheating of the solder itself and no wiping the remnants of the paste from the surface of pipes and fittings. As for the domestic water installation, it should be rinsed for a long time, because the excess of everything in this case is copper in water, and may not be healthy for people. The advantage of this system is that it is possible to perform more maneuvers than with PP-R, smaller furrows. Remember to add copper at the end of the steel installation. This is followed by faster corrosion of the steel parts. In order for the installation to function properly, it must be made in accordance with the designer's documentation and made in accordance with the recommendations of the material manufacturer. Of course, there are situations where the contractor will correct the designer's error at the stage of installation ... Whether to use copper or plastic is up to you after reading the catalogs and information on the use of a given system. Added after 15 [minutes]: That's true, because a sudden high temperature exit from the stove or electric hot water heater can be harmful to the plastic pipe and the connection. In my opinion, copper is the best because it has a high heat transfer, where then the temperature does not have such a negative effect on the plastics. A solid fuel boiler room made of PP pipes is, in my opinion, unacceptable due to the lack of high temperature control and destruction of the installation. Added after 9 [minutes]: Of course, no one says that after 3 or 4 years something will spoil and destroy something. The durability of the installation depends primarily on the correct execution of the installation, as well as the pressure and temperature at which it will work, and time has a large impact on what is happening in the world ... Added after 13 [minutes]: I personally use PP-R materials from a Polish manufacturer (no name so as not to advertise). Do as it was suggested to leave the stove with about 1 m of another pipe, steel or copper. Remember that when welding, the temperature of the welding machine and the heating time of the welded elements are important. and cooling time as well as the correct positioning of the pipes. In order to complain about possible failures due to material defects, only the same manufacturer's material and guidelines for the method of installation of his system, receipt or invoice, etc., should be used.

msati123 · Answer

Thank you very much for the answers. I will certainly need a lot. And yet I will decide on whole copper pipes, and the steel and copper connection with a brass coupler. Just one more question. What kind of brushes you mentioned? They are some special or ordinary wire, of various widths

mirrzo · Answer

Exactly as you wrote: special, wire and each for a different diameter of pipes.

msati123 · Answer

Approx. Now the question is whether there is no problem with soldering to a brass coupler made of a steel pipe on copper? Is it the same as for a copper-copper pipe ?? Please correct any spelling mistakes. We begin the sentence with a CAPITAL letter. mod - mirrzo

jannaszek · Answer

The author asked the question of how to connect a metal pipe with a plastic one and he was given dozens of advice, instead of one that there are transitions, metal and plastic. Glued to the pipe, twisted to the metal pipe. Unless I haven't read it thoroughly.

rafalw11 · Answer

This is a fact, so I will write how correctly this connection looks like. If the steel pipe is without ending with a fitting, e.g. a muff or an elbow, a copper transition is used, an internal thread with a given diameter of a copper pipe, e.g. fi 15 mm, and if there is a fitting, then an external transition. plastic, only there are other diameters of plastic pipes, e.g. 16 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm and in copper, diameter: 15 mm, 18 mm, 22 mm, 28 mm. for tightness) and the transition of plastic to steel to Teflon (due to the loss of the manufacturer's warranty for PP pipes with tow and breakage of the fitting with a large amount of tow), of course, if you prefer. For cleaning copper, special pipe cleaners are used, something similar to steel wool, but without metals and wire brushes of appropriate diameters, e.g. 15, 18, 22, etc. You will choose the right materials for soldered joints Added after 10 [minutes]: The connection is made as twisted on Teflon or hemp with paste.

msati123 · Answer

As I continue this topic: Will there be a problem if I connect a burner without a reducer to the prop-shoe cylinder? Won't I burn the copper pipe because of the high pressure?

herrRendezV · Answer

Exactly the same. Soft solder and then on hemp with steel pipe paste. I do not recommend Teflon. He's good for plastic pipes.

Anonymous · Answer

Both for copper and for plastic, GW and GZ fittings are used (internal and external thread). Such fittings exist in various variants - they are female GW and GZ couplings and, for example, GW and GZ elbows These fittings are used for threaded connections and it is not just a connection with a pipe, e.g. steel. Nothing prevents you from ending a piece of plastic pipe with a GZ coupler and winding it on such an end, for example with a ball valve. I wrote eg. because the valves also exist in a welded version, both for copper and for plastic. As for the reducer, of course, nothing will happen if it is not. Reducers are used for larger cylinders, e.g. 11 kg. Only that, in turn, there is a larger diameter of the connection and rather, without a reducer, it is impossible to attach the end of the hose to the burner there. And don't worry about the temperature - the copper torch will not reach the temperature that will destroy the pipe. There are also different burners, for example for soft soldering for pipe connections on water and for hard soldering or brazing for gas installations. The torch should be appropriate for the brazed diameter, although with a little practice you can handle any torch. (With soft solder) For sealing threads, it is best to use the things that the previous speaker mentioned. I will just add that there is also a Teflon cord and it is heaven better than the tape, unfortunately it is not cheap. It costs about PLN 40. e.g. from LOCTITE. The fact that it is enough for many threads, well ... but you have to buy it first.

rafalw11 · Answer

In this case, there are a lot of questions about your problem, but who asks it is not wrong. In my opinion, you should hire a plumber with experience. A self-made installation, especially for the first time in your case, does not guarantee tightness. Unfortunately, when everything will be under the floor and walls, it will be difficult to find a leak and this entails huge costs of re-renovation. But overall good luck.

herrRendezV · Answer

Because I know. I learned to soft solder from the first of February. No philosophy. You just have to stand on your head to make the connection leaky. And even if you do, you can add water to the installation (or even a voice of reason) before plastering or laying the floor.

msati123 · Answer

I am partly an electronics engineer and I can solder, I have no concerns about it, and there should be no problem with the tightness of the problem, and the pipes will be on plaster for now

herrRendezV · Answer

Such soldering has little in common. If a colleague does not know how to do it step by step, I can explain.

rafalw11 · Answer

Dear Mr. herrRendezV. I do not doubt your soldering skills. I directed my thought to msati123 and, as he has arranged, that he is an electronics and he is familiar with soldering, but soldering cables or electronic components is a bit different than soldering copper.

herrRendezV · Answer

I wrote the same over your post ...

stan2300 · Answer

Hello gentlemen, I would propose a system of brass fittings and a plary pipe, twisted with keys in Germany, it was called the Marlej system, but I have met a similar system also here, the pipes are like for underfloor heating plastic aluminum plastic, the seals are in the mouth, and I would never connect copper with galvanized steel ribs because having some knowledge with chemistry, copper dissolves the zinc, and the water in the pipes acts as an electrolyte because it is not chemically inert Please correct any spelling mistakes mod - mirrzo

msati123 · Answer

Gentlemen, do not worry, I can handle the soldering

rafalw11 · Answer

Yes, that's why copper can be given at the end of the installation, i.e. behind steel pipes.

mirrzo · Answer

There should be no soldered joints under the floor or in plaster.

Connecting Steel Water Pipes to Plastic Ones: Guidelines, Connectors, and DIY vs Hiring Plumber

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